Living the Vanlife fantasy: 2,600 miles across Europe in a VW camper
Living the Vanlife fantasy: 2,600 miles across Europe in a VW camper
2018-12-07
is there anything more appealing to a
person of nomadic sensibilities than a
set of wheels an open road and no fixed
plans search van life on Instagram and
you'll find no shortage of beautiful
travel pics but do these glossy images
capture the reality of a road trip to
find out whether van life lives up to
the hype
we took a 20-18 VW camper on an epic
two-week 2600 mile road trip across
Europe heading first to Slovenia via
Austria before dipping down into
Croatia's history and peninsula popping
up into the Italian Dolomites and
meandering home to the UK via Bavaria
and Germany's Moselle Valley the journey
was a steep learning curve an
unforgettable adventure and never-ending
quest to find that perfect light join us
as we find out what it's really like to
live the van life dream the first leg of
driving was a big one an 800 mile 15
hour stint from London across France
into Germany and finally to Austria
getting a huge chunk of miles out of the
way at once gave us more time to spend
later cruising around the areas we were
most keen to see
about 10 to 12 we set up before o'clock
this morning so has been a long day but
believe here is a place for toilet stop
and of course to fill the kettle up with
some water so we can make a coffee which
means I get to actually use the gas
burners which I find very very exciting
to do in a car
step one actually was trying to get the
thing hooked up because I couldn't
really figure it out and I'm always a
bit scared about using gas in case well
in case it explodes and I get covered in
fire and all that but it has worked we
have got boiling water I do have my
arrow press and a nice fresh bag of
coffee which means I get to make lovely
fresh delicious coffee in the outside in
the van which I find amazing
CNET mark of course having arrived at
our first stop in the beautiful Austrian
mountains we hit our first snag
amenda shoving it in the hole how many
times have you done it so far is there
any way of telling when it's full with
our water tank full it was time for a
much needed sleep but even that wasn't
problem-free we had a good first night's
sleep the only problem is that we did
find it little interrupted by the car
alarm going off now it turned out that
we locked the car by pressing the lock
button on the keys which we thought fair
enough I hit unlock the car turns out
that also activates the alarm and there
are motion sensors inside so as soon as
we moved anywhere the alarm went off
very loudly at night I don't imagine we
were particularly popular but it turned
out there's a button on the dashboard
that you need to press which locks it
but doesn't activate the alarm good
lesson to learn so putting the roof down
is fairly easy because if we have a look
up here see we've got the bed bit up on
these rods so if you call these Pistons
I don't know I'm not very technical
surprisingly for a tech journalist we
pulled the bed down here there we go
you see the sheets is all crumpled
because how we sleep to make sure that
these window panels are all closed and
then I move around to the driver seat
and I find the keys
they found the keys the keys the keys
Katie where are the keys here hiding
behind my camera okay
you do need the ignition on to do this
say we'll go down now up here we have
this panel and it tells me roof open I
know it's open that's why I'm closing it
pop-up roof
close by pressing holes
but Dan yes find open no yes
fine carry on
and it's closes in
between two crystal meth
Noah never stops making a different sign
that
let go and you're done then all we do
because obviously they still look pretty
messy is pour this across ready all day
cool with the roof closed and our body's
full of bacon and coffee we hit the road
for a few hours of cruising through
Austria and into Slovenia with the
mountains and rolling countryside all
around us we were pretty sure we'd
already found the photographic gold
every corner we turned in every village
we passed through provided yet another
stunning scene to take in as we plunged
deeper into Slovenia the views only
became more dramatic Judas found this
wooden rickety suspension bridge a sort
of thing you'd expect to see in a bad
film and the worst thing about it as
well is that
and actually wobbles a move which is
a little disconcerting when you're
crossing
a river here's a lovely River a little
bit of road here but necessarily
anticipate this okay I think I've had
enough of that now I'd like some solid
ground please well we've had the second
night which means this is the second
morning that makes sense
we had no alarm troubles thankfully
because we actually not knew how to lock
the van properly as you can see sort of
the parts in this wooded bit other
campsite that we found in Slovenia the
great thing is how close we are
to the lovely River which latency is
clear and blue she can't see too well
for trust me is clear and my bleep
it's a gorgeous spot and the men that we
get to listen to the river all night and
