Gadgetory

hey everybody so today we are tearing apart a GTX 1080 we just posted the review of this obviously I'm sure most of you have seen it by now so we're going to take this apart this is a $700 project that cannot go wrong and as such I've taken a couple precautions here for anti-static discharge so you've got an ESD safe mat this is a proper mat that's got the mesh inside of it to dissipate any voltage that comes off may your current that comes off me so to keep the static electricity off the card I'm gonna be wearing one of these ESD bracelets that goes into the wall it's connected to ground and then anything coming out of my arm in terms of electricity will sink into this mat and just dissipate through the mesh so we've got that covered I'm gonna take this apart and keep very close track of everything so this is actually from a 980ti which I took this this apart previously you can see right here this is a 980ti and it was pretty successful came apart easily the process looks like it has not changed just from glancing at the 1080 we have not practiced this so this is a dry run here and hopefully everything works out pretty well so the GTX 1080 just basic specs that are important to note are that it is first of all a 2560 GP 104 kuduk work hard and it's brand new $700 for the founders edition this is the founders Edition different from the AIB version from the board partners and the board partners will be shipping as low as 600 within MSRP anyway and then of course we'll see pretty high numbers probably all the way up to like 750 or something for for a hybrid card which we are actually going to create and that is a large reason for this project so we're gonna create our own hybrid GTX not 1080 and this is just a start this is the teardown in the next video will be the build up and the testing for the hybrid version of the card so let's start by taking this thing apart and marking where all the screws go so we're going to start by removing the plates on the card it's got a couple of brackets here there's this weird shaped bracket on the top that doesn't really serve as far as I'm aware any real mechanical purpose but it does need to come off I think it locks into the sort of mounting bracket underneath and that's about it sort of take that off using a what is that some number three I think Allen key might be a two point five but it looks like a three to me so we're gonna do that next we'll move on to what the one on the underside there's an identical version of this on the underside which I'll show you okay so we got the screws out for this and this will actually pull out I think it's got an adhesive on there so you will have difficulty getting a back on later if you want to get it back on the exact same way that comes off and then here's that one on the bottom that I was talking about was the same exact thing and what we're gonna do just to keep everything clean is mark on the magnetic project mat over here where the pieces go so I'm just going to draw that shape so I remember later that these screws go there so put these two there and unscrew the bottom one as well alright so I'm gonna stop for a second because it was hard to get some of the screws out and I don't want to dig at them with this crappy terrible tool use better tools than I am by the way so what we're gonna do is magnetize it and this is just a giant magnet from a motor from a printer motor and you could use a hard drive magnet as well all you have to do is get the tool you're on a magnetized put it in there do that for a second and should be magnetized after that so pretty cool trick if you did not know it obviously you don't want to put something as powerful as this motor magnet near a hard drive or any kind of permanent media because it will destroy it so we've got those off and I'm just gonna mark this on our sheet as well so there's our two screws for the bottom plate two screws for the top plate and those were just the easy ones to cherry-pick let's figure out the best approach to taking this thing apart I've not taken one of these apart yet obviously it's brand new so these I can tell you right now these four goats the pomp block or well it's not a pump because it's not a liquid card but rather the cold play the alloy heatsink right here that you can see through the acrylic that alloy a heatsink is mounted by these four Phillips head screws and then the rest there's a bunch of really tiny screws I think I have a tool that can do that that holds on the back plate and this back plate is sort of like the 981 which I happen to have over here off to the side this 980 back plate up here there's one screw spot you can see this stands out a bit more than the rest of the back plate that's because that comes off to give more breathability for SLI I don't think it really did a lot for the 980 and but for the 1080 they decided to change it for this entire half of the back plate so you just take that whole thing off I don't think it does not look like we'll have to remove that to do what I want to do later which is install a liquid pump so that looks like it can stay there so let's go ahead and just start work the most obvious with these it looks like number four that's a five number four Allen screws something like that yes that is what it is this one's actually very loose curious if someone else came in here first yeah this is a four or a five it's a some kind of millimeter