Gadgetory

we already disassembled this which was the ps1 classic it probably still works just that it's it's pretty simple parts ultimately we have a video on that separately if you want to see it but what we haven't yet looked at is the controllers and this is arguably one of the most important aspects of the ps1 classic first of all because it's weight is equal to the entire device that plays the games and secondly replicating the mechanical feel of playing the games on the original controller this one is important getting the experience right so we have these we're gonna disassemble one of these from the new ps1 classic it's a $100 console whether or not it's worth it we haven't yet reached a verdict but we'll link it below anyway in case you think it is and then we're gonna take apart one of these and see how the components differ between the 24 year old controller and the new one and also I'm going to need this because we bought the 24 year old controller used before that this video is brought to you by EVGA SRT X 20 atti XE ultra video card we recently use this to beat our founders edition overclocking results with its additional power target Headroom and cooling capabilities the XE Ultra uses a 2.7 extra thick heatsink for a quiet operation under low loads but also maintains higher clocks on average over the FE model learn more at the link in the description below here's the process we're gonna take for disassembling these to make the best comparison we are going to follow the same steps for each one and just mirror them so it'll be take off the back of this one take off the back of this one and keep progressing through it and if there are any differences even in the screws we'll find them just because it'd be kind of interesting to see what has changed over all tools for the job we're just gonna use a pair of Phillips head I fix it screwdrivers I'll link the protec toolkit down below and then we're working on our GN mod mat which you can find on store doc gamers nexus net which will be useful for screw tracking on the grid even though it's got a GPU silhouette let's start with the old controller this is a legitimate ps1 controller with a copyright date that is not externally visible but it is from the SCP H 1080 that's the controller and it came with the original 1000 series ps1 and is probably kind of gross this was probably not used since like 20 years ago which means anything on it is dead by now but we did buy it on eBay so a probably good idea just do some basic cleaning first other Philips this been opened before actually these are slightly stripped some of these so previous owner may have cleaned this out hopefully that's just glue or 20 years of human skin we have a PCB that we'll have to look at but let's first take apart the new one and see so far these steps are the same although these screws are much cleaner and not tampered with controller Sony Computer Sony interact they've changed the name of the company used to say Sony Computer Entertainment but legal legal changes they cannot get away with skirting I don't think sort of the most immediate differences here you can see that the base of the original controller has these plastic supports underneath the button panel and the d-pad we're just pushing down on those things give some rigidity beneath them that would be my understanding of what those are there for and then because there's no electromechanical function other than just support and then this one instead of having these supports on the base of the controller they've moved them to the top of the controller and attach them to the underside of the PCB mount which is actually quite different as well because if you look at this old pcp size difference is tremendous first of all they've also got like pieces of PCB in here for the button the bumpers we'll show you that in a second but man this is just tremendously different it's amazing how much we've shrunk in technology but so whole PCB here versus just a small one that's attached to a piece of ply like what the supports now moved to the plastics probably a bit bit more sturdy that way but for the cabling that's been changed to one that you could actually disconnect from here if we cut the if we sort of unwrap that cable that'll come out that's just a USB header so there you go micro USB for this cable which is pretty cool because it's USB to USB so if you wanted to plug this into your system you could like your PC so that plugs in which is obviously a major technological difference whereas this one has just a a pin out that feeds into a much fatter cable and that is six wire cable you can see a capacitor underneath it which we don't really see these types of capacitors and this kind of electronic too much anymore where it's a really small device now we have much more power efficient solutions they don't require the same type of capacitance we also have smaller capacitors so look at that in a second but mechanically the differences are already so much significant and a lot of that is getting rid of this massive unnecessary PCB what about measurements so standard centered about eighty one point seven plus or minus one Center to seven er that's pretty damn good base of ELINT and r2 right 110 point four four pretty damn good or nine point eight six I would say that's within error so that's about 880 one point four it's about eighty one point four okay so let's just let's go ahead and call it say controller is more or less exact replica in terms of the distance of everything in size and so that's pretty cool that's true