Gadgetory

we're building one of the most extreme of the extreme extreme overclocking rigs today and it's gonna be to tighten our TX's underwater blocks and we're gonna put those hooked up to this and this will have all the fans disconnected we use this previously so we're gonna disconnect all those fans and instead dunk this thing in an ice bucket and we already have a cooler that we used previously for that we're gonna hook that up to a dual DDC pump small reservoir and put an EVGA xj9 dark on here with a ninety nine eight exe which with all of that assistance from chilled water and this this water block which is a heat killer block we used in our previous 99 80 XE overclocking stream with all of that assistance we should be able to get it to pretty good clocks one interesting thing from the previous stream that I don't know if we noticed during the stream but I was trying to do per core overclocking and I have a fun note on that for for today and how that's actually gonna end up better than we thought the biggest thing is gonna be two of these underwater and then chilled to see if we can get some new records before that this video is brought to you by a thermal grizzly and their high-end thermal compounds thermal grizzly makes cryo not paste for high thermal performance and conductivity without being electrically conductive so you don't have to worry about shorting components cryo knot is particularly good for replacing stock GPU pastes as cryo knot is a non curing compound learn more at the link in the description below so here's the interesting thing with the 99 80 XE from last time we had it in this board I don't know if it was a bug or what but I thought we were running only a couple of the cores at 5.14 one of the tests and it ended up we were running all of them at 5.1 so the per core overclocking was not working properly might have been a bug in BIOS not a hundred percent clear on that but the cool thing is we might actually be able to run 5.1 stable all core on an 18 core CPU now we've had that rip J competition going on for a while now J went to dry ice we didn't do that we have the tools to do it but never did it and you know now that we have new hardware think to really revive this series what I'm going to do is is see if we can beat J's score with just chilled water and if we can't then I guess we'll move the dry ice or something although from what he was telling me it's a huge pain and I would like to avoid it as long as possible so we're gonna see how far we can go with just chilling these things and first thing you need to do is pick out some water blocks so we have to tighten our t axes we have the cooler and I need water blocks I need the CPU and then I guess we'll do a shunt mod on Titan RT axis as well the one concern is that I don't have V bios mods for these so I don't know since I'm gonna be limited to 120 percent offset they might actually be worse performers than 20 atti which would be disappointing but I have an idea from Build Zoid that involves removing one of the shunt resistors or both no plot now maybe both remove the shunt resistors and short the contacts directly rather than with liquid metal so if this doesn't work out well then we'll go that route next I guess and try his shunt resistor mod but let's start with the water blocks today and then we'll explore more after that here's one so we have a couple pick which ones were using we have a thermal take one we have an ek 20 so these will fit 20 atti blocks will fit on the Titan r-tx which is really nice okay so we have to pick which of these to use if twenty atti the reference PCB is the same as the titan r-tx reference PCB which makes things really easy I'm thinking everything I think I might like the heat killer so keep this in mind damn that's pretty pretty clear winner there's ek UK thought they had an issue right around when the 28th et I was having all those artifacting defects and I think it might have just been that was before everyone kind of figured out it was Nvidia at fault so I don't know if ek was ever actually who that is they're really the MOSFETs are extremely far away from the waterblock on this so we could put a thick thermal pad in there and it would be fine but it needs to be like a two millimeter thick pad so not sure if that's the best solution that's their only thing their own take might be the one with an issue let's see how Hosey case clearance on the vram is good MOSFETs will need a thicker pad otherwise should be okay that's a good-looking block this is the heat killer super nice okay we're gonna start with the heat killer by water cool all right condensation is not too much of a concern on these as long as there's not air flow and because this entire system is gonna be underwater air air is not going to be hitting any of these parts so probably what I'll do is mount at all and then I think just stuffed a paper towel around the outer edges to prevent any air from getting in there and as long as no air is getting in the no condensation it's gonna form on the underside of the block so that's my hope I'm hoping that's enough probably well yeah there's a full coverage block so I mean I could I could do some coating around the GPU but I mean I might as well do the whole board at that point and I don't feel like coating it in Vaseline because I don't want to clean it off later so we're just gonna we're just gonna do a paper towel around the outer edge and hopefully that's enough to prevent condensation the dew point is low enough I mean it's a it is what are we 44 percent humidity right now so we should be okay anyway so I need a good thermal paste and I need to figure out which hunts go where just a multimeter to figure out the shunt resistor paths it's a lot of you have seen this plenty of times at this point but we're doing is we're doing a resistance check and we're gonna check against the 12 volt line coming in and then against the leg of the shunt resistor and we have the mod mat on stored at gamer's axis done that we have some footage of the wiring diagram on there if you want to buy one that's what I use to remember where I'm measuring so this shunt resistor leg right here five million shunt resistor measures out as no resistance to the 12 volt pen on that PCIe connectors that one goes there and because the same PCB