Gadgetory

we've seen the results we've seen the verdict for the twenty series cards and the twenty atti seems like the one that makes the most sense even though it's way too expensive for the performance game that you get but that's not what we're here to do what we aren't here to do is see if we can make this thing better maybe we can get it closer to the performance difference the the performance price Delta if you will by hybridizing it so what we are going to do is pull this thing apart again and you can see the previous videos for why that's annoying and put a liquid cooler on it if we can figure that out this will be part one where we build it up figure out how to make a liquid cooler fit forcibly and then we'll do a part two where we have the thermal testing results and see does it gain us any meaningful performance versus the stock card before that this video is brought to you by EVGA SRT X 20 atti XE ultra video card we recently used this to beat our founders edition overclocking results with its additional power target headroom and cooling capabilities the XC Ultra uses a 2.7 extra thick heatsink for a quiet operation under low loads but also maintains higher clocks on average over the FP model learn more at the link in the description below so quick note on how these things work then they are thermally constrained and also constrained by current and power limitations the biggest constraint we have faced is unfortunately power and liquid cooling can't fix that but it can stabilize the frequency and we might be able to get it a bit higher because the frequency temperature curve that NVIDIA has for the 20 series is really similar to boost 3.0 where just by dropping temperature like a couple degrees ambient temperature that is and feeding the card cooler temperature putting more fans on it we were able to get the score and times by extreme a bit higher and part of that is at UC temperature frequency scaling at about 63 degrees you see it again at something like 70 degrees heat again at 79 83 84 and then 87 and so every at least once every 10 degree increment you will see a clock increase as you drive temperature down we are going to see how far does that go and at what point is it just impossible to improve given the current limitations and then maybe we can try a shunt mod and see if that helps us out by using liquid metal to short the shunts on the card see if Nvidia's figured out how to how to block that venue of improving the hardware at this time we have to go through this again so cart has to be disassembled for the 18th time you can see here it's getting a little beat up now let's just go ahead and time has speeded up one more time any faster than last time so 3 2 1 go okay time on that I'd be a little slower than last time I was like 5 minutes something but either way it's taken apart again so now it is time to start working on the actual hybrid part of the mod this is not difficult at this point and we've done it several times now but first of all haha thank you - they're not a sponsor for this video or anything but we have much appreciated I fix its I fix a pro tech toolkit for all of these things I'm just gonna give them a shout out because it's gotten a lot of use from last week and the speed-up from having that toolkit has been significant and we'll link it below if you want to grab one but they did they did a sponsor our tool wall behind me so I'll just point that out - anyway here's the card and it is now time to get rid of the cooler and start working on improving everything so first thing we need to do is figure out hole space you know which i think is 96 millimetres 98 no oh this is wait a minute okay I see I see so these holes are the ones that are used there are two sets of holes ones for the base plate one is for the actual cooler on the GPU officially these wider ones are the GPU holes and that's ninety seven and a half let's just call it 98 let's call 98 so 98 millimetres on those and then if we went with the inner diameter which I guess we could do that would be 73 so need to figure out if we have any mounting brackets that will fit that size we have some brackets for different coolers and these drawers and we've used various assortments of these for previous hybrid mods like the vega cards we're not particularly easy we actually for those we took one of these actually the intel version of this bracket and we drilled holes into it for Vega and that was a special mod but let's just check the whole space and on each of these oh wow so this is a hundred and three one hundred three millimeters on this inner diameter of the Intel bracket so that's not gonna work if we cut it down to 98 I think the AMD bracket we made might work the Vega one no I don't know maybe that's like if we cut a hole right next to the existing hole we could get that to work so let's put that as maybe these aren't great because they're not square they're rectangular used to be quiet one that's a better option these are kind of customized well these are from some deep cool kit sometimes we could use that it also 72-hole millimeter hole spacing would work but we'd have to drill holes for that too and that I think that would be inside of the inner diameter of the rain's that's not gonna work either okay so let's see if the be quiet kit will just mount on here cleanly here we have our wall of GPUs these are all Nvidia on the green trays and these on the yellow trays what I'm gonna do right now is pull just a Pascal one I can't remember the exact hole spacing on this and check that because that will help give me an idea if any of my previous mods would work on this one spacing here is 82 millimeters 81 82 for that outer diameter so we might be able to get away with an Arctic kit maybe or the EVGA no I don't think the EVGA want to wear but that's maybe AMD cards it's pull of Vega card that's 90 so that's roughly 90 millimeters that's not we we may end up taking the approach that we use for Vega and custom drilling something that kind of suck if so but I think we're gonna try to be quiet and just see if we get lucky because that one's got sliders instead of screw holes so having a slider for the screw gives us more room to play and we have the be quiet loop up here so I'm gonna grab that that is the silent loop 280 can using this for hybrid mods since we got it for the Vega cards most recent Titan V most recently got this and the Intel Hades Canyon one which have to be very careful about the mounting tension of using this because you can start cracking the PCB if you go