Gadgetory


All Cool Mind-blowing Gadgets You Love in One Place

Building a TINY PC Step-by-step!

2018-12-21
the inner max lick fusion 240 millimeter all-in-one liquid cooler features a one-of-a-kind RGB sink water block with built-in flow indicator static pressure optimized RGB fans and a high efficiency ceramic bearing pump for exceptional durability and noiseless operation click on the link below to learn more alright y'all today we're doing a quick and dirty build I'm actually gonna be assembling this small form-factor system inside of the silverstone sg0 5 and that's because we need one we actually need a PC for tomorrow we're gonna be shooting an episode of the winter nitwit tomorrow and should the contestant on that little game show series that we do win they'll need a gaming PC to take home we're actually buddies assembling a mid-range system inside of this case so nothing too fancy but definitely able to handle some 1080p gaming at 60fps or higher and it should be a lot of fun so I'm gonna walk you through again step by step what I'm doing here it's not gonna be a tutorial or a guide or anything but more or less just a way for you guys to see how exactly I build one of these things now I'm actually gonna call out all the parts that I'm using one by one as they get installed so the first component will be B 450 I Boris Pro Wi-Fi this is a mini ITX board the fully packed with features and it is on the B 450 chipset you can see I've already kind of gotten into it looks like a raccoon was here the first thing I do I start with CPU installation this is an AM for bucketed motherboard so you know we are probably using horizon processors so we've got a risin 5 1600 X yes I know it's not 2nd gen rising but it's still a really good quad-core 8 thread CPU and it's got the X so it runs at slightly higher clock speeds out of the box then it's 1600 brethren but the 16 I'm so prepared for this video where the hell is it wait what I just saw it it was just here ok I really don't know where - here it is I'm dumb it was like literally right in front of me 1600 X I take it out of the clamshell very carefully making sure not to touch pins I've learned if you touch the IHS the internal heat spreader it's not gonna kill a CPU or anything if your hands are really oily however I would avoid touching it you just don't want to touch it in general there's no reason to anyway but if you just you know if there's a tap here and there it's not the end of the world but you definitely don't want to touch the gold contacts do not touch those those those are sensitive and that can mess something up if one of those goes bad so to install a name for CPU lift a little on the socket and you have to match up the gold arrow on the cpu with the tiny little arrow that's on the socket yeah you really have to look for its in in one of the corners and it's usually gonna make the CPU turn sideways so Rison is actually going perpendicular to the width of the board and then you lower the arm just like that and it's it's stuck in there and CPU installation is done it's definitely one of the easiest parts to install in a PC next up I tend to go for the memory sometimes that varies depending on the CPU cooler that I'm installing but in this case memory should do just fine and for that we have a 16 gigabyte kit so 2 by 8 gig sticks of predator RGB this is from HyperX ddr4 and this is at 29:33 speed might have to do some overclocking here if we really want to make most out of our rise in CPU since it is memory speed dependent it loves ram frequency oh I should be telling you how to do this so for the memory you basically have these latches sometimes you have latches on both sides of the DIMM slot and so you just want to release them like so this one only has them on one side and then next you want to match up the notch in the memory stick see how there's a little notch there where there's no gold contacts you want to match that up with the notch that's in the dim slot these are not perfectly centered so they are keyed they only go in a certain way so that looks correct firmly push the stick down with even pressure till it clicks and you should see any latches that were once unlocked fully back up into place after you hear that snap and you should also double check that one side of the stick or the other isn't sticking out and we'll do the second one here oh yeah next I'm gonna go for the CPU cooler which is the included Wraith spire I always get confused stealth is the littler one this game included with our risin 5 1600 X so it is an adequate cooler for the chip you can even overclock a little bit with it let me get some thermal paste thermal paste is usually important for this kind of thing so for a mainstream rise in CPU I tend to go with the grain of rice method or pee method if you will just a pea-sized drop right in the middle or sometimes I like to call it a turd so for the Wraith cooler as you can see here on the fan shroud we've got a little pop out AMD logo here I usually like to mount that to the left though towards the rear i/o of your motherboard away from your memory sticks just in the event that you know if you have to swap out your memory modules down the line for ones that have taller heat spreaders that you don't into any clearance issues with this guy because that can potentially caused interference so to mount this guy you basically just kind of slowly line it up line up those screws with poles you don't ever want to press down on the CPU