as the 28 ECI this one should go there there it is okay cool that was it just hard to hold it steady okay so the one on the back goes to this one okay so what we're gonna do is just liquid metal on these for now do the front one first mount the the water block and then after that we'll look into builds roid solution later but the first step is to get this up and running it's going to be kind of a pain to disassemble it but we'll do it this way I think we're just gonna tape shop towel to the back of it so no backplate some mountain without backlit okay so we're gonna do the thermal pad this is gonna suck the plastic still has to come off of these so right now I'm just making sure I know where everything goes so these are 0.5 that's gonna be from memory did it pre-cut them out that's nice this goes there and we're missing one one of the throne pads didn't make it into the bag or didn't make it or stuck to one of these other ones there should be one more up here I can probably cut this one make it fit though like in plastic bastard and okay got it okay so the good news about this you know it is a pretty slow process is that this is covering most of the parts so in terms of preventing air flow these sternal pads would do a pretty good job of preventing air flow which is good because they're just supposed to transfer heat into the block and you don't want any air getting under under the block this is physically hurting my back my necks gonna be all stuck after it like this they shorted me a pad bastards all right good enough guthka nuke so we got all of the hot pads on liquid metal I guess is the next step these are free liquid metal they don't sell them at a Walgreens with their Bauer's face on them though I think he should get into it so like I said there's a more interesting approach to this than what we're doing which is build Zoids mod I have to talk to him about it I haven't yet where instead of liquid metal he'd remove the shunt completely and then solder a little setup in place to short two of the pads that the shunt resistor comes off of so that's a really good looking approach that 100% removes the power limit the downside is that requires physically modding the card and it also I haven't done it before so I did talk to him about that maybe if if we don't get a V bios that will allow us to overpower this card then I'll probably go that route you too much it will bug out the card and you let's remove it so that might be kind of bordering on too much we'll see there your question is as long as it doesn't drip I wanted to sit vertically then we're good no nail polish to protect the parts around it should have done this first really but I was fairly confident so okay so that's down in the in between that and doctor and the shunt resistor I put a bunch of nail polish because the inductor has a foot down there and we don't want that to come into contact with the shunt resistor via liquid metal because that was short stuff out so we're good there biggest concern is still V bios but we're at a point where we can put the waterblock on the card with some thermal paste so I'm gonna grab some cryo not after that so I'm gonna put a lot on for two reasons one doesn't matter and not contacting a part of the GPU is really bad you can start killing small parts on it internally to I want this stuff to squish out and fill just around the perimeter on the substrate just I mean it's not going to hurt anything and it will add additional layer of ensuring there's no condensation drip down onto the small caps and and things on the substrate okay so what we need to do at this point is they're being very formal here referring to me as II I appreciate that water cool thank you as opposed to the informal do so leggins edane cooler out of the four barite at the graphic carta and Ramsey on fleece and bite us to Zalman oom a bunch of other stuff so basically Reina screw the screws in and we have a whole bag of screws so 15 cylinder head screws there m3 by eights two cylinder heads I'm three by six and some washers it's a heavy heavy water block use some serious copper on this super dense that kid from the verge video was right when he said you needed he said you need an allen key and everyone made fun of him because he only needed a Phillips head screwdriver it was actually right you didn't need an allen key for this so we have I think yes we are clear we were clear of the shunt resistor get out of there alright okay there's the washer okay oh my god what a pain in the ass there it is it looks really good damn cool so I got to make sure there's contact everywhere and it looks like there is yeah we're good to go okay so that's a card number one and now we need to do liquid metal on that one I'll do that I guess I'll do that now before I forget and then we also need to cover up the backside with loose shop towel need to cover up the backside of blue shop towel just to prevent condensation from forming okay nice there's enough surface tension it's staying on okay cool okay card number one is finished so we took took a break or on day 2 now of the build because day one was really just through careful picking these up now they have liquid and hell on them it was just getting the blocks on the Titan RT axes and they all say 20 ATT is but their Titan RT X's and they've got liquid metal on the shunt on the back which is kind of a precarious position for it to be in and liquid metal on the the one on the front side too so we've got that handled have to leave these facedown and then the other one has the water cool block on it they look pretty good I don't know we might have some b-roll shots of them or something but I'm not really sure which one's gonna perform the best we're not testing that today something I'd like to test but all we really care about right now is cool as well and what we have to do at this point is put together the rest of the system so a motherboard Rams heap you all that stuff and then the hard part is going to be figuring out how to route the tubes in the most effective way possible while also allowing this giant radiator over here to run down into the pocket so I don't 100% know where to start but I guess we'll start with the motherboard the CPU and the RAM then start figuring out tube lengths after that step one we're gonna go back to