the inner max lick fusion 240 millimeter
all-in-one liquid cooler features a
one-of-a-kind RGB sink water block with
built-in flow indicator static pressure
optimized RGB fans and a high efficiency
ceramic bearing pump for exceptional
durability and noiseless operation click
on the link below to learn more
alright y'all today we're doing a quick
and dirty build I'm actually gonna be
assembling this small form-factor system
inside of the silverstone sg0 5 and
that's because we need one we actually
need a PC for tomorrow we're gonna be
shooting an episode of the winter nitwit
tomorrow and should the contestant on
that little game show series that we do
win they'll need a gaming PC to take
home we're actually buddies assembling a
mid-range system inside of this case so
nothing too fancy but definitely able to
handle some 1080p gaming at 60fps or
higher and it should be a lot of fun so
I'm gonna walk you through again step by
step what I'm doing here it's not gonna
be a tutorial or a guide or anything but
more or less just a way for you guys to
see how exactly I build one of these
things now I'm actually gonna call out
all the parts that I'm using one by one
as they get installed so the first
component will be B 450 I Boris Pro
Wi-Fi this is a mini ITX board the fully
packed with features and it is on the B
450 chipset you can see I've already
kind of gotten into it looks like a
raccoon was here the first thing I do I
start with CPU installation this is an
AM for bucketed motherboard so you know
we are probably using horizon processors
so we've got a risin 5 1600 X yes I know
it's not 2nd gen rising but it's still a
really good quad-core 8 thread CPU and
it's got the X so it runs at slightly
higher clock speeds out of the box then
it's 1600 brethren but the 16 I'm so
prepared for this video where the hell
is it wait what I just saw it it was
just here ok I really don't know where -
here it is I'm dumb it was like
literally right in front of me
1600 X I take it out of the clamshell
very carefully making sure not to touch
pins I've learned if you touch the IHS
the internal heat spreader it's not
gonna kill a CPU or anything if your
hands are really oily however I would
avoid touching it you just don't want to
touch it in general there's no reason to
anyway but if you just you know if
there's a tap here and there it's not
the end of the world but you definitely
don't want to touch the gold contacts do
not touch those those those are
sensitive and that can mess something up
if one of those goes bad so to install a
name for CPU lift a little
on the socket and you have to match up
the gold arrow on the cpu with the tiny
little arrow that's on the socket yeah
you really have to look for its in in
one of the corners and it's usually
gonna make the CPU turn sideways so
Rison is actually going perpendicular to
the width of the board and then you
lower the arm just like that and it's
it's stuck in there and CPU installation
is done it's definitely one of the
easiest parts to install in a PC next up
I tend to go for the memory sometimes
that varies depending on the CPU cooler
that I'm installing but in this case
memory should do just fine and for that
we have a 16 gigabyte kit so 2 by 8 gig
sticks of predator RGB this is from
HyperX ddr4 and this is at 29:33 speed
might have to do some overclocking here
if we really want to make most out of
our rise in CPU since it is memory speed
dependent it loves ram frequency oh I
should be telling you how to do this so
for the memory you basically have these
latches sometimes you have latches on
both sides of the DIMM slot and so you
just want to release them like so this
one only has them on one side and then
next you want to match up the notch in
the memory stick see how there's a
little notch there where there's no gold
contacts you want to match that up with
the notch that's in the dim slot these
are not perfectly centered so they are
keyed they only go in a certain way so
that looks correct firmly push the stick
down with even pressure till it clicks
and you should see any latches that were
once unlocked fully back up into place
after you hear that snap and you should
also double check that one side of the
stick or the other isn't sticking out
and we'll do the second one here oh yeah
next I'm gonna go for the CPU cooler
which is the included Wraith spire I
always get confused stealth is the
littler one this game included with our
risin 5 1600 X so it is an adequate
cooler for the chip you can even
overclock a little bit with it let me
get some thermal paste thermal paste is
usually important for this kind of thing
so for a mainstream rise in CPU I tend
to go with the grain of rice method or
pee method if you will just a pea-sized
drop right in the middle or sometimes I
like to call it a turd so for the Wraith
cooler as you can see here on the fan
shroud we've got a little pop out AMD
logo here I usually like to mount that
to the left though towards the rear i/o
of your motherboard away from your
memory sticks just in the event that you
know if you have to swap out your memory
modules down the line for ones that have
taller heat spreaders that you don't
into any clearance issues with this guy
because that can potentially caused
interference so to mount this guy you
basically just kind of slowly line it up
line up those screws with poles you
don't ever want to press down on the CPU
cooler when it's right over the CPU and
then I start screwing down
