Gadgetory

hey Ron we're back with another hybrid bill this time with the Titan X so we're gonna be tearing this thing down I've already done the thermal tests in part three of this video we'll look at the thermal results of the non torn down version that we this one versus the hybrid version that we're creating ourselves using this EVGA hybrid kit we have a couple of these available and basically just try and mod them onto the cards ourselves if you haven't seen that before so the goal here is to see how much better we can make the thermals because they're pretty high as is stock and to that end can we further increase the overclock with a 1080 we've got an extra hundred mega Hertz out of this thing on the 1080 we'll see if we can replicate that here before getting to that this content is brought to you by Iowa power and their new element gaming PC which has arc LED fans and under glow lighting with a large tempered glass side window and this video is also brought to you by Sam who's one of our viewers and loaned this to us while we were in England I was able to pick it up and bring it back home for about a week so we've got some time to do a hybrid build and see how it works and that's about it let's get into this thing so first of all this video we're gonna take this apart after the teardown we'll build it back up into a hybrid card hopefully and then part three we'll have the results as normally so we can see the thermal impact and all that stuff this is a new tool kit this is not a sponsored tool kit just a new one so we've got a lot of things here I haven't quite used them yet but let's see okay just like the 1080 this uses a ton of really tiny annoying screws that are very easily broken at the shaft so we'll have to try and avoid that this time because it's not my card so I have to care more about it so last few cards give us a false sense of hope and that the 1060 was a pretty easy hybrid build other than the actual building part but the the teardown was pretty easy and this one it looks like we've got a million screws to deal with so got to keep better track of them where they go not quite sure yet depends how this build goes will that will dictate whether or not this thing gets rebuilt as the orig card or if it gets left as a hybrid card and Sam continues to use it that way it just depends on if if it's mountable in a case because as we've done in the past sometimes the hybrid versions have teams running out where the expansion slot is that's fine for it open-air bench just for testing and validation but obviously does not work for home use okay so there's part of the backplate that's the same as the 1080 nothing special here at all it look there's a thermal pad it looks like well that's a very hell is that it's like cloth anyway thermal pad covering that part of the card you can take that off if you wanted to that idea is to allow a better airflow if you were to put these in SLI but really tested to see if that is how it works obviously power headers here six pin eight pin solder points here and then on this part we've got some solder points that are unused for an eight pin if you wanted out this side that's obviously not the case here though and then we can see the vrm is going to be where this is on the other side of the card and we'll we'll look at that once we take the full thing apart okay so there's the second half of the back plate really just it's just a cheap back plate it's really more meant for aesthetic reasons than anything else does just some level of structural support with all those screws but very tiny screws in some cases and has break easily when you're reassembling if not careful as we've shown in the previous video so expansion slot cover thing is still mounted that's got screws on that side this has loosened the heat sink which uses a vapor chamber on this particular card and a blower fan which is over here obviously see that right there so now we've got to get into the underside of the shroud and I'm remembering what a nightmare the 1080 was to take apart so we've got these tiny thins which I believe believe this will fit over yeah so we can use this learn learn that from the 1080 video app sure trying to use pliers to take them off so we can use that to take those off I don't remember what order these come out but doesn't really really matter all that much let's let's get the rest of the expansion cover off we don't need that on there all right so that simplifies things I think it's time to start taking the shroud apart okay this thing's not held on by adhesive I remember that from last time I thought it was held on by adhesive and then snapped ours in half okay so what will come apart and what won't all right there goes that there's the back half of the Shroud mostly no function except one important function these was actually pretty advanced comparatively heatsink we'll talk about that in a minute but these things as you can see they go back in like that the windows under the crowd obviously the main purpose of these functionally outside of the aesthetics part is to guide airflow from this so the window keeps it trapped under there so you don't have you don't have air evacuating from the system before it fully goes through the entire what looks to be aluminum heatsink so aluminum heatsink here's actually Lewis I can take it out in a minute the air comes in the front blows through comes out the back and that's exactly what you want it to do there's the cooler it's a vapor chamber setup no heat pipes but vapor chamber in this instance is going to be better than a heat pipe setup anyway just based on the design of the heat sink in the cooler so that obviously now it's there your air comes in here this is the cold plate I'm not positive if it's just like a nickel plated copper or if it's just straight aluminum but sometimes they they'll nickel plate it although that doesn't make a lot of sense or something you don't see because the main point of nickel plating is for looks not for thermals and obviously there's no exposed copper under the paste so that instantly answers part of that okay so here's the part here's the GPU itself the GP is the shiny bit that's branded as Nvidia made in taiwan' it is GPU GP 102 - 400 so GP just quick refresh GP 102 that is the actual GPU Titan X is not the GPU Titan X is the video