allen key but I put that there go diagonal opposing corners for every screw from now on this is what I just a rule I have because if you hit something that is is under some torque particularly anything like a heat sink for a CPU or GPU you will want to we go opposing corners and that is just to make sure that the the torque spreads out evenly over the device as you're removing it or installing it and does not cause any damage so we can do those up there that's right there or something like that so we've gotten the four screws off for the main part of the shroud that's the sort of left side of the shroud this part looks like it's a separate piece of plastic which as you'll see in this box I've got is actually true for the 980ti as well so this is our 980ti this is the 980 i if you've ever wanted to see a box of a $650 video card these are the parts left over from one of them so this is the old heatsink for the 980 I and one thing I really want to do is play with this heat sink on the 1080 if it fits and see if there new one actually has any real changes because they've said that it actually performs much better so I want to validate that statement that's the acrylic plate this is the shroud for the 980ti and that was the left side of it and I can actually just do this for you and then that's the right side of it and it mounts together like that with these sort of feet that socket together and then you've got this part of it as well for the front that mounts in there so you've got these two screws that hold this down these two screws that hold these pieces together right here these two screws mount into it looks like not the heatsink but it mounts to something in there and then there are a couple of screws on the underside as well and this if you look at these two it's basically the exact same thing they've just tessellated or they stopped the render process when they're generating the shroud so same mounting points though it all works very similar today we're going to put that away and follow the procedure used for the 980ti which is next going to be to remove the small screw that's right here on the underside of the card so this is starting to get loose now I can feel it beginning to give but it's not released quite yet we need to undo the one at the top here it's the same size allen screw and and then we will be pretty close to pulling this thing completely apart at least for the shroud so you can see my magnetic project mat over here is beginning to get pretty filled in with the plate you'll definitely want to copy that if you do this project yourself because that will help you significantly in reassembling it if something goes wrong you also want to really make sure you're not stripping any screws which is very easily done with these right here I'm not sure if these are magnetic so they not sure what kind of screw but it's a very soft metal for these these smaller head screws so you want to be really careful about not stripping those and our next part of the process you can see this plate is now the acrylic is not loose it's the only thing holding it in there is the force from the the two pieces of the shroud holding it down which we go this answers our earlier question is these screws hold the plate down so that's all those do let's remove these two because I know these two sock it into the the main part of the shroud on the left as we saw with the 980ti once we got these two out and the next two out I think it'll pull apart but I'm not positive I think it's although so the card is obviously still held together somehow I've been pulling on this a little bit and there's obviously a screw in there somewhere normally the the rear i/o area does actually have a screw that's important and there's there's a couple of them some of them need to be removed and some don't need to be removed because we don't actually have to take this this part of the expansion slot out it's just not important for our purposes so I am going to reference the 980ti box again blocks of cannibalized parts from the 980ti and just before you call the PDF eat equivalent for hardware this is actually still a functioning card so let's see we've got here this looks like are all these screws in so all the screws for the nine ATI it looks like I left in or I reinserted for the hybrid block once we installed that and I'm not seeing an obvious reason to remove any of these just from first glance actually if I can see some separation back here oh oh there it goes okay cool so we're actually good to go on the 1080 and see that starting to pull apart so we're just gonna unlock the satisfying unlocking of the 1080 that you can get let's give this nine eighty parts out of here again and just for sake of comparison so they said they changed they're heatsink let's take a look at that and see if they did I'm gonna clean this off a little bit before I found the anti-static mat so here's the old heatsink there's the new on looks like there are actually some changes to it so there's some cosmetic changes and it looks like there are some performance changes but we'll we'll know when we look further into it now I've already done the thermal bench marks on this as part of the review so we know how it performs and it is it's on the chart somewhere you'll see a chart on there in the review but they're pretty close to each other a degree or two I think so we've got a bunch of small screws