I usually go diagonal so I'll do the top
left screw first and then I'll do the
bottom right and you don't screw those
all the way down either you just do a
couple turns just to get them threaded
and then you start doing the other
corners just a few just just a few turns
per screw and then you repeat that order
until all the screws are fully seated by
applying this kind of even mounting
pressure you ensure that you don't
accidentally crack the died or your IHS
CPU in any way so I'm getting a phone
call hold on my wife hold on hello I
don't know it's kind of fuzzy
something about call 9-1-1 I don't know
anyway now you want to make sure the fan
on your CPU cooler actually spins up
when you finally boot the system so you
got to plug that fan in and you want to
find the four pin pwm fan header on your
motherboard that's marked with CPU fan
usually CPU underscore fan or something
like that which looks to be this gray
port right here so we're just gonna pop
that guy in you can always tuck your
cable in as well just kind of get it out
of the way looks a little nicer
voila CPU CPU cooler and memory have
been installed now we can now this sexy
little package into the case so let's
bring over our s g05 some of you old
timers probably recognize this as my
original HTPC case this was this served
me very well I'm actually kind of sad to
see it go it's a little sentimental but
I am happy that it's gonna find a new
home where it'll definitely be used a
lot more than I use it now which is
never and we do need to get back into
our motherboard box one more time for
the i/o shield IO shields that isn't
here I think I just realized why I never
used this board in the first place
that's that's unfortunate I have to use
a different motherboard alright here we
go
sorry gigabyte I tried all right looks
like we're right where we left off oh
wait hold on CPU fan alright now we're
ready for the case first you put your
motherboard and stuff aside and bust out
your i/o shield basically a little
protective plate that goes between your
i/o your inputs and outputs on the back
of your motherboard and your case while
sealing the
back of your case so that the airflow is
not compromised so you want to make sure
that it's lined the right way and you
got to sort of be firm with this to just
keep pushing it from the inside of the
case you might hear a snap or two it
should also be fairly obvious that if
your i/o shield has a painted side that
that painted side goes on the outside of
the case and the sort of foamy cushiony
part goes on the inside you should also
turn around the chassis and take a look
at the i/o shield from this side just to
make sure that it is in fact installed
all the way and it wasn't to see that's
why you do that but that said we can pop
our motherboard in the way I like to do
this is by sort of dipping it in rear
i/o first so dip it in this way all
right and as we go in you want to make
sure that the i/o lines up at the i/o
shield on the back that's the best way
to do it and I'm getting a phone call
again damn it honey hi dear she got
locked out of the building I will be
right back okay Wi-Fi sauce is in the
building everyone and she's actually now
manning one of the cameras so I got got
a cameraman now wives are so useful and
I have to go backwards just for a minute
here because I forgot to mention this I
didn't have to do it in this case but in
some cases you will have to install some
or all of the motherboard standoffs
these are already pre-installed so I
don't have to do anything but these
basically just elevate the motherboard
ever so slightly off the floor of the
chassis and they also help the board a
line with your i/o shield so once that's
all good you get your motherboard screws
which should come included with your
case and you just screw in the
motherboard I like to leave the screws a
little bit loose till the very end that
way in case you need to shift the board
around slightly to get one of the screws
in you can do that it doesn't really
matter what order you screw these in and
you don't want to over tighten them but
you do want them to be snug now I
usually like to connect my front panel
connectors there are these little wires
coming off of the front panel of course
these lead to things like your front
panel USB your mic and headphone jack
your power button reset button and so
forth so we want to get these all wired
up so that the front of our case is
actually functional I'm going to start
with USB 3.0 it's this large 20 pin
connector here so this is a keyed plug
so you want to make sure that it's going
the right way you can see I've already
sort of cable managed some of this from
the previous build inside this case
then we're gonna connect these pesky
little guys you'll have to find the pins
for these on your motherboard and also
consult your motherboard manual to find
out exactly how they should plug in it's
pretty Universal for all boards though
so I've actually kind of memorized the
layout here so I'm just gonna go for it
these are two pin connectors that have a
positive and a ground and you can
usually tell which sides the positive
because there will be a little black
arrow on that connector and then
indicates positive at the other side
being ground obviously so all the front
panel connectors are now wired up we
just have a single fan cable coming off
of our 120 millimeter front-facing fan
and our fan cables actually a zip tied
to the front panel cables so it's
actually not able to reach the nearest
