EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin PCB Review & Samsung vs. Micron
EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin PCB Review & Samsung vs. Micron
2019-03-31
hey guys build Zoid here from actually
hardcore overclocking and today we're
gonna be taking a look at the RT X xx
atti kingpin kingpin edition from EVGA
this is the as far as I'm concerned the
perfect RT X 20 80 TI PCB it's so
perfect in fact that I really wish in
video would allow EVGA to make Titans
but that's never gonna happen before
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description below let's get right into
it because there's just so much stuff to
cover on this thing that that's really
interesting that you know we need to get
through this so then starting off with
the VR I'm probably in my opinion the
the least interesting part of this card
because we've seen so many high-end RT X
xx atti
it's always very similar it's not
necessarily the same thing but it is
very similar you have a V curve erm that
it's split into two parts
normally with six power stages on that
side 10 power stages on this side and
the thing is you know some some of the
cards out there they'll opt for like
eight power stages on this side and well
the founders Edition goes to seven and
there's a couple cards that like there's
one card that goes to eight and then
everybody else goes to ten on this side
and then six on the other well except
gigabyte where gigabyte goes to eight on
this side and then eight on the other
side as well the top cards end up with
16 power stages in there in there v
curve erm above the right side well yeah
right side V curve erm we find the
memory of erm so V mom up here that's a
three phase which is standard as well
we've got a 1.8 volt rail and a pecs
rail in this area I'm not sure which
ones which because they both do well
they're both similar regulators they
don't push
whole lot of power and they both kind of
don't matter so like well no they matter
in the sense that they would like if
these weren't present the card won't run
but they don't really do anything for
overclocking the pecs rail is well pecs
rail sometimes helps when you're on
liquid nitrogen but the 1.8 volts rail
never does anything as that's a
supporting voltage for the GDD r6 like
the only reason why you'd ever want to
raise the 1.8 volts rail is if for some
reason you're running like 1.8 volts
memory voltage but at that point I would
probably I'd expect the memory
controller to die so again not really a
useful like not a realistic use case
either that 1.8 volts might also blow up
the memory chips though memory chips
didn't to be really really robust and is
usually the memory controllers that go
that go first
anyway so yeah it also powers things
like the BIOS chips which run off of 1.8
volts as well so we have those miner
rails somewhere in this area on the card
there's going to be 5 volts regulator
because of course these are smart power
stages and they do not run on 12 or 3.3
volts so there needs to be a 5 volts
regulator somewhere on the card to power
those alright pretty much that's pretty
much the top top level overview over the
various voltage regulators on the card
now then let's take a you know go into
more detail on the V Corps and the
memory of URM because those are the one
they'd like the only ones you really
need to care about that much even those
aren't that special so we have an MP
2888 voltage controller for the V curve
erm and we also have another MP 2088 for
the for the memory of erm this is made
by monolithic power systems so you know
they make power stages they make
controllers and they actually make some
pretty advanced controllers so this
thing is fully digital goes up to ten
phases five megahertz switching
frequency which is way more than you're
ever gonna use because I'm not aware of
any power stages or MOSFETs that well
Massa you can probably find his grete
MOSFETs that would do that they probably
wouldn't handle a practical amount of
power that's kind of the issue if you
want to mosfet that can switch a lot of
current it tends to be kind of slow so
it can go up to five megahertz but EVGA
is using it in the
100 to 600 kilohertz range which
basically the switching frequency it
affects your output regulation for the
vrm essentially higher switching
frequency reduces your output ripple but
the other thing is higher switching
frequencies can also negatively impact
your vrm efficiency depending on what
kind of power stages you're using and
how the rest of the vrm is designed so
yeah that's why they decide to top out
at 600 kilohertz and not the 1 megahertz
that the actual smart power stages
support which our MP 86 9 5 6 is from
also monolithic power systems these are
60 amp smart power stages I'm not sure
on like I'm not sure that these have any
special features I would assume they do
like for example inter-cell and say
international rectifier well they have
body braking mode or diode braking mode
which basically the same thing it's
essentially a way of reducing the over
voltage overshoot on a trend on a load
release which basically means the
transition of a VR I'm going from high
current output to low current output or
when you do that then you basically end
up with a bunch of excess energy stored
up in your inductors and that tends to
cause a bunch of voltage overshoot now
body braking mode can prevent that by
essentially burning off the extra energy
on the body diode of the of the power of
the low side MOSFET in inside the power
