Here's what a $200 case gets you in 2018. H500M Build & Review
Here's what a $200 case gets you in 2018. H500M Build & Review
2018-05-29
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what's going on guys Kyle with big wood
here welcome back to the channel today
I'm taking a closer look at the H 500 M
from cooler master this is their brand
new mid tower case that builds upon the
existing H 500 P cases such as the
original and the mesh version but it's
$200 u.s. it's a little bit more
expensive but it also has a lot more
premium features to boot so we'll be
exploring those later today this is a
very interesting case it has a very
similar design language as the existing
H 500 PS however there are some slight
changes on the outside and we'll work
our way in later we have a lot of
tempered glass going on here there's a
tempered glass side panel on both sides
on both the left and right that operate
in very much the same way that the H
hundred P cases do where there's a
single thumb screw that you can turn 90
degrees and that it'll sort of slide or
tilt down but it won't actually come all
the way off if there's a safety latch
that protects it from just falling and
shattering on your table or something
like that so it's a very smart well
thought-out design I'm glad to see it
returned for this case and there's also
tempered glass on the very top panel
that is removable though the whole top
panel can be removed with a single thumb
screw at the back and then it slides
back and pops off very easily but the
tempered glass at the top is nice
because it allows you to see your fans
any case fans that you might have up
there radiators and so forth taking a
look at the front of our case you can
see that the entire front panel is
completely mesh however the case
includes a second front panel insert in
this rectangular shape that's full
tempered glass so if you wanted to swap
out the mesh rectangular piece right
here for glass you could very well do
that if that's your aesthetic preference
I personally like the mesh here
obviously that's gonna be much better
for airflow and I think it just it looks
perfectly fine especially since you
already have these large pieces of mesh
on either side of the front panel either
way that that really matched well with
the the front mesh another thing to
point out with the mesh area here
actually all the mesh on this case
including the top panel as well has this
sort of honeycomb shape but then behind
that
is a much finer mesh that actually
serves as as a dust filter essentially
so basically the entire front and the
entire top panels are doubling as their
own dust filters which i think is pretty
cool obviously you might have to clean
it off a little bit more often if you
want to preserve that really clean look
because dust will be very visible all
over the case however I think it's a
very straightforward easy solution that
just seems to make sense also the other
thing I want to say is even if you were
to pop in the tempered glass panel here
at the front it still looks like you'd
get some pretty decent airflow because
the the ventilation the the mesh on the
sides of the front panel are fairly
large and even more importantly there's
a fairly sizable gap between the front
installed fans and the front of the
panel which means that there should be
healthy airflow coming in from at least
the sides of the panel of course having
the full mesh at the front would open up
the case for even more airflow while
we're on the topic of fans you get a
pre-installed 140 millimeter a fairly
standard black case fan at the back and
then you get two pre-installed 200
millimeter addressable RGB fans and the
lighting there can be controlled with
either the included controller or you
could even use something like Asus or a
sink or msi mystic light I believe the
support for gigabyte fusion is still
pending however and obviously you have
to make sure that whatever motherboard
you're using has a addressable RGB
header on it now this is already
chalking up to be a pretty decent case
for air cooling however it doesn't skimp
on water cooling support either as you
get support for up to a 280 or 360
millimetre radiator at the front or the
top of the case and there's even support
for a 200 millimetre radiator at the
front the only 200 millimeter rad I've
seen up until this point has been the
one at the cooler master suite at CES
earlier this year which I would have to
assume they're launching sometime soon
maybe at Computex or shortly after just
to complement the feature set of this
case additionally we have a pretty
robust front panel IO here including a
power button that's in the shape of a
cooler master logo but doesn't have any
cooler master branding which I can very
much appreciate what looks to be a reset
button to the right of that I'm not sure
if that's the reset button
or controls the RGB lighting will test
that out later and then we have audio
and mic jacks with four USB 3.0 ports
and a USB 3.1 type-c gen 2 port at the
front Thank You Coolermaster let's just
to give a little little clap
the front panel paneling looks very nice
it's kind of got this glossy black
finish that continues around the rest of
the case however it's very prone to dust
buildup lint and fingerprints so you'll
want to maintain it regularly if you
want to keep that clean exterior moving
around to the back you get some flexible
mounting strips for either that
pre-installed 140 millimeter fan or a
120 fan
there's also seven expansion slots along
with two vertical slots if you wanted to
mount a GPU vertically in this case
however no riser card is included of