fan header on the motherboard so I need
to snip off those tweeters very careful
not to cut the wires your free fan cable
gives me just enough slack okay moving
on
now another step that I could have
easily done before mounting the
motherboard inside the case but still
isn't a huge deal right now is
installing the m2 SSD we actually have
Samsung 970 Evo nvme m2 drive 250 gig
that'll be our boot drive and that will
mount straight to the motherboard that's
the nice thing about these MDOT two
drives is that you don't need any cables
just mounts in to a and two slots
assuming that your motherboard has one
and the heatsink or cover to that m2
slot is usually held in place by a screw
or two so here you can see our m2 slot
and there's a little post with a little
tiny screw on it you want to unscrew
that screw because that's gonna be the
mounting screw for our I'm about to
drive keep that close
don't lose it it's very tiny then you
want to take your I'm about to drive
these m2 drives are keyed very much like
our memory modules that we just
installed so there's a notch right there
and you have to match that up with the
notch in your m2 slot gently but firmly
and sure it's firmly in there and then
as that is what she said well done wifey
sauce I'm proud of you and then you push
down the drive until it hits the post
and then you screw in that little screw
there it is
now before remounting your m2 heatsink
you actually have to check if there's a
thermal pad underneath and if there is
there may very well be a piece of
protective plastic so you're gonna want
to remove the plastic before you
reinstall this thing so yeah
like I said it's probably a little
easier if you install that before you
install your motherboard into the case
but you know it's really not that bad
either way next up we have the power
supply this is a 450 watt Silverstone
SFX unit which means it is a smaller
form factor than your typical ATX power
supply perfect for a case like this
because it only supports sfx units you
want to find where your power supply
mounts in your case in this instance
we've got a cutout usually at the back
of your case and before you mount it you
want to see which way the fan is facing
all power supplies most power supplies
will have a built-in fan if your case
has a dust filter for your power
supplied then you want to face your fan
towards the dust filter if it doesn't
maybe it's just some ventilation holes
and the other side is peer steel then
you want to give you your fan
the ventilation that it needs in order
to cool components inside this case has
a lovely cover that has a ton of
ventilation at the top so I think it
makes the most sense to have the fan
pointed up you could face it downward
but then I feel like it would be feeling
a little bit of air from your CPU cooler
and you don't want these two fans to
compete for airflow so I'm gonna put it
up and once again you should look to
your case in most instances for your
power supply screws there will most
likely be four of them unlike most of
the other screws that you'll be screwing
in a build like this they should be nice
and firm that is what she said again
whyphy sauce to kyle zero you may have
also noticed that I already plugged in
all my power supply cables that I knew I
would need for the build into the unit
itself before I started installing said
unit that definitely helps especially in
a smaller case keeps you from having to
fish around inside the chassis get all
that plugged in just like that the power
supply was installed so let me quickly
go over the the actual cables that we
have here we have our eight pin eight
pin EPS 12-volt connector for our power
supply 24 pin supplemental ATX
motherboard power this powers your
motherboard you can see that it's
actually 20+4 pin all these are keyed
they all have a latch on one side and
there will be a little notch on each of
the connectors that you're plugging
these into the latch should go on the
same side as the knotch
very straightforward but you want to
make sure that you're plugging these in
the right way we have a SATA power cable
that actually has three SATA plugs
coming off of it on a single cable so
you can actually power multiple drives
or SATA devices with a single cable this
is actually the only plug here that does
not have the sort of latch and notch
mechanism instead it has sort of an
l-shaped
it's not symmetrical that will determine
which way it plugs in and finally we
have our PCI Express cables which power
our graphics card and we will be
installing a discrete GPU in here just a
moment we got 2 6 plus 2 pin connectors
here I'm gonna plug in the 8 pin first
you'll hear a nice satisfying click you
probably can't hear it from here but
that'll indicate that the latch of the
plug has engaged with the notch on the
connector and then I'm gonna go for the
24 pin ATX you'll see that there's sort
of a little lip that the 4 pin has that
lip has to go underneath just like that
to sort of lock in and engage with the
rest of the connector before you start
trying to plug it in there it is now at
this point I also have to install a SATA
cable now I know I already mentioned
that power supply has plenty of SATA
connectors coming off of it this is for
power we also need a SATA cable for data
if we're gonna plug in a mechanical hard
drive which we are in just a moment so
the SATA cables that come included with
your motherboard should look something
like this
alright these are also keyed they have a
