Fixing the RX 5700 XT Cooler for $0.04 | Paste & Washers vs. Thermal Pad
Fixing the RX 5700 XT Cooler for $0.04 | Paste & Washers vs. Thermal Pad
2019-07-10
our initial benchmarking of the AMD rx
5700 XT GPU had one primary complaint
and that was predictably the blower
cooler we typically do hybrid mods where
we stick a liquid cooler on a GPU to
improve it but this time we decided to
do something simpler and replace the
Hitachi HMO 3 thermal pad with four
cents worth of washers and some thermal
paste then we made an additional change
after that and added some therole pads
to the backplate for some a be testing
this data shows how much of an
improvement you can get with a better
mounting pressure on the GPU and with
some new thermal paste rather than the
thicker and more thermally inefficient
they're all pad with our quick changes
we're able to get the card into a 40 DBA
operating range without thermal
throttling which was not possible
previously on our test bench before that
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the link in the description below we've
done this before with AMD cards we did
it with Vega and more depth with 56 and
64 and that was primarily because with
HBM they had different packaging methods
where some of the packaging would have
an epoxy resin on it and some of it
wouldn't and so that changed the
mounting contact to the HBM and the GPU
from the vapor chamber with Radeon seven
we did some of this and this is just
pressure testing with pressure paper we
would secure it remove it secure it
again and did that three passes for
these and the end result was that the
entire middle never really made contact
with a vapor chamber until you put that
hitachi throwing pad on there which is
what andy's using for these cards
instead of throwing pace so there's some
ups and downs to this the positive side
is that thermal pads like the hitachi
pad or like some of the other more
permanent throne pads in the market like
carbon odd or something like that the
advantage to them is that they aged well
and that they don't really age like
throwing paste a lot of paste will cure
not all of it does but a lot of it does
cure over time and become worse over
time so that's the upside the downside
is that all these solutions and
including carbo not they are not as
thermally effective as a good thermal
paste and so much of this comes down to
things like one of it is that the
properties of the material but another
one is the thickness of the material
what their own pace you can smash it
down tighter and that Hitachi HMO 3 pad
is pretty damn thick so that does impact
the cooling capabilities in a negative
way now the upside is that Andy can try
to solve some of the mounting pressure
issue which we've tested again the first
thing we did after getting all the
thermal testing done was taking the
thing apart and put some pressure paper
on it lo and behold the top one here
which will show a mural the top one is
the original test then the bottom one is
the test where we applied some washers
to it so this is the simplest thing we
did to fix our rating on seven-card 2 is
we put four of these on here these just
come with radiator screws you can get
them for about a penny each at your
local hardware store for reference these
are one millimeter thick we might
recommend something a little bit thinner
maybe more like if you can find on point
5 or 0.7 millimeter thick washers we
went with metal because they were around
plastic would be a little safer because
then you'll crack the washer before you
cause damage to the hardware in theory
anyway so metal and a little bit thicker
is what we use but we'd probably
recommend plastic and a bit thinner just
so you have some more play there to to
damage the washer before you damage
anything else because then it would be
the weakest link it's just a safety
measure but anyway the point is we put
some of those on with Radeon 7 and we
were able to get paste working where
previously when we because of this when
we installed Radeon 7 with our all paste
and without any extra mounting pressure
from washers under the four screws on
the retention plate it made worse
contact on the HTML three and so the
HTML 3 thermal pad was better in those
scenarios but with the extra mounting
pressure the thermal paste is better so
we applied that here too and we've
improved it quite a bit for just the
blower cooler alone to the point where
we can now run at a lower noise level
while operating at slightly lower
temperatures as well and no longer
throttle
previously we were thermal throttling on
the frequency at 40 DBA and we've now
fixed that so while this shot of the
pressure papers on the screen couple
things if it's a brighter or more
saturated red that means there's better
contact in that area if it's not red or
there's it's not quite a saturated that
means there's worse contact and we see a
gap exists in the center for both tests
even with the washers which would
indicate one of two things either a lack
of mounting pressure in the center of
the cooler which kind of makes sense
because there's no screw there since the
GP is there or it could also mean that
there is a bump in the surface of the
vapor chamber like a non levelness which
would also make sense for a vapor
chamber and in our original radion 17
you can see how there's a similar
pattern that emerges and we think that
is probably from where the the vapor
chamber might have some cylinders or
different support we're not quite sure
but it's a level a level this issue in
the cold plate before I get into the
testing data here it's it would probably
be good to talk about thermal
conductivity as a rating so there's
different ways to measure thermal
conductivity a lot of the manufacturers
do it in different ways you often one
pace to the next you can't just straight
compare the thermal conductivity number
sort of like how with fancy FM if it's
not tested the same way from one
manufacturer to the desk there's no
industry standard that these companies
adhere to if you're not comparing to
like for like then the numbers aren't
necessarily directly comparable and
that's true for thermal conductivity
