Gadgetory

every one today we're gonna be doing a short tutorial on how to use the deal it demodex to deal it the intel skylake X CPUs this is a tool made by dear Bauer the extreme overclocker and we use this tool to deal it the 7900 x7 960 X and 79 80 X e so it will work on all of those as long as there's guy like X before getting to that this video is brought to you by synergy the software that lets you share a keyboard and mouse between multiple systems if you have limited desk space and multiple computers to command synergy removes the need for a separate peripherals or a KVM and where it says over the network software use our link below to get 50% off the home or pro version with ssl this tool specifically must be used for these there are competing options we haven't tried them but the tool by their Bauer needs to be the dealer dime 8x you can't use the other deal it died mates he's made because they're for different size CPUs so this one's pretty simple it comes with a tool that's used it's just an allen key and use that to tighten things down it's also got a clamp and as we learn from their Bauer later after the first round the clamp is used to apply vertical pressure for resealing the CPU it is not used for deleting the CPU and then once you've gotten through all the deleting process you need a plan of action and that's going to include cleaning off the silicon adhesive potentially resealing it potentially applying liquid metal or other Tim things like that so you don't have to specifically apply liquid metal once you've gone through this process you could apply a better thermal paste as well or just replace it you can even shorten the height of the IHS distance from the die by cutting off some of the silicone adhesive all of those things would improve your thermals one final disclaimer here I've done this now for four of these skylake X CPUs that's all of them that I have so I'm not the most experienced person in the world at it I've got some experience with it I've definitely learned the hard way with the first one and figured things out and everything was good at the end of the day but just keep in mind that this is advice from the viewpoint of someone who has done this very recently on for CPUs but doesn't have any closely experienced someone like their Bower might so everything just followed carefully and keep in mind that this is really just an intermediate viewpoint so starting that with the deal at Diamond X you place the CPU into the CPU tray with the arrow aligned in the tray with the arrow on the CPU corner make sure those line up it's very important that you follow these instructions carefully because it's possible that you could damage the CPU insofar as chipping off like capacitor or resistor or something like that some damage isn't going to kill it some of it will everything you do here is at your own risk we will do our best to provide a tutorial on how to use this tool but ultimately it's always possible that even using the tool something could get damaged and you may end up breaking a 1000 or $2,000 CPU that's entirely on you so make sure you are well aware of the risks before you embark on this so that's dated you place the CPU into the tray as mentioned align the arrow with the arrow and the IHS should be facing up on the underside of it if you look through the bottom you'll actually see a cut out where the underside CPU components the SMDs will show through so that should be the substrate side on the bottom with IHS on the top once that's secured make sure it's not moving around make sure the corners are aligned properly and your Allen screws backed all the way out you can start tightening it down if you just kind of move the lever you'll see that the Smasher will call it the actual piece of metal that does that applies the force to the IHS directly that moves as you tighten the screw not a lot of tightening is needed here so you kind of just you can spin it by hand at first once you start facing resistance use the tool for a couple of turns do not apply too much force here we would recommend keeping an eye on the RFID chip in the corner of the CPU as a marker for when the IHS moves so watch that carefully once the distance between the RFID chip and the IHS changes you'll see the IHS kind of move maybe half a millimeter maybe one millimeter once you see that movement stop immediately back the screw out you've at this point broken the seal of the adhesive between the IHS and the substrate so now it's time to back everything out remove the cpu from the tray and just apply some careful force not rotational force and not pulling like to the sides not lateral force you want this to be a vertical pull upward using what we'll call the handles of the IHS from the substrate so that's important do not apply any sort of lateral like side-to-side or rotational force on this because you will chip a capacitor off of the substrate or a resistor or damage it in a way that means it may never boot again so be very careful apply some upward force look at the side of it you should see some separation between the IHS and the substrate and that means that you're good to pull it apart now if you feel like you're applying too much force just like any other tool in life then stop take a careful look at it and you may need to place it back in for a little bit more pressure from the D litter but if things are starting to move around then just apply some pulling force by hand do not use a tool do not stick anything under in between the IHS and the substrate use your hands only and remove the thing and that will be the D letting process so once this is done at this point you can either apply well first of all clean off the thermal paste so get just some alcohol rubbing alcohol and ideally a q-tip and clean off the thermal paste from both the IHS and the CPU die and when you're doing this be careful if you use a paper towel do not use your fingernails near anywhere close to the SM DS because again they're really fragile it's exceptionally easy to pull one off with a fingernail if you're not careful so once that's cleaned off the next thing to do look over the substrate make sure all the components look like they are where they're supposed to be if you are going to be resealing this would recommend cleaning off the silicone adhesive at least from the IHS because you can leave the the silicone adhesive on the substrate as a guide if you'd like and that's actually what we did in our deleting task so you can still get exceptionally good thermals even with leaving that adhesive on the substrate but definitely remove it from the IHS and you can do that by using just a small razor or we even used an expansion cover from a case to just kind of scrape it off it is copper under there so if you start seeing copper exposed that means you're pushing a little too hard so scrape off the adhesive clean off the thermal paste and take careful note of how the IHS aligns on the substrate for when you're done and you want to put it back on there we use the RFID chip as a reference point you'll notice that the IHS has a small indent near the RFID chip so you can keep that in mind for aligning them later speaking with their Bower removing the silicone adhesive from the substrate didn't really provide that much of a difference he has seen 1 2 3 degrees Celsius improvement over the process that I've just explained when using liquid metal so it's certainly not necessary but you could do it if you wanted to just be more careful because there are small components around it and a knife near those things could be bad so we're gonna leave it on there as a guide and take that he's up off the IHS with that done now it's