Gadgetory

hey everyone today we are doing our bill blog for the Vega frontier edition hybrid mod disclaimer I'm not sure this is going to work so we're going to try there may not be a results edition of this video it might just be built blog and then abject failure so we'll find out this is the Vega frontier edition card we already have a teardown if you're curious you can see that on the channel put a card in the video so you can find that or the review is also online so the challenge here is going to be figuring out how we get a liquid cooler mounted to these odd mounting hole positions so they are 64 millimeters apart whereas something like the rx series cards were closer to 53 54 52 point 5 something like that and the Nvidia cards don't fit either so this is a new unique hole spacing which means that we're going to have to have a new unique method to get a CLT on there before getting post content this is brought to you by EVGA and their hybrid mod for the GTX 10 series cards we were going to try and use one but it is made for GTX 10 series of cards if you have a 1080 TI 1080 1070 or other card like that you can find a link of the description below for the hybrid mod it's an easy mod to do and improves thermal significantly alright so speaking of that this is what I wanted to use originally because we've used it for basically all of these mods since the beginning of time except for the rx for a dihybrid mod that a lot of people seem to have forgotten we did because it was the most I don't know it was it was really the least organized of all of them in terms of the final product because we had to get a bunch of parts on a bunch of different things so the reason this won't work and any of the other aces that cooler is made for a GPU or a CPU even is because the hole spacing doesn't line up so as you can see we can line up one of them and that's it the hole spacing here is these verses these quite a bit wider so we can't use this kit and we also can't use the eighth attack CPU coolers because if we look at with my bracket if we look at this this is for an Intel CPU the holes just don't match I mean you can't even see any of them so we've got one here one here one here on here so that doesn't line up Intel is 80 by 80 apart on the LGA 1150 X CPUs I believe so that's no good we also have to worry about component clearance for things like the chokes so that's going to be a concern and then the next thing is do we want to try and keep this base plate just answers yes I would like to try to keep it but we've got a couple kits here so I pulled out every kit that I have for hybrid modding where you go through all of them see if any of them have a bracket that is adjustable if one has a bracket that's adjustable then great we'll use it if not then I have an idea for a mod that we can do that will involve a drill um so we'll see we'll see how it goes but we're going to start with the G 12 which I just have on top here and is the newest I've only used this once I used it for the MSI 10a DTI armor video and I am pretty sure right now that this isn't going to work but we're going to check that's not going to work there's just not enough that rules out the G 12 I was easy check the next one arctic Exelero 120 I've used this kit before I use this kit on the RX 4 80 these the heatsink yes the bag of heat sinks I'm not going to open because they're mean there they are these are BRM component heat sinks last time it took something like 30 or 40 minutes to get them all applied and repacked is a nightmare so we're not going to open that it's just heat sinks it might come in handy but not what we need right now what we need right now is an adjustable mounting plate that just uses a slide rail okay now good next one g10 nope okay so we have ruled out the g10 the g12 the Arctic whatever it was probably this Arctic one won't work either why maybe that one but I have the most faith in this one maybe not so looking more and more like we are going to probably resort to a DIY approach where's the manual oh there's our spacing right there 58 point four millimeters is the biggest one no good so we are left with the drill route and here is what I've been thinking of so this is an Intel mounting plate for an a2 tech cooler the way it works is you take something like this cooler just short tubes but whatever and you mount them like that to the cooler so it just sockets on there and we have clearance on the edges as you can see where that metal isn't being used for anything and we might be able to get away with cutting through it so I'm thinking that we take one of these and measure a couple times and probably basically end up cutting holes like for drilling holes right at the end of the second one already so that's probably what we're looking at for this mod so what I need to do is what alright ok next step is figuring out where the new ones go you want as little overhang as possible where there are a lot of MOSFETs or where the bottom of the card is that looks pretty good what do you think so that's good that looks promising now we could use zip ties to secure the cooler the GPU and it would probably work here's the concern we have a GPU and we have HBM and the chances of potentially having uneven waiting or positioning on either of those are high enough that it's it's a little bit scary to do that because we don't have temperature sensors for HBM we're not going to have a good idea if those are being cooled and sticking a thermocouple in there isn't going to be the best approach either so I would really like to avoid anything where we're going to potentially have uneven Mountain mounting and that is probably going to be best avoided by mounting proper retention kit to it so that we can actually we can carefully screw in with a nut in a screw on either side the same amount of threads and distribute the weight evenly now the next question is are we going to have these Ashim I think the answer to that is it will figure that when we get there but probably because these are flat plates and the inductors are cut well yet definitely the inductors are taller than the GPU Serene ft is a shim we did that with our 1060 mod actually know what this is making contact will see did that with our 1060 mod and it worked out fine it was still one of the coolest things we ever tested so even if we have to use a shim we're going to gutter off in the base or chamber it's pretty good okay so now we need to drill this I'm thinking I got to figure out we want to take this outside to not get metal shavings everywhere there we go there's some metal shavings okay progress that it's been dented inward I might have to go to a larger bit just because there's going to be some inaccuracy here Steven doing there's one is that Rob over there let me ask him a question so we're trying to mod modify something