this board this is the EVGA x2 99 dark and this has served us well really well don't remember what we used for rip ltte i I want to say was probably this board as well but we use this for the later rip J and the repel TT 2 and as I said in the first part I don't know if it got edited out or not at this point but first part of this video one of the things I said was the Titan RT axes are not that much better than the 2080 Ti so I'm not sure if I'm really gonna be able to gain any ground against these against J at this point without dry ice but I really want to avoid it because it's a pain and I think it'd be cool to to best his current score without it by using newer hardware I need a cpu so we're gonna go grab a cpu so many of the 99 ATX we use the 79 ad XE originally these all the s-class CPUs it's wet intel calls the desktop CP as a s-series that's what all those are and then what we need is an ex h EDT cpu we have the 79 80 XE which is done so well that it's become a bit of a meme in our live streams then the 99 ATX e which is still soldered and I'm not gonna deal with it because it's very risky so where you use this for the CPU first thing we're gonna do is I actually take the RAM out and I'll talk you through what we're doing here so one of the biggest things that you're not gonna be used to most likely is preparing for condensation which is why I'm unbuilding part of this so we are going to put some blue shop towel down around the CPU socket area and condensations really only get a form when the the cooling solution is lower than ambient temperature and there's airflow over things that can form condensation like tubes for example and so we're gonna have the block is a potential risk the everything around the socket where the block overhangs part of the motherboard that's a potential risk for drip edge from the block and then the we're just gonna real limit airflow on the best way to limit air flow is to eliminate fans and then after that the next best thing to do is to stuff paper towels everywhere so I'm going to keep these fans on the VRM there's probably not going to need it because since we're using chilled water for everything through this setup over here this is all going to be dunked and ice will have some condensation forming on the tubes with these will be wrapped with blue shop towel as well and because this part for the CPU will be below ambient it's also going to sort of naturally cool the rest of the board around it and that includes a bit of the vrm because if you think about everything is connected by copper traces inside the board copper is a conductor of heat and it's it's going to help us sort of keep everything surrounding the CPU sub ambien including parts of the VR app which we've seen with the video cards so I need shop towel first thing we need is an anti-static wrist strap that's not connected to anything you we learned this from the verge you may have seen their PC build and actually if you wear a LIVESTRONG bracelet it's preferable but this is the best we have so we need one of those just to make sure we wirelessly into the cosmos ground ourselves because that is in fact how it works I'm going to need a lot of shop towel and I think what I'm going to do is put the mounting screws in there and then kind of just cut around it like an arts and crafts project or something all right so what I'm going to do is just kind of suck at these loosely just so I don't accidentally cover over the screw holes and then we'll start cutting around it this is gonna be easier as I learned I learned this last time easier to do it before mounting the block because otherwise you're like shoving shop towel and around the corners and the CPU is socketed so that I mean I can apply force wherever I want and I'm not going to bend any pins and we just need to cut a hole there and what we'll do is probably do something like this around the whole perimeter leaving exposed only the slots where stuff needs to go something like this should work pretty nicely and you know while I'm at it I think I'm going to prepare this for dry ice as well just in case going with chilled waters not enough so in order to do that we're gonna grab some artists erase or some kneadable eraser and spread that around too just to give us two layers of protection here's here's my bin of X hosi materials I don't have too many but we're gonna prepare a bit for dry ice with the ln2 pots although I'm starting with chilled water and this stuff is great for that this is just like favourite castile kneadable eraser and it is not electrically conductive it won't hurt the components won't short them but it will help prevent air from touching them dear Bauer and others will use Vaseline and then he takes the board and and puts it in a dishwasher and I would rather not get it that messy this this stuff is it sucks but it's easy to remove and it doesn't require a dishwasher so we're good there this is from kingpin I bought it from them I don't think we're gonna use this today but this is just foam for further condensation prevention it's kind of overkill for what we're doing right now we have like these foam sort of cut out from ek I don't know oh that's pretty nice Wow I was gonna say I don't know if they're cut to size but these are actually cut to size where we might want some some protection is on the back as well I don't know where they actually intend to use this I I haven't used these before so I don't know if it actually goes here or just on the back we have socket heaters and stuff like that to you but we're not gonna need that today so yeah I need need a ball eraser on the back and shop towel everywhere so let's just throw one of these in there even though I'm not really a hundred percent positive that's right belongs and then we'll throw some of this in there I have this stuff too this is more for the backside of the like these will they fit these oh yeah they cut some of these to size for GPUs for us actually so we can put that we have some allen teapots for the GPUs as well but let's start with the eraser it's gonna take a while so it probably just time-lapse it or something okay that's the top we're gonna do the back as well because if any air gets under the board when it's on the bench it can definitely form condensation on the back of the socket for the