stage now I'm not sure that these have
this because I can't get a full
datasheet for these because it's not
public I was lucky enough to actually
get efficiency curves for these so that
they supported up to a 1 megahertz
switching for 1 megahertz switching
frequency so yeah that's basically why
EVGA is restricting the vrm up to 600
kilohertz because well you don't want to
go above 1 megahertz because at that
point these will stop working properly
and at 1 megahertz they're also going to
be very inefficient so that's kind of
the the limiting factor on a lot of
power stages is just how far you can
push the switching frequency before they
become a completely start malfunctioning
or get really really halt I noticed that
these were advertises slight more
accurate than than the average smart
power stage which I didn't really bother
to verify too much they also include a
built in temperature monitoring over
current
protection over temperature protection
so basically everything to prevent the
vrm from blowing up if something does go
horribly wrong and yeah that's what
makes them smart power stages this is
like a new standard of voltage right
like power stage from Intel pretty much
so you know we're gonna start seeing
these a lot and the thing that's kind of
interesting with with this vrm from EVGA
is that this is the first twenty atti
that I can think of that actually uses
60 amps more power stages and not 70
amps 70 M smart power stages note that
that makes a huge difference to the vrm
efficiency as those are our efficiency
figures and quite frankly this right
here is better than all of the other
twenty ATT is that I can remember
covering partly because these actually
and I'm gonna partly blame that on the
fact that these come with a datasheet
that's actually SPECT at 1.2 volts not
just 1.8 so for a lot of the other power
stages I would take like 1.8 volts
efficiency figures and then try scale
them down and with the scaling down I
would be very conservative because as
far as I'm concerned under estimating
how much heat something puts out is a
lot worse than overestimating it so
essentially with a lot of the other
cards there there's a good chance that
the efficiency figures for them are too
high which makes these look better than
they should be but nonetheless these are
definitely very very good and more than
you'd ever really need to worry about
it's also worth noting that there's h2o
like the h2o 400 amps here is it's the
bit generous tin from EVGA basically
told me that in their testing of the
kingpin edition of this card right here
2100 megahertz core clock and 8450
memory clock the card would pull about
420 Watts under 3dmark so you know I
guess if you over vaulted the card a lot
um and maybe hit 2200 megahertz or
something you might be able to hit that
400 amps but actually necessarily you
could get close
to that but you won't necessarily hit it
either way even at 400 amps output this
VR I'm barely produces any heat plus
that heat is split and spread across
like two separate sections of erm so
yeah this is gonna run really really
cool and it's gonna run even cooler if
you've seen the video of this card in
the EVGA lab when it was running this
thing hasn't really elaborate vrm
cooling system like oh those things
gonna have no like I'd be very surprised
if this had issues dealing with 600 amps
output because you know you'd have what
you'd have a slightly more than half of
that so let's just say like 45 watts on
this side and there's a massive heat
sink on on the vrm for this portion of
the card and then there's another really
large heat sink on the other end of the
card as well so if you just put air flow
over that you should have absolutely no
problem dealing with with 68 watts of
heat so 600 amps output and the vrm here
is ridiculous oh well yeah really
Achilles overkill I mean even at 700
amps you know given enough airflow this
should be no problem to handle for
shorter benchmarks there's a lot of
other cards that you help to use the U P
9512 which only goes up to eight phases
then P 2888 goes up to ten phases the
Galax hull of Fame card uses an infant
roller that also goes up to ten phases
and then the twenty atti Strix as well
as the 20 atti matrix which those two
cards share the same PCB those also use
an MP 28 88 in a 10 phase configuration
this one's standard ridiculous overkill
it uses yet more mps more of the MP 86 9
five sixes so you know 360 on power
stages for powering your djidi djidi dr6
more than enough absolutely no concerns
there in terms of power delivery either
and the MP 2888 for voltage control up
there now then things that I think are
far more interesting than the V RMS on
this card I guess let's start off with
the memory chips so normally when you
buy a NVIDIA GPU you get whatever memory
chips happen to be on the factory floor
that day I won't
besides what memory chips are on the
factory floor that day is whatever
memory chips and vidya decided to ship
out because normally when board partners
buy when board partners by the the GPUs
they'll get the GPU and a set of memory
chips with that GPU which basically
means you're gonna end up with whatever
Nvidia decides to ship as Nvidia really
doesn't care about what kind of like
memory overclocking Headroom
you know EVGA is kind of going out of
their way to either like hold back on
using their supply of GDD our six that
they get from Nvidia and just like
filling out the other cards with other
memory chips or they're buying GDD are
six directly from well buying GDD are
