Gadgetory

a one-hour gtx 980ti review should already be online and now we are tearing it down so this will be part of our progress to building a liquid-cooled nad TI as we've done in the past if you saw our 1080 TI review it shows some thermal verses frequency charts where the thin is clearly limited by its temperature Headroom so we're going to fix that problem and this time I'm like before we'll be measuring the BRM temps in the process before getting to that this teardown we brought to you by iFixit we're using their tools for the whole thing we have the iFixit Pro Tech tool kit here which is one that I use regularly for these tear downs so quite happy to have it on as a show sponsor you can use code gamers Nexus at ifixit.com you get five dollars off the Pro Tech tool kit is one of their mid price items then they've got these large 128 bit kits as well which we might throw to you for some other things so let's get to it this thing the 1080i is similar to the 1080 it has the in terms of the design anyway it's a reference cooler so it's got the backplate that's pretty straightforward metal black back plate with the just a couple tiny screws around the edges underneath it I would imagine just like the 1080 it's probably got those really annoying 3.5 millimeter allen head screws which I don't know why they chose that size and then about a million more over here now if we were just going to remove the cooler and place a completely new base plate on there maybe if you're doing a water block that would be a much easier job because I want to put one of these on there this is an EVGA hybrid cooler so this is their one from the 980 I in the 1080 it's the same thing it's an ace attack Gen 4.5 cooler stores pretty well in our mods in the path you can buy them separately we're going to put that on and that requires taking the entire thing apart which is kind of unfortunate because they don't always go back the same way this is a 1080 founders edition card it require a bit of effort to get it back to eight well it's really so let's start with it the back we're going to take the large screws offers I think I'm going to modify my approach to this from previously so I think the new approach is going to be to completely remove the cooler and separate the on the PCB and then take the cooler part rather than take it all apart with the PCB still on there that should make it easier to deal with the thermal pad if you're wondering this besides Philip zero zero okay so how many screws is that just for the backplate if you're keeping track it's three six eight nine 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 screws just to get the backplate loose and backplate has no special thermal pads or anything on the inside in fact it barely touches the PCB at all it's got this raised outside but as you'll see in our numbers for the review the PCB back the back of the PCB is actually not that warm so it's really not bad even though it looks like it doesn't do a whole lot doesn't seem to be increasing temperature in any substantial way but it's also not decrease in any substantial way the icx coolers do a much better job with a back way once all pad there what does that even attach to you let's see so that looks like it's gone down this I see right here to some that to build so it for part of his erm analysis builder will have vrm analysis for us by the way tomorrow or the next day depending on when you see this okay so with the back plate off now we need to work on removing all these tiny things what size are these four he's not before actually stand corrected they're not 3.5 they are four so this point we can more or less separate the PCV and the plate you can see them kind of starting to separate the thing I've learned is I prefer to separate them with a PCB down on the table that way the thermal pads tend to stick to where they are on the PCB not come off with the cooler but first we do have to take these screws out and there are five of these here's our i/o and now we just have the card in the cooler let's pull these apart previously we've watched previous tear downs I tend to start taking these screws out next around the radial fan and that frees up this so the way it will separate is this piece here is part of the shroud underneath it is the vapor chamber cooler which is really just a thin stack with the vapor chamber in it we already disconnected that so this pulls off that pulls off this black piece pulls off and then there are these pieces here this C shaped bracket there are two of those that pull off and patna there's another piece under here normally actually this is it right here a lot of small pieces but we can actually accelerate this a bit by doing it this way and now I'm connected by screws so we've got the fan and the LED kind of hold this here disconnect that try not to pull by the cable but whatever clean it up for this so what we've got is couple things this PCB is a good bit different from the 1080 founders edition the GPU is as you can see GPU 102 - 350 K 1 a1 so that's the full skier now as I've explained in the past generally an A Rev means it's production-ready a1 generally in my experience in the industry when I worked elsewhere a one would mean it was the first shipping production ready Rev and later you might seen a 2 if they make an update of some kind so our first Rev GP 102 is the new GPU rather than GP 104 106 or what-have-you 107 and 350 is the sub number for the skew in terms of the memory layout we're missing a module here means you've got 11 gigabytes in total so we have 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 modules at 1 gigabyte each these are micron and they have a skew on them d9 v RL these are the new micron g5x or gddr5 X memory skis which go up to 11 gigabits per second rather than the 10 previously and the vrm got some thermal pads for covering things but can more or less figure everything out bill do it we'll have a more detailed video on