Gadgetory

we just got our Radeon uh Vega frontier Edition Cardon which is a pro targeted card that precedes the launch of our X Vega the gaming targeted card already run us through a few initial tests and now we're going to tear it down and show you what the inside looks like go through the cooling solution and then we'll have a PCB vrm analysis from build Zoid going up within the next 48 hours if not sooner so for this card it was $1,000 we bought it ourselves and II did not sample this one too many media if any media and that means that this is brought to you by our patreon backers who have helped when we need to buy samples ourselves so you go to patreon.com/scishow and acces if you'd like to help us out directly or store doc gamers nexus dotnet if you like this coverage and want to support our independent journalism so started with the card on the outside it is and what looks like an anodized aluminum finish and it is a unibody bent finish over the top and on the back the card is actually still quite warm because it just got done with something our whole testing what's the stock thermal paste on there so we have numbers for that already but not sharing them just yet that'll come soon enough it does seem like the body of the card acts as somewhat of a heatsink though so you'd probably want some airflow directed on the card to dissipate some of that heat that is accumulated in the shell but we'll go through the internals in a moment I haven't actually seen it yet big blower fan on the end this goes up to forty nine hundred rpm and it seems to sit in the 40 to 50 percent range for its RPM when it's under a heavier workload like blender or something that we're having trouble getting that to complete without crashing but again that will come to review back side you've got the aluminum backplate with giant support structure for the cooler and then the Vega logo but we can just start tearing it down at this point so the only thing left is rear i/o and that's all pretty standard so let's start with removing the backplate or the screws in the back plate anyway we've got an LED here that has only two indicators on/off and then on the other side red and blue and then we have a GPU tachometer which shows the GPU load these screws look to be which size is this TR six size so we've got a torque 6 size for these let's say warranty boy from youth and don't do that and there are one two three four five six of these alright so that was easy enough there's your back plate there are no thermal pads on it these are bumpers to prevent vibration of the back plate against the PCB and also to prevent contact although these one is millimeters standoffs do a good job of preventing any potential contact anyway so you won't be shorting anything and I believe this is anodized anyway but that's the that's back plate easy enough so 6t are six screws and I haven't actually taken this apart yet so I'm lining this with you now we have Phillips Phillips all Phillips it looks like and TR what are these five TR five up here for that part of the shroud that might not need to come out maybe it's four LEDs and then we have Phillips heads in the back so I'm going to get an anti-static wrist strap on just because we need this card and bought it ourselves so it matters this time okay so we've got an anti-static wrist strap on these aren't 100% necessary but we've got a grounded mat and no need for a very stupid reason to kill the card which would be static electricity so we've eliminated that from this part and this is plug straight into the ground as well so that's all good these Phillips heads are a pH zero one size with the iFixit kit that we're using I'm just going to kind of hit all of them about half way and then go through the rest actually you know what what I'm going to do instead is remove the four for the GPU because a lot of the time these are connected directly into the only part that actually needs to be remove them and the rest are just for some base plate or something okay okay there's the retention kit the screws are stuck in there so that's different from the GTX cards we see most often and let's get these out of there now these probably hold the plate in the 40 spots against the rest of their tension for the GPU does it come off no asbestos pecked that these three might be for the ERM fan so we're going to leave that off or leave those on until the very last moment that's the compromising okay okay so let's get we're going to just go ahead and take these out place permanent barcode and serial number or product label here oops they've got that one and like I said this is the first time we're taking this apart so it may well be the case that some of these screws do not need to be removed oh there's a hidden screw it there to get the card to release the shroud but it is it is easier to just kind of take them all out if you haven't done it before so you can prevent any damage from prying at things all right that's everything is feeling pretty loose now another screw on this side right here sure what's holding us in the fan is at least by the way so those three are for the fan which means that you don't have to take them off but that's fine hmm I don't see any okay it might be an unnecessary step but just to eliminate something kinda dumb we're going to take these out oh that's looking promising by the way on the front side of this card there are a couple screw holes as well that are unused presently I'm not sure if there will be partner models of this version of the card that might be why those would be there but these right here we've seen them on plenty of cards in the past but oh there we go okay so the secret is to take all the outer screws out I think we actually jumped the gun a bit this shell you can get off just by pulling the tr-5 screws these ones right here out of the side of the body at which point you're you'll release the shell and then we're just connected by a an LED cable down there it'll deal with momentarily so here's everything's going to be loose because I've taken all the screws out so giant blower fan like I said this is this is one of the bigger ones you've seen it also has a pretty high RPM it's got I'm not sure if that's aluminum or not but got the we finish on the middle I can see the chokes already two of them we're going to disconnect the fan early in this process okay cut that out safely okay large aluminum thin stack on top of a copper plate underneath how do I release this or is it already released it was that a bio switch can you get a close on that one that might be a bio switch I'm thinking so that's a BIOS toggle on a reference card that's kind of neat it is a thousand-dollar reference card but still would be kind of neat I believe it might be but I'm not positive a bill died we'll have that answer for you definitively in his coverage on our channel so this aluminum sink is oh I was just about to say it's a it's definitely not soldered on because I could see the paste and I could see the pace starting to