course and then there's a very nice
power supply bracket with four beefy
thumb screws with a removable slide-out
dust filter for your power supply at the
very bottom that pretty much covers the
outside of the case one thing that I
forgot to point out is that anything on
the outside that's not mesh or glass is
probably plastic there's a lot of
plastic pieces going on around here very
similar to the plastic that was used on
the H 500 PE the original case however
this case overall feels much sturdier
because they've reinforced the top and
front panels to not pop off so easily
when you're just casually lugging the
case around so overall I think it does
feel like a much more premium case at
least from the outside but let's take a
look at the inside I should grab some
some components that are lying around
here and we should start building a
system inside of this case to get a
better feel for the internal layout and
how it all works so let's go ahead and
do that now so taking a look at the
internal layout here a couple things I
want to mention first off we have a
fairly generous cut out for our CPU
cooler that currently has this sort of
cover plate on the back behind the
motherboard tray which we'll take a
closer look at later and then I've
actually installed the nine standoffs
that we need for our ATX motherboard
initially there were only two standoffs
that were pre-installed the middle one
and the top middle one both of these are
ridged or they have a little lip around
them so it's easier to mount your
motherboard initially but I did have to
mount install the other
standoffs so with the motherboard
installed you get a better idea of how
large this internal space is because
this is a standard ATX motherboard and
the chassis does support up to e ATX
however so there's actually a mounting
hole here you can see for an e ATX board
standoff and if you did install an ATX
board you'd probably be covering up a
portion maybe about half of these rubber
grommets here you get three in total
just to the right of the motherboard
they're fairly large fairly high quality
and they seem snug they seem like
they're not going to pop out
you know start passing a bunch of cables
through them there's also a pair of
medium-size cable cutouts just above
your motherboard however these are not
grommeted that being said if you're
installing fans or a radiator and some
fans at the top of your case you're
probably not gonna be seeing much of
those cutouts anyway and at the very
foot of your motherboard you'll find a
fairly large cutout for routing
additional cables this cutout is
actually sort of a missing piece of the
power supply shroud so it's not very
visible which is why it's also not
grounded it doesn't really need to be
and this is also where you would route a
couple cables your SATA cables
particularly if you were mounting SSDs
to the top of your power supply which
we'll take a look at in just a bit over
here we have a steel panel that can
actually house two two and a half inch
drives with these handy little peg
screws that they're pretty much like
little mini thumb screws you screw them
in to your SSD one in each of the holes
and then you can pretty much just like
pop em in like little pegs boom it's
like virtually tooless and very easy to
use you could pop it there or right here
there's even a cutout here for writing
safety cables and there's also enough
space here if you wanted to just route
save the cables underneath straight from
underneath the panel as well you'll also
notice that there are some flexible
mounting strips for a reservoir if you
want to do some custom water cooling in
here that is also very much appreciated
this little guy is actually really cool
it's sort of a crutch for your video
card to eliminate GPU sag it's very
simple the way it works very straight
forward it's just a rubber pad that has
two screws that if you loosen them you
can sort of move the pad up and down so
that it's in the right position for
hoisting up your particular model of
graphics card will definitely be testing
this out later on in the build taking a
look at the lower half of the case we
get a very nice power supply basement
that spans the whole length of the case
it's actually a two-piece sort of shroud
here the rear area that covers the power
supply that actually has this other
removable piece it looks like it's a got
a cooler master logo here but no actual
branding I believe you can pop this out
if you want to show off your power
supply if you if you have RGB or
something like that or you just want to
wrap the brand or whatever on top of
this part of the power supply shroud we
get some more rubber pads for you guests
it's two two and a half inch drives if
you wanted to mount the pair of SSDs to
the top here so that they're visible
through your side panel window you could
go ahead and do that with the same sort
of peg mounting system that we saw with
the steel wall earlier works very well
very nice and clean looking and here's a
nice a nice shot of that large cable cut
out that I
earlier at the base of your motherboard
where you would ideally route all of
your SATA cables to either of these
drives and then you've also got this
front piece that is sort of hiding your
hard drive cage underneath removing this
as well as the hard drive cage will also
open up additional clearance for your
radiators and fans at the front of your
case should you be installing them on
top of the hard drive shroud you'll find
a removable bracket for custom water
cooling pumps that's held in place by
two screws as well as a sort of radiator
lid that can be popped off that way you
can have additional clearance for a
