everyone today we're taking apart one of
the most expensive r-tx 28 ET eyes on
the market and that is the RT x 2080 TI
f TW 3 by EVGA following up their
long-standing FTW three lineup of about
one generation but this one is
particularly interesting because it's
quite a bit different from the past FCW
3s the face plate has had a change for
better or worse today on how you feel
about that it's a lot fatter and the PCB
space is pretty densely populated as
you'll see when we take this apart
separately we have another video coming
up of a PCB analysis of this board by
build Zoid so make sure you subscribe to
catch that if you haven't already
subscribed so then I think it's about
1,300 plus dollars for this card let's
take it apart and see why it's so
expensive before that this video is
brought to you by thermal grizzly and
their high-end thermal compounds thermal
grizzly makes cryo not paste for high
thermal performance and conductivity
without being electrically conductive so
you don't have to worry about shorting
components Crona is particularly good
for replacing stock GPU pastes as cryo
knot is a non curing compound learn more
at the link in the description below so
for the board layout pretty
straightforward three fan cooler I think
there is an IC X version of one of these
but I don't know if this is one of them
will will find out though as we get into
it and then it's got a BIOS which for a
normal and OC mode it does default into
normal mode and will just flip that over
so you can read the text on it
normal OC they even oriented it
correctly so that in a normal case you
can read it that's kind of small
attention to detail this over here 12
volt GRB header so that corresponds to
the pin out for obviously an RGB header
so you plug this into a system right
there and synchronize the LEDs with
other strips of LEDs in your case if you
wanted to if that's the kind of thing
you're into and then also over there
there's an auxiliary auxiliary fan plug
which is right around there it's a four
pin PWM plug so you can attach a fan to
it and then slave that fan to the GPU if
you wanted to increase or decrease the
speed based on the video cards
temperatures the cooler is
obviously very fat in a large part of
the cost of high-end cards like this
there's about a 2.75 to three slits a
full three slot this is yeah this is
basically a full three slot card so it's
2.75 for the thickness of the shroud and
the cooler and then once you look at the
actual slot requirement it is a three
slot card so a very large card some fat
heat pipes in there as well we'll
measure those once we get into it and
tear it down so you can see five on this
side and then there might be more and
we'll look into that and then for the
power there are two eight pin connectors
so let's take it apart
this one's an EVGA device it's pretty
easy to take apart so first of all we
can remove the screw that's near the
tamper seal but it is not a warranty
void if remove its sticker so EVGA uses
that to figure out if they need to
replace the paste or not on a card let's
come back into be recertified or
something like that but they don't void
your warranty as they've told us anyway
if you stab through that sticker and
we've got four of the spring tension
screws actually these ones I'm taking
out now don't even need to come out yet
the way ebj does their mounting now it's
actually really simple
so you can just remove these four okay
that should do it yep so you remember
those four on these EVGA cards now and
you can free the entire cooler which is
actually pretty nice from an ease of
installation standpoint you see it's
completely free right now the thing
holding us back it's gonna be three
cables there so three fan cables and
then an LED cable on the other side so
we need to disconnect those you have a
piece of a throne pad here so that's how
easy it is take those off these days
four screws and once we're in there is
your that piece of throne pad goes when
we're ready to put that back let's start
with the cooler and then we'll go to the
base plate cuz that's pretty interesting
to some of the cooler they are using
several heat pipes of varying sizes
which we can measure these are about ten
millimeter pipes these flat ones right
here
there's larger ones are see ten
millimeters up towards this side of the
device and then that's gonna be ten
that's an eight eight millimeter pipe on
that one so eight and ten for the most
part with a couple of smaller ones in
here and if you look at them there's
actually a lot of a lot going on so
through the board left side of the
heatsink where the vrm is situated we've
got one heat pipe going straight through
the cold plate this doesn't contact the
GPU ever and I don't believe it comes
into contact with the memory no
definitely well I'm gonna go with them
now on that doesn't come into contact
with the memory there's actually kind of
obvious because that pipe is situated
under the two screw holes and those two
screw holes are gonna be where it mounts
to the no-go the keep out zone for SM DS
so that doesn't cover anything it just
kind of goes into the plate and might
provide some additional sinking power
what really matters is the coverage of
heat pipes over the GPU itself and so
for that they've got this fat one this
ten mil goes through there that
continues through the vrm side of the
heatsink there's this smaller pipe which
looks like it is this one so that goes
right through the core as well this
smaller pipe goes through the proto of
the core and this one does not and then
for the rest that's small heat pipe
