My CPU dropped *20 DEGREES* after my first delidding
My CPU dropped *20 DEGREES* after my first delidding
2018-10-08
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so my sky like X Corps I 979 ATX e that
was previously deleted by Steve from
gamers Nexus is now overheating like a
mother effer
I wish I should have just said the whole
word and then bleeped it out and post
too scared of the algorithm now so to be
clear Steve had nothing to do with why
the CPU is now overheating when I
initially got it back from him I was
working perfectly fine temps were
amazing and it wasn't until a couple
months later when I actually drained the
loop and I took the CPU out of its
socket for a good cleaning and then I
put it back in the system refilled the
loop that's when it started overheating
so I think in the process of taking it
out of its socket that the retention
clasp may have just alleviated enough
pressure off of the IHS to sort of move
move it around in a place that it
shouldn't be or maybe kind of mess with
some of the liquid metal that's
underneath there could be air bubbles it
could be a number of things I'm not sure
but I'm pretty sure the very least that
the issue started because of that that
drain and fill procedure that I did so
today we're actually gonna try to delete
it again and reapply liquid metal and
hopefully that'll get us back on track
in the thermal Dept so what I have here
is a delayed tool from your Bower wood
she was actually sent to me from Steve
he this is his and I'm gonna try using
it today for the first time I've never
deleted anything before guys so this
could get I'm a little nervous just a
little nervous but with Steve's guidance
I also watched his tutorial I'm feeling
pretty confident so let's just go ahead
and do this alright so I put it in there
I made sure that the triangle you know
the triangles are matching there's a
nice handy little triangle there for
reference for free guidance and then you
put it in there make sure that it's
slotted in this isn't a tutorial by the
way did go watch this video I'm just
kind of walking you guys through what
I'm doing here and then I'm going to
start tightening this bolt so as I
tighten the bolt it'll sort of push this
lever
and then this Smasher is Steve calls it
is is the thing that actually puts
pressure against your IHS so that's
about as far as I can turn it with my
fingers so now I got to use this allen
key I'm gonna go ahead and turn it
slowly I'm just gonna wait until I see
the IHS shift maybe half a millimeter or
maybe a millimeter or so oh I heard it I
heard it kind of shift there so I'm
gonna stop right there
oh yeah it's already coming off I
already saw it sort of a shift and
hopefully I can just pry it off I
believe you have to use vertical
vertical pulling you can't like do a
rotational type of spin it up there air
it is ah oh boy Wow look at that all
right we did it guys we did it
my first deal and I'm so excited I feel
giddy it's fun alright so it looks like
there is some liquid metal in there we
would hope but you know obviously I
don't really know to look for as far as
like signs I mean obviously I can't see
any air bubbles or anything like that
but I'm just gonna give it a good
cleaning making sure not to mess with
any of the the caps capacitors or other
componentry around the substrate and I'm
gonna reapply the liquid metal and
hopefully once I reseal it everything
will be working perfectly fine so the
first thing to do is obviously clean off
this liquid metal here using some
rubbing alcohol and a q-tip
just to make sure I'm gonna finish it
off with a bit of paper towel here all
right
that is a clean looking guy right there
shiny okay I'm gonna clean off the IHS
now
all right so both the IHS and the dye
are clean so I'm gonna go ahead and
apply some liquid metal now we've got
conduct and not thermal grizzly this is
the good stuff
and I have also never done this before
so yet another thing that I may
potentially screw up it's a good thing
that I'm recording all of this I believe
Steve's tutorial said to sort of score
it out a little a little just a tiny
little drop first up there that might be
it that might be all I need right there
let's see if I can pick it up with my
needle aha all right so I wish that I
could just you know sandwich this little
drop here with the IHS as is like we do
with regular thermal paste but
unfortunately that's not how this liquid
metal works instead you got to sort of
spread it out using a q-tip preferably I
guess you could use your finger if you
wanted to or like an actual spreader I'm
just gonna go ahead and very carefully
spread this across the entire surface of
the die
all right wifey sauce is taking over she
she saw what I was doing and she was
fascinated by it so team effort I
suppose also if the CPU ends up dying or
doesn't work for some reason okay I'm
gonna say that looks good for now now
I'm gonna do a close-up check here to
see if there's any liquid metal on the
substrate where it shouldn't be
should literally only ever be on the die
and it looks like looks like we're good
and now I'm just gonna go ahead and
remount the IHS onto the substrate we're
not gonna do a permanent seal or
anything I don't have any silicone on me