radiator for example at the front of
your case without really compromising on
the hard drive cage underneath you'll
still be able to have that installed I
believe by sliding it over as we'll see
a little bit later now something to bear
in mind at the top your case is that you
only have a clearance of 43 millimeters
for your radiator and your fans which I
am not currently meeting and that's why
I'm bumping into my motherboards vrm
heat sink and unable to mount this
radiator to the top what I'm gonna have
to do is pop these fans off and place
them on top of the frame on the opposite
side of the frame here so that they're
just sitting right underneath that glass
top panel and that way everything will
fit properly so let me go ahead and swap
that now radiator and fans are installed
properly now and you can see I routed
all the cable fans through this opening
this little cutout here at the top of
the case all the cables routed through
just fine there's also another cut out
towards the back I guess I could have
used that one too because it eventually
got pretty tight especially since these
are RGB fans that have two cables coming
off of each fan but everything threaded
through just fine let's go ahead and pop
that top panel on really quick and just
see how everything fits yeah oh yeah
that went on no problem and it looks
like there's still about maybe an inch
maybe an inch or so of space between the
fan blades and the top glass piece so
there's plenty of room for for healthy
exhaust going on at the top of the case
here in this current configuration so no
red flags here alright we've already got
our power supply bracket installed to
the unit and we can pretty much just
load it from the back of the case but
I'm gonna pop off this cover here this
is actually like a power supply cover
that I don't believe was on the original
H 500 P or the H 500 P mesh if I
remember correctly I could be wrong but
I don't remember it really um so it pops
up oh and hey look we've got a sort of a
troller here for our RGB stuff
addressable RGB connectors that is SATA
powered and it looks like there's also
micro USB for potentially firmware
updates if you wanted to send them
straight to the board here and this is
what I was talking about earlier they've
actually plugged in your reset switch
front panel connector into this two pin
header on this board so that you can
actually use that button for controlling
your RGB function and different modes
and stuff or you could just plug this
into your standard front panel
connectors on your motherboard if you
still wanted to use your button for
resetting the system so let's go ahead
and leave this off for now and install
our power supply looks like you get 2
additional covers behind the motherboard
tray here as well including the CPU
cooler cutout which we sort of saw the
other side of earlier and then this very
large one that probably covers most of
where your cables might go let me go
ahead and unscrew these there's two
Phillips head screws for this larger
panel looks like it's on a hinge so
doesn't quite oh yeah you can take it
off that's nice that comes off no
problem and then it looks like we have
no screws for this I believe it's two
lists yeah you just pop off very easily
I'm just gonna start routing some stuff
while we're back here oh wow
this power supply cable hardly fits
through this fricking cutout you're
gonna make me you're gonna make me take
them apart you're gonna make me split
them just to get them through there
alright I have it your way I don't care
now let's take a look at this hard drive
cage which is hiding underneath this
panel as I mentioned before there are
actually three screws that you need to
undo in order to remove this front
section of the hard drive shroud so I've
already removed the the screws there's
two of them down here and one behind the
motherboard tray and you pops out like
Sol ok and if you take a look at the
hard drive cage you can house two three
and a half inch or two two and a half
inch drives so that's nice but the other
thing that I want to point out here is
that you access the hard drives from
this side of the case not from the
backside behind the motherboard tray
which means if you ever need to service
your hard drives or swap them out should
one die god forbid you actually have to
remove this entire portion of the power
supply shroud and if you're in the
middle of you know using a custom
water-cooled PC that you've built in
this chassis and you've got you know
your pump and your reservoir and stuff
you're kind of disrupting a lot in your
system just to access your hard drives
which I don't think a lot of people are
gonna be a huge fan of that personal
opinion but you guys let me know what
you think the cages are plastic and
they're very bendy super bendy actually
that way you can sort of mount the hard
drives to lessly because there are those
pins that you kind of just slot it in it
goes in the the four holes of your hard
drive and you slide it back in
obviously the SSDs are gonna need to get
four screws from the bottom so to
unmount this part of the shroud you
actually need to remove one two three
four five screws because there are two
additional screws at the very back of
the case helping hold it in place and
then it should pop off like so now we're
moving both pieces of your power supply
shroud allows you to move the hard drive
cage in one of two locations the first
position being right here up at the
front of the case so that you have
additional room for your power supply
maybe some excess cabling or you can
slide it over a couple inches to the
left