especially so when you see a really high
thermal conductivity rating on these
Hitachi thermal pads just because that
number is higher than what you would get
on what we use which we use the hydro
not a thermal grizzly height or not
paste and I'll link them in the
description below if they're not already
an ad for this video they might be but
we as the hydro not paste and that's
fairly high thermal conductivity but the
Hitachi pad is higher but it's not
Hitachi pads higher therefore is better
because there's also the thickness of
the material and then things like
orientation on those pads matter to
vertically they they transfer the most
efficiently which these are oriented
that way but yeah so that's wanted to
point that out you can't just look at
thermal conductivity between two
property to two product
and determine if one is better than the
other without any further information
well it's gonna test data for this we
are looking at GPU Junction and GPU edge
temperature the edge temperature is the
standard one that's what Nvidia it
measures presently or presents anyway
the junction temperature is the hottest
of all the sensors on the die from
memory Vega or Radeon seven had 64 of
those I think and we're not sure how
many 700 XD has but it takes the hottest
one and then boost according to that
temperature 110 is t.j.maxx or at least
the maximum temperature at which it will
begin to throttle and then with Radeon 7
2004 clock I'm not sure if it's supposed
to with this one though so one times the
max for Junction we're also measuring
vrm and the memory temperatures for this
too so and then finally we have a
backplate test where we put some thermal
pads on the backplate to see if it
improves the vrm or memory thermals it
would probably not improve the GPU
thermals as you'll see here and then
that was done without even needing to
read paste the card so we can do those
tests back-to-back because all that
comes off is the backplate all the other
screws remain in so that makes it really
easy to compare without even having to
repay it which would throw another
variable at it and then finally we did
four so at well we'll talk about this
more later but we did an average of
three different test passes for each
configuration for the final chart that
you'll see that way we can eliminate
some runs run variance and ambient
temperature was controlled and monitored
every second so let's get into it for
this benchmark we retested the thermals
of the rx T 700 XT at 40 DBA the rx 5700
XT is below or cooler proves problematic
for our initial testing where a 40 DB a
fixed noise that will result it in a GPU
Junction temperature about 110 to 112
degrees Celsius which bounces off the
throttle point the GPU edge temperature
was about 94 degrees compared to an
Nvidia 2070 super F e-cards edge
temperature of about 67 degrees you can
see that chart on the screen already
hopefully and that'll be the previous
chart we showed in our review so no new
data here yet the bigger problem was
that the GPU junction temperature as
that's where a throttling will start and
we also noted that we ran these tests in
something of an ideal environment in
that initial review which is a low
ambient of 21 to 22 degrees Celsius
whereas most modern cases will sit at an
ambient of at least 30 degrees
especially if the CV is under load if
you have a case with a solid front panel
but fortunately those don't exist you
never see those and also if you don't
run AC or something in our new testing
we found gbu edge temperature to plot at
about 86 degrees in this chart that's a
drop of 8 degrees Celsius in our
controlled testing environment this is
where the ambient unchanged and logged
again second a second during the run
with the fan speeds controlled the 40
DBA
an eighth degree reduction in edge
temperature from just adding paste and
washers is a massive change for minimal
effort again it's about four cents of
washers and if you buy some good paste
it's maybe another ten bucks or so as a
plug we did use our GN teardown toolkit
and had the cooler off in about five
minutes in the second time we did this
replace the paste and had it all back
together and working in under half an
hour so this is a pretty easy model the
first time you do it it might take 40
minutes or so and you can grab our
toolkit if you want it on stored at
kyndra's nexus net it has every tool you
need for this video card as for the GPU
junction temperature we improved that
from 110 degrees to 112 degrees
previously throttling down to 103
degrees Celsius it's also a major
improvement and means we're no longer
clock throttling at 40 DBA technically
this comparison isn't even one to want
because the throttling clocks previously
meant that we didn't know what the true
uninhibited temperature would have been
if it hadn't throttled it would have
been higher though as for the memory and
the MOSFETs in the new chart here our
memory temperatures were originally at
about 98 degrees Celsius at 40 DBA which
is at a point of spec limitations for GT
dr6 it's it's fast approaching that that
limit where GD d r 6 is operating
outside of the recommended temperature
the change improved memory thermals for
two reasons one we've increased mounting
pressure of the cooling unit we can put
a shot up of our teardown where we show
how the cold plate comes into contact
with the memory indirectly via base
plate and the second reason is that
we're increasing the cooling efficiency
and getting heat away from the GPU
faster which will reduce heat in the
vicinity of the memory back to the chart
vrm MOSFETs temperatures have remained
mostly the same which makes sense these
components are farther from the GPU
socket and our heatsink tin to the base
plate directly the improvement is matte
similarly two to three degrees Celsius
which is outside of our error margins
but not particularly noteworthy as for
whether adding pads to the back plate
helps we have an easier tard to look out
for that the answer is that it's more or
less as expected we saw no reduction in
GPU temperature which makes sense since
all the heat is for the GPU as far from
the backplate would have to go through
multiple layers of substrate die copper