back of the sock it's gonna be below ambient and depend on if we're using dry ice or or just cold water the severity of the condensation that can form well will vary but definitely we're below ambient here and we've got a big metal plate on it so I cover that up as well and then we'll stuff towel around the outside edges of the board on the bench just to prevent anything from from any air from blowing under there did something rare when I set this up and was smart sort of hook this up to QD C's so inhibits flow a bit but I'll be able to just install the block without having to worry about the rest of the tubing length so that'll let me continue to do the insulation in the meantime there's one these are all just EK quick disconnects with the water cool block and now I just need to get some thrown paste on there with it Sweeney's thermal grizzly cryo not a lot of it I'll just squish out that's fine so here's the setup put the eraser on the underside and then shop towels going roll all around everything that's metal and also anything that well yeah everything that's metal anything we don't want exposed to air and I will do a bunch of insulation on top of the block as well because that's gonna get condensation and you have to be careful of a few things like like not ripping off capacitors for example with the eraser but other than that it's pretty straightforward now thermally all this stuff will actually be fine because even though it's completely smothered and no air can get through it all these parts are on the same PCB ultimately as the chilled you know CPU and socket so that's going to if you have liquid nitrogen if you look at a liquid nitrogen setup you'll see that it freezes up all around the area that's actually under the liquid nitrogen same thing applies here to a much of last extreme degree anything that's connected to the chilled water or the dry ice like cold components will end up colder just by being connected so vrm will be fine all those small caps will be fine they're all going to be below ambient or at ambient worst-case scenario so we're good there now I just need to make sure no air gets anywhere close to the socket and the most air is gonna be coming out of here so when it kind of blocked that off we potentially even turn those off during a testing if everything else is cold enough builds Wade told me how to do it all he made a video for me of him insulating some stuff it took him like 15 minutes maybe 20 and and he was like okay done here's the video of how to do it and just like an origami basically he used two pieces of shop towel and he like folded them in some weird weird ways like billiards like a magician with this he had it all done 15 20 minutes full-coverage and two pieces of shop towel and like four pieces of tape and then I did mine and it was like 90% tape and sent it to him and he was like well that'll work okay so we're gonna stop here for day 2 pretty good amount of progress so far though what we've done is basically set it up so it's all ready to go so this is semi modular did the insulation in a way that when it's time to go dry ice or something oh I just pull off the top layer of the the block and the blue shop towel and then drop on there Bowers beast onto pot that he sent us so that's easy to do and I think the goal here the biggest thing to remember is that as long as there's no airflow there's no condensation so don't let air hit anything around the block and we're good and this will prevent that from happening so that should prevent condensation concerns I think we also won't need any fans on the bench unlike last time because last time I didn't really fully understand just how how powerful using chilled water is because as we sort of got it in use we realized that oh actually having the last time was a twenty eighty I how many twenty atti under chilled water gets the vrm also down to sub ambient by about one or two degrees so there's no reason to have here I'm cooling in like the 20s and 30s Celsius so that's pretty cool and we can eliminate all the fans on the bench which means that it helps reduce concerns of condensation that was the biggest stress I had last time still a risk but yeah as we do this more I think the concern of that risk will go down as we kind of learn what causes condensation or where it typically forms still need to put shop towel on the back I'm gonna wait till the very end for that and and wait till we do the tube routing which will be the next part so that's that's where we are now we have two well-built tighten our TX cards with water blocks that are full coverage we have the setup for the motherboard for the CPU socket with a heat killer for amazing block last time we did the test we've got the more a three radiator we're gonna remove the fans from that dunk it in the 78 quart cooler we have and route all the tubes so that's the next big step finish insulation fill it with ice and maybe some salt and we'll be good to go for some overclocking live streams with these and see if we can achieve any new score it'll be our old score I don't know if we'll beat Jase current score excuse dry ice but because they're tighten our TX's it'll will have a slight native advantage and fire strike anti aspire all about gps core so even if we'd get just like an extra 200 points gps core which is low i think that will calculate us to be over JS current standing because most of his score is cpu point so if we go heavy on GPU we should be good plus ninety nine eight exe so it's it's a bit of like getting a head through arms racing by upgrading the hardware and j has all this hardware as well so it's only a matter of time that were we're forced to rethink the strategy but that's part one and two smashed into one video and check back soon we'll have the tube routing and the rest of this insane build blog because that's basically what this is at this point you're you are you're watching the building of the most extreme overclocking rig we've done yet so check back for that subscribe for more as always you can go to store like game is access dotnet to pick one of our shirts the ones that are still in stock we're restocking a lot of stuff right now mugs are coming in as well or patreon.com/scishow and exit stops out there as well and subscribe for more as I said I'll see you all next time