Fashion photography Photoshop tutorial: Behind the Shot with Andrew Hoyle
Fashion photography Photoshop tutorial: Behind the Shot with Andrew Hoyle
2018-07-31
vibrant colors dramatic makeup and some
interesting paper play are all ideas I
had in mind when I put together this
fashion shoot for C net and now let's go
behind the scenes and see how I got
these shots now C net is not a fashion
magazine so this is not the sort of
thing I would normally shoot but we've
been using this camera already for our
show techadon and it seemed like a great
idea to put it to use on a proper
fashion shoot and I thought what a great
opportunity to do a behind-the-scenes
video on what I consider when I'm taking
photos of people from the camera
placement to the models placement to
things like the lighting and the makeup
so what you can see what I've done I've
got rid of that big modifier it gives a
really great light really really soft it
falls beautifully over the skin but it's
a little too broad so we've swapped it
out going with this beauty dish there's
a grid on it and that this helps focus
the light straight down it's not just
getting more spill in the background and
it's coming up really nicely in the
shots so I'm pleased and we're going to
carry on and just get a few more in this
position before we change out and try
something else
that looks great okay up into the light
for me so when we look up into the ligh
what we see as we get this really nice
catch light in the eyes which looks
absolutely great or we get some lovely
shine on the lipstick it's got this big
girl off that looks fantastic
and now we're going to begin phase two
then phase two involves all these
triangles which I spent most of last
night cutting out by hand so we have I
reckon about thousands probably a few
more the idea beings that we're going to
solve glue these I'm afraid to your face
and then layer these up almost like
scales going all the way down those have
this cascading effect of these paper
triangles hopefully if it works out in
my head then it's gonna look great but
otherwise it might look pretty terrible
and they all just delete all this and
you'll never really see it off but Sam
Ramez will try
so it's taken a while but we have got
our pretty much all of the triangles on
that we wanted or feathers I will use
using the air quotes I love the way that
they also leave flow at the shoulder and
up the neck so what I want to try and do
with this is just using the one light
probably with the beauty dish try and
get the light in the right angle so that
you get this bit of shadow underneath
each triangle to hopefully give it some
really nice depth and have a little
really standout couldn't really cool
we are in the final stages now I
absolutely promise what we've got is got
all the rest of the feathers coming
around both shoulders now we've come
away from the background so we can get
some background light on they're using a
second light and instead we've got this
huge softbox here giving this really
nice light spreading all over but
crucially here we are using this piece
of black card just to block off this
light coming here so that you've got
this nice fall off in the picture just
below where the feathers go so when we
take a shot we can see that the face is
really nicely lit but that light just
falls off gradually towards the bottom
as you produce that again and we'll
bring that up a little bit more to about
there please okay that looks really nice
yeah I'm really pleased with how that
light looks okay I think that might be
it for today we can go and take a look
at the shots we've got in post so now
we've done the shoot it's time to move
over into the editing process now I will
typically use Lightroom capture one if
I'm shooting with that with phase one
and Adobe Photoshop but for this edit
I'm going to stick mostly with Photoshop
to show you what I'd go about doing in
terms of objects removal in cleaning up
these stray hairs and of course in some
of the color toning that I want to do
let's go and take a look okay so here we
are now the first thing we're going to
do is just clean up the image a little
bit any imperfections in the skin any
errors that we've got in the makeup or
stray hairs anything like that is what
we're going to take a look at and the
tool that we're going to use for this
mostly is the Spot Healing Brush tool
which we've selected here and we'll go
for slightly larger brush size
and what this brush allows to do is
basically as you can see here just go
and paint over any little spots if you
want to get rid of and Photoshop will
automatically look at the pixels
surrounding that and just fill in that
information with what it thinks it
should be
okay so on these bits of hair because
it's a larger area I'm going to try and
use a different tool that's the patch
tool and with this you can basically
draw around an area that you want to get
rid of like this
all the way around it'll select that
area and then you can just basically
drag and say I want this piece of area
replacing it and if we deselect that you
can see that that has even we zoom right