in here that are holding things down we'll have to be careful about those let's let's get the rest of the shroud apart how is this held on looks like this is still being held on somewhere so I'm going to look for that so I think what I've decided is that these tiny screws are probably holding things together and I do remember taking a bunch of screws like this out of the 980 I previously said they do have to come out at some point to get all the way down to the GPU very small screws that do not misplace these I'm gonna stick them all up in the top corner of my mat and just make a note that these go into the underside of the shroud let's just say this block is for a shroud underside just so I know where those go take this one I'm doing opposing opposing corners again as much as possible anyway there are four screws holding this part of the the card together I'm gonna flip this over now and start preparing to remove the actual heatsink itself which is secured by these four large screws so this is where it's well that is very that's very loose that's kind of curious those aren't bad those are all those are all factory tight this one was pretty loose but we're going to take this apart it is a spring-loaded set of screws do opposing corners because that's applying tension to the PCB and it's pretty pretty low force but it's just better to be safe and not apply any undue force at odd angles to a $700 video card so we've got all of those out I think I just felt that heatsink fall out of the card yes just beginning to fall apart there it goes so there is the new heatsink you can see the thermal compound is on there of course though it's pretty pretty fresh as it is a brand new card pushed out to the sides of it and then in terms of heatsink design are these are actually reasonably different I mean yeah I'm gonna clean this off so if you want to do this yourself you can just get any kind of paper towel and rubbing alcohol and rub that off I actually didn't use any rubbing alcohol looks like it's pretty any new still so there's the new heatsink versus the old the old one is the one right here so that's the old heatsink for the 980ti not the 980 I think the 980 is pretty similar here is a 980 that's assembled for reference and it looks like there's a couple cosmetic changes here I don't know if that really impacts performance or not it's thermal is pretty sensitive so it's certainly possible that an extra channel like that would impact performance but I was looking mostly cosmetic to be honest looks like the rest of its all pretty similar design I know there's a vapor chambers set up in this thing somewhere but we might have to start drilling Trillian stuff apart and cutting holes to find that so to explain this sort of nomenclature bit and video obviously the company Taiwan where it was fab and then it looks like that might be a specific model numbers and they but the GPU itself is GP 104 and it's the subversion - 400 a one is the rev so that is the revision number so a in the hardware industry is used universally as a meaning it's a consumer-ready product as opposed to an ex rev if you saw X 1 what X 1 or X 2 or X 0 means is that it's a it's sort of a lab sample so X is a example it's not really consumer ready that's something that's being tested internally this is a one so obviously ready to go it's a full version of the card it was not some internal version that we were sampled this is actually the retail product but we're ready to take the rest of the shout off now so this thing came loose as I took off the the heatsink so the heatsink was what was keeping this down and pull that off now and that is the container this is actually a good bit different that is the container for the blower fan the previous container is right here so they are got similarities where it matters they've got this enclosure here but that feels like metal enclosure to keep the keep the airflow going where and video wanted it to go which is basically contain it within the card and then this heatsink off to the far right side over here far right side over here is the vrm heatsink I think the voltage regulator module lives under there so let's let's go ahead and finish this teardown process the VRMs under here I want to see what that looks like I want to see what the GDR 5 X memory looks like this is attached as you'll see that's just hot wiring to ground wire and that just powers the LED this is it's backlit if you want to change the LEDs you could come down to this level and start pulling this apart and change your LEDs there where you just paint that part of the card of course it may be easier but let's just go ahead and disconnect that from the board ideally you don't pull on the cables but I don't know if I'm gonna have a better way of doing this without more precision instrument than I've got on the table right now we're gonna go ahead and pull on the cables I would advise against that but we're gonna do that for this video next part looks like a couple screws for the far right side of the shadder far left from my perspective these are our Phillips screws and that's not a big enough screwdrivers I don't want to strip them okay so we've built a new screwdriver to take this out that looks better cool I'm gonna magnetize this like I showed you earlier okay there we go there's the second screw I'm gonna put these on the mats these go inside the fan more or less what's next