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MSI GTX 1070 Ti Duke Tear-Down & Shunt Mod Guide

2018-01-03
everyone today we are tearing down an MSI 1070 TI duke card i have not worked with any of their cards from the duke line in a while but this is a new one so this is a I think they're officially calling this a try froze or cooler now as opposed to Twin Frozr it's got three fans the third one over hands the PCB a bit which allows it to push air obviously through and pass the PCB and we're gonna take it apart and see what it looks like underneath look at the VR mmm look at the cooling solution and all that this one is about MSRP it's about four hundred and seventy four hundred eighty dollars so a bit below ten eighty a bit above reference card and the 1070 TI just to reiterate in our review we think that it's it's sort of a misunderstood card the initial rhetoric around the 1070 TI was why does this thing exist there's a 1080 there's 1070 we kind of are of the opinion that like in my review of it that the 1070 I as long as it's 452 474 $80.00 it makes more sense than 1080 s because they're roughly the same performance and you can overclock it in five minutes and get equivalent performance even with an overclocked 1080 so we're gonna take this one apart today before that this video is brought to you by thermal Grizzly makers of the conductor hot liquid metal that we recently used to drop 20 degrees off of our coffee leak temperatures thermal grizzly also makes traditional thermal compounds we use on top of the IHS like cryo not and hydronaut pastes learn more at the link below so starting now externally with the cooler it is a three fan design and these are smaller fans they are not the usual 90 to 100 millimeter fans that the Twin Frozr coolers have they're a bit smaller than that so if we do a quick measurement of these fans we will get let's see roughly how big they are it's about 85 85 so that means in in marketing materials they're gonna call that 90 because that's probably about 90 yeah so about 85 millimeters call it 90 and the usual Twin Frozr fans are a little bit bigger than this I think there are a hundred millimeter these days so they do run a bit larger than these fans do but there's three of these so you can't fit too large or 100 millimeter fans with them for power it's got a six and an eight it's got a traditional back blade some LEDs no bio switch so there's no dual BIOS lots of just Phillips screws it looks like and then we've got some heat pipes and a standard heat sink over there so pretty much seen the whole cart at this point let's take it apart and get the actual details for this I am going to be using our anti-static mod mat because now that it is cold and dry we are routinely shocking things in the studio like actually not even from just advertising our own product perspective we are legitimately particularly Andrew you have a camera camera particularly Andrew behind the camera we're shocking every tripod every table but that's where the wrist strap has come in actually quite handy we've got the anti-static mod mat on stored on cameras Nexus Donette / mod mat if you would like one and cold and dry as the weather that harbors static electricity so we're gonna be a bit safer today than normally okay so all those screws I just took out including this one are going through the back plate through the PCB where's the unthreaded part and then into the base plate so these are retaining the base plate to the card as well as the back plate now we need to remove the cooling portion so we got the four standard spring tension screws for that warranty Boyd sticker which are awful and not really enforceable in a lot of places so oK we've removed the backplate this is another one of those where it's not gonna do a ton for you in terms of heat transfer because there's really no way to transfer the heat to the plate it's just there for looks primarily this is not a thermally conductive surface it's coated for a few reasons primarily that they're probably trying to avoid direct shorts by bridging any of the pins but a thermal pad in there would do a whole lot of good to transfer heat so not particularly effective as a cooling solution but then again not a lot of hot components on the back of the card so let's see if they are somewhat redeemed on the front of the card where it really counts and we've got a couple of fans are gonna have to disconnect first okay I was trivial alright so twin solution and base plate and we'll take this off in a moment but let's take a look first so a capacitor bank most of it other than the last cap and the last joke most of the cap Bank and the inductor line do have thermal pads that as you can see by the impressions from the lines going down them they do contact the heatsink before someone says wait a minute there's not a lot of surface area there all you're doing is contacting the fins that doesn't do anything it actually does quite a lot we tested this with the EVGA ACX cards with a thermal pad mod around this no actually end of year 2016 we tested that and it matters this helps a lot I mean it's better than air air is not really thermally conductive you're at like 0.2 0.2 4 watts per meter Kelvin at 25 C whereas aluminium you're gonna be upwards of 200 so it's certainly better than then nothing or then just err and you can see that they also contact the heat pipes a bit which is probably the most helpful as those are going to be what does your phase change so it