Gadgetory

after we posted our teardown of this car the 2080 TI fe we immediately put on some thermocouples tricked out well because the cooler didn't disassemble very easily and of course all the counters you've never held one of these in their hands knew better how to take it apart and actually we're wrong but anyway we figured out how to take it apart and that's what we're gonna do today so that the card was already disassembled at a previous video we showed the PCB but the cooler we left the sample it worked out well just because there are more thermal pads in there and so for thermal testing purposes it made better sense anyway to just test it with that configuration before completely disassembling it and and then we also have before tests as well so we've got another card for that we talked about that more when embargo lifts anyway though today we're gonna take apart the rest of the cooler and there's a trick to it that's very Apple like in nature which is why many of the comments suggesting veins that we had already tried turned out to be wrong before that this video is brought to you by Lian Li is 11 dynamic a case largely designed by overclocker Deir Bauer for high-performance water cooling though our performance testing also Illustrated strong air cooling performance though 11 dynamic is affordable high build quality and offers a unique form factor case with dual PSU support by one now at the link in the description below so the trick for removing this you may have remembered that in the sped-up footage I spent well in real life it was about an hour but messed around with all different things of this and what we learned was that if you look closely you see that this cross beam is underneath this shroud which is underneath this black piece and pride like kind of pulling out the edges earlier of the base plate or the base plate and the top of the card we could see that the base plate in the end eat well just the base plate because the PCB was gone at this point you see that this base plate separated as a standalone unit and at the rest of this so the heatsink the shroud the embellishment here and this black part we could see that these all separated as a single unit a base plate was a single unit but we couldn't get it apart and I tried a few things I tried kind of prying up under the edges of this you can see it looks like there's a part here and I've mentioned this in the video it may about cotton cut but looks like there's a part you can pull up here and I clearly I've you know I've pride at it you can see the pry marks but it doesn't come up and you can get it a little bit but not much and then pulling up at the edges of this when the card is disassembled which will go back to that state in a moment you'd see that there was something in the middle holding it together so clearly there's a screw under here we knew that but getting this off was non-trivial and as I said it doesn't have being a better decision anyway for thermal testing because we got the thermocouples in there and ran through those tests can't show that data yet but so the trick the trick is that we will need one of these a heat gun and we're going to need a heat gun because the black shroud part here is glued with an insane amount of glue to the the next part of the card the supporting structure of the shroud so we're gonna need this today to heat up that glue from the outside so that we can then pry it off because just prying out it doesn't do anything if it's friggin super glued to the entire underlying structure it's not going to do anything except eventually you're going to either break your prying tool or start breaking parts of the black shroud and I wanted to avoid both of those things so let's get started then I'm going to reduce assemble this card it's not gonna take long we won't show it on camera if you want that you can check it out previously maybe a speed up or something but I need to take a back apart reclaim the thermocouples anyway which are on the vrm and the vram and we'll have that in the review and then then we can take apart the rest of the cooler and see what the cooler looks like because we don't actually know yet so let's call that time on the time-lapse and the other thermocouples later and then we have our cooler reduce assembled so now we just need to start working on heating up that top part after removing the rest of the screws in the cooler okay so now we're gonna set up our heat gun we're just using a TR industrial one that I bought and I've had for a while now we can set the temperature on this and for our surface we're working on top of a table obviously because those are actually required for PC building The Verge taught us that recently we didn't know that before so bullet dodged already had a table then I have to go buy one of those but we need that and then we've got our mod mat on the surface you can buy one of these on store techeuns nexus dotnet if you want to pick one up and they are excellent modding services and also pretty damn heat-resistant so that is why we're going to be using it today to protect the table a bit and then we're just going to point this probably right about there figure out the distance later and then start prying on the edges what I may do is is kind of sit that down like like that and hold the card above it and just move it around until things start to loosen up underneath all right so we're just gonna set this to 220 degrees Fahrenheit for right now and enough to boil water so we should be about where we need to be let it warm up for a second so tools I need for the job I need a prior or two we got one there I've got a spudger and then I'm also going to just put a flathead on our driver and that's just going to be for additional prying power and hopefully hopefully we can pry it off as it's loosened a bit and warmed up this will take a minute a couple minutes I know from my my sources here I know that the glue is just all over that plate underneath so there is going to be prying involved it's just we're hoping that the glue has broken its bond and it has not so we're going to take this up okay so we're going to 300 degrees max speed now something's gonna snap okay progress man there's a lot of glue gonna like glue so there's the trick yes says everyone in the comment said it's easy you just put your thumb over here and pull up on the tab there's nothing holding it down so this plate I think I understand it now and I've done this I of course as I've said in the past tear downs I actually don't care how our card looks so long as it still works and it does but and also just to be abundantly clear if it wasn't already in the intro this card has already been thoroughly tested game tested everything's done so this card is done we don't need to worry about it anymore but anyway so what we've got is a plate that separates and this is not it didn't break it actually intentionally you can see it's a clean cut intentionally separates from