to treat a spirit and other differences here so the base you can see that there are these two supports around the screw down there which don't exist on the new one and then you can also see that the trigger button or whatever their official terminology is is installed a bit differently where they've got this sort of bracket down here that's screwed in and act as a support and they can't they can't press right now because no it's not attached to anything whereas this one does not have the external support it's just a button it's completely independent independently mechanical hold itself and all that stuff on the top half buttons here are executed a little differently you've got this entire external housing around the switch itself that's the switch it's a rubber switch we don't know what it is yet probably Omron or something like that is this that is a rubber switch as well pretty similar similar feel overall but housed it differently and then for this PCB that controller has indeed not this but like I see I ok BC 8 3 0 AZ 0 B revision a 0 1 so do with that what you will I'd have to look it up and maybe maybe well in a bit that's a controller of some kind as an integrated sorry like you know literal controller not a handout game controller ribbon cable here attached into probably another small PCB will look up that USB cable you could easily replace it if you need it to that's really nice meanwhile on this one it's just a bunch of PCB so you have these cables running around the whole outer edge of it those connect with the PCB here that it looks like is acting as an interconnect to the trigger buttons and then it's going down it's got the wire here to interface with the base PCB I'd be curious what the latency difference is between button presses on new and all this by unnoticeable but it is I'd be curious to see if it's measurable let's get this PCB out of here this should just lift up this whole thing might lift out to you but let's maybe extract the PCB first I think ok got it those cables are exceptionally easy to break so if you ever open one of these be careful of that so this has a little clip on it there's a clip over here and a clip here so these two clips right there you just push those back and then it'll pop off the rails that it's on so we push those and this should kind of come up on its own there it goes okay so you have to rotate it to get it out it has a little notch in there so here's our PC bead there's what's under it if you're curious just black plastic and we'll check the other side in a second PCB let's be careful that liquid metal on there so the PCB we're doing through that side that side a this is side B and there's nothing there for you to look at but that's what it looks like we'll get a shot of those names if anyone wants to look them up online try and find these parts or something for replacements later you'll have a reference material shot for that it's a very simple PCB it's just acting as as the literal controller of the processor of the input how do we disconnect this okay so this is pretty easy actually this is this is good construction I will give them that it's very serviceable so clip here you just kind of push that plastic clip there's a pop when it reseats itself so clip and then there's a clip down in the bottom left controller near the left hand grip over here right there and then the other one was up there that's all it is just those two that's really cool that it's so serviceable there you go that's not something you're gonna see on the old one I will guarantee you that so breaking that ribbon cable if you did in fact break it would be very bad you know any controller basically or a new entire strip here so for this you've got a ribbon cable that runs to everything you can see these little trace wires inside of the cable and the plastic housing those are running to all the buttons and where's the button itself is it even yeah so I think what's happening here you've got your literal buttons on the top like the the ones you activate and then those press against the switch which the the switch is going to be in here I don't have switches I guess the the accurate term if there is no electrical function I'll show you that in a second that's pretty cool there's no electrical function in this switch is entirely mechanical so you push that down it's got a spring it activates it depresses the black bump there and then that impacts against the electrical switch over here which is this plate it's not really a plate but it's just thin sheet of plastic and then you've got the wires running through that to detect the signal so that is the modern version before we tear this down further let's look at the old one this is this is a pretty good design very compact very cheap and if it holds up it's good I mean that's you kind of question how long that holds up but I'm also not familiar with the other controllers Sony makes so I don't know if that's their standard so this one we're gonna unseat the cable you can see that it's really crimped in there that disconnect that might not disconnect I could individually remove the pins from this header the header itself I do not believe unsought has attached to the PCB so we're gonna leave that there you've got an old cap which is rated 485 degrees Celsius so you probably I don't know how many hours to get at 85 C but every 10 hours beyond that you lose half the life of the capacitor but these shouldn't get too hot anyway okay so that was simple enough okay so these pull up this is actually pretty clever engineering as