oh there's that so we just just by accident figured out how to pull this off that is different than the old one the old one I think was adhered to it so there's the little tab that tiny tab just sockets in right here and then there's three of them and you apply downward pressure to get it in there so that's how that comes off as you'll see it a casualty earlier on a $700 video card luckily not a functional part so if you pull those off make sure you do it right none socket this one as well what's left of it anyway alright so that just pulls up and out crazy glue it later so it looks like I'm gonna have to take off the backplate to get to whatever screws are holding down the remainder of this coil this might be too big no it works nice these spins I guarantee you one of these things will get lost these are actually they've got threadlocker on this it's got blue thread lock on it so I guess if you wanted to rebuild it factory for any reason if you're taking one apart make sure you put thread lock on there because that's something they'd notice Oh found it her kid this is basically exactly why you magnetize a screwdriver by the way so here's our last screw I think for the right side of the backplate well that's easy that's just that just slides right off so you kind of pressure there and pull that up there's the underside very shiny no real thermal properties there I'm sure sure does something but I don't know if it's good or bad or notice well what do we have here what are these screws it's like a very tiny allen key so uh for lack of better tools we tried a couple things here try it hex drivers to get these out but I don't have any that are smaller enough I don't know if I have a head of any kind that can get in there I don't know if it's even something that exists but it looks like we can maybe try try some needle nose pliers your lack of something closer that's spinning just like that's spinning spinning so we've got the world's worst solution to taking these out you probably shouldn't do it this way I'm sure there's a poor precision tool but I'd have to walk that you get it cool so there we go that's the first one there's a two three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve thirteen of these that hold off the hold on the the base of the card here so these are underside I hope a bunch of people counts out how they're cringing nice there's several more oh my god I've made a discovery holy crap that's so much easier come out well that's good while it lasted so in the excitement of discovering that this screwdriver had come out and create a much better tool for the job hex driver with the appropriate size one of the screws got sucked in hey come on man I know that this unscrews is it all the same container maybe oh I think it is what there's like three more in there what's in there can you see with your light no really oh let's see if we can get the rest out do this get this part down and figure that out after yeah so now only one can get stuck in the hair cuz there's already one ahead in theory so now it's holding it in gottoms so now it looks like getting to the end of this not all these screws are relevant I believe it might only be this one and maybe one other backplate screw that one certainly is because it's connected right to that black shroud okay might be a that might be it there's your i/o which we could already see but that will allow us to pull and separate the rest of it once we figure out what's still holding it on got this out had to use the hex driver for two other screws and now I think we can finally separate the card that's a lot of thermal pads so I wanna be careful here that's what we've got it looks like for the GTX 1080 proper that's what it looks like I'll leave that we can actually disconnect that really easily lots of thermal pads those are adhered to it looks like the memory and the vrm and that heatsink on the right side was actually over here but the vrm and some of the memory is the all that stuff's over in this area so you got I believe that's our memory chips the gddr5 acts but that's our memory that's our GPU we've got some other stuff going on here vrm set up power header with the pin out over here connected to the board and that pretty much wraps up the 1080 that's it so that's cool so that is it for the GTX 1080 and GP 104 this is not a big Pascal that's GP 100 but it is the first Pascal chip for the consumer audience on the gaming side from the GeForce division of Nvidia really don't point to this other than hey this is what it looks like so that's the the teardown process now almost none of this last half the painful half of the process was necessary to apply the liquid cooler that we're gonna throw on there to do that we actually could have stopped when it was at this stage this is a 980 I you could stop at this stage and this doesn't have all the stupid annoying hex screws on the back but and then you apply the cold plate the block right here where you would apply the heatsink the Alawis heatsink normally so that's it that's what I got for you check back for the liquid cooled version with our overclocking results we're gonna see if we can sustain a higher clock without the same thermal throttling issues that we experienced with the stock cooler for the 1080 as always links the description below for more information patreon link the poster thank you for watching I'll see you all next time