Gadgetory

in front of me is the aftermath of our Nintendo switch teardown we're currently down to the screen that's something I'm trying to figure that out how to get the screen off and separated might do that later but today we are tearing down what remains that'll be the dock and the joy cons which I don't know really that I expect to find a whole lot in here that's useful to me but maybe to some controller modders out there we can we can find something that's helpful in the future we're going to sort with the doctor see if there's anything interesting in here I know it's got a bit more going on than just a charging setup and a charging pass-through but before getting to that this content is brought to you by ifixit.com we're going to be using iFixit tools for this tear down including the protec toolkit that we use all the time for a GPU teardown you can use code gamers nexus at their website for a $5 off coupon so starting with the dock this one looks pretty simple compared to the switch itself which it wasn't necessarily hard it's a hell of a lot of ribbon cables and small screws a lot more than really seem necessary and I've still got it on the magnetic mat in front of me so this one is all why screws that all those tri wing screws it looks like just for notation purposes that there are four of the Y or the tri wing screws there one on the bottom left from that orientation one Center top right bottom right and I believe that's all for what we can see so far so let's start with those that should be pretty straightforward let's straight forward that comes off and then is there anything left not really exa phillips-head seems like the trend is generally speaking to do the Philips are silver and the Y ones are generally black so that gives us USB 2 there's a USB 2 there we're connected here for USB - and what did those screws I just undid do ah a bunch of screws down these holes they're hard to they're hidden if you get over to see those you have the right angle okay so we get so separated that's starting go up this pull apart it looks like oh yeah one more screw okay we've got power powers disconnected and this little module is a what goes in here for your USB 2 and one USB 3 port which I believe is what does the planet was a cease later or something so there's your 3.0 conserve of course is 2.0 type C and HDMI connector all on this side and that's the side that faces internally externally 2 USB 2 power cable and I'm guessing like a data ribbon or something and what else is on here so this Center module right there notes are three 2p 0 4 8 top line CR a second line gh T 7 d 9 3 third line and CH n 6 3 8 4 the fourth line yeah so it's an STM microcontroller not 100% positive I believe it's some arm based controller so that's the centerpiece and then what else do we have the Li what do they make here the oii is making the VLP 100 - q4 datasheet USB 3.0 hub micro control or controller rather supports rapid charging over USB enabled devices charging of devices at rates and access of baseline USB standards the current limit of USB 2.0 this is when I was written of course it's 500 milliamps reconfigured devices and the current limit that USB 3.0 is nine hundred milliamps so that's your limited current and they are saying the fan and device rapid charging implements typical typically at feature current limits between at 1,000 milliamps to 2,000 milliamps support simultaneous SuperSpeed high speed and full speed traffic and low speed traffic for downstream ports one upstream port and how USB advanced CMOS for low power consumption there's a lot of data out there on that on that USB controller we've got our STMicroelectronics controller processor or MTU vli USB controller tops i don't know if there's anything relative note now I've got another there's one more Philips here and then two more down these that hole and down that hole so we're going to start with this one it's accessible one more one more hidden under the ribbon this is three over here and three over here cool so let's go together like that spring necks charging electronics for the USB pass-through with the charge device with another spring down here in the very base so I think that spring kind of looking at this is just to push this thing out of the way so the two ports can mate obviously what else is going on I think that might really might be it this looks like it covers everything oh this thing's for the LED if you're wondering what that cables for so there's an LED they're charging LED plugs into the PCB and on this PC v8 that's in here for the connection to the switch is connected via this ribbon cable to the the microbes stmicroelectronics and the vli board for everything else so I think that covers this thing I'm not really sure there's much else we can do here stick this aside and start working on one of the controllers I think we want the red controller because this is the one with the IR camera in it it's got a bit more going on so we're going to take that apart the controllers help together by a bunch of Y screws again four of them or the widest criticism I use that's trivial there's our battery just say except pencil on it is easy L is the what's controller this right comes already let's get lower down on that there's the battery there's a battery now that wasn't a bad me though that was the IR camera this is the battery I ready to unplug the battery you pull up okay so I guess it's going to be not great to put back together because of Springs do that that looks like the NFC potentially so if that is I'm not super familiar with NFC to be honest because it's in the mobile world and we don't work with those devices but my assumption would be that's what this is if someone knows feel free to comment but I would that would be my guess which that's right there and so that would be around here on the controller puff the analog stick that's yeah that's right here so okay what else we got the battery what is the battery just for people who want to replace later the battery is h AC 0 0 6 and h AC - a - b pj MX - CO and then it is a three point seven volt 25 milli amp our 1.9 watt hour battery and i think that that's probably everything everyone needs to know okay so we got the battery and all this stuff the only I see i/o it's Broadcom so that's broad Tom makes all the wireless tech generally wireless an NFC stuff so the Broadcom chip it is BC mt-07 3 for you ai and then check a mind k FF b 3g third line at UK 1 6 3 either 0 or D P 11 and last line at 6 2 4 5 2 3 T 2 so that's that one Brown who cares to look it up enough CDE a next to it that's right there that's that chip blue cable goes into the closest connector so there's your analog stick is your padding for the buttons right there I can see that squish when you push them there's the underside sensors and that's what you're actually actually pushing when it depresses so that's what gets pushed three or four buttons then there's another button up there another button right there so there's your switches now how long those last I don't know they're not labeled or anything to have no idea well I think that's everything for this controller can't get any more torn down than that ir is right there and we've already taken everything else apart HD rumble huh another has to think it whatever it is is in there but that seems like it's just probably controller for this analog stick definitely not on to the battery it's going to suck to put back together I'm not sure where the HD Rumble comes from okay so I think I think that's about as far as we can get here I'm not sure where that has a whole HD Rumble thing works I haven't read any documentation or anything like that or seen anything beyond their video where they doing that ice cubes comparison so I'm not positive where that originates maybe someone in the comments has a better idea I don't again I don't work with these types of devices I don't work with phones we're just taking it apart so if you can feel it on the top middle and bottom on this controller I would have to guess there's something going on here or here but I don't know exactly exactly how that works hollar goes all the buttons I had to get a screw out of there so I dumped everything out instead yeah this is not gonna be fun to put back together I wouldn't recommend it on my seat replace a battery or something if you replace in the battery that's not too hard so the first thing that is exposed and I would imagine at some point there will be those batteries on sale on eBay or something probably straight from the factory with with no brandy common so so you might be able to use their service the battery if you want to in the future because of course let's the oh my on batteries don't last forever they do start to reduce as you've grown through charge cycles they reduce their battery life and endurance but that is the joy calm the right joy Khan and the doc and when we previously tore down the switch itself and now I need to put it all back together but that's point I'm going to happen because we're working on the 1080p I and a couple more rise in SKUs so thank you for watching as always hit the patreon link of a personal video or go to patreon.com/scishow sexist to help that with this coverage subscribe for more i'll see you all next time you