Ask GN 50: Fix EVGA Hybrid Pump Whine, Why Pascal is Volt Limited
Ask GN 50: Fix EVGA Hybrid Pump Whine, Why Pascal is Volt Limited
2017-05-13
they run we're back for another episode
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check the comment section and discord
every time for questions for the video
we have some good ones this time one
particularly about the EVGA hybrid kid
I've seen a lot of people ask this
question about the pump making - noise
we've got a solution for you on that
that's a common question and then a
couple of other interesting ones it's
about air versus liquid cooling about
why NVIDIA has moved away from
increasing voltage like they used to
allow on older cards things like that
before getting to that this content is
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of ours getting to the first question
we've got one from aundrea Busha who
says hopefully it's on the right says my
EVGA hybrid kit has horrible coil whine
nodes is it the same or it is the same
used for GN hybrids bounty' face so that
really really pulled at my heartstrings
with the frowny face there yeah so the
hybrid kits the thing really any of the
pumps that don't have variable fan or
pump rpm can produce a pump whine it's
not the most common thing at least it's
not the most common thing people
complain about because normally your fan
noise is higher than the pump noise
especially depending on the case if you
have like a foam damped case then you're
probably even better off you're less
likely to notice but that's not the best
solution the best solution is just to
not have the noise in the first place so
we don't normally hear the pump whine
noise out of the liquid coolers that
we've tested lately there are some
instances where I'll pick it up like
some of the
the older non-branded a Sutekh pumps as
they age after a year or two of abusive
use they might start making some noise
just from the pump rpm being higher but
you can lower it and that noise goes
away the same applies for the EVGA
hybrid kit the problem with that though
is that in order to lower the noise on
the the hybrid kit pump or any other
like a Seahawk they're all the same to
lower the noise on those since they are
CLC's if you recall installing it they
plug in through a basically a splitter
so the pump and the vrm fan plug into
the same cable and then that plugs into
GP power so on one of these there's one
cable for the GPU fan power it plugs in
there and that controls both the pump
and the vrm fan which would be the
circular blower fan so that means that
there's no you can't you have no access
to the RPMs through this so you have to
go into the motherboard the way to do
this there's a about a $10 cable you can
buy might be a bit less and the cable is
a very specific one on one end it's a
GPU fan header so it's I think it's a
four pin and it's that weird shape and
spacing pin spacing that the GPU fans
use it's not the same as a case fan one
end is that the other end is the normal
case fan header it's either a three or
four pin and you can plug that into the
motherboard I'll try and find a link for
it and put it in the in the description
below if I can find it but they're about
ten bucks and what you do is you'll have
to take a back part actually don't have
to take all of it apart you would take
let's see if we take this off these are
magnetic by the way so pretty easy to
install but these you know pretend
there's a pump here you would take this
part off so it's not that hard you just
unscrew these and pull that off of there
and you'll have to fight it a little bit
because you're not doing it from scratch
but then you can remove the the header
that's plugged into the board and at
that point you you can plug that into
the extender cable plug that into the
motherboard and then my suggestion is
run the
run it through DC power set it to about
90% once you have 90% the wine should be
gone that it runs slower or slow enough
comparatively that the pump line pretty
much goes away and you don't lose a ton
of cooling ability because really the
pump speed 90 versus 100% all you're
doing is changing how fast the liquid is
moving through the cold plate area so
that can impact temperatures but as
we've said in the past it's not
necessarily a huge amount certainly not
enough to care about when you're already
subbed 60 C maybe even close to 50 C or
less depending on the card you're
cooling so hopefully that helps
basically buy the cable plugged into the
motherboard set DC power to the pump to
about 90% you can go a bit lower if you
have to but just play around in that
range and find one where the noise goes
away or it's inaudible compared to your
system fan noise and then I would also
recommend either plugging the EVGA
hybrid radiator fan of the motherboard
or buying a different fan plate into the
motherboard and controlling that through
PWM or DC power as well rather than off
the video card which will run it at
higher speeds than necessary to keep a
reasonably cool temperature and then
you'll have a really damn quiet video
card it will be quiet quieter than
air-cooled cards at that point except
for perhaps idle and your vrm fan can go
back into the board power next question
is Micah Mitchell who says why were
power limits on put on the Pascal
architecture specifically it seems that
the 1080 series is amazing but the only
thing holding it back and overclocking
is the voltage limitation as a bonus how
would you speculate the overclocks
to be if there were no limits how much
the difference would it really make so