in done a pretty flawless job of
replacing those hairs with the
background and there's just a little gap
here and I'm going to try using the
Healing Brush tool we're gonna see yeah
I mean that replaces it if you look very
close maybe he doesn't really make a lot
of sense but that is more than good
enough for me I'm happy with that and
and I think that's it i think we've now
looked so far because the first thing
i'm going to do is i'm going to
duplicate the background layers by
dragging it into a new layer and you can
see a background copy so that whatever
editing we now do to this image we can
turn on and off and we can get rid of
and go back to our background if we want
to now i'm gonna start by going into
filter and Camera Raw filter and this is
gonna bring up basically the same
controls that you would normally find in
Adobe Lightroom for high light contrast
color toning and is where I'm gonna do
the most of my editing for this image
I'm gonna start by turning down the
highlights because you can see around
here in a forehead it is a little bit
bright because her forehead was the part
that was closest to the actual flash I'm
literally gonna bring it down just a
little bit like that - for at most and
I'm going to bring my exposure down
now only my exposure up a little
actually I'm gonna bring my shadows down
and that's just gonna give us a slightly
more punchy contrast II look to this
shot which I quite like that there um
the whole point was really about punchy
colors and so I went for basically a red
and black color palette in here so it
very much is the Reds that were going to
be controlling now as you can see the
main thing that we can do to control
that color is in the red hue slider we
can bring it very very far to the left
all the way and we get this vibrant
fuchsia color I don't particularly like
that and it goes a bit far I do like it
being this rich red color but I'm gonna
see what it looks like going the other
way because I actually really like these
warmer almost autumnal orange tones that
we get by pushing the slider the other
way which actually wasn't what I was
going for in the beginning so I am going
to take that more into the oranges
because I think actually gives a really
nice look okay next thing I want to do
on this shot is just to make some
selective adjustments mostly to the eyes
and the lips because I just want to
brighten the eyes up a bit so I've
selected up here the adjustment brush
and I'm gonna set my exposure a little
bit we'll start off with plus 25 as you
can see from the cursor in the middle
we've got the two rings the inner ring
and the outer ring the inner ring is
where the effect will be plot will be
applied at 100% and then it will fade
and feather outwards on the outside
what that means is that you just don't
get a very hard line from where you've
applied that applied dye effect so it's
a it's about being reasonably subtle
with this I'm gonna keep that at about
plus maybe + 2015 and then if we click
new here to apply a new brush because
now what I want to do is do some work
selectively on the lips
cuz we've got some great makeup being
done on these so I just want to make
sure that they're being brought out in
just the right way so I'm just gonna
start painting over this mask at the
moment it's still set to increasing the
exposure in increasing the shadows just
because that is what we did we did
before but now once that's applied but
then we'll be able to see if you take a
look at the mask you can see exactly
where it's been applied and we can
always refine that a little bit more
later by using the arrays and just sort
of taking out here where we don't want
it where it goes a bit more onto your
face and we're gonna turn the mask off
so we can see what we're doing and the
first thing I'm gonna do is bring that
exposure back down because we don't want
these layers to be too bright we want
them to have a really dramatic punching
lip so I brought those shadows right
down which I already like the look of
I'm gonna raise the contrast up there
I'm gonna increase the whites mr. touch
and show you the highlights I'm going to
increase and bring those white back down
and I'm gonna reduce the blacks not a
lot but just by about that and clarity
at this point actually is a really great
tool for bringing out that mid-tone
contrast which for these lips is where
all the detail is coming from from the
flash giving that nice reflection on the
lipstick now as I said I'm gonna do a
little bit more word to brighten up
these eyes because as you can see there
are some nice catch lights from the
softbox that we were using but they are
getting a little bit lost because the
eyes themselves are a little bit dark so
I am going to go in now I'm going to
turn on the mask so I can see what I'm
painting
or just going to change the color of the
mask it's a green just to make it that
little bit easier to see and it turned
down that so we've got a slightly
smaller brush I do a size four and we're
just gonna paint that in here so
everywhere where the green is is where
the mask is going to be applied right on