wake up and make coffee and it's great
the lands been super comfortable as you
can see we've plugged into the electric
point over there so that we can have a
light side and charge divide sitters and
the fridge has been up coming Hadley
boiling up sitting underneath the awning
last night which is really nice
but being River adjacent wasn't just
good for relaxing Sylvania socha River
is crystal-clear and cuts its way
through the stunning landscape making it
a haven for watery thrill-seekers
the water was truly amazing
but once we dry it off we had to make
our way to Slovenia's famous lake bled
so we're at like bled now which is one
of the most photographed spots in all
the Slovenia is probably the first image
that will come up if you just google
Slovenia in fact I think this particular
island with the church on it is one of
these screen savers of a new Apple TV
it's just a gorgeous spot photograph to
death
problem is that we've come here and if
we take a closer look oh yes completely
covered in scaffolding which does
somewhat ruin the ambience so we're
shooting away anyway and trying to get
some sort of cool nice-looking shots
from different areas around the lake and
as you see the lights great and we've
got beautiful clouds overhead but it is
marred somewhat by the church that looks
a little gross right now whether or not
I decided to Photoshop some of the
scaffolding out later I don't know I
might not be bothered but it is a little
disappointing what do we do when the
odds are against us no we go home and
cry by this point we'd realized our
kitchen supplies were slightly lacking
we did pack many of the absolute
essentials on this trip such as washing
up liquid but neglected to bring any
sponges because we're idiots so instead
I'm using an antibacterial surface wipe
as a sponge not entirely sure if that is
healthy but we haven't died yet so
it's fine we need a new system it's a
great game though washing up done we hit
the road with a beautiful blue sky
overhead we had a lot of ground to cover
across the heart of Slovenia and as we
drove further into the country the
motorways and main roads gave way to
single track paths through forests
winding mountain passes flanked by
cattle and long sweeping ribbons of
tarmac that gently curved across the
pretty rural landscape
although the roads were narrow the van
was still easy to maneuver it was
comfortable to drive and because it's an
automatic all we had to do was point it
in the right direction and sit back and
enjoy the ride because we had our
accommodation with us there was no rush
to get to a hotel for a particular
check-in time that gave us the freedom
to take a winding route over the next
few days cruising through the
countryside enjoying the slower pace as
we picked our way through the hillside
villages
our route Tucker's through the charming
town of de pavo surrounded by
picturesque vineyards to cruise through
and with its tight winding streets the
parlor was classic of many of the towns
and villages we passed through in
Slovenia
the hills were dotted with old villages
each of which provided plenty of
opportunity to snag some nice photos
not to mention opportunities to stock up
on farm-fresh local olive oil and wine
we've arrived in Croatia now in this
small town the name of which I forget
but it is very similar to what I know of
Tuscany in Italy the vineyards rolling
green hills lovely old buildings -
gorgeous little spot to explore and
certainly this view here's a shot I
really want to get
the narrow streets of the old villages
and the snaking Hill roads weren't
always easy cruising but that didn't
mean they weren't enjoyable
these are snake through the forests and
over the hills and even when we've got
these really tight hairpin bends it's
still super fun and I thought I wouldn't
really like driving this because it's a
big van and it weighs several tons
particularly we've got all our gear in
and the water tanks for their fuel tanks
for but it handles really really nicely
it's a proper sport but I want to put
your foot down you really go
it's so much fun and these rows the best
place to enjoy it particularly when the
sun's out and the sky is blue and we're
driving through Slovenia's wine region
I'm hoping to pick up maybe a case maybe
a couple of cases of their finest
produce eventually the road took us to
the Croatian coastal town of revenge
where we were met by a beautiful sunset
our time in revenge meant relaxing
instead of seeking out mountains to hike
we strolled cycled and swam along the
coast enjoyed the amazing food and wine
and even made a new friend
one of the cool things I do like are
being in this van is that while one of
us drives I get to sit back here and
I've created my little editing
workstation I've got the table up and
I'm backing up all my photos and videos
so far to this WD my passport
Wireless I'm pulling all the footage on
my truck from my there is SD cards from
my camera from the GoPros everything is
being backed up at the moment I do get a
little bit trouble stick if I try and do
too much I'm probably not gonna be full