for the first part of the question
anyone who's around for Kepler and
Kepler 600 series and Fermi 400 series
you may remember that at that time there
were a lot less restrictions on voltage
so you could you could set your voltage
offset a bit higher you could well power
wasn't power wasn't all that much
different but the voltage offset was so
the thing that chains is basically too
many people we're over holding their
cards to a point where they really
shouldn't have been either because they
didn't know what they were doing or they
hadn't yet as a community figured out
what the safe voltage was for the card
so they're over vaulting it which is
somebody did for overclocking anyway
it's just a matter of how much and the
cards didn't have the the strict
protections that they have now
where now you can drive that slider up
to 100% of voltage it's not going to
kill you a card they're not going to let
you drive voltage up in any real
capacity that will damage the device in
fact you'd set at 100% run it for its
entire life and it's it'll live just as
long as if you set at 0% the reason that
it is just give a primer on Pascal first
is because when you change the voltage
permitted to Pascal and overclocking
tools it's not actually over volting it
it'll draw the same voltage as if you
left it alone all it's doing is well it
refills mostly just gives you something
and psychologically to feel like you
have an effect or what the cards doing
but I've heard some people say that it
does in creases the speed at which the
voltage is supplied to the GPU at with
the speed at which it's made ready for
use but that doesn't really change a
whole lot of them quickly ramp into
boost clocks and the difference is not
going to be that great especially if
you're gaming for more than a few
seconds anyway so that doesn't do a
whole lot but 400 series 600 series it
did a bit more especially the 400 series
and if you look around on forums what
you'll see is a whole bunch people
overclocking their Fermi or kepler cards
really high but particularly Fermi I
don't remember a - well how how far
Kepler was going but Fermi I believe I
remember that one going high regardless
one of them over volted pretty high over
clocks pretty high as a result peeled
post their numbers and then you see them
coming back some time later and they
their card it died or they had some kind
of issue as because they're revolting it
way too high at least for the the stock
configuration how people like build Zoid
the pro overclock we work with people
like him they can deal with that no
problem one they're probably testing
short period of time - they might be
using exotic cooling or just better
cooling in general and three they have a
damn good idea what they're telling the
pro overclockers so there's big
difference there between that scene and
an enthusiast so because on video
doesn't cater to the pro overclocking
scene they basically just got rid of
over vaulting in any capacity that could
damage the card which unfortunately
means that you also lose some of the
overclocking capacity so there's a bit
of a trade people like us where we're
perfectly happy to over volt it if it
means getting a higher clock we lose out
and I'm sure that's true for a lot of
you as well because you either don't
care about killing the card or if you do
you just are more careful about how much
you over volt didn't check guides and
things so you miss out you get a lower
voltage as a result but the consumer as
a whole is more protected so it's one of
those things of how much do you need the
company to protect you from your own
stupidity versus how much how are you
willing to take responsibility for it if
you go a step too far and then video
decided to protect the customers from
their own stupidity so that's what
that's largely why those voltage
limitations exist now and if you look
around there's really not a lot of over
voltage to death
stories about Pascal they probably die
from something else instead like a bad
component somewhere so I think that
covers that how much of a difference
would it make you're asking if this were
not a thin we've been looking into this
so I'm not going any promises not sure
when we can do this but build Zoid has
talked a bit on our channel about doing
shunt mods where you you short the
shunts out with liquid metal you could
solder them but it's safer to do liquid
metal and there's really tiny shunts on
the side of the node on the right side
of the card near the pin out and you can
short those with liquid metal in theory
that screws up the voltage and power
detection on Pascal GP is enough where
you can actually get some extra power
out of it beyond what it would normally
allow you to do so that's something
we're looking into
no promises on if or when it will happen
but theoretically you could look at
people who have done the shunt mods see
what their overclock is and see how far
they've gone I believe there's a gtx n6
that was a Galax card that went beyond
not sure I'll top my head I want to say
when 2100 2200 megahertz which is pretty
far for a 10-6 I want to say was 2200
but they even higher actually but either
way there's how people pro overclockers
with the right tools and the right
knowledge who can hard mod insane to go
pretty far now how long does it live I
don't have an answer for you on that and
a large enough sample size but hopefully
that gives the basic understanding next
question is from SSG Smith who actually
let me let me look at these lessons I
believe all of the the previous two
questions were from YouTube directly