and gold and then the the PCB eventually
so that makes sense to not see the
difference there we saw a reduction of
about two degrees on the vrm MOSFETs and
this is after accounting for the ambient
again and these results are as a
reminder an average of three tasks
passes on each configuration which is
why you've seen this chart instead of
overtime that's a total of six test
passes between these two thermal paste
was able to be left for each pass
because only the backplate is removed
which means that the cooler itself can
stay mounted with the same paste after
all that testing we end up with an
average improvement of about two degrees
in the memory and the vrm thermals which
in the sake of the memory is actually
somewhat important because it's already
run into a hot vrm it doesn't matter
that much but it is an improvement so as
for whether this is worth it well it
really depends first of all we would
recommend waiting for partner models if
you're buying this card because those
will in most cases solve the problem
without needing extra work and will be
better anyway though this is still it's
still loud and it still runs hot it's
just it's a lot better so a partner
model will still be better than this if
you are buying one of these though and
you are leaving the reference cooler on
it then it might be worth doing the
washer mod with their old pace the or
even without thermal paste you could
still improve it a bit
the downside is there a couple downsides
one if you remove this cooler and you're
not just adding washers you'd add
washers without removing the cooler in
which case you don't damage the thermal
pad if you remove the cooler there's a
good chance you damage the thermal pad
at which point you're going to have to
use paste and so then you lose the
advantage of a thrown pad which is not
really subject to the same aging as a
lot of the pastes are but you can
counter that by using a non curing paste
and again we used hydro not here but
we'd probably recommend a cryo not that
one lasts more or less
it'll last the life of the card at least
from our experience so if you use a non
curing pace like that you'll be in good
shape but still you're modifying the
device and if you're not experienced
opening it then that could be a downside
it's not difficult of course you can
watch our video to see how it's done
it's very easy couple screws and some
cables increasing the pressure is
something we're a little uncertain about
if you're careful with it like we were
and you don't over torque things then it
should be fine if you over torque it or
you use a washer that is a little bit
too thick and you have to really drive
that screw into the into the threads
there's a chance you could cause damage
to the PCB or the GPU so be careful if
you do this mod it's not difficult there
is an improvement we would say overall
it's worth it it's just because of how
many people watch these videos and the
skill level of all of the people
watching varies greatly I do want to be
very clear that if you have no
experience working with stuff like this
it is not hard I don't want to make it
sound too difficult it's just be careful
because if you over torque things what
so an example of what can happen is if
you have like because this happened to
me if you have the cooler not line up
perfectly when you get this fan back in
there it's got a triangular plate that
sits in the base plate and if that
triangle is not inserted to the other
triangle and it's out of place what will
happen is to use a kingpin quote the PCB
will Bend like a banana when you try to
put it back together and you'll get a
really nasty bend in it and if you screw
all the screws back in and that's that
state it will probably damage the card
if you catch it you'll be fine but
anyway yeah point is this is not
difficult and it's certainly easy for
anyone to do we just want to make really
clear for people who are inexperienced
to watch out for that kind of thing
because this is something that I would
expect more people will do as a mod
because it's so trivial it's a couple
washers so again the final
recommendations we use the one
millimeter thick steel washer and that
works fine just kind of watch the torque
on it use the cryo or hydro not paste
would recommend a cryo not paste or
something similar
and for your uses I'd probably recommend
a plastic washer that's a little bit
thinner 0.7 would be ideal not sure if
you can really find those but and then
that that would be a pretty good safety
check too so anyway that's it for this
one there's an improvement that's
worthwhile and the reason it's
worthwhile is because we went from 40
DBA and throttling which is not a really
a valid use because now you have to
increase the fan temperature say you're
not throttling run from that to 40 DBA
and not throttling so you can actually
use the card at 40 DBA as tested 20
inches away because that's important in
a room with a noise floor of about 26 DB
so yeah worthwhile if you feel like
opening it up for the thermal
improvement and I think that'll wrap it
so that fixed a lot of the problems with
the cooler in terms of not throttling
while being a reasonable temperature
we'd like to see AMD do this instead
because then you can I mean then it
comes from the factory that way my
assumptions would be that they think the
mounting pressure issue is best solved
by a thermal pad rather than by finding
a new retention system because maybe
when you're mass producing thousands of
these it may be it becomes an issue of
you could I don't know over tighten or
something like that if it's all done by
machine and there's some very and it's
not really sure what the exact reasoning
is but that'd be my assumption thank you
for watching you can go to store
documents access net if you'd like to
pick up a toolkit like this one which is
what we use for this modding again it
has every tool you'll need for this
what's your experience with it takes
about five minutes to take it apart and
put it back together - the pasting time
and you hear the patreon.com slash
gamers Nexus - helps out there as well
I'll see you all next time
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