six from some kind of vendor that is
always gonna be Samsung and the reason
why this is important is the Samsung GDD
are six is consistent like is
consistently good which basically means
like there there are micron cards out
there which do very good memory over
clocks but there's a lot of micron cards
out there where the memory overclocking
absolutely sucks so with the Samsung
memory you're pretty much guaranteed at
least you know like good memory
overclock I don't want to be overly
generous but the the Samsung GDD are six
should most of the time hit like 1200 or
higher offsets easily higher I would be
very surprised if it didn't do higher
but I don't want to be you know I don't
want to hype this card up more than I
already will with with memory
overclocking figures that aren't
realistic but there's a lot of things
EVGA is doing here that should make the
the memory absolutely clock like crazy
so one one thing is the guaranteed
Samsung memory chips which all generally
clock better the other thing EVGA is
doing that I'm a huge fan of is a
significantly beefed up output filtering
set up for the memory VRM and one of the
things I do to Nvidia cards these days a
lot is just whack a bunch of capacitors
on to the memory rails because I think
it was a gtx 1070 where i first noticed
that if you just added a bunch of
capacitors the memory overclocking
suddenly got
way better okay it was a micron gtx 1070
it sucked and then I added a bunch of
capacitors and it stopped sucking so
much and I had a twenty atti founders
Edition to play with and that's exactly
what I did I whacked a bunch of extra
capacitors on the memory rail and the
card basically picked up some plus
seventy-five megahertz offset that you
know this card right here should have
that taken care of from the factory
which is great this has Samsung memory
and this has significantly better output
filtering for the memory of erm compared
to all the other cards it also helps
that this card will have memory voltage
control which is another easy way to get
a bunch of extra memory clock as well
because the GDD r6 the samsung G DDR six
definitely scales with memory voltage
the the memory memory overclocking on
this thing should be absolutely killer
now that we're on the back of the card
it's also worth noting all of this so
you know not only have they
significantly improved the output
filtering for the memory vrm they've
done the same for the vcore now on the
vcore side i actually don't know how
much impact this is gonna have I have a
sneaking suspicion it's gonna have very
little but I've never tried like I've
never tried adding this many multi layer
ceramic capacitors to anything because
I'm not a pick-and-place machine and
this would suck to do so yeah I like on
paper this should help in practice I'm
not sure how much of a difference this
would make but it is definitely the most
like like you can just look at all the
other cards none of them have this many
multi-layer ceramic capacitors all in
the output of their V curve erm and the
reason why this is significant that it's
multi-layer ceramic capacitors is
because multi-layer ceramic capacitors
have a far superior frequency response
compared to you know what you normally
find which is like aluminum polymers or
tantalum polymers or any other kind of
sort of like electrolytic type capacitor
right because they're they're still
electrolytic they're just solid
electrolyte so yeah and the thing with
the frequency response is basically that
means the capacitor is better at
filtering out high frequency switching
noise
from say the GPU core though admittedly
like the it also is affected by distance
and these are rather far away from the
GPU core which is why I'm like well I'm
not sure how much in fact these would
have then again you also have just like
transient or spot like these would still
also help with smoothing over transients
so when the GPU core pulls a lot of
current and then suddenly very little
current and then suddenly a lot of
current again the multi-layer ceramics
will help out with that you know since
they are fast the issue most of the time
the issue with multi-layer ceramics
being used for like handling transient
response is that they don't have a lot
of capacitance to them but EVGA is kind
of solving that by just having so damn
many of them so yeah it's just like
that's the thing is like these are like
if you add this many multi-layer ceramic
capacitors I'd be very surprised if it
didn't do anything but I've been
surprised by like I've done other things
and ended up surprised with when it
comes to adding capacitors to V curve
erm so yeah I want to say this makes a
difference but I'm really not sure it
should but you know I would like on
liquid nitrogen I'd expect this to
actually help a lot on ambient I'm not
sure that you'd be stressing the you
know like the card would be pulling
enough current to really make a
difference so the bulk capacitors now
this is an engineering sample card and
you can tell because like this is
missing and there's stuff on the back of
the card that's also missing but and
that basically means that these
capacitors you see right here they're
not final these are not the ones you'll
actually see on the retail cards because
these are tantalum polymers from
Panasonic and the retail cards are going
to be on Panasonic SX series capacitors
and those are SP caps whereas these are
pauls caps and the difference is SP caps
are aluminum polymers and Panasonic
makes some very very low ESR aluminium
