hey everyone this is Steve from gamers
Nexus tonight and today we're talking
about hard drives specifically Western
Digital naming convention Seagate has
its own name you can mention Hitachi
which is owned by WD has its own naming
convention but today we're just focused
on Western Digital because they use
colors which don't necessarily mean a
whole lot so their colors are for what
we're concerned about green blue and
black now there's also red but red is
meant for raid usage and
network-attached storage
raid so we're going to ignore that for
today and just focus on the consumer
base the desktop drives which would be
green blue black online you'll find a
lot of forums users and other people
generally saying that it's good better
best green being the low end blue
mid-range and black being high performs
so it's not really as easy as just
buying one based on the performance you
want because they might not do exactly
what you want with hard drives there are
a few specs that we care about the most
there's rpm which is the revolutions per
minute that the physical disk the
platter spins at there is cache which
really after 64 megabytes becomes
largely irrelevant for hard drives and
then there's capacity and as a result of
capacity or leading into capacity is
density and both of those are very
important as well so at WD green you get
higher capacities and you get lower rpms
but this means that it's got a lower TDP
lore watt requirement or power
requirement it's been slower but that
means it's quieter so there are
different trade-offs this means that you
don't want to use WD green for things
like a primary drive where your
operating system would reside and you
really don't want to use it for gaming
because it spins up slower it only spins
at 54 to 59 hundred rpm it's got a
variable rpm so it spins up and down
based on the load requirement but that's
not fifty nine hundreds pretty slow you
want generally 7200 rpm if you're not
using an SSD so that means that WD green
makes the most sense for archival
storage for things like movies photos
and music that aren't being accessed
constantly and when they are accessed
they can be slower in delivery because
they're not as high bitrate or high
bitrate requirements and i/o
requirements as things like the
operating system which has a very high
i/o requirement or games which have high
i/o requirements WD greens had a rocky
start in that a lot of them had
because they were having to seek errors
when the RPM changed this has been
mostly resolved in the newer version of
the WD green drives but there's still
really specific use case scenarios you
don't want them for your primary drive
so what do you want for your primary
drive it's either going to be blue or
black if you're looking at Western
Digital and the difference between the
two is actually not as big as some
people might think or lead you to
believe first of all WD blues have a
higher density than the black drives
which means that they're actually faster
in a lot of cases depending on which one
you buy from each brand and WD blue has
a one terabyte per platter density that
means it can store a full terabyte of
data on a single platter that's the
spinning disk whereas the WD black
drives have about 800 gigabytes for
platter density so you'll need more
platters for more storage and that
eventually leads into higher costs so
that's part of why they're more
expensive but it also means that they're
a little bit slower because if you pack
more gigabytes into a single square inch
of space the header has to move less
physically when it's seeking for data so
the density plays a big impact a big
role on how quickly the drive is able to
access your data what this means is that
a lot of the blue drives are actually
slightly faster than black but it's not
necessarily all about raw speed blue and
black both spin at 7200 rpm they both
have about 64 megabytes of cache but
blue only comes in a one terabyte
capacity that is its maximum capacity so
available lower than that one terabyte
is the max and green goes up to 6
terabytes at this point black is
available from one to four terabytes and
blue only goes to one so you generally
once you exit one terabyte of 7200 RPM
storage you're moving into black space
unless you're trying to buy green which
again completely different use case
scenario so for a primary drive you're
really looking at black once you pass
one terabyte in terms of performance the
WD black drives have a beefier chassis
that the drive sits in and that is
indicated partly by the drive weight
they're a couple tenths of a kilogram
difference in weight and the WD black
drives are heavier and have a beefier
chassis because there are more vibration
resistant
so if you have a high-performance
machine with very high rpm fans or if
you've got the drive mounted somewhat
differently than normally for example a
vertical mount like in an HTP C then
you'll want something like a black drive
because it's more vibration resistance
so there's less chance of the header
missing on an access on a file access or
on seeking so it'll have longer lifespan
and a better endurance as a result of
the vibration resistance if that's going
to make an impact for you is somewhat up
for debate
WD blue will really do the job for
almost all gaming systems it's 53 bucks
for a terabyte at 7200 rpm that's about
as good as it gets if you buy black you
can get two terabytes that's something
like 120 130 dollars it's a little more
little heavier endurance and it's about
the same speed realistically you really
won't see a speed difference in real
world use even though you will in
benchmarks with WD blue being a little
bit faster but the only real reason you
buy one or the other is is money and how
how your machine is installed if how
it's configured if it's a very high
performance production rig you're doing
video production and you've got high rpm
fans and things like that
get a black drive because your data will
be safer in terms of endurance WD also
has a five-year warranty on the black
drives but the green and blue only have
two year warranties so ultimately the
way I would price it out is if you're
buying for archival storage get
something like a 2 terabyte green just
for all your media files if you're
buying for a primary drive and you're
building a gaming machine probably buy a
WD blue drive at 53 dollars 1 terabyte
that'll be fine that you started this is
assuming you're not buying a solid-state
drive which is really what you should be
running and if you're buying something
for a production rig and you want more
than one terabyte at 7200 rpm get black
it's it's really that simple there's no
magic behind the architecture in each of
these drives it's just our PMS and
capacity and density that's all it boils
down to so if you have any questions
about this at all please tweet at us at
gamers Nexus post a comment below I'll
try to answer it but really tweeting at
us is the best way to get in touch at
this point and subscribe to this video
if you like
I will see you all next time peace
you
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