the eye itself so using a bright color
like green for the mass doesn't make it
as very easy to see where that mask is
actually going to be applied and we turn
the mask off now we can start doing our
edits so as before the previous edits
were applied which we don't want what I
want to do is use exposure to brighten
up those eyes and brighten up those
shadows because those shadows are
affecting the middle of the eye where
some of the color is so I'm actually
going to boost that as much as I can and
I'm gonna keep those highlights down a
little bit because I want to bring the
exposure at more to try and bring out
some of the color in those eyes which as
you can see I'm doing that but by
bringing down the highlights just
balancing the amount of light that's
coming up in the whites of the eye
stopping those being too overblown and
we're going to carry on bringing the
exposure up a bit more say there I'm
gonna hit booster contrast
take down black slightly with the whites
I mean it actually that's way too much
way too much so we're gonna bring that
right back down so I'm quite happy with
that actually and then I'm gonna go on
new now we're gonna go back in and just
do a little bit more on the lips because
I really feel that I can make these a
bit punchier and I'm gonna reset
everything so I'm gonna bring up the
exposure the contrast
the highlights reduce the shadows and
I'm gonna have the clarity again so just
going to paint this in she's gonna
reduce that exposure again and what I do
like to do when I'm doing some editing
is just to kind of play with the sliders
up and down and still see what look you
can achieve if you go too far in any
direction then you get sort of
disgusting
various errors and I don't really want
that I mean I am going higher than I
normally work but again we're going for
quite a specific look here okay so now
those have been applied and as you can
see we've gone again a very definite
look to our image we've gone for these
warmer or terminal tones we brought out
more detail in the lips but brought out
more detail than the eye we've got some
color here carrying on taking out any of
the blemishes and areas of the makeup
and we've just sort of tidied up with
the hair a little bit I'm already really
happy with how this image looked so
there's a few more things that I want to
try and before I call it a day so I want
to use the gradient tool this is a
darken slightly the bottom of the neck
where the feathers are and around the
shoulders hopefully drawing the eye a
bit more to the face but I just want to
do that quite subtly so I don't wanted a
big gradient just enough that we just
did there by dragging up just getting a
bit of Darkness there pretend that layer
on and off we can see what that's done
it's not a huge amount but I think it
just makes a lot of difference in
bringing the eye more towards the middle
of the image okay so if we take a look
at the original image that we imported
and then we go from there and we go back
there is an easy way
and take a look at what I've achieved
I'm really pleased with how this image
is looking it's the colors are less
punchy than when we started obviously we
don't have that rich vibrant red but I
really like the more subtle tones that
we have the warmer tones so I'm really
pleased with what we've what we've
achieved that's pretty much as much as I
wanted to do I'm really happy with this
there may be a few more tweaks that I'm
going to do in in post but it will take
a little bit longer but that's just a
really good overview of the sort of
steps that I would take to get an image
to this point and again if you're doing
this yourself and you can spend much
more time in cleaning up and making sure
that everything's in its rightful at
vinz right place but the thing that I
like most when using Photoshop and and
Adobe Lightroom is just playing around
particularly if you don't have a very
definite idea of what it is you want to
achieve then just experimenting with
different things you can always go back
to a previous version if you want
there's no there's no reason to only
have one image you can try different
styles try different effects and see
what you get from this and as long as
you're not pushing any particular effect
too far then you can get some really
interesting looks but for now I think
I'm done with this image I'm really
pleased and I'm looking forward to
seeing what we can get with the rest so
considering I was completely out of my
comfort zone doing fashion rather than
products I am really really pleased with
what we've been able to achieve I think
I'll make about as emily has done a
really tremendous job in helping get the
look that I had in mind I really like
the soft light I love the tones in the
image and I really really love the
amount of detail that this thing can
capture so hopefully there's been an
interesting and helpful insight into
some of the work that goes into putting
on a fashion shoot just like this there
is plenty more coming up in behind the
shot so do make sure to LIKE and
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