little L shape on the connector so you
want to find that l-shaped connector on
your motherboard for a mini ITX port
like this it shouldn't really matter
which one you plug it into you just want
to make sure that whatever port you're
plugging into is natively controlled by
your motherboards chipset it's usually
more of an issue on larger form factor
motherboards where you have so many SATA
ports that they can't all be natively
controlled by the chipset so they wire
some of them up to an add-on controller
and I can lead to slightly reduced
performance in some cases so you want to
check your motherboard manual for that
so here it is again we have SATA power
coming straight from our power supply
and say the data coming from the
motherboard now obviously we have a very
fast nvme drive in here already but
that's just for our boot drive
relatively small for actual storage
purposes at 250 gigs so I'll also be
installing this very adorable WD black
one terabyte two and a half inch drive
now this mechanical drive will be going
into this metal cage it's a drive cage
which is part of the case you can fit
that two and a half inch drive right in
here
and you'll also notice that I have a
slim blu-ray player already installed
it's not working though there's actually
no power going to it there hasn't been
in a long time because Windows 10
doesn't natively playback blu-rays and
I'm too cheap I've always been too cheap
to fork out the money for an overpriced
blu-ray playing software so whoever wins
this thing can decide what to do with
that optical drive as for now it just
serves an aesthetic purpose because
without it installed now you just get
nasty open SWAT on the front panel there
so this Drive will install this way and
for these two and a half inch drives
there are two holes on either side
there's really not much to installing
these drives you just want to make sure
that it's being installed the right way
and that your SATA connectors are
actually facing the way that you want
them to be so that when you're ready to
wire them up you have enough reach now
that we have our botanical drive and our
optical drive installed in the cage we
can install the cage into the
motherboard so you just got a slot it in
like so making sure that the front of
that optical drive is flush with the
front panel and then you just screw it
down or screws now let's get that SATA
drive wired up shall we kind of hard to
see for you guys it's kind of hard for
me to see too wired up and last but
certainly not least is the video card so
we have an EVGA geforce gtx 1066
gigabyte card right here and you can see
it's sort of one of the more compact
designs it's a little mini now your
discreet graphics card is gonna go
inside of your full-size by sixteen PCIe
slot if you have a mini ITX board like
we do here you only have one of those
it's very simple you usually have sort
of a latch or locking mechanism here
that either needs to be pushed down or
slid over in some capacity to release or
unlock the slot repair it for mounting
but she said Heather to Kyle won and
then you also want to make sure that if
you have expansion slots already
installed in your case which usually
they are you remove those with a
Phillips head screw usually or if
they're thumb screws you might be able
to twist them if they're not too tight
from the factory so what those covers
removed you kind of install this in a
similar fashion again like we did with
the memory and the m2 Drive even where
you have this connector of gold contacts
and there is a notch that has to line up
with the notch on your PCIe slot that'll
help you get things aligned so once you
get it hovered over that slot you just
push it down even pressure and the latch
should now be back up your GPU is only
half mounted though you still have to
bolt down the back end here so get a
couple of screws so the S g05 actually
has this little plate here that goes
over your card like so and you screw in
from the outside like that one on the
back the last thing we got to do here is
plug in our GPU connect it to the power
supply that power cable so the number
and type of power plugs that your
graphics card requires is going to vary
based on the model this one in
particular only has a single six pin
connector
on it you guys will forgive them not
being able to see anything because I
just can't show you what I'm doing and
do it practically at the same time aha
alright yes Edson oh very firm indeed
damn it why he sauce three tile one that
was a cheap one that was really hard
that's what she said well here it is
feast your eyes on that GPU fully
installed power cable right there I
don't know how well you guys can see it
but there it is for that matter the
entire build is now complete feast your
eyes I mean the cable management could
be a little tidier I didn't spend any
time at all really doing it but
considering the size of this of this
case it's actually not terrible gotta
love the form factor in size of this
thing
it's just so incredibly compact you can
literally take it anywhere so whoever
wins this thing hopefully they enjoy it
and treat it with love and kindness
that's gonna do it guys I told you it
was quick and dirty if you enjoyed the
video toss a like on it before you go
and get subscribed for more tech stuff
coming at you really soon also if you
want to find parts to any of this stuff
I'll drop them in the description have a
good one guys I will see you all in the
next video
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.