we've got some discord ones coming up
SSG Smith 51 says so long story short I
deploy early next month next year with
the US Army I want to get a gaming
laptop so when I have some downtime I
can forget them in our hot insanity
place by playing games or watching
movies my question is what should I be
looking for in a gaming laptop that
would be durable and cool enough that I
can use it in the desert without sand or
heat destroying it this encompasses not
only build quality but also how it cools
and how much heat it produces Thanks so
first of all that is a really
interesting question and it's a
difficult one to really find a perfect
fit for because that that would be the
one of the most extreme environments you
could possibly take a laptop into aside
from maybe the Arctic we've got the
opposite end of the problem so there are
ruggedized pcs they're called if you
look for the word ruggedized PC I don't
know if that's a trademarked word from
Dell or other people you too but they
those exist they are laptops that are
built like tanks they are normally used
or or made specifically for applications
like military I believe police and fire
use them and things like that
so ruggedized pcs would be the place to
start now the problem is I look through
these a bit for you and most of them
that are out there do not have a gaming
grade GPU in them which kind of makes
sense because with a ruggedized PC
you're enclosing the thing so much armor
which is to keep dust out some of them
are fireproof or at least five
resistance and and then they can with
withstand all kinds of drop force and
shock and vibe issues and things like
that so because of all that it means
that they have restricted ventilation
normally it means that they have pretty
bad battery life because they're running
warmer and so they don't only put a DGP
you in there so that's problem for
gaming there are a few out there I don't
know a whole lot about them so I'm not
going to name them but there are
ruggedized pcs specifically Dell makes a
few of them and then there are a few
other vendors as well I've seen I don't
know anything about their products now
if you're looking for a more standard
laptop the problem is ruggedized I've
kind of listed most of them no DDP you
for the most part if someone knows of
one though please link it below but the
other problem is they are expensive so
they can withstand a whole hell of a lot
of abuse but you keep drive cars over
sound that's how a beefed-up there it
won't crack the screen or anything but
they're expensive because of that so if
you're more of a consumer and paying for
it yourself
really what you have to look out for is
where is the ventilation on the laptop
so I would look around at a few miles
we've mostly tested MSI stuff lately I
don't know that they would be the best
for use in the desert but a lot of
laptops have either intake in the bottom
or intake through the back or sides it
just it depends on what it's either it's
one of the others either bottom intake
or its back or side intake around the
display and I would say look at where
the intakes are and consider doing your
own dust filter mod by like a really
fine dust filter we don't have any cases
around me with one on it but some of the
cases like I think the I want to say T
400 there's a couple others that have
those really fine magnetic dust filters
get one of those and cut it to size and
see if you can mod the laptop and shove
that in into the ventilation port maybe
get rid of whatever's in there default
because the ones that they put in there
they are they're ok for things like cat
hair or large pieces of dust but those
still get some laptops as you all
so put a finer dust filter and do a mod
on it and that should help I don't know
that it will keep sand out that's pretty
fine but it'll keep a lot of the other
stuff out so that would be an approach
where you kind of DIY a solution without
going hardcore ruggedized pc and other
than that you're probably gonna want to
be plugged in all the time if it's
possible because these don't have great
battery life keeping it cool enough is
going to I think to keep it cool is
largely going to be to keep it free of
sand and dust so you may may be a decent
idea to grab a tool kit if you have
enough down time to spend 40 minutes
every couple months and clean the thing
out we've got those I fix of tool kits
that have every screen you could want
through a gamers nexus coupon codes so
if you want to do that you can grab one
of that through our old advertisements
and sponsorship something we've got
links on the channel but that's what I
would do because it's cheaper and DIY
means you can you can fine-tune it to
your needs I would probably try and
reduce the amount of intake through the
bottom though of a laptop and keep it
elevated if you can next question is no
twist or not nah twist no twist says
this from discord says tall question for
sgn regarding error versus water cooling
what makes a 120 millimeter CLC more
effective than a heat sink fan combo at
cooling something's a very fundamental
question of kind of interesting
considering high end GPU heat sinks seem
to have more nickel plated copper
compared to the aluminum finned
radiators used in standard PLC's when it
stands a reason that the heat sinks
would be better overall dispersing heat
seems the primary use for CLC is
redirecting the heat but honest you're
using mini ITX for ambient pounds might
be an issue it does doesn't seem like it
would matter definitely FTW three are
similar cards up through 100 millimeter
fans or still one 120 millimeter found
