Delidding AMD's R3 2200G APU & Liquid Metal (Pt. 1/2)
Delidding AMD's R3 2200G APU & Liquid Metal (Pt. 1/2)
2018-02-13
today we're going to be deleting the
Rison our 320 200 G APU
we already did some content on this like
the discussion on the sleep timer bug
which was in fact not talking about
liquid nitrogen scores that needs to be
said so we're gonna be deleting this
today as I understand it this APU and
the other one the 24 out of G actually
use thermal paste instead of solder so
that's a bit different for AMD these are
low end parts so in terms of making it
cheaper that does make sense I think
we're just gonna try and heat this thing
up in the test bench and then cut it
with a razor basically around the edges
and see if it comes open and then from
there we'll be able to do some liquid
metal testing so this may be a two part
video part one's probably this and then
part two will be the thermal testing
although they may go up out of order
we'll see before we get into that this
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okay so the plan here I don't have a
heat gun we can go buy one but what I'm
gonna try first is putting it in the
test batch with no cooler and letting it
heat up to t.j.maxx is 95 so we'll let
it heat up to there pull it out and see
if that's enough to get it somewhat
malleable under there so that we can try
to deal it'd that's the plan and if that
doesn't work I'll grab a heat gun
hopefully somewhere local see if this
even lets me boot without a cooler
temperature 51 okay
well it's getting hot okay let's call it
the hair I think that 65% correct so I
want to pull this out and see if we can
get this started now my colleagues at a
at pro high tech Russian site we've
worked with them a few times in the past
I believe they already did this and they
used a heat gun and a vise and I have
one of those and I get the other one so
that proves better we'll do that I think
I'm also gonna be on their channel for a
discussion on something for anyone who
speaks Russian I guess which I don't
okay so this is we have some kind of
adhesive along the edges it's very hot
to hold right now and I think we have a
shot of what the adhesive looks like so
all I'm doing is trying to cut that
without also cutting myself and that the
risk here is that if you like push this
in too far you can hit SM DS like our
surface mount devices like capacitors or
resistors things like that and kill it
we're down to the APU so we're gonna be
a bit cautious so this is what I'm
trying to do this exact or whatever it
is not if I'm just shoving the razor
blade just under the silicon adhesive
and above the substrate and we're gonna
try not scratch the substrate obviously
or slide too far under the IHS and
damaged stuff so right now my objective
is just loosening the adhesive
definitely getting so funny adhesive out
of there
okay a little more and then I'm gonna
heat it up again oh there's a little bit
of play but not much let's see what
protected it's weird they don't like
really show a lot of the process no a
rag that's smart
it looks like this one's clamping the
substrate and this one's
I think we just got it you see that
separated a little bit on the top
hopefully I didn't damage the substrate
or anything in the process
oh yeah that's definitely look at that
sweet that's exciting now there's still
risk that I destroyed something so let's
try try and be cautiously optimistic
here it might not be functional after
this and it could have hidden SMD could
have damaged the substrate of pins
there's a lot of variables but it's only
$100 so it's two sides that are loose
all I'm doing now is lifting it up on
the loose corner and then using the
knife to get it up in the other corners
there goes okay here we go
okay now time to see if we destroyed it
okay well that looks promising let's
bring it back up and see if it works
okay so it was deleted successfully well
we think happened yet and there's your
thermal compound so it is in fact easy
if they're all pasted not that that was
really any question at this point and
also interestingly the IHS inside has a
bit of a raise up to meet the die so
we're just gonna clean this off I'm
going to clean this silicon adhesive off
the sides you know we probably should
just try and boot and see if it even
turns on first before we go in full
liquid metal so let's do that first I'm
just going to all I'm going to do is
reassemble this as it's meant to be put
it in the system hold my thumb on the
IHS and see if it turns on and I'm gonna
hit with there first make sure there's
no metal fragments or anything like that
not that there should be but
finn's like okay that's the advantage of
PGA is that it is actually very durable
so the way to remember this socket is
that dot in the corner aligns with the
triangle here so it'll actually just go
on like that it doesn't need to go back
the same way that's pretty important
let's see if it boots I need to plug in
the display before I scare myself and
think it doesn't work oh he definitely
got a sirs logo
come on BIOS okay yep we got a white LED
I need to shut this down it's getting
too hot yeah okay good enough for me
hopefully that's enough to know that it
still works just start with the compound
I just turned into a rock at this point
it looks pretty damn good okay so this
thrown paste can become part of my plug
gamers Nexus anti-static mod mat
available at store that gamers Nexus Don
that slash this you have to be a bit
more careful with ideally not use a
fingernail to get compound out but
whatever okay I had chest thickness
turned it off three point one five
millimeters thick
that's 17 maybe it's like 17.5 or
something 17.5 by maybe 9 or 10
somewhere in there
alright so let's do this let's put
liquid metal on here and get it into a
test bench and see how it performs so
I'm gonna use thermal grisly conduct or
not there's a lot of I've been using
this one a lot so there's already some
kind of spilled out I might even be able
to use what's already on here too
yeah for sure I don't even have to get
any out of the tube okay so this stuff's
worked reliably you know what we also
need to scrape some of this so it's kind
of adhesive off so what's the order
operations here definitely scrape
adhesive first I can I typically leave
it on the substrate and just pull it off
of the IHS with Intel because that's
sufficient there's like a one to three
degree difference beyond that so let me
get all this off here first then we'll
do the liquid metal wow that's awesome
normally I can't get away with that on
Intel stuff
I think there's goes on a little thicker
maybe
what's that subreddit mildly satisfying
or something like that I think that I
think this constitutes a post there okay
that's good this one I might leave alone
I typically leave it alone on this layer
as a guide it's a little bit thicker
towards the edge here so I'm an up
removing that but I think we're good
though okay so the plan is liquid metal
alright cool
pretty good so this is to protect the
surface mount components from spillover
if the liquid metal spills over and
contacts these are can short it
typically that's not deadly it'll just
fail the boot you might smell some smoke
but most likely it's fine
and it'll just I'll just electrically
short and fail to poop boot or have
issues with weird behaviors things like
that so by covering these nail polish
you do need to check your ingredients
make sure it's not gonna hurt anything
we've written articles about that in the
past but covering it with the right kind
of nail polish will protect it from
spillover it creates kind of a moat or a
wall and then if there is any spillover
it's not going to connect this I'm D
it'll connect to the
I'll polish which point were basically
protected okay that's pretty good
alright that's looking pretty damn good
it's not too liquidy it's not too much
pretty thin layer so yeah it looks good
there might be a bit of spillover I'm
not sure how this is will behave with
liquid metal because it's got this
protrusion that will come down and meet
the dye presumably I'll push a bit of it
off the sides but that's okay we got
some protection on it so it should be
alright
and now for resealing so just gonna get
the dust off the pins and we're using
the the old silicon adhesive as a guide
again tends to be pretty small effect on
thermals all right I think we're good
okay looks good
okay time to test it so that's it that's
our D letting process for the r3 2200 a
PU and we have the 2400 G that just came
in
that's 2200 I already ran all the pre
dismantling thermal tests so we have all
the thermal paste data now I just need
to run it with that liquid metal the
thermal grisly conduct now it's what
we're using see how it does if it even
works and and we'll be back with a
second video with all the results should
be filming today so you'll see it pretty
soon well you may even see it before
this part I don't know depends on our
findings so oh yeah check back make sure
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these AP us and other content for just
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I'll see you all next time
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