so we got an these rx 590 and about 24
hours before embargo lifts and we're not
not gonna pull another all-nighter twice
in one week to review the card so what
we're going to do today is a teardown
got to put some thermocouples on it on
you for the review and the card we're
working with for this teardown is the
XFX
rx 590 Fatboy which honestly isn't even
all that fat so marketing making up for
substance I guess or they've named it
after the nuke but either way we're
gonna take it apart and see what they
new rx 590 looks like underneath on the
XFX Fatboy card before that this video
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description below very basics first the
RX 590 we're gonna review it shortly but
the card the GPU the RX 590 is an RX 580
which is in our it's 480 it's just been
pre overclocked on the RX 580 which was
a pre overclocked RX 4 80
so it is a pre pre overclocked RX 4 80
the voltage required for given frequency
is a bit lower on the 590 so that
absolutely has some value and the price
proposition may play out differently
we'll see how it works in the review but
again we need to start with taking it
apart because I need to put
thermocouples on this so we're gonna
work with this XFX card primarily it is
honestly despite its name not all that
fat so this is a little more than two
slots it's about 50 millimeters the EVGA
card only has maybe 4 millimeters on the
XFX card but the EVGA card has a
significantly fatter heatsink so XFX is
an entire fatness on the fat boy
is consumed by the distance between the
backplate and the PCB which doesn't
count and the distance between the
shroud and the cooler which doesn't
count
so the actual cooler substance is
significantly less
than something like this that said
there's a 20 atti it produces a lot more
heat and it's $1,200 so it's not really
a fair comparison the point though is to
say that the name Fat Boy is it's just
it's just kind of dumb okay so so we got
that over with let's move on to taking
the card apart okay so we're gonna start
this teardown we're using just an iFixit
bit kit and they're not not a current
advertiser but we like to plug the kit
that we use it's a pro tech toolkit if
you want to pick it up and we're just
gonna start by taking out the screws for
the heatsink itself and see if removing
the heatsink as possible with only
removing three screws first problem I
have that sticker says avoid if removed
that is not enforceable in the United
States you can't do that here so XFX
there's what I think your warranty
seriously this is this is bad and this
is not this is a problem void if removed
stickers on screws are a way to try and
intimidate end-users out of repairing
and maintaining their own devices which
we are strongly opposed to that kind of
action but they probably wouldn't
enforce it anyway and a good luck tine
if most people took it apart to begin
with you just say I don't know anything
about computers so this didn't
immediately fall apart sometimes it's
only four screws holding the heat sink
in so we're gonna take the rest of them
out this time there it is they're hiding
okay so two more screws that are hiding
here so we take out that one and then
that one and now the XFX rx 590 Fatboy
should have its back plate boy or Shroud
boy removable and the back plate is not
here you go that's so the back plate you
look down the middle here there's the
screw going through for that and for
that and those screws are on the top
side so we gotta take those out if we
want to remove the back plate but
typically something else should come off
first
there is cable
okay so warning warning number one on
this card it would be really easy to rip
this entire connector off this board the
way they've mounted this so if you pull
on the cable the the connector the
housing on the board side will start
separating from the pins that it's on
and it'll pull up with the cable if you
aren't careful so if there's a 7-way in
this card probably just leave it
connected if you're just redoing the
paste but otherwise be really careful
with it I'm gonna take some time to get
it off properly otherwise it will rip
things out of the board
that's so tempted to just leave it along
I see that pin there's a secret pen
there's like a little plastic button in
there under the housing that's hooking
into the bottom of the housing I don't
know if it's a manufacturing defect or
if it's an intentional way to try and
block people from removing the fan but
I'm just grinding it off with a
screwdriver until there's no more
plastic bump there the right side is
already free the left side it's a little
more work there it goes sorry okay I
have not had that problem before I've
taken apart dozens of video cards over
the last few months actually that's not
true I've taken apart dozens of video
cards in the last 48 hours and and this
one so it's I mean it's pretty standard
fan header this is not unique but it
just had like a little plastic bump that
was stuck and it's supposed to be a hook
to prevent it from coming out of the
housing there's still I left part of one
on there this one down here you probably
can't really see it but one of them had
like bonded with the plastic housing so
I don't know if that's manufacturing
defect or what was going on but I just
kind of chiseled the head until it was
unstuck and I could separate them so all
right well look at the cooler in a
second this is the card and for the PCB
I mean I'll remind you it's an rx 580
which is a 480 so this isn't really
anything tremendous and new that you
haven't seen before but there is still
new silicon and that's because it's a
new process new fabrication process for
this piece so nothing on the die Andy