cooler when it's right over the CPU and then I start screwing down I usually go diagonal so I'll do the top left screw first and then I'll do the bottom right and you don't screw those all the way down either you just do a couple turns just to get them threaded and then you start doing the other corners just a few just just a few turns per screw and then you repeat that order until all the screws are fully seated by applying this kind of even mounting pressure you ensure that you don't accidentally crack the died or your IHS CPU in any way so I'm getting a phone call hold on my wife hold on hello I don't know it's kind of fuzzy something about call 9-1-1 I don't know anyway now you want to make sure the fan on your CPU cooler actually spins up when you finally boot the system so you got to plug that fan in and you want to find the four pin pwm fan header on your motherboard that's marked with CPU fan usually CPU underscore fan or something like that which looks to be this gray port right here so we're just gonna pop that guy in you can always tuck your cable in as well just kind of get it out of the way looks a little nicer voila CPU CPU cooler and memory have been installed now we can now this sexy little package into the case so let's bring over our s g05 some of you old timers probably recognize this as my original HTPC case this was this served me very well I'm actually kind of sad to see it go it's a little sentimental but I am happy that it's gonna find a new home where it'll definitely be used a lot more than I use it now which is never and we do need to get back into our motherboard box one more time for the i/o shield IO shields that isn't here I think I just realized why I never used this board in the first place that's that's unfortunate I have to use a different motherboard alright here we go sorry gigabyte I tried all right looks like we're right where we left off oh wait hold on CPU fan alright now we're ready for the case first you put your motherboard and stuff aside and bust out your i/o shield basically a little protective plate that goes between your i/o your inputs and outputs on the back of your motherboard and your case while sealing the back of your case so that the airflow is not compromised so you want to make sure that it's lined the right way and you got to sort of be firm with this to just keep pushing it from the inside of the case you might hear a snap or two it should also be fairly obvious that if your i/o shield has a painted side that that painted side goes on the outside of the case and the sort of foamy cushiony part goes on the inside you should also turn around the chassis and take a look at the i/o shield from this side just to make sure that it is in fact installed all the way and it wasn't to see that's why you do that but that said we can pop our motherboard in the way I like to do this is by sort of dipping it in rear i/o first so dip it in this way all right and as we go in you want to make sure that the i/o lines up at the i/o shield on the back that's the best way to do it and I'm getting a phone call again damn it honey hi dear she got locked out of the building I will be right back okay Wi-Fi sauce is in the building everyone and she's actually now manning one of the cameras so I got got a cameraman now wives are so useful and I have to go backwards just for a minute here because I forgot to mention this I didn't have to do it in this case but in some cases you will have to install some or all of the motherboard standoffs these are already pre-installed so I don't have to do anything but these basically just elevate the motherboard ever so slightly off the floor of the chassis and they also help the board a line with your i/o shield so once that's all good you get your motherboard screws which should come included with your case and you just screw in the motherboard I like to leave the screws a little bit loose till the very end that way in case you need to shift the board around slightly to get one of the screws in you can do that it doesn't really matter what order you screw these in and you don't want to over tighten them but you do want them to be snug now I usually like to connect my front panel connectors there are these little wires coming off of the front panel of course these lead to things like your front panel USB your mic and headphone jack your power button reset button and so forth so we want to get these all wired up so that the front of our case is actually functional I'm going to start with USB 3.0 it's this large 20 pin connector here so this is a keyed plug so you want to make sure that it's going the right way you can see I've already sort of cable managed some of this from the previous build inside this case then we're gonna connect these pesky little guys you'll have to find the pins for these on your motherboard and also consult your motherboard manual to find out exactly how they should plug in it's pretty Universal for all boards though so I've actually kind of memorized the layout here so I'm just gonna go for it these are two pin connectors that have a positive and a ground and you can usually tell which sides the positive because there will be a little black arrow on that connector and then indicates positive at the other side being ground obviously so all the front panel connectors are now wired up we just have a single fan cable coming off of our 120 millimeter front-facing fan and our fan cables actually a zip tied to the front panel cables