spread out the sides of it but it was basically glue okay so huge die we're going to measure that for you in a second I know that's been a big question for everyone let's get rid of this fan so for my own reference the fan cables going through the square-ish rectangle hole that's going to be the bottom right of the card so that'll be good for reference move that to the side move that to the side okay so where are our thermal pads oh that's right this is a HBM you know it's been a while since I've looked at an HB M card so for a moment I was like where where's the beer am why have my seen inductors everywhere that's why it's HBM to but it's been so long since I've seen an HB M card opened the P reacts being the last one that took me a minute so we've got into the inductors are contacting through thermal pads to an aluminum base plate this matte black plate is aluminum and we've got a small thin stack over here through which air will go from the blower fan mounts right here and that stack is at the back of the card on top of the display port out so that's going to heatsink that the i/o and also just help spread heat in general from the area we've got kind of a ramp up here which is probably for either acoustics or airflow direction reasons certainly not for aesthetics because you're never going to see that part of the card this is fairly standard this keeps all the air blowing in a tunnel like effect that direction don't need to cool this side of the card so it is left uncooled directly by the fan but then is a squirrel page scroll cage ie blower fan and does it have any information 12 volt 2 point 4 amps nothing special Delta electronics and it does go to 4900 rpm in our initial testing so there's the fan and there's this base plate these contacts these inductors so inductor contact there and then is that inductor contact it oh let's see a wrong way that might that's actually the MOSFETs okay so fats and doctors and then some breathing it looks like for the caps okay so let's move this to the side we've got that inside of the shell nothing special there's an LED board PCB for the LED that's here and also here that's all that is so that can be moved aside as well so look at this part aluminum fin stack flat fins on the top makes sense you don't need any ventilation from the top so if they can trap it and allow the air to get forced that direction out the back of the case and all the better you can see some of the fin density and pitch here then pitch is standard 90 degrees then density is is also fairly average looking underside so the underside is a copper base plate with a copper protrusion this is all one piece of copper the protrusion is contact and actually you can see the imprint before I wipe it off there's an imprint of the HBM right there and right there so we can see the HBM stacks and then here's the actual die stack right there and that's contacting the GPU proper with these going through the backside now what is this little protrusion for I wonder is it basically a tiny tiny heat pipe or what just go like this I guess I can look at the imprints yes this goes like this okay that looks like the world's tiniest heat pipe over there or something or just a manufacturing imperfection I'm actually not not sure but we'll we'll get the snail-pace now off of the card and look at the rest of the important stuff I think that is actually that is a heat pipe in fact or it's something like that so all right let's look at the card I need to get some rubbing alcohol I've already tested this thermal paste so we'll be putting our own on after it for our other standardized thermal tests then won't concrete I look at that stuff geez Andy doesn't like to put the name on the dye so this will be rather boring if that's the case again but we already know what it is anyway so all we really need to do is measure the dye and do a separate video on the power and vrm layout all right let's measure this dye no words on it so we're just going to go straight to measuring the dye and the lower two parts that's your HB m stacks right there all 16 gigabytes so 8 gigabytes per stack the HP m and then there's the actual Vega dye digital part of my digital calipers is not working try and be as accurate as I can here without not scratching or anything like that so if you zoom in down where the calipers are touching dye and then show the millimeter reading everyone can see it's roughly 22 maybe 20 point something and now the other side so you can see there that's about 20 25 to 26 each tick is one millimeter and now for total package Heights which always interest me for modding to be a little careful with this measurement we can subtract the PCB height so it's not going to be the most accurate but it'll be close enough so our PCB is about one one millimeter thick so we're going to subtract that from the dye height this this side can be easier okay package height off of the PCB let's call it a bit extra because they can't quite touch that somewhere in that area and then for the total package size accounting the interpose we're at 30 by 30 so this is a 30 by 30 pack die this this entire width by this entire height this is 30 by 30 and then if anyone's curious just go ahead and measure the HBM 10 by 11 or 12 okay so that's all the measurements or 10 by 11 or 12 on that let's let's call it 12 on the HBM now let's let's do the mounting hole distance next for your cue liquid coin enthusiasts so we're at 60 1 2 3 4 60 4 is a square we'll find out I guess so 64 by I'm going to rotate this so everyone can see it 1 2 3 4 is that really 5 sometimes odd what's that say 1 2 3 4 that looks like 64 to me yes that's 64 question is is this also 64 64 by 64 there's your mounting hole difference if you want to liquid cool this that is the answer that's it for this one this is as bare as it gets this is the Vega card frontier edition Fe so Vega Fe we've got full benchmarks on it coming and hold on to your purchases before you see that they will give somewhat of an indication to rx Vega but it's not our X beta so we'll have to test that separately when it actually ships but that's what we have for now so you've seen the die you've got all the measurements for the mounting holes for liquid cooling you have the measurements for the die size rough measurements for the die height but don't don't go mass-produce water clocks based on those knockers and vrm is coming separately along with testing we're probably doing thermal power noise first and then gaming immediately after that so do subscribe to the channel if you are not so you can catch all that coverage as it goes live and if you want to help us out directly with this type of thing in the future please go to patreon.com/scishow in this video were suggestions from the community because they wanted to know you all wanted to know what the different dye size measurements mounting hole measurements and things like that were so we do listen to your suggestions for these and thanks for watching I'll see you all next time you