well for the resources they had of the time to remove that let's put this aside for a second will compare there's at the same time as Matt's getting grossed from the used part stuff so here's the major difference is the the top side of the PCB you can see that's been completely replaced with just a plastic underlying sheet and then this electrical is just K with some buttons integrated in it that the router pushes impacts and on the old one it's a PCB you've got a couple small caps in there a couple resistors for the cable you can see the pins this is why we couldn't remove that cable the pins are sticking through the PCB and soldered so that does not come out which is good that I stops trying and there's a small SMD in the middle this is all old news by now but nine seven five one H CFS eight one two one I don't know anything about that part it's too old for me to have ever heard of and grow solder work on this side but that's where you're getting the attachment for the bumper button which is attached to its own PCB you can see those pins sticking through on this side so that cable is routed through the PCB and then all soldered in there that's a thick PCB - not not that many layers just thick like plastic style and here's the correct orientation of it right side up so there's square X circle triangle and then you're left down right up so forth so this is the plate that you're impacting with the rubber switches on the the old controller and we'll look at that - and see how that one how the build quality is the assembly is on that one even though I kind of don't want to touch this part of the controller so this is the old let's just pull this one off and don't maybe don't zoom in too much and give everyone something to have nightmares about that's not that bad though and here's the new one so which one did we just pull out there just put them on the same orientation so that's pretty remarkably similar considering there's 24 years of age between them so I mean aside from being clear the button itself that's pretty damn similar all of this one's kind of worn out but that's because it's used internally the okay internally this thing the d-pad the d-pad is braced by this crossbar on the original controller is not braced on the old one I used on the new one sorry I you just push this out right now and other than that and it's a d-pad they don't appear to have changed very much than some basic construction like the plastic mold and these buttons if you look at them they're same as well they come out completely there's there's start select there's this start and select same kind of button a little bit different the way it's supported and and held in those pins on the side the pin holes and the last one is right there versus right there so I mean if you watch the same construction for the most part it's really remarkable how how identical they are and I do wonder if they're rehashing on any of the original molds or for what their process is for retaining accuracy this is Chris you can see that in the reassembly here actually this is interesting they don't have this on the old one so and take too careful attention of how these went and originally but you can see on this one there are two different sets of mounts so you've got a horizontal slot on those two opposing and then a circular hole on these two opposing and if you look at the plastic controller those will correspond so that actually will make it easier to just kind of remount it in a suitable fashion if this new one is better at keeping grime out of it it's a it's a bit more sealed than noticing like all these parts just fit tighter and they go over the edges of the plastic which could impact the amount of gross sness that gets in there but if it also just because it's brand-new I'm just starting select you can see that there are two rubber switches you can push for that one so there's depress into the into the buttons over here that's good enough pretty remarkable differences overall first of all I want to touch anything that I wash my hands that old controllers kind of grips secondly the PCB has gone to this that's that's your PCB on the new on it's not even that complicated in terms of components I mean there's a couple caps on there a USB input USB controller and a ribbon cable from this PCB on the old one much of which is completely unused I mean that's the only users on the back side too but they've compressed it on the new one to be just the small PCB I held up and then instead of having a physical like a hardened PCB a real PCB printed circuit board on the top side for the buttons they've replaced it with just ribbon cable that runs to all the switches so pretty damn cool interesting teardown overall I would say a bit bit more interesting than the ps1 classic itself but you should check that one out too because we go through the components on here what they're capable of and it is massively improved over the ps1 but it's also running emulation software so it has overhead on there that didn't exist before so that's it for this one as always subscribe for more if you find these components interesting we'll link it below but just we we might not think it's actually worth it yet I'm not sure so if you want to buy it you can click the link but we're not telling YouTube's we don't know yet otherwise store like heroes X's not net to pick up a shirt like this one or a mod matte like the one I was working on during the video and you get a page on our coms schemers exit stops out there as well thank you for watching I'll see you all next time