so it's actually not able to reach the nearest fan header on the motherboard so I need to snip off those tweeters very careful not to cut the wires your free fan cable gives me just enough slack okay moving on now another step that I could have easily done before mounting the motherboard inside the case but still isn't a huge deal right now is installing the m2 SSD we actually have Samsung 970 Evo nvme m2 drive 250 gig that'll be our boot drive and that will mount straight to the motherboard that's the nice thing about these MDOT two drives is that you don't need any cables just mounts in to a and two slots assuming that your motherboard has one and the heatsink or cover to that m2 slot is usually held in place by a screw or two so here you can see our m2 slot and there's a little post with a little tiny screw on it you want to unscrew that screw because that's gonna be the mounting screw for our I'm about to drive keep that close don't lose it it's very tiny then you want to take your I'm about to drive these m2 drives are keyed very much like our memory modules that we just installed so there's a notch right there and you have to match that up with the notch in your m2 slot gently but firmly and sure it's firmly in there and then as that is what she said well done wifey sauce I'm proud of you and then you push down the drive until it hits the post and then you screw in that little screw there it is now before remounting your m2 heatsink you actually have to check if there's a thermal pad underneath and if there is there may very well be a piece of protective plastic so you're gonna want to remove the plastic before you reinstall this thing so yeah like I said it's probably a little easier if you install that before you install your motherboard into the case but you know it's really not that bad either way next up we have the power supply this is a 450 watt Silverstone SFX unit which means it is a smaller form factor than your typical ATX power supply perfect for a case like this because it only supports sfx units you want to find where your power supply mounts in your case in this instance we've got a cutout usually at the back of your case and before you mount it you want to see which way the fan is facing all power supplies most power supplies will have a built-in fan if your case has a dust filter for your power supplied then you want to face your fan towards the dust filter if it doesn't maybe it's just some ventilation holes and the other side is peer steel then you want to give you your fan the ventilation that it needs in order to cool components inside this case has a lovely cover that has a ton of ventilation at the top so I think it makes the most sense to have the fan pointed up you could face it downward but then I feel like it would be feeling a little bit of air from your CPU cooler and you don't want these two fans to compete for airflow so I'm gonna put it up and once again you should look to your case in most instances for your power supply screws there will most likely be four of them unlike most of the other screws that you'll be screwing in a build like this they should be nice and firm that is what she said again whyphy sauce to kyle zero you may have also noticed that I already plugged in all my power supply cables that I knew I would need for the build into the unit itself before I started installing said unit that definitely helps especially in a smaller case keeps you from having to fish around inside the chassis get all that plugged in just like that the power supply was installed so let me quickly go over the the actual cables that we have here we have our eight pin eight pin EPS 12-volt connector for our power supply 24 pin supplemental ATX motherboard power this powers your motherboard you can see that it's actually 20+4 pin all these are keyed they all have a latch on one side and there will be a little notch on each of the connectors that you're plugging these into the latch should go on the same side as the knotch very straightforward but you want to make sure that you're plugging these in the right way we have a SATA power cable that actually has three SATA plugs coming off of it on a single cable so you can actually power multiple drives or SATA devices with a single cable this is actually the only plug here that does not have the sort of latch and notch mechanism instead it has sort of an l-shaped it's not symmetrical that will determine which way it plugs in and finally we have our PCI Express cables which power our graphics card and we will be installing a discrete GPU in here just a moment we got 2 6 plus 2 pin connectors here I'm gonna plug in the 8 pin first you'll hear a nice satisfying click you probably can't hear it from here but that'll indicate that the latch of the plug has engaged with the notch on the connector and then I'm gonna go for the 24 pin ATX you'll see that there's sort of a little lip that the 4 pin has that lip has to go underneath just like that to sort of lock in and engage with the rest of the connector before you start trying to plug it in there it is now at this point I also have to install a SATA cable now I know I already mentioned that power supply has plenty of SATA connectors coming off of it this is for power we also need a SATA cable for data if we're gonna plug in a mechanical hard drive which we are in just a moment so the SATA cables that come included with your motherboard should look something like this alright these are also keyed they