Gadgetory

everyone we are here with a Titan XP the actual Titan XP with the lowercase P as in the brand new one $1200 video card this was sent to us on loan by a reader grant thank you for sending that over and for him we are going to be converting this into a hybrid card so that'll give us some extra clock Headroom stabilize things a bit and we'll have a full review and all that stuff online as well but this is going to be a teardown so part one we're taking it apart looking at the PCB and we'll be talking about the components on it a little bit and then part to building it up which will be partly a guide for a hybrid mod a part three will be the results on how it has improved with the liquid cooling kit so before we get into that this is brought to you by ifixit.com you can use code gamers Nexus to get five dollars off of any tool kit purchase from iFixit we have a few of their things on the table I'll be using today like this magnetic project mat very useful for putting the screws out as you remove them from the card so you don't lose where they go because they are many different sizes with these Titan and 1080 class cards that's just how Nvidia decided to do it so we'll be using that let's get started with this this thing first of all this is a reference design there are only reference designs for these Titan XP cards as far as we know right now anyway and things are pretty standard from the outside there's a bit of red tinting on the PCB I suppose that's different but otherwise no DVI so that simplifies the tear down a bit we won't need to use the three-point-something millimeter hex to remove that and the rest is going to be 1.5 and 2 millimeter tools to remove everything so allen keys philips head stuff like that nothing too crazy but specific enough that you would need to make sure you have the stuff before you start because nvidia doesn't use just philips for everything they put a whole bunch allen keys on here so we're going to start with removing the backplate and once we have the backplate off we can start pulling off the cooler and then we can take apart the top side of the cooler with that completely separated from the rest so I'm going to grab a small Phillips head to start with to remove these tiny screws on the backside and then we will go from there okay so back plate is split into two pieces for die-casting reasons so they cast two different pieces and split them and that means we can remove this one now this is not really that functional the plate you can see there's actually one spot with there's thermal contact between a pad but otherwise it's just for looks maybe a little bit of structural support it's not even really contacting anything on the card so it's primarily a looks thing so remove that that was just a few of those Phillips screws once we get in there we now have some of these hex heads and these are actually kind of annoying to remove so we'll save those for a minute later from now get the rest of these Phillips out and these you need to be really careful with when putting them back in because and put this in that section because when you're putting these screws back in if you go one tick past where they feel pretty secure they will snap as we've learned from experience so be careful about that because you're not going to have an easy time finding replacements if you need them back please chase now we just have the big screws that are connected to the expansion the cover the expansion slot pull those okay this is two big ones they hook through the back plate through these hooks on the plate and then into the front side of the cooler and now we can start removing the tiny ones and then the four big spring tens and ones will do last so that is sighs for 4-millimeter it looks like so all these do is hook into the bottom side of the cooler on the wall to cooler and the shroud this connects to the heatsink directly these connect to the shroud and the base plate and the smaller Phillips heads we took out of them are strictly for the back plate I serve no other purpose so once we've gotten these out plus the four that secure the heatsink proper with the vapor chamber we'll be able to separate the cooler and the shroud from the PCB the GPU of stuff we care about and set on that that's also honey screws is that 10 12 14 so 14 of those 4 millimeters and then we've got another 2 overhears the 16 total times 2 ish more last year you're at about 30 screws just get the back plate and the card separated and we need to do these for now so grab a big Phillips I like to cover I sort of partly remove these and then I cover them that way they don't go flying because they will they will fly out once you're down to one or two of these okay cool let's go ahead and remove this cover plate back here Israel over here now we should be able to separate the card now I could do this with the PCB down to keep as many thermal pads where I want them as possible so here we go this looks pretty similar to the 1080 TI founders edition PCB and cooler for that matter this looks like a nickel plated copper cold plate so nickel plated and that's making direct contact with the GPU this is the biggest Pascal GPU that's out there right now for consumers anyway vram contact pads these are your thermal pads for the vram modules and this time unlike the 1080 t is we actually have 12 so for 812 normally this one right here is missing for the 1080 T is but it's actually present on this because we have 12 gigabytes of gddr5 X memory and then in terms of everything else this is your fan header down here this is your power for the LED so that powers this GeForce GTX LED and then for the sets and things like that we still have Fairchild sets are the same ones okay so looked it up some of these parts are a bit different than on the 1080i founder's different PCB we will look into having the board analyzed separately one part that is definitely the same that six nine-30 fats for the memory the RM up here at the top of the board which you can see our 1080i founders PCB analysis to learn more about those and now we're just going to clean off the GPU proper to get it prepped for the hybrid mod which will be the filled up process and there is reveal of GP 102 and for those who karats GP 102 - 450 and we ran a 1 Rev which means it is probably the first production ready consumer ready rev of the GPU of the silicon err okay so there's the GPU we've got the memory from micron as expected loving gigabit per second capable and the sets will look at separately then connect your power connector a couple shunts on the board you can see one right here one up here and those are 5 milli ohm shunts one down here as well if you wanted to do a shunt mod you get short and and try and get some extra power delivery back side nothing special really small crappy thermal pad here for contact with the the backplate but otherwise that's it so we're in a position now where we can start building it up as the hybrid mod and get things going for grants so that he can use this for machine learning and things like that check back shortly for part 2 or we'll do the build up if you haven't seen those before this will show you how to do it on your own and it applies for the 1080i 1080 even the some of the reference and D cards though the steps are a little different but the same idea so that's it thank you for watching as always subscribe for more patreon.com/scishow stop that directly you can go to store it out gamers next to stock net to grab shirts or use coupon code gars nexus for five dollars off at ifixit.com and we'll see you all next time you