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I tried surfing Kelly Slater's crazy wave

2018-10-02
good morning it's Monday and I am in probably the best office in the world come with me this you've Kelly Slater sir French when you think of wave falls you probably picture something pretty small at a waterpark but this place it is next level it's where world champion surfer Kelly Slater has built the perfect wave this ranch is nowhere near the ocean it's actually a hundred miles from the Pacific in a small town called Lemar in California this wave pool is 700 yards or 640 meters in length in fact it's so long they even have to have golf carts to get from one end to the other okay so here's kind of a cheat sheet on how this all works so there's a control tower behind me that's where all of the magic happens and they are radioing back and forth between the person on the jetski carrying the surfers and they can determine exactly kind of how they want the wave to behave if they want it to be an intermediate level if they wanted to be beginners for someone like me and then the magic happens they press all the buttons and then that blue machine is the hydrofoil that's dragged along and it creates the wave the pool is pretty shallow when there's no wave so you can stand up it's a concrete base with different contours so the waves change shape as they travel down the lake surfers can ride the wave for around 45 seconds and you only have to wait another 4 to 5 minutes before a new wave comes through so Kelly I am so pumped to be at the surf ranch today thanks for having me me too thank you so how does the wave actually get generated like what's the technology the technology is a foil shape that goes through the water and for people don't know what a foil is it's basically a really inefficient boat hull so the idea between behind most boats is make that thing plane as quick as possible and not push any water or is the opposite it's like we don't want it to be planing or lifting we want it to just be pushing water so it's all that force getting pushed directly into the wave I think something like 90 plus percent of the energy that's pulling the mechanism goes directly into the swell that's created so it's it's a you know it's just a more and more energy you put it in the bigger stronger wave you get so what's the characteristic of this wave the idea was to make what's called a solitary wave or a salt on the that's where you get into a kind of scientific terms and what differentiates different waves in different technologies so ours is based essentially as well and the ocean surfers we call it ground swell and so if a storm makes a swell here and it sends it 5,000 miles it doesn't really lose any energy so that's what a Salton is so Kelly I am a really bad Australian and I've never surfed before I know how to look in your face it's it's a shock I know I might leave right now but someone that's never surfed like how easy or how hot is this we can tone the wave right down we can we cover a small little wave and we you know we have people who know which board you should be on and how to kind of ride with you and help you ultimately like the best the top pros and stuff they're all riding it basically as little amount of foam as they can for the most part before my group of rookies tries to serve Kelly shows us how it's done already suited off those two but my foot okay now I'm gonna learn how to serve get a lesson before I go in some of the beginners got it pretty quickly I on the other hand yeah okay I need some help Wow okay that was that was insane so I guess like cool it away I couldn't really stand up but it was it was really intense I could feel the force of the wave behind me I feel like it's so much easier on land and you're like yeah I got it I got it and then you get on the wave and it just all goes out the window but that was unreal I'll sue surveys with moments I don't think I'm gonna be the next Kelly Slater but even though I only got to try and ride full waves it was still an awesome experience and I definitely feel more confident in taking on some real waves in the ocean thanks so much for watching make sure you give it a thumbs subscribe and wait for this way it's pretty open sir absolutely
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