have a little L shape on the connector so you want to find that l-shaped connector on your motherboard for a mini ITX port like this it shouldn't really matter which one you plug it into you just want to make sure that whatever port you're plugging into is natively controlled by your motherboards chipset it's usually more of an issue on larger form factor motherboards where you have so many SATA ports that they can't all be natively controlled by the chipset so they wire some of them up to an add-on controller and I can lead to slightly reduced performance in some cases so you want to check your motherboard manual for that so here it is again we have SATA power coming straight from our power supply and say the data coming from the motherboard now obviously we have a very fast nvme drive in here already but that's just for our boot drive relatively small for actual storage purposes at 250 gigs so I'll also be installing this very adorable WD black one terabyte two and a half inch drive now this mechanical drive will be going into this metal cage it's a drive cage which is part of the case you can fit that two and a half inch drive right in here and you'll also notice that I have a slim blu-ray player already installed it's not working though there's actually no power going to it there hasn't been in a long time because Windows 10 doesn't natively playback blu-rays and I'm too cheap I've always been too cheap to fork out the money for an overpriced blu-ray playing software so whoever wins this thing can decide what to do with that optical drive as for now it just serves an aesthetic purpose because without it installed now you just get nasty open SWAT on the front panel there so this Drive will install this way and for these two and a half inch drives there are two holes on either side there's really not much to installing these drives you just want to make sure that it's being installed the right way and that your SATA connectors are actually facing the way that you want them to be so that when you're ready to wire them up you have enough reach now that we have our botanical drive and our optical drive installed in the cage we can install the cage into the motherboard so you just got a slot it in like so making sure that the front of that optical drive is flush with the front panel and then you just screw it down or screws now let's get that SATA drive wired up shall we kind of hard to see for you guys it's kind of hard for me to see too wired up and last but certainly not least is the video card so we have an EVGA geforce gtx 1066 gigabyte card right here and you can see it's sort of one of the more compact designs it's a little mini now your discreet graphics card is gonna go inside of your full-size by sixteen PCIe slot if you have a mini ITX board like we do here you only have one of those it's very simple you usually have sort of a latch or locking mechanism here that either needs to be pushed down or slid over in some capacity to release or unlock the slot repair it for mounting but she said Heather to Kyle won and then you also want to make sure that if you have expansion slots already installed in your case which usually they are you remove those with a Phillips head screw usually or if they're thumb screws you might be able to twist them if they're not too tight from the factory so what those covers removed you kind of install this in a similar fashion again like we did with the memory and the m2 Drive even where you have this connector of gold contacts and there is a notch that has to line up with the notch on your PCIe slot that'll help you get things aligned so once you get it hovered over that slot you just push it down even pressure and the latch should now be back up your GPU is only half mounted though you still have to bolt down the back end here so get a couple of screws so the S g05 actually has this little plate here that goes over your card like so and you screw in from the outside like that one on the back the last thing we got to do here is plug in our GPU connect it to the power supply that power cable so the number and type of power plugs that your graphics card requires is going to vary based on the model this one in particular only has a single six pin connector on it you guys will forgive them not being able to see anything because I just can't show you what I'm doing and do it practically at the same time aha alright yes Edson oh very firm indeed damn it why he sauce three tile one that was a cheap one that was really hard that's what she said well here it is feast your eyes on that GPU fully installed power cable right there I don't know how well you guys can see it but there it is for that matter the entire build is now complete feast your eyes I mean the cable management could be a little tidier I didn't spend any time at all really doing it but considering the size of this of this case it's actually not terrible gotta love the form factor in size of this thing it's just so incredibly compact you can literally take it anywhere so whoever wins this thing hopefully they enjoy it and treat it with love and kindness that's gonna do it guys I told you it was quick and dirty if you enjoyed the video toss a like on it before you go and get subscribed for more tech stuff coming at you really soon also if you want to find parts to any of this stuff I'll drop them in the description have a good one guys I will see you all in the next video
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.