polymers and the reason why we want low
ESR is essentially it makes the
capacitor is more efficient and it makes
them just better like better at doing
their job
I mean panasonic also makes capacitors
that go all the way down to three
Millions but those are ridiculously
expensive and I don't think I've ever
seen them used on
any GPU ever because of how expensive
they are
like I guess at this point everybody's
gonna be wondering what's their lifespan
rating well it's only 2,000 hours 105
degrees Celsius so they're not high
endurance considering that this vrm is
probably going to be running basically
at ambient I'm not worried okay I think
it's and this is actually something
worth noting is a lot of the very low
ESR capacitors just straight up don't
come in high endurance specs like the
three million yes are capacitors you
can't buy them in five thousand hours
they just don't make them they also
don't make them in high voltage ratings
either so these are basically capacitors
that is just like they're optimized for
raw performance above sort of any kind
of consideration for long term you know
high temperature and urines because
they're still gonna last forever if
they're at like 50 degrees Celsius
they're just not gonna last forever if
the vrm was super super halt which it
won't be because the vrm is very
efficient right and really well cooled
so yeah like I I don't see a problem
with with the capacitor selection the
EVGA is golden for I mean I can I kind
of wish it went for the three million
ESR ones but at the same time I
completely understand that they didn't
because those are as I said like
ridiculously expensive and I think that
with everything that this card is doing
it's just kind of like okay you got a
stop
plus there's like a pile of multi layer
ceramics on the back you know shaving
off a couple of milliohms on the on the
ball capacitors probably wouldn't make
much of a difference considering what
the back of the card looks like let's
move on to other cool features we get
triple eight pin power connectors which
normally I don't think is that cool the
thing with this card is the triple 8 pin
power connectors allow this card to ship
with a max TDP of 520 watts so when you
max out the power slider in an EVGA
precision for example this is what the
power limit is going to be for the card
and the reasoning for that is is a
hundred fifty Watts 150 watts 150 watts
and 70 watts and now if you remember a
lot of my past videos I say that these
power connectors can handle a hell of a
lot more power than 150 watts and that's
true the issue is and video what
allow their board partners to ship cards
with power limits higher than 150 watts
per power connector or at least I think
that's the situation because the way and
videos power limits are actually
implemented is there's not really like a
full card power limit it's a per power
connector power limit which is why this
card can have a 520 watt BIOS you know
power limit because 150 is in spec in
spec in spec and still in spec and also
the per power connector power limit is
the reason why we have all of these
MOSFETs and all of those and lat and
also this choke and that choke and these
guys and those guys and well I didn't
notice any in this area so I'm not sure
if this is power balanced or not but
basically because the power limit is per
power connector you end up in this
really awkward situation where
theoretically it's possible depending on
how you have your V like vrm connected
to the power connectors it is
theoretically possible to end up in a
situation where one power connector is
pushing 200 watts and another one is
pushing a hundred and or without all of
the power balancing stuff that would
cause throttling on the core clock so
that's bad because you know effectively
it reduces our power torque like you
know you have your theoretical 520 well
power limit but if you're pulling trying
to pull 200 Watts from one of the
connectors and a hundred from another
one you're effectively limited to I'm
gonna screw this up 470 Watts by instead
of the full 520 so you need all of the
power balancing to make sure that at any
given time there's a hundred and fifty
Watts across like if you're maxing out
the total power limit that it is
actually shared properly among all the
power connectors and the way these
MOSFETs do that is basically they
reassign phases from one connector to
the next connector on the fly so you
know if like we have one phase here
that's pushing way more current than the
other one well there's gonna be
different currents flowing through each
phase you know reassign the phases so
that they're all pushing added up there
they're pushing the same amount of power
for each power connector so that's what
all the power balancing is for now if
you're on liquid nitrogen there's going
to be an extreme overclocking BIOS
that's gonna appear on some forum I'm
not sure where actually no I have a I
have a good eye I have a rough idea of
where it will show up and that BIOS will
remove such silly things to constrain us
as power limits because on liquid
nitrogen Nvidia cards get very very
power hungry for example 1080 tea eyes
will regulate will average 800 watts
when running on liquid nitrogen easily
they will average clay easily 800 watts
well Tim from EVGA always actually
releases a a really cool guide for for
overclocking these that usually mentions
the average ln2 overclocked power draw
and at least for like nine ATT eyes it
was like 11 huh it was I think 1100
watts average or something like that for