this for us on our channel but these are fairchild sets and so the format here it's a 7 phase vrm design but they are doing 2 sets per phase so it's splitting the current which spreads the heat and it shouldn't help a bit with power delivery but I'll leave all that to build the discussion he is the throw over clock or after all power you can see we've got 8 6 and 10 out for our solder points for another 8 pin here if a board partner wanted to buy this PCB instead of making their own they could solder their power header here rather than up that's really the only reason that exists I don't think you'll see a three header set up on a reference board it's possible but if you see three power headers at all it will probably be a custom board there are a couple of other places where you can see there is there are things missing like here here the memory module of course and that's really that's most of it the this is your inductor Bank capacitor bank MOSFETs for the actual power management and delivery we have some doubling going on and I think that more or less covers the basics of the BRM the GPU is a good deal bigger than the GTX 1080 GPU which we might have some shots of that still if you wanted to see a size comparison it's a bit larger as 28 SMS rather than 20 SMS and then for the cooler itself which we still have to take apart the cooler here's your vapor chamber plus thin stack we have the thermal pads for each g5x module they're all pads that are bit beat up for the capacitor banks big hole where the inductors go because it was run really hot and there's no reason to six are all pads on them better just expose them to air although they can take quite a bit of heat because it's just literally a copper coil inside of a heatsink and then this is the FET doublers all that stuff so we need to pull this apart so I can get the base plate and put the base plate back on and use that for the foundation of our mod okay that's going to be pocketed so we can't remove that yet snapped that last time with T 1080 because I'm a 980 it was adhesive and now they socket it so if you try to pull it off he'll break that's convenient the point of this is to get the throne pads to not just stick to the table we're trying to give it a surface so that alright so there's the acrylic or polycarbonate window there's the shroud here's the heatsink four more screws here I don't know that we need to disconnect this so ideal we ideally we leave this radial fan in place so there's still some cooling on the VRMs and having a base plate there will certainly help and as you can see some pads are all still there so thank you I fix it for the cutting board and centralized cutting board pads are still there so we have vrm cooling capabilities question is will I be able to fit this in without taking out the rest of the screws that looks like it will fit yeah so I think we can actually leave those screws in not short they're holding in actually see I think that just yeah they're holding the outer frame to the inner part this this right here this black part of the frame is being held into this part of the frame by these four screws so we could separate them which wouldn't really teach us anything we haven't already learned from the 1080 teardown because this is the same cooler this thing is all the same there's a part so this looks like it's actually cooling but it looks like something like is actually cool components but it's really for looks because there's a partition in here so there's no air that can go through here and wick heat because it's just going to get blocked and there's no suction from this fan because again there's a partition so that's entirely for looks doesn't actually do anything really I might do something but it's very it's insignificant whatever it does the rest of the real coins all right here so I think we're good I think that actually is the easiest teardown ever for videocard the unit itself is not not necessarily the easiest out of all the video cards in terms of the amount of screws but once you kind of have an idea for what you're doing it's not bad we the PCB will be looked at separately part two we will build up the cooler and then the plan is the plan is once we've got all this assembled test it with the liquid cooler and this will go live after pax by the way so this this part of the video is before patches our impact we have pax this weekend that means no final conclusion until I'm back which will be Monday Sunday night Monday so Pat sum it up by Tuesday that will have the results and we'll be able to see if liquid cooling the GPU brings down the core temperature enough which it should so that even just without any overclock just stock with the new cooler theoretically boost 3.0 should allow the clock to go higher because it will no longer have that thermal limitation which is imposed by Nvidia zone cooler this cooler is not very good it with an auto fan speed tends to max out around 50 percent unless you really stress it at 50 percent that's a bearable noise level you can actually tolerate it but you definitely get some more clock spike eNOS whereas once you force it to 80 percent it generally boosts a bit higher and it's way more stable so you have fewer frame drops unfortunately it's also intolerable for noise so liquid will fix that the question is what will happen when we put some thermal probes on here some thermocouples and csdb RM temps go up as a result of that mod since we'll be taking away something cooling potential for the V RMS I'm really interested about that we haven't done that before thank you for watching as always that subscribe for the next parts of this series go to patreon.com/scishow and access to help us make more videos like this as always that links in the description below for more information you can use the code gamers nexus at I fix it comm if you like any of these tools they have them there five bucks off thanks for watching I'll see you all next time you