card GP 102 is the GPU - 400 is its version of that GPU just like 104 has 106 have 400 200 variants depending on what you're looking at a 1 is the revision a in the industry means that it is a consumer model as opposed to X which is an internal tested model and NVIDIA branding around it you've got those super tiny capacitors on the substrate the green bits the substrate and then this metal plate is probably just for structural integrity so that's the GPU ideally we leave the backplate or I should say the base plate another back plate ideally we leave the base plate on here and then mount the cooler to that as that would help us continue to cool the vram and the RM without requiring additional copper to be mounted to the card which is kind of a pain to do and not always effective but we'll see how this goes we'll take a pic take apart the rest first and look at it so we're gonna take apart the base plate just at least look at the card if nothing else this is the other side of the shroud because over here helps direct airflow with this and then that is the LED power so this cable is covered in electrical tape here and connects to the LED and that's really it that's all that does so let's just get all this out of the way if it were my card just pull on it pull on it until it comes off okay so let's go ahead and start taking apart the underside so again the objective would be to leave this base plate on here for thermal reasons we are going to take it off just to look at the card and then hopefully it doesn't have too much complexity to just get back on there and leave it there with the cooler the only reason that wouldn't work is if the like with the what was it the 1060 if we have an issue where that's just not gonna fit because it's too wide in that case then we do we just take it off around the tasks and maybe put some aftermarket theorem and vrm everyone this happened last time oh that seems to happen with the 1080 and Titan X specifically so that's that's good that's a hot now we can you can ignore that just do like last time just unscrewed most the way and then leave okay that was a pain in the ass here we go we've got VRAM modules let's pull it this way so for the board some missing circuitry over here a couple missing spots that have not been filled probably for cost reasons just to need it or something like that and GPU proper vram so two four six eight ten twelve of those is twelve gigabytes so that means they're one gigabyte modules or eight Giga bits it's normally how they are actually listed and sold and these are made by micron as one would expect so this is gddr5 X as with the 1080 and micron is the only current known manufacturer of gddr5 X so that's what the memory is this is the vrm MOSFETs capacitor bank and it looks like it is a two-phase memory it's either a two or three phase memory vrm and then seven or eight phase core vrm depending on what's going on the rest of the board it's a pretty extensive vrm set up based on what we saw with the 1080 but it's still not sure how far you'd get on that if you were at extremely overclocked or something like that but for our purposes this is just fine because we're not gonna be bypassing any electrical restrictions or short aden shunts and things like that so that's the set up of the board I think that pretty much covers all the core stuff this is the fan or we've got a fan and an LED header that's what these are that's for the fan is PWM controlled by the needs of the GPU based on temperature led you had are pretty simple so that's that's the basic as a board as far as cooling already talked about the vapor chamber setup that's what this is and this is the rest of the cooling solution so you've got the fan here that's screwed in through the under that's what this screw is here and there's only two more probably under this pad as well this pad is covering the vrm I see can you even see the imprint there of the MOSFETs the inductors are the chokes which is what these things are these are 22 labelled conductors are what protrude through here those can withstand very high heat it's basically coiled wire in there and the kind of like a ferrite core on a camera charger this is the thermal pad for the capacitor bank vram thermal pads one's missing that's because it's still on the module and then these other thermal pads here for the rest of the components around the board including the vram vrm which was confusing to figure out the organization of letters in my head in part two we'll build this into a hybrid card that means running mounting a liquid cooler to it again gonna try and keep keep the backplate the base plate and mount this to the base plate if it does not work we'll go like this and figure out a solution for the rest of it just with copper and things that we have around and then we've got some copper shims if we need them as well in the event that the GPU is not tall enough to exceed the height of the base plates sort of recessed bracket so that's it as always pay traveling the post roll video make sure you subscribe so you see part two where we build it up as I've made clear in the past these videos are not tutorials don't tear down your card based on these videos or build one up necessarily now once we get to the results we can show you how well normally liquid works we'll see if that it remains the case here it was the case with 1080 1060 and the rx 480 and I should imagine would remain the case here it just depends on how difficult it is to mount the liquid cooler to it but when we see these reduced thermals which really should happen we'd normally go down to sub 20 degrees C so somewhere in the 16 C to 20 C range that's a delta value so you add it in with ambient to maybe 20 Celsius here in the 40s versus adding with ambient in the 80s with the reference cooler so pretty significant difference and it does remove the issue of thermal throttling at certain thresholds they on the cards like 85 86 Celsius for this card it'll throttle its clock you leave some performance you have some frame reduction in the 1% 0.1% lose area but that's all stuff we'll talk about in the last video so thank you for watching as I said a moment ago links to description below patreon link emotional video all that stuff and they give it to Sam for letting us borrow this card I'll see you all next time