1080 T eyes it was like 850 and his
guide so for these we'll definitely find
out what exactly they pull either way
with 3/8 pin power connectors we should
be more than more than sorted because
each of these connectors can do at least
three hundred and sixty watts if you
have you know a halfway decent power
supply now then other features we have a
USB B micro that's the wording and that
gives you monitoring capabilities for
the card over USB which is pretty
awesome then here we have an e V Bob
header so if you have a TV bought you
can use it to control voltages on the
card which is uh I mean at this point
like I wonder how many people there are
who are still active in extreme
overclocking and also have Eevee BOTS
because those things are pretty rare
because EVG hasn't been making them for
ages above that we have a four pin fan
header for some reason I'm here oh then
we have the I assume that's for the OLED
display that the card comes with so
that'll allow you to monitor things like
GPU clocks fps power consumption
voltages like GPU memory voltage PEX
voltage 1.8 volts and 12 volts it'll
also allow you to monitor temperatures
across the 12 different sensors on the
PCB as well as the thermal paste monitor
which is which is a sensor that goes was
some like in - I think - 60s
so you know goes pretty far below zero
it doesn't go all the way that's light
as it doesn't go as low as a K type so
personally I would still it like if I
had one of these cards and I was taking
it on liquid nitrogen I would still glue
a k-type thermocouple to the back of the
GPU core because that's actually a
really good way to figure out if your
thermal paste failed because even if
you're at like full pot and you know
temperature sent like the the the normal
temperature sensor that this comes with
won't work at that point and regular
1080 T is and twenty eighty T is they
won't register anything at that point
the temperature readings going to be
completely wack but what I do is I glue
a k-type thermocouple to the back of the
core because if you monitor your Delta
through like from the beginning of your
session and throughout your session if
your Delta suddenly just jumps way up
for no apparent reason you know your
thermal paste just failed and I guess
with this you if the card doesn't
immediately crash I would assume with
this thermal monitor the the thermal
paste monitor on this it would actually
start showing you know potentially like
minus fifty degrees while your ln2 pot
is at minus two hundred and if that's
happening you know there's a problem
anyway
so it might not be that much of an issue
that it doesn't go super low but
personally i like i like to be able to
monitor the delta you know and took
really negative temperatures but it is
also kind of awkward because you need
twice as many thermometers for all of
your GPUs and everything above the OLED
connector right here oh and also the
OLED display will allow you to display
custom graphics if you feel like making
those above that we find the Eevee ball
I mean not the Eevee ball header but a
voltage probe it header there that's
what evj calls it essentially this is a
hookup for digital multimeters super
convenient it fits snugly onto digital
multimeter probes well there's like a
connector that goes in there and that
then terminates in connectors for
digital multimeter probes that fit snug
so you can hook up your multimeter and
you can just set it to voltage and you
can monitor whatever voltages you feel
like from your multimeter so in
combination with that OLED display you
could you'd actually have a very easy
time monitoring like two voltages at the
same time without you know needing two
multimeters so it's pretty neat also
this is a lot
like there's a lot of extreme
overclocking cards out there which
basically just give you like voltage
read points on the PCB itself like they
don't give you any kind of hookup it's
just like the solder bumps or something
and as like it's it's nice that the they
thought about adding that but at that
point I may as well just solder wires to
the back of it like two capacitors on
the back of the GPU core at least from
my perspective it's just like well if
you're not gonna give me real hookups I
can just and I'm gonna have to solder to
the car to anyway
I may as well just solder directly to
the back of the core right like at that
point it doesn't make a difference the
this this is actually really convenient
so it basically eliminates one of those
things that you would have to you know
so like on a lot of other cards you'd
have to do Sol during to get these kinds
of hookups here it just comes with it
which is awesome that's kind of the main
reason for the kingpin cards is just
like you know these are cards where you
can buy the card to insulate the card
maybe add the extra k-type thermocouple
to the back of the core if you're like
me and then throw it on liquid nitrogen
you don't have to do anything else is it
just you don't have to worry about
soldiering anything modding anything
removing resistors bridging anything you
know bridging resistors whatever don't
have to do anything like that buy the
card install the extreme overclocking
vials insulate run next we got a triple
bios which well since you are gonna be
expected to like you know if you're
gonna be installing the extreme
overclocking while so you will have to
flash the BIOS on the card and if in the
BIOS process about BIOS flashing process
anything goes wrong well having three
biases makes it that much harder to
