Gadgetory

in order to hit the $500 price point for RTX 20 70s manufacturers had to cut a lot of corners and we might talk about that more later and it's not really the manufacturers the board partners to blame on this foley because there are reasons working with nvidia that they do have to meet those $500 price points and so what we're doing today is we're looking at what's the difference between a $500 MSRP card like the 20 70 black from EVGA and a good one a $550 card now that the black version is fine but an extra 50 bucks does get you a whole lot more cooler it goes from two slots into point seven slots and the fan profile is quite different you'll see that in our review if you're curious the BRM is different the PCB is significantly larger there's more stuff on there and these things are just thermocouples ignore those we're gonna reclaim those later so there's a big difference between a cheap $500 cooler and totally like this and we'll talk about this more later I suppose but it does largely come down to the way NVIDIA has structured this launch and the need to have $500 price target cards this time and not have everything be way over the advertised MSRP like you saw for the 2080 TI and the 2080 so let's take it apart and see what's inside before that this video is brought to you by us and the limited edition foil Graf logo shirt this four color foil shirt is the iconic GN Graf logo with average 1% and point 1% bar colors it's printed on a soft high-quality and custom made 100% cotton shirt and is available on store dye Karen's Nexus night until stock runs out once it's gone we will not be making more of these shirts we sold out within two weeks of our previous limited-edition shirts so click on the link below to preorder now so this teardown is pretty straightforward first of all you need the cards 20 70 XE ultra for this and we're working with just two primary screwdrivers it's just a larger Phillips and the smaller Phillips for the screws in the back plate these are all one size and then we're working on our GN mod mat which is on stored at gaming section that if you want to pick up one of those and these wires sticking out these are just for k-type thermocouple x' that we smash in there for thermal testing so those obviously do not come included although we wouldn't be opposed to it it would save some money so we're gonna reclaim those in the process of tearing this down it's a pretty standard EVGA backplate design one major upside from previous from the 10 series is they're no longer mixed in and actually one of the XE ultra on the 28 ET I did this they're no longer mixing the the actual like screw head size where sometimes they'll have three that are much smaller and you have these different size bit on them which is unnecessary and very annoying so they're not doing that here pretty straightforward we've bunch of these to take out then actually know what we can stop in the middle of this so I can show you something if we take out just the four cooler screws first I was doing all of them cuz we're gonna take it all apart anyway but if we do the four cooler screws you'll see just how easy this card is to take apart as we found out when we put the thermocouples on them so let's get the last two okay so the screws removed so far for the backplate are irrelevant removing these four will instantly free the cooler and you get this piece this is just like a cable cover it doesn't do anything so you get that off disconnect the cable and it does have an awful lot of pins in it but it's it's fairly safe to pull out we would still recommend doing it a bit safer than either there that's all it takes to get the cooler off which is really nice we don't typically see them that easy to work with so four screws to service the cooler and the thermal paste big props to EVGA for making that easy it's on there secure enough that they don't really need more screws than that so pretty straightforward for that part which makes servicing the card exceptionally easy and that is a good thing for people who want the ability to easily replace their own paste later if you're going to try and improve it as the paste cures or something like that this one threads into a knot on the other side just pull both those okay so screw count in the back side is gonna be sat them up 1 2 3 4 6 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 20 screws in the backside not too bad but we do have to take off some other parts as well and we'll get to those so first of all the back plate does have a lot of thermal pads on it we have a test for throat for the back plate there's no back plate in the review if you're curious what the difference is it's not a lot it'll definitely do something under some conditions but not the conditions we tested in and we have seen times with back way toward actually is significant we've seen times where it's completely irrelevant whether they make contact either way though making contact to a metal backplate is certainly better than being hotbox that's just down there with no thermal pads so that's a good thing to see even if it doesn't do a whole lot for GPU VR a more memory cool and it doesn't do negative things and that's good and then topside we can't remove the base plate just yet first we need to remove three screws that are hidden in the back those are right there so it's these three the rest of them can remain in there all these i/o screws can remain just need to pull those out okay so there's there's three and now the part that was securing is right here so this can be easily removed and that's connected to the base plate yes okay okay so we've reclaimed the thermocouples and now I can show you the rest of the board looks awfully familiar looks pretty similar to a twenty eighty F EE PCB and that makes sense because it's an actually ultra cooler that's on the 20 AT&T ICS as well maybe was easier to