on the radiator which should allow
quieter operation by running the fans at
lower rpm maybe I'm missing something so
this is all well accounted for these are
all the fine points that we mentioned
and reviews now let's see they had an
addendum I know the argument of
how the block itself is copper and water
is better heat dissipation than air but
some still requires it radiator to
actually cool the liquid the efficiency
seems bottlenecks by the radiator
materials even if it's copper so
regarding that all it does is redirect
the heat that's pretty much what any
heat sink does in these things its
entire job is to get the heat off of the
GPU and out into the case or into the
world that said there's a few things
here that should answer this get get you
on the road to understand what's going
on the first one is that what what is
being quote so with the hybrid cards you
are cooling the GPU silicon itself and
you've got your pump wraps through or
tubes wrapped through cool the GPU
silicon and the radiator spits it out of
the case but how are your vrm is cool
how's your beer am cold that is cooled
by the base plate still and by the
blower fan that's on the card probably
so that's the first thing the non hybrid
version of that the stock version uses a
heat sink to cool the GPU and still use
the base plate to cool the vram and the
VRMs and it's using one fan to cool all
of those things and and you've got sort
of greater saturation we'll say of the
cooling ability of that stock cooler
especially on the I'm talking reference
cards here right now on the reference
cards so there's a lot more heat in a
smaller area which changes one the heat
that we measured on the vram because
there's more surrounding heat and to
sort of the thermal density so to speak
of just that block area directly around
the GPU that's going to run warmer
anyway so that's what first thing is
what are they coin the liquid cooled
cards don't normally but do sometimes
cool the vrm in the vram so that means
that your temperatures are going to be
more controlled because that pump is
really only responsible for one thing
whereas the rest of the card is handled
by the the normal baseplate in the fan
the next thing this is more of a
fundamental thing to a couple more
things actually let's start with thermal
conductivity liquid has the greater
thermal kansai
to even air so you've got a well end to
add to that the inside of the pump the
cold plate has a whole lot of surface
area those micro friends are really dent
so it's it's got more surface area than
it might seem it's deceptive and because
the liquid is going through there we've
got better thermal dissipation potential
than with air your thermal conductivity
is higher so it runs through gets rid of
the heat a lot quicker one demand pump
rpm but just because of the thermal
conductivity in general and then it's
got a higher specific heat capacity
liquid that is then air does so this
means a few things one of them that's
not commonly discussed is that liquid
cooling solutions have a better ability
to soak thermal changes so if you have
if you ever benchmark a cpu heat sink or
CPU cool or whatever and you look at the
temperatures of the CP diode you'll see
that there are occasionally spikes that
are really high and then they come down
it doesn't matter if it's a 7700 K or
something else it just happens with
liquid coolers they can soak those
spikes a bit better because the liquid
takes longer to heat up than air might
for example and it's if you have a large
volume of liquid then even better you
can deal with the changes in an
integrator way and the higher specific
heat capacity does help in that regard
as well you take longer to reach a
steady state as well with the liquid
cooling than with air cooling and I
think that probably covers most the
basics that I've got written down for
notes anyway that I that I can think of
but yeah so the radiator fan goes pretty
fast as a ton of surface area in that
there's surface area on the cold plate
that helps out liquid gets the heat up
and out of that hot spot very quickly
because of the pump rpm goes through the
radiator you've got a pretty good amount
of liquid in there and it's cooled and
then recycled so that's the biggest
thing and then the next biggest thing is
that you're not cooling every single
component on the card which is a big
deal as well I think that helps though
if you all learn more about this stuff
I've mentioned him before VSG from
thermal van
he's he knows this stuff in an app so he
would be someone to look to for more
information last question is from beau
key or bow seat or beau cheat I don't
know how to say a name it's how my
Dischord as well I'm gonna go with beau
key asks sgn questions how do you cope
with senior AMD analysts a snowflake
around the office don't things go
missing all the time the answer is yes
the other day I found a thermocouple
cable that had wandered away from its
post because it seems like the kind of
thing that she thought needed further
analysis in the durability Department I
guess so yeah things go missing
sometimes we can deploy very
strategically deploy things like twist
size to redirect your attention in the
event of an audit that's all for this
one as always you can go to
patreon.com/scishow
and through there you can join our
discord server where we get more of
these questions and try to pull them
into this as well if you're interested
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I'll see you all next time
you
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