time to either apply your Tim or liquid metal you will want to apply a very thin layer on the die and on the IHS of both for either material and when you're doing this now normally we just do kind of a blob on the top of IHS to connect with the cold blade but here we would recommend to spreading it carefully and more evenly over the die with a finger a credit card or a spudger of some kind so that you can make sure there's even coverage of the die it's very important there are no hot spots here so you'll want to do this manually and this is an instance where too much is too much or too little are both detrimental too much means that you're creating a bigger layer between the IHS and the die and you'll have worse performance to little means that you could without Eve knowing it have a hotspot corner that will burn out over time and cause damage or death of the CPU speaking of damage or death of the CPU if in the process of delayed and you accidentally remove the small component don't freak out just yet it's possible that the small component was a capacitor and if it was your CPU probably still works just fine you may have lost some ripple suppression capabilities or some other power related optimization but you may not need that cap for operation we actually have lost the cap on the 7900 X and it still works fine if you lose a resistor you might be screwed but just try not to do that now for the next step if you are doing liquid metal rather than Tim or if you're doing a conductive electrically conductive Tim some thermal paste is conductive it's very important that none of this makes contact none of it spills over the die and makes contact with the SMD s or traces that are exposed on the board so to prevent this one use a very tiny amount of both just make sure it spread it by hand make sure it's even and clean up the excess - you could use a tape to mask off the SMD s around the CPU and then remove the tape after you're done spreading or you could use something like a nail polish and apply it over the SMD s and even leave it there that way if there is spill over once you've reapplied the IHS it will be protected at least in theory by the nail polish and we've actually tested this we had liquid metal spill over contact areas that were coated in nail polish and it didn't short out as for why nail polish works I'm gonna read a quote from VSG a friend of the site who works at thermal bench when asked why 'it nail polish works so well with liquid metal BSG said nail polish typically has nitrocellulose or another functionalized cellulose in it which forms a thin stable film without a gap over items such as fingernails or in this case the capacitors and alcohol acetate helps move it into place and then promptly evaporates leaving behind just a thin film some nail polish formulations have benzene derivates toluene is a prime candidate used by some companies which does a similar job as nitrocellulose look at the composition before buying or using these as toluene isn't nice to play with even at lower concentrations so once you've protected the capacitors it's time to apply either the electrically conductive Tim or liquid metal which obviously is electrically conductive with liquid metal we kind of learned the hard way it's very easy to apply way too much seriously you need far less than you think because once you start smashing it around it'll spread out pretty well so in our original application the first time we used it just kind of pointing the thermal grizzly tube down the syringe down a whole lot of it came out of the tube and as we learned later you can siphon it back up just by pulling on the syringe near it it will suck straight into the tube so you get rid of the excess but what we've learned works pretty well is hold the tube vertically and very slowly apply pressure on the syringe plunger until you see a very tiny dot start to form at the end of the syringe then you can turn it over kind of DAB it down a little bit on the CPU and a very small dot not even a grain of rice just the smallest possible dot you can make out of the syringe will come out you can use that to cover the dye we would recommend using the black q-tips that are included with some of the liquid metal compositions you could use a normal q-tip as well just make sure none of the sort of cotton fuzz gets left behind and leaves a residue but use a q-tip of some kind spread it over the surface and the way you know if there's too much or too little again as we learned because we shorted out a capacitor everything was fine at the end but we shorted it so you got experience with this if you've used too much you'll see kind of a ripple pool where the liquid metal behaved is like water so if you're seeing it ripple or if you're seeing a pool when you move the cotton swab around that means you've probably used too much you should siphon some up with these Rindge or clean it with rubbing alcohol and spread it really evenly it should be as thin a film as you can possibly make without seeing the dye the eye or the the dye or the IHS on the opposite side apply this thin film to both the IHS and the dye but only over the areas on the IHS where it will cover the dye and then you can reseal it on top of the substrate we did not reseal we just put the IHS back on top and then use clamping force from the coolers to seal it all together but if you're planning to use this in a system for a long time you could reseal it with superglue in the corners which we're not going to talk about how to do today or you could use a silicone adhesive and reseal it around the edges just like it came but then you'd want to probably clean off the silicone adhesive on the substrate as well it's not necessary to reseal with glue but if you're a consumer it might be worth considering that said it's really not a big deal to leave it open just when you carry it make sure you're transporting it horizontally because with liquid metal it can spill or move around if you haven't clamped it down fully yet and haven't sealed it but if you sock it into a board and then install a cooler that will clamp it down well enough to effectively be resealed finally if you do have an issue where it won't boot once you've done all of this stop stop trying to turn it on take everything apart take the lid back off of the CPU and look carefully if you've had spillover of an electrically conductive compound onto capacitors or other components don't freak out yet it might not be dead clean it up very carefully we would recommend rubbing alcohol and a q-tip or something similar to that and and then make sure you just use less when you reseal it this time and try booting again if all you did was shorted capacitor it should be just fine it protected itself it failed the boot you're good if you cause contact between other components it could be damaged permanently but hopefully you can just clean it off and everything will be to go this is why we use the nail polish or other materials to mask off those SMDs because then you won't have this problem but that wraps it for this one so we are not the most experienced people doing this this is I've done four of these now but hopefully this helps guide some of you it's a learning process for sure the hardest part is the liquid metal and learning just how much to use it's very little but the delayed process is trivial so that's it for now as always you can go to patreon.com/scishow and access to helps out directly links to the dealer die mate and the liquid metal we like are in the description below and then as always store doc gamers nexus net to pick up one of our cool shirts subscribe for more thank you for watching I'll see you all next time