transplant that way but either way thermal pads everywhere as he BGA tends to do and the big thing here on their baseplate is that they are now doing a a heat pipe under here which we can reveal with a spudger so under here this thermal pad that connects to the MOSFETs and some of the capacitors adjacent to the MOSFETs you will see a nickel plated copper heat pipe there it is and this is a kind of a new thing that GPU or video card board partners are doing lately it's not new new but it's something that hasn't been on cards in this class before so that's measuring at 11 millimeters on the calipers which in reality is is probably about 10 tip is the typical size for these there we go so it's about 10 millimeters after rezero in it and it's really short heat pipe so doesn't doesn't affect a whole lot just the most important part which is the MOSFETs and most likely to get the hottest anyway and then next to that you've got your inductor line plate and this is just a nickel plated copper plate it does not have a heat pipe in it but it is attached to the heat pipe adjacent to then doctors just pull some of this up so this surface and bumps up a little bit there for clearance and also to connect the heat pipe with another surface and leave them both roughly the same height so that's that's the primary part of the cooling for the vrm and then vram cool lines all around there the board itself it does move - to power headers and you can see they block out one of them rather than the single power header on the original 27t that we looked at then for components it is micron memory on this particular model there's no guarantee that's on all of them there's a controller over here which is a you p95 one to p95 12 p builds wait has talked about this part I believe for the MOSFETs they are on semi 31 70s which look familiar for this generation as well and that's for all of them so that's where all the MOSFETs here they're all 31 70 on semi MOSFETs and for that we have a set of 2 4 6 8 10 of them so we're on an 8 +2 4 actually is pretty easy to see by just the chalk labeling to see these 47s that's going to be your memory BRM and there's the two-phase for that so two-phase memory VR I'm above the screwdriver and then we have 2 4 6 8 phase of the vcore below the screwdriver and those are all the same 31 70 parts other parts controllers on the back yeah this is this is basically a 28 EFV PCB so on the back same parts we've seen for this generation you p95 one two I think that wraps up the board components so there's really not a whole lot to this PCB that we haven't already seen because it is basically one we've already seen shunt resistors if you care there's a shunt resistor down here where you see that 5 milli ohm are zero zero five five million resistor and there should be another one somewhere Oh two more so we've got three let's just figure out what those where those go to in case anyone wants to shunt mod their car card not their car there are three so one's gonna go to PCIe it's probably this one and then the other two will go to the power but let's just figure it out so we're gonna take a 12 volt on six and eight pin it's the same thing all they add is a sense and a ground on the eights so we're gonna take one of the yellow pins that'll be on the inside line of the pin out and then match that against the shunt resistor and this is foun our mod mad on store docking with excess net if you think that would be useful for you to have so let's measure them and see which ones are continuous that is not oh there we go wasn't connected fully there so this is continuous with that one so we've got the center shunt resistor down here that along with the red probe that is continuous with the six pin and then just to make sure that these obviously aren't that when it clearly is not that one clearly is not so there's as suspected or not connected to that one so the middle one goes to the six pin and then probably the top one goes to eight yes so top one goes to the eight pin which you can see cuz we're getting more or less zero ohm so it is a continuous circuit and just to prove a point this one open loop or open line so that is going to be continuous with the PCIe slot if you do short your shots don't shunt the short the bottom shot because you don't want to pull more power through the PCIe slot but pulling more through these is okay just be careful how you do go about shorting it so the last thing here is what's on the die and the answer to that is it's a tu 106 - 400 a that's the important part the a after the 400 and then a 1 the reason the a at the end of 400 is important is because there are sort of two sub SKUs of the r-tx 2070 there's the 400 and then the 400 a the 400 is the one we saw on the original 20 70 black edition which is the $500 card the 400 a is going to be bend slightly higher by Nvidia so it's a pre-sorted GPU that's supposed to be a higher quality piece of silicon and theoretically therefore overclocks higher and there's a quality difference there there's a price difference there and video doesn't give that to manufacturers for free they pay a premium for the a suffix and a one at the end is just revision number so it's specifically not a one what you need to look for is 400 a or not a this one is 400 a the base frequency for this operating in our review is about 1935 megahertz whereas the 400 model for the 20 Saudi black it's about 1800 megahertz so massive difference there part of that is power delivery part of it is the pre-sorting of the GPU on the XE ultra that we have here so something that might be useful for you in buying cards that's it for this one as always you can go to store documents access dotnet to pick up our mod mat that we use in this video or our limited edition shirt while it's still in stock patreon.com slash cameras action stops out directly and subscribe for more I'll see you all next time