anyway
but what I've learned in recent weeks is
that most people who delayed their CPUs
opt out of permanently resealing the IHS
just to make it easier to sort of get in
there later down the line if they want
to reapply liquid metal or whatever sort
of material they're using and and you
don't really need to
honestly the actual pressure of whatever
socket you're putting it into will keep
it clamped down enough and as long as
you're just careful when handling it in
general you should be fine so I'm gonna
go ahead and put this guy back on making
sure that it is facing the same way of
course is when I lit it it I've actually
got another sky like X processor here
just to sort of model after just to see
exactly how the IHS lines up with the
substrate it's actually very handy
alright so we're gonna drop this thing
into a test system now this is actually
gonna be the same test build that I put
this guy into as soon as I realized it
was overheating in the end - a leak
build cuz I wanted to make sure that was
actually the CPU and not maybe some sort
of mounting mechanism with the monoblock
or anything like that
and sure enough even in this test build
it was spiking up to t.j.maxx pretty
much so let's go ahead and drop it into
that same rig right now and see what
happens alright so first things first we
booted which means that there was no
issue with like liquid metal touching
any of the capacitors or anything else
that it wasn't supposed to on the
substrate so that's great the second
thing here is that our idle temps are
actually looking a lot better off the
bat than they were before this whole
process I think of as idling before it
must have been like 45 55 as she was
really bad and here we have in the 30s
or so which is already a huge
improvement I would say so things are
looking good right now I'm feeling
optimistic but you never really know
what the sort of things so I've got
Adobe Media encoder CC 2018 open right
here so we're actually gonna render a
five-minute clip this is the same way
that I was testing the CPU before this
whole deleting procedure so let's go
ahead and start keep an eye on those
core temps cores for 13 and 17 I believe
we're the sort of culprits those cores
in particular were really overheating
and causing the CPU package tend to just
soar through the roof and right now
things are looking pretty good
but you want to give it a little bit of
time with the W Premiere Pro or Media
encoder it doesn't immediately start
putting a full load on the system until
maybe a quarter of the way through and
then especially half half the way
through is about as hot as a CPU will
ever get at least in my experience so
right now things are looking good though
we're spiking up to around 68 69 mm-hmm
we're actually clocking at 4 gigahertz
that's right on the money and also the
render is going a lot faster this time
which means we're not we're not thermal
throttling this five-minute clip took
over 10 minutes to render before the
deal it'd and now it looks like it's
gonna finish it in about 5 minutes time
which is which is normal it's pretty
standard for a 79 80 XC r entering this
at 4k I should also mention that the CPU
is not overclocked we're running bone
stock right now and it's being cooled by
a three hundred and sixty millimeter
thermal take ring plus I believe we're
already more than halfway through the
render but here we are hovering at
around 80 degrees C so I think it's safe
to say this worked it actually worked
I'm pretty stoked right now and I can't
actually wait to pop this into the elite
build now and see what kind of temps we
get with a full-blown liquid cooled loop
so yeh thank you very much Steve for all
of your guidance and your help and the D
lid tool and everything and yeah I guess
this is all to say that if you are
curious about D letting you should do it
because I was able to do it and if I can
do it
pretty sure anyone can those are true
words wifey sauce is nodding yes as well
because she knows I'm inadequate it
mostly everything but hey I feel good I
feel good I feel good about myself I'm
gonna get my stuff little little round
of applause there so this was fun
oh wait geez sorry I should probably let
it finish rendering just to make sure
that there's no last-minute things and
no less minute issues but we only got
like 10 seconds left of our render a t
presea is is looking like it's the
hottest at the cpu got that's down from
a hundred and four so yeah it definitely
worked and look at that we were able to
render this guy in about four minutes or
so as opposed to nearly triple that when
it was overheating that's how thermal
throttling works now the CPU is staying
within its thermal constraints it
doesn't have to down clock the frequency
in order to stay within those operating
boundaries so things are looking really
good and I'm very happy that this worked
out my first deal it was a success and
liquid metal isn't quite as intimidating
as some may think at least my experience
so thank you guys for watching this
video if you enjoyed it toss a like on
and get subscribed for more stuff coming
at you really soon and I'll see you guys
in the next video
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