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Delidding AMD's R3 2200G APU & Liquid Metal (Pt. 1/2)

2018-02-13
today we're going to be deleting the Rison our 320 200 G APU we already did some content on this like the discussion on the sleep timer bug which was in fact not talking about liquid nitrogen scores that needs to be said so we're gonna be deleting this today as I understand it this APU and the other one the 24 out of G actually use thermal paste instead of solder so that's a bit different for AMD these are low end parts so in terms of making it cheaper that does make sense I think we're just gonna try and heat this thing up in the test bench and then cut it with a razor basically around the edges and see if it comes open and then from there we'll be able to do some liquid metal testing so this may be a two part video part one's probably this and then part two will be the thermal testing although they may go up out of order we'll see before we get into that this video is sponsored by Dollar Shave Club makers of the new five dollar shower shave starter set the kit includes the Dollar Shave Club executive razor bearing the EPS of any high-quality tool and also includes reloadable cartridges the five dollar kit includes everything you see on the screen now like the body wash and shave butter and can be refilled for a few dollars a month this deal is available for $5 exclusively using our link below or dollarshaveclub.com slash gamers Nexus okay so the plan here I don't have a heat gun we can go buy one but what I'm gonna try first is putting it in the test batch with no cooler and letting it heat up to t.j.maxx is 95 so we'll let it heat up to there pull it out and see if that's enough to get it somewhat malleable under there so that we can try to deal it'd that's the plan and if that doesn't work I'll grab a heat gun hopefully somewhere local see if this even lets me boot without a cooler temperature 51 okay well it's getting hot okay let's call it the hair I think that 65% correct so I want to pull this out and see if we can get this started now my colleagues at a at pro high tech Russian site we've worked with them a few times in the past I believe they already did this and they used a heat gun and a vise and I have one of those and I get the other one so that proves better we'll do that I think I'm also gonna be on their channel for a discussion on something for anyone who speaks Russian I guess which I don't okay so this is we have some kind of adhesive along the edges it's very hot to hold right now and I think we have a shot of what the adhesive looks like so all I'm doing is trying to cut that without also cutting myself and that the risk here is that if you like push this in too far you can hit SM DS like our surface mount devices like capacitors or resistors things like that and kill it we're down to the APU so we're gonna be a bit cautious so this is what I'm trying to do this exact or whatever it is not if I'm just shoving the razor blade just under the silicon adhesive and above the substrate and we're gonna try not scratch the substrate obviously or slide too far under the IHS and damaged stuff so right now my objective is just loosening the adhesive definitely getting so funny adhesive out of there okay a little more and then I'm gonna heat it up again oh there's a little bit of play but not much let's see what protected it's weird they don't like really show a lot of the process no a rag that's smart it looks like this one's clamping the substrate and this one's I think we just got it you see that separated a little bit on the top hopefully I didn't damage the substrate or anything in the process oh yeah that's definitely look at that sweet that's exciting now there's still risk that I destroyed something so let's try try and be cautiously optimistic here it might not be functional after this and it could have hidden SMD could have damaged the substrate of pins there's a lot of variables but it's only $100 so it's two sides that are loose all I'm doing now is lifting it up on the loose corner and then using the knife to get it up in the other corners there goes okay here we go okay now time to see if we destroyed it okay well that looks promising let's bring it back up and see if it works okay so it was deleted successfully well we think happened yet and there's your thermal compound so it is in fact easy if they're all pasted not that that was really any question at this point and also interestingly the IHS inside has a bit of a raise up to meet the die so we're just gonna clean this off I'm going to clean this silicon adhesive off the sides you know we probably should just try and boot and see if it even turns on first before we go in full liquid metal so let's do that first I'm just going to all I'm going to do is reassemble this as it's meant to be put it in the system hold my thumb on the IHS and see if it turns on and I'm gonna hit with there first make sure there's no metal fragments or anything like that not that there should be but finn's like okay that's the advantage of PGA is that it is actually very durable so the way to remember this socket is that dot in the corner aligns with the triangle here so it'll actually just go on like that it doesn't need to go back the same way that's pretty important let's see if it boots I need to plug in the display before I scare myself and think it doesn't work oh he definitely got a sirs logo come on BIOS okay yep we got a white LED I need to shut this down it's getting too hot yeah okay good enough for me hopefully that's enough to know that it still works just start with the compound I just turned into a rock at this point it looks pretty damn good okay so this thrown paste can become part of my plug gamers Nexus anti-static mod mat available at store that gamers Nexus Don that slash this you have to be a bit more careful with ideally not use a fingernail to get compound out but whatever okay I had chest thickness turned it off three point one five millimeters thick that's 17 maybe it's like 17.5 or something 17.5 by maybe 9 or 10 somewhere in there alright so let's do this let's put liquid metal on here and get it into a test bench and see how it performs so I'm gonna use thermal grisly conduct or not there's a lot of I've been using this one a lot so there's already some kind of spilled out I might even be able to use what's already on here too yeah for sure I don't even have to get any out of the tube okay so this stuff's worked reliably you know what we also need to scrape some of this so it's kind of adhesive off so what's the order operations here definitely scrape adhesive first I can I typically leave it on the substrate and just pull it off of the IHS with Intel because that's sufficient there's like a one to three degree difference beyond that so let me get all this off here first then we'll do the liquid metal wow that's awesome normally I can't get away with that on Intel stuff I think there's goes on a little thicker maybe what's that subreddit mildly satisfying or something like that I think that I think this constitutes a post there okay that's good this one I might leave alone I typically leave it alone on this layer as a guide it's a little bit thicker towards the edge here so I'm an up removing that but I think we're good though okay so the plan is liquid metal alright cool pretty good so this is to protect the surface mount components from spillover if the liquid metal spills over and contacts these are can short it typically that's not deadly it'll just fail the boot you might smell some smoke but most likely it's fine and it'll just I'll just electrically short and fail to poop boot or have issues with weird behaviors things like that so by covering these nail polish you do need to check your ingredients make sure it's not gonna hurt anything we've written articles about that in the past but covering it with the right kind of nail polish will protect it from spillover it creates kind of a moat or a wall and then if there is any spillover it's not going to connect this I'm D it'll connect to the I'll polish which point were basically protected okay that's pretty good alright that's looking pretty damn good it's not too liquidy it's not too much pretty thin layer so yeah it looks good there might be a bit of spillover I'm not sure how this is will behave with liquid metal because it's got this protrusion that will come down and meet the dye presumably I'll push a bit of it off the sides but that's okay we got some protection on it so it should be alright and now for resealing so just gonna get the dust off the pins and we're using the the old silicon adhesive as a guide again tends to be pretty small effect on thermals all right I think we're good okay looks good okay time to test it so that's it that's our D letting process for the r3 2200 a PU and we have the 2400 G that just came in that's 2200 I already ran all the pre dismantling thermal tests so we have all the thermal paste data now I just need to run it with that liquid metal the thermal grisly conduct now it's what we're using see how it does if it even works and and we'll be back with a second video with all the results should be filming today so you'll see it pretty soon well you may even see it before this part I don't know depends on our findings so oh yeah check back make sure you subscribe because we have lots of cool content like this coming up for these AP us and other content for just kind of some mods I have ideas for and patreon.com/scishow and exits tell us that directly you go to store that Cameron's Nexus dotnet to pick up a shirt like this one or one of our mod mats on backorder thank you for watching I'll see you all next time
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