that way you open up the front of the
case for perhaps a water cooling
radiator or some fans taking a closer
look behind the motherboard tray we get
two more mounting points for SSDs
so we have the same peg mounting
solution for two and a half inch drives
that works
oh so beautifully and you can route your
cables straight from the bottom here
because this this cable cover for your
power supply actually has a cutout you
can see cables are able to actually
route right there and up to your drives
very nice and then we've also got a
bunch of tie-down points all around the
motherboard tray and very smart easy to
reach locations the one thing that I'm
conflicted about with this case at least
for the cable management side of things
are these large covers I don't know how
to feel about these on one hand they
look really nice when they're put into
place because obviously you have a
tempered glass side panel window on this
side of the case you can see everything
it does make everything look clean when
they're installed at the same time I
feel like it creates more work for the
end user because look I can't even
really mount this cover here without
rearranging this cable and sort of
redoing my cable management on that end
I don't know I I'm so on the fence here
I need your guys's opinion let me know
in the comments do you find these things
valuable is this a value add to you or
is this sort of gimmicky kind of a waste
of your time and money I don't know let
me know in the comments because I don't
know how to feel right now all right
step one pop in the GPU screw or Diane
and I intentionally pick the card that
I know has a little bit of GPU sag let's
see if our little friend here can help
us out I've loosened the screws already
that's how I'm able to slide it up and
down that looks pretty good so tighten
it down right there and voila like zero
absolutely zero GPU sack it wasn't
really that bad to begin with maybe you
know like a couple degrees of a bend but
but now there's absolutely nothing it's
perfectly straight completely parallel
with the with with the desk and stuff so
beautiful this this thing works it
actually works and it's very easy to use
so yay alright so the system is complete
and I've already got it up and running
looking good so far I've kind of got my
own little stress test going on here
with Unigine Heaven 4.0 running in the
background at 2560 by 1440 to really put
a load on our GT X 1080 which is running
it stock settings and we also have a
risin 7 1800 X sorry all my second gen
rising chips are in use at the moment
but this is also running its stock
settings at around 3.7 gigahertz and you
can see right here we've actually got
the system stability test for a 264
running as well this is running
concurrently with Unigine Heaven 4.0 so
that we're taxing both our CPU and our
GPU fairly heavily all cores are running
at 100% utilization as is the GPU are
actually GPU load yeah GPU loads is
anywhere from 75 to a hundred percent
but more or less it's it's close to the
90 to 100% range and you can see right
here our package temp for the CPU is 62
degrees Celsius at the moment very
respectable no red flags there and our
GPU is hovering right around 71 72
degrees Celsius I believe the hottest
it's gotten so far in the 15 or 20
minutes of Unigine heaven is about 74
degrees Celsius so altogether not too
shabby
as far as acoustics go I'm sitting about
a foot and a half to 2 feet away from
the case and it's actually fairly quiet
it's definitely audible but it's sort of
a low hum it's kind of a calming white
noise
I think that's partially due to the the
large 200 millimeter fans they're not
quite as high pitched or whiny as
smaller fans are and overall you know if
you're listening to some in-game sound
you're not gonna be able to hear the
system in its current state much at all
so altogether I'm pretty happy with how
this turned out let's go ahead and wrap
this video up so overall I'm pretty
impressed with this case I think $200 is
a lot too
and on the case these days especially
when there were so many great options
way cheaper than that but at the same
time this thing brings a lot of features
to the table and that's not to say that
there aren't other 200 other cases on
the market that have just as many
features but those features are
inherently different than the one that
this case offers so I think at the end
of the day if you have 200 dollars to
spend on a case you have to ask yourself
and what are you looking for
do you really value the amount of custom
water-cooling support this has you know
a dedicated pump bracket and reservoir
mount do you absolutely love the design
language and aesthetic of this case that
you really can't find elsewhere are you
a huge fan of the 200 millimeter
addressable RGB fans that again is a
very unique selling point to this
particular chassis if you're answering
yes to all of these then this is
definitely a case worth checking out and
again the one the only one big problem
that I have with this case is the hard
drive cage I was nitpicking at
everything else but the hard drive cage
I just wish it was flipped so you could
access the drives from behind the
motherboard tray you didn't have to
remove the power supply shroud yada yada
yada but for the most part a fantastic
case good job Coolermaster for making a
lot of right decisions this time around
and thank you to all of you for watching
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in the video description until next time
guys thank you so much for tuning in
have yourselves a good one and I'll see
you all in the next day
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