CNET On Cars - How To: Diagnose an electrical leak in your car
CNET On Cars - How To: Diagnose an electrical leak in your car
2015-06-30
well I can hardly think of anything more
frustrating than a battery in your car
that's dead every morning and the
frustrating part is what's causing it
this so-called parasitic loss or phantom
draw is frustrating to track down
because unless it's caused by something
visible like a light bulb how do you
spot it but I can show you some simple
tips to track it down very quickly that
you're likely gonna need at some point
with today's heavily electrical and
electronic cars now the first thing you
want to do before you start this process
is to make sure you've got a good
battery state good charge and since the
car's been crapping out I bet you've
already invested in a battery charger so
hook it up overnight let it charge up
the battery before we get started you
should see good numbers on the display
next make sure the car is not actually
drawing any power obviously it got to be
switched off the key is out doors are
closed and no lights are on if some of
those take a moment because of internal
timers now set up your meter for a test
like this I want you to put the black
cable that came with it into the port
called common and the red test lead goes
in the one that will typically say 10
amps 10 a or 10 a DC like this one
because that's the kind of test we're
gonna be doing then turn your meter on
and go to the 10 amp DC position on its
dial now it's time to attach your meter
if you've got a charger connected to the
battery now you want to pull it off
now you want to put your positive
terminal back on make sure the car has
that on and tighten so positive is back
on negative stays off then your meter is
put in line between the cable for
negative and the terminal for negative
now most clips are only big enough to go
around your cable getting around that
terminal on the batteries asking a lot
so just hold your connector there and
take a look at the reading on the meter
what you want to see is a number that is
in the milliamp say very low number 30
40 maybe 50 at most it's okay the
batteries not gonna die very soon with
that little bit of trickle but when I
see what I've got here nearly two and a
half amps that's a dramatically bigger
draw and that's gonna kill my battery
overnight now that I verified I've got a
draw I need to go into the car to look
for it but still see the meter operating
so get some kind of a clamp like one of
these and make sure you've got both of
your leads from your meter connected to
the battery so you can be hands-free
this is important when you've got your
meter hooked up like this do not start
the car turn on the headlights or do
anything like that leave the car dead or
you're gonna fry that meter and who
knows what else
put this meter up in the windshield
where you can see it and then let's go
around the driver's door okay now with
our meter set up where I can see it up
on the windshield I go down to the fuse
box by the way some cars have several
scattered around the vehicle check the
owners manual luckily here on the
Boxster we just have one to deal with
now it's just a very simple process just
start pulling each fuse one at a time
look at the meter see if it drops your
draw down where it should be and if not
put the fuse back in go on to the next
one it's tedious but it's easy it cost
you nothing
okay I've been pulling fuses for a few
minutes here getting no results and then
all of a sudden I found one that did
look at that nice low current reading
that's c3 on this car so I grabbed a
little fuse map and see what it says and
it tells me that's basically interior
locking and lights so I've discovered
the system that is doing the draw now
from here it's going to be up to you all
if you want to have it fixed or whether
you think you can look around and find
out what the problem is if you do want
to try and go further and diagnose it
there are four major areas to look at is
there a motor that's running when it
shouldn't is there a light staying on
when it shouldn't is there a switch
that's causing one of those to stay on
when it shouldn't or is there a wire
going to one of those things that I've
discovered that it's frayed or damaged
that's arcing out against some piece of
metal in the car now whether you're
gonna fix the problem you've identified
or take it to a shop and get it done you
really accomplished two things just now
with almost no effort and no cost you've
got peace of mind about what the problem
really is and secondly you just found an
easy way to buy yourself some time if
you can live without the system but this
fuse used to power up you can leave it
out and now your car is not going to
discharge until you get the time and/or
money to get it fixed
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