too hard on it so we got to be careful let's give this bits EVGA told us their hybrid would be available in October so of course we have to one-up them on their own product and make our own first dam that is that's very close to working but the holes aren't quite lining up so I'm gonna leave that thermal paste on there for now all we're doing is just checking contact anyway and I'm gonna grab some more hardware screws out of the drawer and nuts and bolts and see if we can get this together so let's try like some packs of these machine screws or something I'll just note this for anyone who doesn't already know got a plugin of course the GN mod mat on the table here is what we're working on this is a product we make and sell on store dock gamers nexus net specifically for modding purposes for anti-static properties but also it's just a really cool surface with some power pin out diagram stuff like that so I found a bag I labeled Titan V so that's fortunate kept those together I guess knew they'd be coming out again so these I could get a different different not to work with those and it would be fine but an effort of saving a trip to the hardware store let's see if these will work instead that looks good and that looks good as well okay have to be kind of careful with mounting this to not apply too much force pulling on it in one direction so we're just gonna mount it and then pull it apart just to see if these things even fit together this is always fun oh man that might work that would make this really easy I think that's kind of work that's the same let me check this is the same hole spacing as the Titan V actually so I can't remember how that whole spaceman was that one had HBM on it so significantly different in that aspect but it looks like it might be the same pretty damn close if not the same 98 nice okay cool so okay so now that we know the whole space is the same we can proceed with some relative confidence and just apply the same exact mounting hardware to this then remember this one side was was much harder to screw in than the others I think I went think I want the opposite way on the Titan V but let's just try this that's just because of clearance issues obviously this cooler is not meant to be used to this particular way I don't think be quiet officially endorses this use of their cooler okay so it looks like this is gonna work and now I just have to pull the cooler back off and put thermal paste on there because we're currently we have the old paste on but this will definitely fit and the cooler has already got some course here maglev fans on it from the Titan v mod so we're good they're good to go in all aspects vram this can get some coin from direct air and videos reference PCB or VR I might say is actually good enough that we don't need really direct contact clean we can just use airflow so these this vrm will be fine even without any fins on it and just blasting it with air will be more than sufficient it'll be better than the stock cooler anyway and we took stock cooler vrm temperature measurements we can do that again and just see does it look like it's doing worse than it was before and if it is we can account for it by putting some aluminum fins on there but I think we're good here so at this point I'm just gonna take this back off clean the throttle pays to put new thermal paste on there and then we can move forward with with getting this thing to no system and figuring out what we're gonna do with it so reveal the TU 102 GPU once again this is a 300 a model it is factory overclocked of course because it's a Founders edition card but we're gonna do a lot more than the factory we're just going to run into current limitations I think and if I want to fix that I guess we can try shunt mods next but I want to go with just straight power or started throwing will testing first then power texts testing next if we want to do that the shunts they're just for reference we have one over here on the PCB that 5mo 5 milli ohms shunt so that's one of them and then we have another shunt right there 5 million on the backside or in this area on the backside there's a third one and those will correspond to the connectors actually I should check I'll just check right now and see where specifically does each each resistor correspond with the power connectors we're just going to do a resistance check I think one of the previous times I done demonstrated this with the right idea but the wrong practical application so I'm going to correct that this time and show you the right way to do it that's the multimeter we're using then we have I'm just gonna show you we have a cable here with exposed wire scheme now if we plug that in this is a 6 is this no there's an 8 pin we can plug this into an 8 pin power header and you'll see that we have the black or the ground ones up facing me and that will correspond with these pins here so if we look at the pin out these correspond with the top line which again is ground or black and going down here and then the inner line in here will correspond with yellow which is 12 volt as you can see indicated by the yellow cables so that's your 12 volt and if we reference our GN mod matte which again is on store documents nexus net over here what we're trying to do is find the twelve one of the twelve volts and test it for resistance versus one of the shunt resistors and in doing so we'll learn if those are in a direct line to each other so we can test one of these versus the shunt resistor and what we're looking for is zero resistance or that they are continuous so let's start with this one I'm just gonna probe the top side of this and we're going to go for the 12 volt on the inside here 0.2 for the resistance on the on the multimeter and just as a demonstration let's grab let's see if these are continuous they probably should not be but let's find out not continuous so you'll see on the same pin on the other connector the same pin in terms of the pin out we're getting numbers all over the place and it is not continuous these are not connected so this shunt resistor corresponds to this particular power header that would be the one on the Left facing down on the card cuz when i probe it you'll see 0.2 it's not touching anything that's 0 L and then if we grab something completely different you'll see very variable resistance reported so this one corresponds to that let's see what this corresponds to know these are not continuous that might correspond with the PCIe slot is this a shunt resistor no well we need to get rid of that anyway that's