another plate and now I think I understand a way to do this so in the future it looks like it's probably under it and pushing against this is ultimately what freed it and I mean I chewed up the whole outer side don't really care but you know this is this is what happens when there's no there's nothing on line for us to look up we just gotta figure it out so figured it out but you can push up from under and that'll crack it along with the heat gun at I was about 400 degrees Fahrenheit 500 maybe so that cracked it off and separated it from the underlying plate which is still intact shockingly which has an LED cable under here so prying on this side I eventually stopped because I knew there was an LED over there and we'll talk about that more in a moment as well there's some interesting news there but got that off tons of glue on it it's still hot still pretty hot Electronics not hot actually the metal plate absorbs at all or the the other plate is this that's actually metal as well I thought that was plastic so there you go it's metal plate not plastic stand corrected they're not sure what that is I have to see the underside but anyway we've exposed four more screws and now we can see the rest of this thing so let's let's finish pulling this apart see what else is underneath first thing I want to know is what's going on with the LED because when you plug it in as you've all seen in footage from Nvidia Zone Gamescom event the LEDs are green but the cable is capable of RGB so is there an RGB controller under this plate that is the question I have next the secrets of the Nvidia founders Edition series cards is it really stuck in there so let's just leave those in there for now at this point I think man this is so scratched up but it's fine it's still really hot but I think we can start separating it no there's one more screw one more screw there we go it's all falling apart just really gonna suck to reassemble so as the engineers we spoke with said the vapor chamber is soldered to the fin stack but the fin stack and the vapor chamber are not soldered to the base plate is this a plug no let's glue okay nice so we've used glue to glue to hold some of the cables in yep okay there's more screws so to get this cable through that hole there are two screws on the other side holding in the retention plate and this is insane so they went from like 55 60 screws on one side to having even more screws so far 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Plus that bar 8 9 more screws throw well into the 60s for a screw count this is like completely crazy the amount of screws used for this card this is why it costs an extra hundred dollars it's not because really of performance or anything it's because they used a thousand screws for who knows what reason get their own pads though very good thermal pads I will be replacing those but cards already tested so that's fine okay so there's a base plate and not much to see here they've got the same the throne pads that they had on the other side and like I said would be replacing these now I do have another card actually have several more cards so that's all good and then we have just an aluminum base plate and that's it and that contacts with the vapor chamber directly which is there's a vapor chamber here that's what this big chamber is and you can that tab on the end is the dead giveaway that something is a vapor chamber looks like a tiny heat pipe it's actually part of the vapor chamber where it's closed and we have the nickel plated copper cold plate here which is exposed through the other side it's actually a marking where this thermal pad goes I'm not sure what that is for like I'd have to look at the PCB to figure out what that's on top of but and then which is probably vram cut out here for air so I guess some air actually does get into the hole not a whole lot but it's right over the IO side of the vrm so some air can get down there some air can get down into the base plate anyway on the non io side of the V RM and there's the top of the fin stack that's pretty cool-looking so we have some typography typographical changes you can see the ups and downs where it cuts out for either airflow reasons or to connect with the cooler above it because that goes down into there so there's the topology of the aluminum heatsink it is to give NVIDIA credit this is the biggest heatsink they've made in recent years actually and any any cards I can remember this is the biggest heatsink Nvidia's downwards because they need it on these so anyway that's the vapor chamber that's the base plate and now we get down to the the rest of it which shockingly somehow still has more screws so we're into the 60s at this point and then we have three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve thirteen what so there are I think that's it I think that that has to be it looks like 13 more screws so Nvidia is into the almost or probably into the 70s with this cooler design 7d screws how do you have 70 screws look at any 10 series partner card even two slot cards with two fans and it's like six and so I think I think the reason they do this all there maybe over engineering or something like that but I think the if there's an actual reason if we're going to give them video the benefit of the doubt and assume that there's a reason to have 70 screws and there probably is part of it is probably because of the vapor chamber design where there's absolutely zero airflow other than the things the holes we've just shown down to the PCB and that would require very tight tolerances between all of the different parts there are a ton of parts on this thing I could let's just look at there's a top plate there's the plate under it there's PCB for RGB LEDs which are actually just green right now but this absolutely supports RGB it's got a controller for it so this is an RGB LED that they've for whatever reason limited to green but and then so anyway top plate plate under that PCB embellishment here shroud itself fans of course need screws base plate need screws cooler need screws back plate need screws IO need screws so a lot of screws holding this thing really tight together it is it does honestly seem excessive but so be it and then for the fans what are they they're using ABC fans these are 12 volt point six amps ball bearing fans and they are if you're curious a model da PA zero eight one five beats 2u p zero zero one if you wanted to know what they are and those are ABC ball bearing fans as for the rest anything special here no cable LED cable just again shockingly still intact and that's it man what a pain that was and there are no more thump ads so lots thrown pads lots of screws there's the there's the found Edition cooler that's the 1080i or twenty atti excuse me and now it's I guess it's time to well we have a plan for this we have a plan for the PCB that does not involve putting this cooler back on it which is another oh yeah those are the ones that you behave