break your card right like instead of
having to brick just to BIOS is before
the card is terrible before the card is
unusable and here you have to you have
three attempts to not screw up and then
we get some LEDs for indicating which
voltage regulators are actually running
so n VDD is our core v RM so if there's
anything wrong with the core that won't
light up if the memory is bro if this
doesn't turn on that won't light up if
the PEX rail doesn't turn on which is
one of these that won't line up 1.8
volts it you get the idea 1.8 volts is
monitored and 12 volts is also monitored
so essentially if there's some kind of
issue causing the card to not fire up
and one of these LEDs is
oh isn't lighting up well you know you
can skip a whole lot of troubleshooting
with that well you can skip a good chunk
of troubleshooting with that not a whole
lot because at that point like if you're
V Corps member v RM and your memory of
erm aren't running then it's like why
aren't they running and might be
something like oh the five volt rail
isn't running which you might have to
hunt down at that point but uh still
simpler than having a card that has no
display out you know no display and
you're sitting there like well I guess
we're gonna be taking a multimeter to it
and trying to figure out why it's not
displaying anything well I think at this
point I've covered everything on the
front so let's move back to the back and
this being a you know engineering sample
while we have LEDs for the the triple
bias to indicate which BIOS your own but
this being an engineering sample it's
missing some features over here so we
have a voltage offset switch which I'm
not sure what exactly it does but the
like what exactly the offset settings
are but essentially the idea is that you
can offset your volt core voltage by a
certain amount this can be very useful
with twenty eight like well on ten
eighty TI's this would be very useful
because 10 ATT is on high core voltage
you don't want to start up though I
assume since this card you'd be setting
your voltages and software that
shouldn't be an issue I guess you would
also be able to use this to override any
like like software voltage limitations
you can just go above them by a certain
amount like whatever the offset gives
you so that's potentially useful I'm I'm
not sure I would ever use this myself
but it's it's here if you feel like you
need it then we have memory load line
settings and GPU load line settings now
the settings if I remember correctly are
basically reduced droop and then droop
completely turned off and you do kind of
have to play with them because in some
situations you may find that having a
little bit of droop or all of the droop
is actually better than having no droop
because droop exists for a reason and
I'm not gonna go into explaining why it
exists but essentially on liquid
nitrogen it's actually it's really
obvious if you set up your load line
settings wrong on liquid nitrogen
because basically you can be
like you can set a certain voltage then
adjust your load line and you're gonna
start crashing in benchmarks instead of
finishing them it's that obvious
all right ambient that doesn't really
happen because at ambient you're not so
temperature sensitive but on liquid
nitrogen it's really really obvious when
your load line is set up wrong so that
pretty much covers everything on the
r-tx 20 atti kingpin Edition the most
you know complete art like the zeiss I
think at the start I said this is
basically a perfect RTX 20 80 TI and and
I stand by that it does everything I
can't think of a single thing well no I
can think of one thing I would try I
would really like to see this row of
multi-layer ceramics replicated down
here because those are for the memory
power right and I and I I just have to
wonder could you make the memory clock
better if there was more multi-layer
ceramics down here for the memory chips
that are over there instead of just the
chips that are up there right this kind
of seems kind of imbalanced and also you
can't put any over there without
shifting the VR I'm back and that would
potentially haven't you know negative
consequences for core clock so I don't
want to mess with that bark but I do
wonder you're like what would happen if
there was more of them down here could
the memory overclocking be even better
but yeah other than that you know I
can't think of anything I would change
on this card
it's it's that good the only card that I
can like out of all the 20 ATT is that
I've seen the only one that comes even
close to this is the galaxy all of Fame
and the thing with the Hall of Fame
cards is they they don't have a lot of
the things that this has and they're
kind of more awkward to get your hands
on the extreme overclocking utilities
for whereas the whereas the kingpin
cards historically have their BIOS you
know just kind of placed on on on
extreme overclocking forums and if you
need that BIOS and you know where to
look you can get that BIOS so that's
that's always been kind of my like so
that's that's the really awesome part
with the
in additions so yeah that's it for the
video thank you for watching like share
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actually I'm not sure Steve takes care
of that stuff so anyway I have a youtube
channel called actually hardcore
overclocking where I do a bunch of other
overclocking relates and stuff it'd be
awesome if you check that out as well
and that's it for the video so goodbye
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