actually that one continues where does
this one go
this one goes through the other edge of
the core and that continues through most
of the heat sink as well terminating
right here whereas the others terminate
over here so a bit of a difference on
where those heat pipes end for the fin
stack so this has done a few different
ways EVGA has got three types of fins
they're using primarily they have the
l-shaped fins which are right here so
you can find these on a lot of cards
where typically you want to provide more
surface area to something for example
providing some surface area
- the heat pipes so that allows these to
contact the fins Foley
they are typically soldered to the fins
and that allows for better heat transfer
into the fins so that as these heat
pipes these if you don't know these use
a capillary action and phase change so
there's a liquid in there it goes
through a phase change as it hits the
hot area the core so phase change from
liquid to a gas you lose a lot of energy
there or you lose a lot of heat there in
the form of energy in that phase change
process and then as it phase changes
into a gas it will sort of translate up
this heat pipe to the end where it then
reconned ences at the end and and will
trickle back down through capillary
action at which point it can be recycled
so connecting the heat pipe to these
l-shaped spins gives a bit more surface
area and that heat can better dissipate
into the large aluminum fin stack from
the cabra heat pipe which makes better
overall use of the materials on the
surface there are also the flat
90-degree fins where there's no bend at
all these are useful for allowing more
airflow through the fins so you see
those over on this side of the board
primarily where really all that all it's
doing is allowing the air to go through
and hit the baseplate
on the board which is aligned right
there so it hits the baseplate provide
some cooling over some of the MOSFETs
over here or sorry the inductors over
here and then the the primary inductor
line and MOSFETs are contacting these
sort of 45 degree angle fins and those
allow air to get through while still
providing some additional contact area
once it squishes into a thermal pad so
that's the strategy behind the three
types of fins you see here and then the
this stuff in the middle is just a brace
where it's all connected there's sort of
inter woven so they come together if you
take it apart they almost count apart
like a zipper and that's that covers
those these are are color-coded
primarily for internal use I think so
they've got some markings on the sides
of the fan headers not something you
need to worry about and then there's
your LED cable down there
as for the fan so the fan down in there
is a power logic fan we actually
interviewed them previously or while we
we spoke with them at Computex in Taiwan
this year and the way I know it's parrot
logic fan is because the sticker down
there says para logic and whether or not
the camera can see it it's a it's para
logic fan it is a brushless DC motor of
course and I don't know any of the other
specs on it but if you were curious of
what the model number is let me take
this away from the camera the model
number is C 12 volts is 0.55 amps so
that's useful model is PLD 0 9 - 2 0 s 1
2 H if you wanted to look one up to buy
or something like that I think that
covers most of the cooler sort of
disassembling it I guess there's one
more thing talk about these these holes
through here so this started with icx on
EVGA cards following a CX and the idea
is just to allow some more air to flow
through the internals of the fin stack
and escape out on this side of the card
of the fin stack so a bit more air flow
changes the surface area characteristics
as well and presumably helps in theory
it helps is just that a theory isn't
always reality depending on how small of
a change it is and then here's the base
plate so for this one you've got the
sort of what is this this aluminum that
might be a steel might be a steel
material but it is not a shiny material
so that's good it's more of a matte
finish so anyway this is a metal service
that raises off of the aluminum it might
be a steel we'll check with them for the
review and update as necessary so anyway
this comes into contact with the fin
stack with those 45 degree angle fins
you've got your inductor line here and
then the MOSFETs are under this part of
the plate so they've got good good
thermal contact to the plate via thermal
pad which then conducts into the fin
stack
and the capacitor banks not even really
covered with any direct contact it's
just getting pure airflow which is
plenty for caps because they just need
to stay under like 100 degrees or so 105
or 85 to the pound the cap spec but
typically 105 C is definitely where you
want to be below so those are fine with
just airflow and the rest of the plate
is smooth aluminum brushed aluminum
finish so they do not have the pin fins
as they call them on this they instead
went with a fatter aluminum heatsink
rather than taking up more area with the
pin fins so at this point let's remove
the base plate to look at the rest of
this and to do that we need to take off
those take out the screws in the back
that I started on earlier okay that's a
lot of screws there are three movies
three more screws to take out hiding in
here so for this thing you can see that
the base plate here has this metal sheet
that comes up and that connects to the
expansion slot right there and then
three screws in there from the backside
and that holds down the plate onto the
PCB so we still need to take those out