helps it probably a bit better to have a flat plate but depends on how much the airflow matters here versus just straight contact to pull heat away and we'll know more about that once we look at the vrm components so yeah they do actually have those contacting the heatsink which is something I was genuinely worried about until just now because some of the cheaper ramesside cards in the past like the armor which uses a great PCB they don't do a great job at ensuring contact between electrical or power components and heat sinks so that's that's done at least reasonably this is just looks like for vibration damping or potentially reducing coil whine although I would say probably vibration damping for the most part as far as the rest of the components we have an LED cable and a fan cable got some grease leeching around the outside of the substrate and what is this doing all right so that hook is going in here into this sort of socket and it's got a rubber finish on it so it's not really for thermal transfer that's not to improve transfer to this flat then it's just probably for vibration damping and physical support of the heatsink would be my guess and and reduce any unwanted noises from the fans other than those you know we need to get underneath the base plate the base plate has some minimal level of surface area not a whole lot though it's it's certainly helpful to have but it's not a not the best base plate we've seen this is also a cheaper card as far as cards go these days it's not like the high-end icx cards that kind of cost a lot more and have the pin fins the MSI lightning does the same idea with the smaller fins on the base plate so we've got our memory modules as expected that contact the aluminum base plate nothing special there so let's kind of move this to the side so for the vrm we'll talk about this more on the review of the card but this is using eight of the silicon ik's ZF 9:06 MOSFETs which are integrated high and low side dual FETs and then there are two more MOSFETs over here for the memory and we're going to talk about the layout and the phase design in the review if builds or doesn't do a standalone video for us kind of depends on how interesting he thinks the card is so very basics of VR I'm there talk about that more later first sean's if you wanted to short them we've got a couple options and actually we can check where they go so there's one shunt here there's another one here my guess is that this shunt goes to that power connector this one probably goes to that one there's another shunt down here that's gonna cover us for the most part it looks like yes so that'll cover the shunts let me okay so what we're gonna do here now is just double check and see where the shunts go this is pretty easy we explained it in our Titan V shunt shorting mod but if you missed that it's the same process here so I'm going to check for resistance using just a cheap digital multimeter we don't need anything too accurate because all we're checking for is a zero value or a non zero value and if we look at the side over here of the mod mat I'll show you what we need to check so we need to check for a 12-volt line which is any of these yellow lines this is on our mat we've got GQ power here for these two so a six fit pin we've got the lower three for the eight pin we've got these three so we need to check one of those and then check that against either side of the shunt so let's just go ahead and do that now so I'm gonna try and sneak this down to that second leg as opposed to the green one green ones a sense so we don't want to hit that okay so this is a zero value so this shot does go to this six pin it zeros out when I measure it and then for this one over here we're also getting a zero when we measure it it's just a trick of being able to get in there and hit the contact so we're zeroing out here it's your resistance they are these shots are basically as we explained in the shunt shorting video they're in line with the power line so this shunt is in line with that eight pin this one's in line is that six pin if you put some liquid metal atop each of these you can short them out and that will trick the card into thinking it's pulling less current than it is the more liquid metal you put the more you are changing the resistance which will impact how much more current it can draw if you put too much liquid metal or you do a direct short with a copper wire for example then dependently gauge of the wire the length of it you could end up forcing the card into 2d clocks because it'll go into safety mode but that'd be what you'd short if you wanted to short it out and trick it into drawing more power and pushing more current down the rails so that is the msi 1070 TI duke card we're going to try and review this one CES is coming up very soon so we'll see what happens with that but we'll try and look at it for sure it's mostly just a question of the thermal performance at this point that's really all that matters with these cards so taking it apart will allow us to put thermocouples on the VRMs and see how it does cooling those compared to its competition and as always if you want more information you can subscribe to catch follow-ups and CES coverage go to store documents access dotnet slash mod matte to make up a mat like the one we used in this video and you can help set directly on patreon.com slash gamers nexus thank you for watching I'll see you all next time
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