for a video we're shooting and I need to basically add in some holes right here on this bracket it doesn't need to be pretty but so I got one with a drill but the other ones I started on it's just like barely making a dent so I guess maybe stainless steel or aluminum or something okay any ideas what would be best to cut through that well what you need to do versus the is to give it a little on the side your ground drill alone give it a little punch okay with a little punch so that you get a little bent in there then you could take some thin oil now you have a press okay do you mind if I if we record the part drilling through it oh wait I get answer that does look like it'll make a wages here thanks for the help he'll destroy endless oh yeah raging Lou Oil City is going to clamp it down ah Oh and you probably want to take a file on this side and take off the right guys oh okay so thanks to rob next tour we got this sorted out and use the a drill press combo to get through it so pretty cool utility it's got five different functions it's from the 60s he says we were able to get through the mounting bracket after a whole lot of effort and now we're just going to mount it onto the pump block and all we need for this is the plates and then this little piece here from ASA Tech which just snaps in so that's our attention okay so that's retained now the next step is this has the mount here on top of the silicon I'd be able to keep the base plate that would be cool literally think it'll work is any downside to this I guess is it clearance that's the only question that's left so clearance now might be different than the clearance before 50 no there's your problem this is bigger so instead we'll get rid of the base plate I'm going to cool the vrm components with a lot of air just fans I need to do this exercise one more time to see if course definitely for sure making contact everywhere okay where you are clearly I am I can see through the other side that's unfortunate I can see through to that side too what's stopping us okay no I think it can maybe see through that mmm I don't know what we're hitting a little bit of flex from the PCB well maybe this is actually looking okay now so it just takes extra mounting force HBM is not making contact the the left HBM modules are we going back so do we just put a shim on that make sense get to the point where I'm getting nervous about tightening this further I think that's it I think we are making contact maybe not on the far left and I really hard to gauge what's the help based on me JC or shine it's very little so they sign those for $600 because of this because it's not a standard mounting hole spacing and there are no brackets on the market click the minute someone like ek makes one there's no way the $600 is worth it unless there's something else special by the card that we don't know yet this site is good that's okay not this one oh that's also good so that one lines up with the silicon so we're good there that means that the part I'm seeing the light shine through is actually the substrate and then this one is right here which lines up with the silicon for the HBM sort of get there put I'm concerned about maybe although I may have Oh hmm actually this might be more okay than I thought it was so this small mark lines up with the edge of the silicon we're good there this one I wasn't sure about I was a little sloppy with this because I was having so much trouble getting it to mark it is more inward or inland or whatever but where's the end of it it's bends right there and this HBM stack is inset that way by about the same amount so it's close its close enough to try it I think we're going to be good because anything any light bleeding out over there is probably just cutting through that corner that's not covered so let's give it a shot see how this does will cool the VR rounds with a lot of air and maybe some stick on heat sinks that we open from that Arctic kit earlier after good good measure we'll use extra thermal paste today cool sounds good all right so they all need to be same amount screwed in things on the bottom to get away with that this clear video card slot seven point you want to not quite sweet so it's the same height for all of them they're all the same height and it will fit in a video card slot even though I put the pump the tubes as angle I didn't want to put them out but it's also relevant put a fan above it or the VRM do I want beer I'm heatsinks really don't need them if you just blast the pan it these are exposed copper anyway thermal adhesive not they're all pasted thermal adhesive not mix them up these even the same height that's the real question mmm looks like it there we go 0.59 that sounds more accurate 0.6 okay they're all the same height that's cool I already know the hot spots can be measured um earlier for the review so it's convenient HBM ones at the bottom just ignore that one for now I get Celeste along ok last 2 sets will be cooled with air a lot of it and I put a maglev fan over the stand and you wouldn't even really need these technically so whatever as the longest build up we've ever done I mean even the part 1 and part 2 of the first teardown and hybrid mod we did was shorter than this building part the teardown was trivial so we've got it we've got the coolers mounted it's making contact everywhere now I've checked it multiple times I was basically shining a UV light through there and then marking it with a pencil when I saw it bleed through and when I checked where it marked it's bleeding through in places where there is not a die so it's good so that's making contact first thing I'll do is check TP temps anyway the BRM should be fine there are two pairs of MOSFETs that are not covered by one of these small aluminum heat sinks didn't even need to put those on there technically anyway but the two that aren't covered are going to be just fine they'll be happy because I'm going to put a maglev fan over them blast out at 100% and it will all be good the airflow is better than heat sinking anyways he's thinking without airfoil so I think we're ready to test it I can't move the card because everything's dry but we'll have b-roll shots of it and then check back for the results where we'll have the temperature and thermal difference we'll have the clock stability difference if there is any at that point the only limitation that's left will be the power limit and we have plans to try and deal with that too so check back for all that as always you can subscribe for more especially the results and the follow ups with potentially power limit bypass attempts and storage cameras next have sought net to grab a shirt or you can just go to the website gamers Nexus dotnet patreon.com slash cameras not going to tell us how directly thank you for watching I'll see you all next time you