everyone are back for part two of our
1080i hybrid build this is the build up
the next and final part of the video
will be the results we just got back
from PAX East
so it's delayed by a few days but we've
got the card here I have the liquid
cooler ready we're going to build it up
I'll walk you through the process in
case you want to do this on your own but
before we get into that so this coverage
is brought to you by ifixit.com and our
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did not steal it so brought to you by
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order the protec toolkits a good place
to start I think this one's 70 bucks so
we're gonna be using a lot of this stuff
for our teardown here today but let's
get to it so the card this is a 1080 TI
it's video cards it's PCP very
straightforward this is a founders
edition board so nothing crazy going on
we are able to use the founders edition
base plate which is this part here and
part of the shroud I've removed the
other part of the shroud which goes here
along with the window so that there's a
window used to be there and the heatsink
we removed all those because instead we
were going to be putting an EVGA CLC on
it which I'll link in the description
below this is the same one that they
sold with a 980 TI hybrid kits but
you'll also find them of the 1080 and
1070 hybrid kits and I believe it'll
work on the 1080i that we're about to
find out I think it works on the Titan X
which is basically 1080i and there's a
board layout so this has the protruding
copper plate we found it to work pretty
damn well for liquid coinage GPU but
there's the one issue of your basically
yeah that'll work for that cool the one
issue is vrm and vram cooling so we lose
some of that clean potential but this
time I'll be mounting some thermocouples
to the VRM that's number two and seven
and to the back side of the PCB to make
sure that the back plate isn't trapping
any heat in a way that's detrimental so
we doing all that today alongside the
build up I need thermocouples put one
right here so first thing we're going to
do I applied some thermocouples to this
you are not going to do that step and so
we didn't show it a reduced confusion
but we've got the thermocouples on there
which means I can start reapplying the
baseplate and this is all one piece
right now which makes it seem easy but
we actually have to remove this part so
that we can connect the pump and and fan
for the radiator into the Ford power
which is currently where this blower
fans connected now we still want the
blower fan because that is going to be
used to cool the vrm or the VRMs as much
as it can be without the rest of the
heatsink there and then we use the
thermocouples to see how effective that
actually is this comes out that's your
LED power and now we need that we've got
access to the vrm fan which I already
unplugged in there I need to take this
off momentarily to connect the radiator
pump and fan header to that so this
should probably come off where's the
screw underneath still
okay cool all right so now the easiest
way it would be to pull that base plate
off remove the screw from the underside
that's holding this part of the shroud
on but they didn't do that that's fine
so we've got that connected now we've
faced more or less spliced in the pump
and fan power into the PCB where we plug
in the BRM fan and all of them are
connected so this will still spin
provided we're not dragging on a cable
which you will want to spin that fan
before you close it to make sure that
doesn't happen and you can just kind of
shove all this over into the corner just
do so without without pulling any of the
individual wires that obviously big
screws go back in first and this piece
we're going to plug the LED power back
in I need to figure out how I want to
route this I'm thinking up and over and
then you can see the partition here
we'll go around the outside of the fan
like this so we're actually going to be
keeping those cables out for sure and
hopefully routing them around the
outside of it lets you route it under
okay cool
cool so I routed this a cable end sort
of around a pillar right here and that
allows us to get in there
without blocking anything or without
restricting my ability to install this
pump the next thing we care about is one
does it make contact which it does and
we can validate that by applying some
thermal paste later and then to do the
tubes route out unobstructed than they
do so we're actually in really good
shape for this mod cool looks good
disconnect the span so I can route it a
bit better and now we need to secure the
when you secure the base plate and to
the rest of the unit I'm not going to
worry about the pump for a moment flip
it over so it's got a few screws and I
to hold everything together so for this
one I'm going to pull this and then we
need a really dumb sighs I think it's a
four millimeter see yes this is a four
millimeter allen head will get a couple
of these tiny screws in there just to
hold it together
I put one in each corner so it stays
even sore more or less held together
thermal paste is of course the favorite
part for YouTube to criticise I will say
this immediately you want to with GPU
you want absolute full coverage of that
whole die if you miss a spot on that die
it the silicon die will die so this is
not a matter of put a small dot in the
middle and hope it spreads because if
you spread it out and let's say we end
up with a circle that is maybe like like
there where you're cutting off the
corners that can and will destroy a GPU
provided the right scenario provided the
right part of the GPU begins to overheat
because this entire thing is more or
less in use it's not like an IHS on the
cpu where you've got parts that are
actually not covering where the die is
and it also doesn't have an IHS in the
same way CPU does so I'm going to be
generous here because truth be told
there's no negative impact performance
for having too much thermal paste on GPU
unless it's the point where smashing it
down with the cooler doesn't doesn't
force it out of the sides anyway which
this will if it is a problem anything
extra will will be pushed out the sides
don't they start torquing this down
okay all right so that's installed this
is an instance of monkey tight not not
gorilla tight don't go crazy on that and
crack the die if you really really
torque down with an electric driver or
something and all these cables you will
not have these are because the
thermocouples that we use for testing
paint on mind if we're just going to
seal up the back now all right cool
that's more or less in place for the
backplate or for the expansion plate now
next we have to start screwing in all
these tiny really really tiny screws and
these will break exceptionally easily so
if you over tighten them and the by over
tighten I mean basically it'll stop
you'll hit a resistance point if you try
to turn it once more it will snap at the
stem so keep that in mind when
reapplying these so I'm gonna use a I
normally use a Phillips zero I think I
want to say this one right here zero
that's yeah that's right so here comes
going to hit the resistance point that's
it if I turn at all any further it will
SAP
all right so I got the last thermocouple
on there that we're going to put on now
we just need to screw everything in cool
I'll raise these stupid things now we
need these dumb things in there yeah
that's better
two millimeters that's what you want
just totally without function this part
I can put all the pieces back in because
we removed some of the shroud and the
window which will not definitely not fit
with that maybe haven't even gone to
remove it pretty okay I think those
actually in my version of the modern I
can fit back in because if I've
installed this with the cable but fans
Bend plates secured from these four
screws so that's good enough for me
I think this is done I think it's
actually complete this is one of the
easiest hybrid models we've ever done
I'm going to push all the screws pieces
aside we'll save those separately
basically we've got a 1080i hybrid it
should eliminate some of the clock T
keenest I guess with the original
testing that we saw it will allow a
higher clock speed theoretically a
couple percent improvement in fps
natively just for being cool better and
we'll see what it does for overclocking
as well check back for part three
subscribe as always for that we have
some other cool tear downs we've done
recently including the Nintendo switch
and the joy cons I went with it so those
interest you they are on the channel
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thanks for watching check back to the
results I'll see you all next time
you
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