so this is where it gets a little
interesting this one I already took
apart for photos for build Zoid so we
already have that on the way and that
means I was prepared for what you're
gonna see it's a bit funny a bit
different
we've done some baseline thermals on
this already but need to attach
thermocouples to the MOSFETs like
normally for more in-depth testing that
becomes a bit tricky with this one but
fortunately I already know what this
compound is so I can get more of it
easily and replace it as necessary
because what you're seeing here rather
than the usual thermal pad for a
connection between the plate and the
inductors EVGA is using this stuff this
is a you can see it's kind of sticky but
not not liquidy like thermal paste this
is called thermal putty it's a little
under it's like 1.5 watts per meter
Kelvin something like that we have the
datasheet for it it's all in Chinese but
we have the datasheet for it like
understand the numbers on it so we're
gonna try and get some of the stuff just
for future a be testing cause it'd be
kind of interesting so that's a bit
different and then also interesting is
although not that interesting these days
is the use of a heat pipe under this
thermal pad not that uncommon but there
you go
just not a copper heat pipe there and
that connects with the MOSFETs so that
provides some additional cooling
capabilities in theory to allow the
MOSFETs to communicate their energy into
the fin stack more efficiently so we
have some of the thermal putty spill
over here I already have baseline
thermals and then we'll run more with
our thermocouples attached later and
replace as necessary for the MOSFETs
we're ready we're setting all this
information have already sent all this
information to build Zoid so I'm going
to save that for him but we do have our
actually kind of sweet new magnifying
glass that Intel sent for their
architecture event we've been making
real use of it this is the most useful
media clips we've gotten in a while and
some of the parts on here that builds I
will be walking you through the
significance of and again subscribe if
you want to catch that if you already
know that what they do we have a up9 5 1
2 P over here and on semi four five four
nine one the MOSFETs are also on semi
those are 31 70s
looks like everywhere and these MOSFETs
over here on the left side of the VR I'm
kind of unique these are 31 70s as well
there's the memory VR M so this they
made this really easy for us you can see
on this one that these are 22 inductors
these all correspond with V core v RM so
you can almost draw a line here at the
screwdriver for the memory v RM where
you've got another three phases up there
and then you have if we're just counting
inductors you've got it
two four six eight ten and then there's
more over here so another two four six
in addition to that and build Zoids
gonna walk through the layout of this
somewhat complex and interesting vrm so
I'm gonna leave that part to him but on
the back side we have a couple more
components as well and the very least it
allows this the CRM design allows for
spreading out the vrm heat over a very
large area basically the entire PCB
which ultimately means more efficiency
and getting rid of that heat all right
so an EVGA style throne pads all over
the back and actually putting the
backplate to use so if you have EVGA
cards you know the back plates get
pretty hot it's actually good thing
because it means it's doing what it's
supposed to do you want metal things to
get hot because it means it's pulling
heat away from things that you don't
want to be hot so those have their old
pads for back of the socket for the
memory right there and then for the
whole back of the primary v core v RM +
vm v RM and then there are a couple more
components on here I'll walk you through
that again build Zords gonna talk in
detail on but another you p95 12p u p7
five six one zero another one of them
and another one of them it's like three
of those something like that or more and
that covers most of the board components
so we'll leave the rest of that analysis
to build Zoids end well I took the
cooler analysis for you so that's EVGA
is FCW 3 card couple more things on here
there is a 1 million ountry sister over
here near the RGB cables or pin out
there's a 5,000,000 unresisted down here
and then there's a another 5 million
ohms shunt resistor over here and then
one more 5 milli ohm shunt resistor on
the back and that one is over here which
those positions are important if you
wanted to do a shunt mod on this and
short them as for higher power limits
and overclocking or something one of
those will correspond to the PCIe slot
just take a DMM and do a resistance a
continuity check like
the 8-pin 12-volt lines to see which
shunt resistors correspond to the
12-volt pins because that's what you
want to pull in you want to pull in more
power through the PCU slot that's bad so
that'd be how you do that but that
covers EVGA FTW three we'll have a full
review at some point we have built joins
analysis coming up as well so again
subscribe for that one subscribe for the
full review and make sure you don't
double subscribe though because then
you'll end up unsubscribe so you can
triple subscribe if you want
so subscribe for more or don't depending
on if you have already done so and you
got a store that guarantees access
dinettes become a mod matt like the one
i worked on during this video or a shirt
like the one I'm wearing thank you for
watching I'll see you all next time
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.