edits right now but basically just
transferring all over the data so that I
can keep on shooting when we get to the
Dolomites later today I think we've got
about on about 5 hours of driving four
hours probably about that what something
like that I'm also I am fully belted in
here so it was a totally legal I'm being
safe view of this
so that's quite nice our journey into
the Dolomites in Italy signaled a sharp
departure from the landscape we traveled
through so far jagged peaks and pine
forests replaced the green fields and
the higher we climbed the more narrow
and winding the roads became we'd also
said goodbye to the beautiful Croatian
sunshine and as we drove further into
the peaks the weather got worse we are
well into Italy now and we are climbing
higher and higher into the Dolomites now
the weather is all for the moment it's
cloudy it's gray it's raining I
personally think that this is what the
mountains of the Dolomites this area
it's how it lives best everything looks
super dramatic and moody all the Greens
of this like muted grey greens the way
that the clouds all hang around in like
little strands and wisps through the
trees I think it looks so cool so
cinematic
and I would love to be out hiking and
shooting but the problem is is that it
is absolutely hammering down the brain
and so we just kind of think well
do we stop now spend an hour hiking to
get absolutely drenched it then have to
dry the stuff off or hopefully just
carry on going we've only got 20 minutes
until we're at our stop see what the
weather does and then see if we can
maybe go back out some of these
locations we've saved a few map points
on Google Maps as we've been driving
through just to make sure that we know
exactly kind of where we want to go to
it the weather picks up but it's one of
the things that we are having to take
well on one hand it looks great and I
think it looks better now than it would
do with bright blue sky this empty blue
sky this is so cool
but I just cannot be bothered go there
and game absolutely soaking with right
as you can see the weather is absolutely
atrocious it is hammering down with rain
it is definitely raincoat time probably
won't be using the Sun awning on the van
but we are in the dolomites and it looks
great
I love the clouds I love the colors I
love the whole moody dramatic atmosphere
that this weather has brought what I
don't like is that I get drenched on my
gear gets drenched every time I leave
the van so why I'm hoping that the rain
stops but maybe some of the clouds stays
but eventually we made it into the heart
of the mountains among the jagged peaks
of the Dolomites so there's the refugio
iran's as where we've just been so get
prepared walking basically come around
so i'm already planning on coming back
even in whether it's bloody dramatic and
here's what you get with a bit of
patience and perseverance
this guy's clear astern opens up to
catch some of these rocks give us his
gorgeous rainbow i know how to sprint up
to try and find a good spot before the
clouds come back but we've got some good
stuff my patience in waiting for the
clouds to pass were really paid off with
this amazing rainbow but my evening
wasn't done yet so right now as you can
see it's pretty much completely dark out
here all over the mountains dark and
back the way i came pretty much
completely dark but the refuge is still
has its lights on i'm sure a little bit
light on the outside which i think looks
pretty cool can't see at all on this
phone of course but by using a longer
shutter speed we can bring out a lot
more of that light and you probably
can't tell very well here and as I do
that there's a lot of different colors
in that sky blues and pinks and the
refuge itself has come out really nicely
the mountains have put it on a great
display but there was still more that we
hope to see you can see obviously very
little due to the lights because it's
dark it's actually almost midnight and
my alarm sadly is set for 3:30 a.m. so
that gives me the best three and a half
hours sleep and that's if I fall asleep
immediately which
I tend not to the reason is is because
sunrises at about 5:00 to 5:30 and we
want to hike was about an hour's hike to
a location that we want to find so even
if we leave at 3:30 we're getting there
for about 4:30 to more like Worcester 5
and then we need to find like a good
location and get ready for when sunset
really kicks off so it's an early start
but hopefully back here by maybe 8:00
and probably have a couple of hours
sleep then but it's definitely good
night for now it's house you can vaguely
see it is just starting to get a bit
lighter still be my head torch lighting
the way ahead but it looks like the
clouds are clearing a bit I think we
could be in for an absolutely cracking
sunset sunrise that's right it's early I
haven't slept I don't remember which
ones which I've been hiking for prod
about an hour now it's pretty tough
going because the altitude means it's
quite tough to take proper breaths now
going very light and I'm still not at
the spot I want to be a little nervous