okay cool so we have a plan for the PC be it does not involve putting this cooler back on it and that plan is something that the longtime viewers of the channel will be familiar with so you'll be seeing one of those videos again pretty soon and if you don't know what it is keep an eye out for post embargo we've shown you everything we can at this point under the the review embargo but now performance data must wait and that is the only thing that we really can't show yet its performance data so yeah that's that's the card I mean it's it's crazy it's really it certainly is high quality in so far as its construction given video that this particular unit is it's not really so high quality anymore but high quality construction completely crazy assembly they really want to keep you out of this thing I mean there is so the getting to the PCB is not hard if you want to put an e ek water block on the PCB it's just screws in the back its these so if we get a shot of those that's the pile of screws you are removing to get into the PCB it's not impossible actually some of them you don't even have to remove these silver allen key ones you don't have to remove those so anything that's in the cooler does not have to come out it's the cooler itself that Nvidia really wants to keep you out of for some reason I don't know why they used glue here I guess if if we're to assume that it is for a valid reason it's probably because it's prettier and that seems to be what they're going forward with this I mean there are no screws in that so yeah if I guess it looks better maybe that's why yeah otherwise I don't know I our ma will be a bit higher because you're not really going to be able to clean out these fins sufficiently the best way to clean this out if you buy one of these and you don't put a water cooler on it and you just leave the stock cooler on the best way to clean it's gonna be get an air compressor and blast it into the fans and you'll hold the fan blasted in there or blast in the sides and that'll be how you you clean the dust out of the thin stack because otherwise it's completely inaccessible so I can just make a point here while we have this disassembled it took this much effort to get to here and then there are technically some of that stuff you could skip we're being realistic you should separate the PCB and everything else just to keep it clean and make sure no PCB components get damaged if you want to service the fans so and actually I think you might have to pull it fully off anyway but actually yeah yes there's a lot to do but anyway if you want to reach service the fans here's the point I want to make servicing the fans requires all the work we just did it requires that pile of screws it requires the other assorted screw is lying around the table and it then requires taking these three out one of which is under a cable for the fan so you push that out to the side and have to lift this gate a bit push it over there and then three screws here so if you buy one of these hope that you never have to service the fans because it's not gonna be something yes if you really have to you honestly I have someone who just took this apart if I had another video card lying around and could use that for a week I'd well two to three weeks if we're being realistic I'd rather send the cooler end for NVIDIA to deal with in the warranty department so you have to serve as the fans this is going to suck to get in here this is like it's just buried there no screws under there fortunately it's just the back of the hub but yeah all of that then six more screws you can buy the ABC fan online I'm sure there are similar fans if not but and then you have to reassemble it all and in that process you'll have to replace half the thermal pads because they got ripped apart when you're disassembling this thing and although you can remove the plate in a cleaner fashion than I did without scratching it it's likely that most users are going to scratch it because most users aren't going to know what they're in for so this design although it looks pretty I would have to say is is non-functional insofar as its serviceability and repairing this thing even cleaning it it's gonna suck but they they do have a fairly high IP rating for dust resistance it's just that dust will get in there it's a computer it's gonna do that so cleaning dust it's gonna be hard placing the fan is going to be hard hard not not the best design for serviceability the board partners have really got this down a lot better it seems like NVIDIA just doesn't care about that aspect or they didn't consider it they were more focused on everything else so that's it that's that's the cooler from when he thought it was as simple as just prying it off there's a lot of glue under there things we've learned so if you want to remove this I I have learned on your behalf because there is not a pool of evidence or information on Google just yet and it's not all I mean not many people have these things we've learned prying under here I mean it got me to the end goal obviously made it ugly the difference is I don't care and you probably do and this is going to violate also all kinds of warranties there's no way this is covered anymore and it's it's pretty obvious that I pried at it so what we've learned then is that heating it definitely to like 500 Fahrenheit the guns in Fahrenheit I don't know sorry so heating it around there and then use a sponge or like the really thin one I was crying with earlier this thing used something like this this isn't in the iFixit kit and instead of probably not the sides here like I was doing try and pry it at the borders on this part now the problem is you're not gonna be able to reach any of the glue so because you can't reach the glue it's really just going to be I mean so there is an entry point here but if you just heat up the glue that'll be the best and then if you need to pry and pop like this thing eventually popped off because I was probably under it and so the screwdriver was coming in at an angle through this chamfered edge here where we thought it was originally like a thumb pole pry socket area so you shove the screwdriver through there and then you're trying to pop it up through that hole in the middle and that will apply upward pressure and push the plate off now to get at that point it is advisable to heat it up and now you've seen me go through it hopefully you can do the same without scratching up the card like I said though we're gonna move on from this cooler to something bigger and better so check back for that content should be a lot of fun thanks for watching subscribe for more make sure you go to store documents access net to pick up our mod mat like the one you saw in this video pretty heat-resistant it is an excellent building service high quality materials and 4 feet by 2 feet and freedom units since we're using the theme of Fahrenheit anyway so that's it subscribe for more I'll see you all next time