hey Ron we're at EVGA --zz offices in
Brea Brea California is not too far from
industries that's where we visited some
of the other folks you've seen videos or
articles out of and I've got in front of
me an EVGA a 1080 classified card so
this we haven't seen since Computex
we're actually gonna do I think I think
it's not too hard to tear down so we're
gonna do a quick teardown on site I
don't have my normal tool kit but we're
gonna take it apart and see what the PCB
looks like things like that with a
cooler it looks like this card on the
surface so some of the core things to
note the FTW hybrid would be the other
high-end card that is semi comparable to
this this one is also a 2+2 8 pin power
header setup but it does two 45 Watts
versus 215 Watts maximum power draw on
the hybrid so that's a major difference
and then the vrm is a bit different as
we'll see in a moment PCB is a bit
larger but otherwise they're both fairly
high-end cards and this one does have an
AC X 3.0 cooler on it so should be
decent for free cooling as far as air
goes in terms of the assembly the back
plates all held on by Phillips screws as
you might expect you can see the four
spring tension screws for the cooler
itself and then on the top side there
are technically Allen keyed screws in
there as well but those just hold on
kind of the accessories so the EVGA
plate and I think they also if you look
in here we might have a shot of that I
think they also show the or secure the
LEDs to the faceplate of the card just
from looking at it so I think that's
what we're working with for the tools
and other than that it's gonna be fairly
straightforward so we'll just jump in
and tear it down now this is what we
normally cut together just a lot of a
lot of unscrewing
I guess I can note there is next to the
screwdriver right now there's an Ln two
and a normal switch performs the same
function as the master slave switch on
the hybrid FTW hybrid basically if you
go into the ellentube mode you end up
with a hundred and thirty percent power
target max through precision or whatever
software you want to use as opposed to
one twenty so that's what that does I
think we've got all of the screws out
see if there's also some probit voltage
reading stuff up in the top up or over
here somewhere up there if you want to
plug in a multimeter or something like
that and there's an Eevee bot header so
if you have the old EVGA evbot hardware
you can plug that in for some additional
voltage analysis or control it's really
in there no this is it so this scrim on
right now has a washer which I somehow
got with that drop in and I think it's
no that's it's just a washer for some
reason
very tiny washer you ready
maybe not oh they all have little like
washes on them or something I can just
leave them in yeah okay so top corner up
here there's a little nut on the other
side you can just hold on to it there's
like a lot of these if not all of them
have some kind of a small washer on them
so rather than pulling it off of all of
the all the screws I'm just gonna leave
them mostly in the back plate so that's
that's what we have there there's an
example of the small washers that are on
most these are actually they're not of
washers they are it's just adhesive so
it's not even a washer just sticky
adhesive which is why these two which
three or four that got left on here you
can see it's just a black cover
basically I guess to prevent direct
contact from the screw doesn't really do
anything functionally but that is there
some leftover adhesive here and we can
see the back side now I think all that's
left is to do a couple these other
underline screws that were under the
back plate and then get to the cooler
three screws for the backside under the
back plate all the back plate screws
over here
yeah there's for spring screws and then
it looks like the face plate can
separate from the cooler too okay so
that should separate now fan cable
they're an LED cable on here - yes
trying to avoid pulling by the cable but
not really not really working with me
okay okay cool
there's one that is led LED and fan much
easier okay cool
that's pretty advanced air cooler so we
have one two three four five
how many heat pipes is that that's a lot
of heat pipes but uh at least five heat
pipes see one two three four five and
then there's another one right here that
doesn't go through to this side so
that's six heat pipes and with the six
heat pipes I'm assuming nickel-plated
for the copper so that's a copper cold
plate that's nickel-plated it looks that
way anyway these are probably nickel
plated aluminum fins almost definitely
and then you can see some solder points
or something on the heat pipe here but
so basically held together like that the
cooler itself goes on the card something
like this so this is how it lines up
with the PCB if you look at the PCB on
the cooler it shows a few things mostly
that the the chokes here are the
inductors which are actually a different
kind of inductor I haven't seen this
generation those go in the slotted part
in here accompanied by the capacitor
banks so there's your capacitor banks
and was that is that more capacitors
MOSFETs things like that capacitors or
inductors so for the the phases it's a
14 plus three-phase power design and
it's 14 V Core 3 for the memory in
theory you get a little more stable
voltage I guess I'm not sure if it's
using
any doublers or quadruplets or anything
how does this come off it was it's
already loose do you care about the
thermal pads the thermal pads are so
sticky that they actually have the
micron logo and the vram the text from
the vram on the thermal pad so probably
fairly high quality adhesive at least if
not their whole conductivity itself is
out of the way a bit
so there's your vram this is a 1080 so
it's the same as every other one just to
recap these are micron chips they are
gddr5 x they hit about 10 gigabits per
second or so and they are eight gigabit
chips so one gigabyte purged for purpose
a module not chips but so two four six
eight gigabytes total as every 1080 will
be and then for any further analysis
really on the PCB we'd have to get
billed to it on that because he is the
expert but I can tell you fourteen plus
three phases and then what's going on
here
I will ask builds item we'll put a title
card in this video these I think might
be doublers the main benefit of having
doublers like this is that it spreads
out the heat over a larger area so that
would make sense to get 14 phases but
that is the EVGA 1080 classified as far
as double or quadruple airs or whatever
it doesn't really necessarily mean a
whole lot you can watch our
gigabyte ft or our gigabyte PCB analysis
in our FTW hybrid PCB analysis both
talked about doublers quadruple errs and
how these things actually come together
and what it all means and if it
if it has any impact on quality so
that's the board fairly large board the
extra pins you have there's evbot
where's that it come off with the thing
oh yeah so Evie bots up here and all the
other stuff we've already talked about
so if you have further questions or you
want any any other information the
article links in description below as
always pretty straightforward process if
you wanted to do this for some reason
like to put it under liquid that would
be the the main reason would be to put
this under an open loop or something
like that if you wanted to do a closed
loop you might as well buy the FTW
hybrid because it it will effectively do
the same thing I guess this would be a
slightly higher quality board to put
under an AIO loop but you probably won't
gain a whole lot in terms of
overclocking potential but if you're
buying this anyway then that's one
option I suppose so that is the card as
always patriotic the post roll video
links the description below subscribe
for more information I'll see you all
next time
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