that I've taken too long to get here as
you can see we've got some lovely light
over there and those guys themselves are
just ready to be lit up
how to carry on after a long hike we are
finally in position waiting for that
glorious sunrise to erupt and shroud the
landscape in beautiful golden light
except that it didn't there was no
direction to this light no contrast on
the rocks and no beautiful golden hues
our shots were flat and dull and not
even a coffee in the mountain Refugio
Locatelli
did much to help our moods but again a
bit of patience made all the difference
as it wasn't long before some direction
to the light brought out some great
shadows and contrasts on the mountains
letting his capture more of the shots we
really wanted
our hike back down in the daylight was
certainly easier and a lot more
enjoyable as we really could soak in
what has to be some of the most dramatic
scenery found on the planet with more to
be found further down so come to this
absolutely gorgeous place as you can see
beautiful this gorgeous old boathouse
here the trees in the background and the
mountain here that's just catching the
last of the evening light I want the
tops there and of course some lovely
blue sky above it now to capture this
I've got my camera on the tripod I've
got a circular polarizer on the top and
I'm probably going to be doing a blend
of two exposures this one which is as
you can see rather overexposed with a
five second exposure
we go in order to get enough detail in
the boathouse and the trees and then I'm
going to do one which is a little bit
under at 1.6 seconds of money or focused
already on this in order to make sure
that we've got plenty of detail left in
the sky on the mountains and then I'll
blend the two of these together in
Lightroom or Photoshop later driving
around the Dolomites meant more narrow
paths more winding roads and a lot more
beautiful views to take in it's where
the freedom of having the van really
became apparent any road we wanted to
take we could and anytime we wanted to
stop to get some shots we could do that
too time wasn't a factor for us and it
made us feel like it was just us and the
road as we hit the 2000 mile mark on our
trip we came to our next photo stop the
stand set magdalena church nestled in
the Italian countryside we have made it
up the windy roads to Santa mad Santa
Madalena rose gold and was a very iconic
church right here basically now sort of
wanted to wait for some really good
light on it and gonna get Pete so while
we do so I've seen some really really
great shots of this place so I knew I
wanted to come but one of the few things
that I didn't really get from the photos
is the fact you're shooting up against
this electric fence this is one of the
biggest wild snails I think so as we're
shooting the lights changing the Sun is
going down
towards the right of this scene and
we're just seeing the last of the beams
coming across the field illuminating the
chapel and the trees around the base of
the mountain leaving the sky or Moody
and dark and
and this is gonna look so nice when his
head itches
our last stopping point in Italy was the
Alpha D Suzi Europe's largest alpine
meadow we hopped on the cable car to get
to the area and immediately hit the
hiking trails that crisscross their way
over the beautiful Green Valley normal
while the dark clouds added some cool
drama to the scene the heavy rain that
followed meant it wasn't long before we
returned to the van and fled across the
border to the German region of Bavaria
with the full two days to make it back
to London we were fully off piste
detouring via the vertiginous vineyards
of the Riesling producing Moselle Valley
and past another castle worthy of a
fable or two the tall turreted
charmingly timbered burg eltz it's
surprisingly hot in germany at the
moment and we're in the wine region so
I'm fairly certain that after we've done
this hike up to the castle and then back
to the van I'm going to try and drink
all of the wine I can find obviously
once we pass up and luckily having to
drive anymore and also some fine
somethig German sausages what there's no
innuendo you can possibly find there
we become used to a meandering style of
travel
the VW California played its part
perfectly
it had mean more than just a bed on
wheels for us it represented a freedom
to take our holiday and our lives in
whatever direction we wanted
unencumbered by hotel check-in times or
bus schedules we wound our way across
Europe for almost 3,000 miles detouring
when we wanted stopping to take in the
views when we wanted if the weather
sucked we could simply drive on to make
the best of our next location
we made our way back into England on the
Channel Tunnel from France and as we
drove the final road back to London we
both agreed it was exactly that
flexibility to made this trip so
enjoyable not having to abide by
anyone's timeframe but our own made us
masters of our own destiny and utter
feeling we won't soon forget and
certainly we can't wait to take our next
van life adventure
you
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