not a shunt resistor there's a third one on the back so for this one continuous those are continuous so this shunt resistor let's just double check yes this shunt resistor core spawns too you can see is basically zero readout there so let's one down here if we probe that versus the other power header you'll see reports back 0.1 0.2 and if we look at again in our pinout diagram that's gonna be a 12-volt versus the shunt resistor so it's one of these and one of these versus the resistor so that that is backside corresponds to the other pin out front side top corresponds to the left one and then the bottom probably goes down to the PCIe slot but we're not going to play with those today today we're just doing the liquid cooling probably after that we'll look at potential shunt mod and see if we can lift some of the current limitations on the card we're not really sure depends on how strict on video wise if they put in any intelligence in there to try and stop us clean enough actually a little little cleaner that's clean it off okay so let's get some thermal paste on here if anyone complains about too much they're all pasted I encourage you to watch our to much their own page video where we prove your comments Ron preemptively so here's the thing with GPUs with GPUs you want too much thermal paste because you want this to spread and just sink in over here and the reason for that is if there's even a little bit of the dye exposed and builds oh I just talked about this in his own content because he's done it you can kill the GPU core you kill parts that are on there by them running too hot versus the rest of it because there's no guarantee it's on hold no guarantee that the a particular piece of circuitry you have failed to cool is covered by over-temperature protection it's not everything on the card is covered by those protections so this is a sufficient amount of thermal paste it will spread and cover the whole die and we have a shot I think maybe we can drop it in where I did the too much thermal paste that thermal grizzly car I owe nada actually right on to an Intel CPU and even when we did that in testing there was no difference the only difference is some of it gets into the socket which kind of when you remove the CPU but otherwise there's no downside in terms of thermals so all we're doing is protecting potential lack of coverage which would kill something to cut down now the other reason for doing quote too much they're all pasted on this is because I know it's gonna be a slip and slide while I'm trying to apply the cooler this thing is gonna slide around a bit and so by having extra on there it allows me some error whereas I'm applying it and it's sliding around because it's not meant to be applied to this device will still have some thermal paste in there for sure that will make coverage between the die and the cold plate now after doing this I'm going to remove the thermal pads that are on the device is still set them aside and we are instead just gonna blast air straight at the vrm components and the GDD r6 you see it's kind of moving around as I'm applying that but because we put so much thermal paste on there I'm confident that there will be enough where we're not lacking coverage in any particular spot and potentially exposing the die to permanent damage so we'll be good on that and then again VRAM VRAM that'll be cooled by direct air and direct air only so now I just need to tighten these down we'll be done okay so what I'm gonna do here is make sure everything's hand tight we're not gonna go more than that because it's pretty easy to start bending the PCB we really don't want to bend it it's okay to have a little bend in there but we'd want to relieve that stress right away because it can cause damage to the internal circuitry you can for example create memory artifacting if you crack some of the lines in there it's not warped presently so we're good I'm just gonna measure I get a depth gauge here and measure how long through I've pushed each of these screws and make sure they're all even for even spreading of force so that's eleven point five four millimeters Wow nice it was also eleven point five for this is where we're sitting right now eleven point five four millimeters I'm those two so this is just to spread the load evenly spread the force evenly across all four screws so that we don't have one that strains any part of the PCB more than the other potentially causing it to crack this one needs to come through a bit more I'm actually gonna lock this at eleven point five four so those are all even now I'm just gonna look at the board and see if there's any warping of the PCB so I would say that there's no meaningful warping of the PCB going on the straight edge just lines up with it so there's our hybrid Mahad way easier than the previous ones we've done with Vega Fe Titan V some of the others even but still the EVGA old GPU CLC's do not fit on this which is unfortunate because we like working with them they're much easier to use but we got to be quiet one on here at the CLC 280 it's what we use for the Titan V same whole space and I think as a Titan V and we've got two maglev fans on it the course here ml 140 s and then we're just going to remove the thermal pads and blast the thing with a lot of air from top down and from the front it'll be fine it'll be better probably GPU thermal or vrm thermals then the other the efi version of the card with this big thing on it so we'll see how it does I don't know like the temperature will definitely better that's that much is clear for sure the thermals will be better it's it just becomes a question of do those really get us anything for clocks does it get us any performance and it should but it might be single digit percentages I don't know it's it's gonna come down to how hard is this is this board current limited versus on the previous models and if we run out of any room whatever to do any what so ever do anything with we might just go ahead and try a shunt mod so check back for that as always subscribe for more this is part 1 part 2 we'll have the results need to do a lot of testing on it it'll take a think about a day or so so check back for that you go to stored I cameras access dot net to grab the mod Mac we used in this video if you found it interesting or useful for your own projects it's meant to protect the table more or less is the primary goal and also the parts on it and of course patreon.com slash games exits helps out directly in that method thanks for watching I'll see you all next time