typically doesn't put text with die on
like Nvidia you can still see I ain't
got there tangent plate everything about
it's pretty much the same
the the dye sighs I guess we'll go ahead
and measure that the best of our
abilities so external dye package which
is not the exact same as dye size
roughly 17.5 by roughly 14 and that's an
external measurement but you get the
idea
so there's dye size memory same as
before so this memory is micron it has 2
4 6 8 gigabytes of it as you would
expect on an RX 5 80 or 90 in this case
they are not going to be making a 4
gigabyte version to my knowledge so this
should be the only version there is and
then we also need to take apart the take
the back plate off so let's get that off
of there that's gonna be done by
removing the screws on now the front
side with PCB is you can also see a
multi BIOS which we'll go over that in a
second
and I'm gonna track the screws on the
mod mat over here so stored I guarantee
excess net if you want to pick up a mod
mat like the work service that I am on
right now and the next round will come
in we'll be shipping out in the first
half of December so if you're in the
u.s. you definitely have a chance to get
anyone before the holidays if you order
soon and then will be sold out again
probably shortly after that so not too
many screws here we've got for the back
plate one two three four five and then
one here one here for the i/o so it puts
us up to seven screws underneath the
cooler and then we have one two three
four or five six screws for the back
side of the card that we're already
removed so really not that many which is
good you want to do more with less with
screws and those were not necessary
moves for me the back plate but we're
gonna get rid of the rid of the i/o
potentially in a minute
so okay back plate it's a back plate
it's made out of metal it's aluminum
back plate and connects actually does
not connect to the card anywhere so it
is utterly pointless
this is not a functional object it's got
some like just a protective coating
there so there's no direct contact
shorts between the board components and
the backplate but no thermal pads
connected anything so that is
non-functional
it does not do anything in fact it may
trap some radiative heat that radiates
off the backside now it doesn't matter
now or not really but it's there is no
reason this can't be functional other
than they didn't want to spend a couple
of pennies literally pennies on a
thermal pad between like the inductor
line on the backplate that would pull
some heat off of the card again not
going to affect the core temperatures
but also if you're going to go through
the effort of making a big metal
backplate at least go through the effort
of binds and when I was as thrown pad
and sticking it on there so that's the
back plate the front side for the vrm it
is using some familiar design let's see
one looks like a six plus one will
confirm with build Zoid and then it's an
ir so international rectifier three five
two one seven which is actually a really
common controller and you can see that
piece right there so that's the IR
thirty five to 17 this is on really most
motherboards right now and on lots of
video cards as well so that is a common
component we've spoken about it a lot
the MOSFETs are also IR and those are
thirty five seventy eight and I just
double-check yes thirty five seventy
eight is that component and those are
used for all for the both the memory and
the core vrm as for the rest of the
board there's a v bios switch up here so
that's probably your typical performance
mode and quiet mode that will check
marketing language on that and then just
as a reference for everybody it is in
the front position default so that is
how we will test it but we'll double
check what the two switches are okay so
that's the PCB here's the cooler for the
cooler it you've got throne
for contacting the memory we're gonna
put a thermocouple on one of those
memory modules probably the hottest one
which would most likely be this one so
we typically try to put thermocouples on
the hottest modules this is likely to be
the hottest because regardless of where
the fans are positioned it is next to
two of the hottest parts so you've got
the mosfet and the inductors right there
there's a line of capacitors between
them but it's still gonna be dealing
with a lot of radiative heat and then
yes remember these are all like the same
power planes it's on the same PCB PCB is
made of copper and fiberglass so
naturally you're gonna conduct heat from
everywhere on the board especially if
things are adjacent so we will probably
test that module first the cooler so the
red red line of throne pads is going on
the MOSFETs which is apparent from the
indentation in them the gap here is over
the inductors so there's no direct
contact between the inductors or the
capacitors but that's fine they they
they're hot but if you hit it with
airflow which will happen then that is
sufficient so we're actually we have no
problems with leaving inductors without
a thermal pad as long as there's air
flow and there is this fan is right over
them it's gonna go through fins there
straight fins they're not l-shaped fins
so that air will go straight through hit
the inductors and they'll be just fine
they don't need direct contact the
memory module were likely testing has
that won't that pad the other straight
module on the bottom of the cards got
that one and now that you're oriented
with this at the bottom of the card you
can see the heat pipe orientation and
that's got a copper cold plate to the
bottom that is soldered to the heat
pipes and then the heat pipes do not
appear to be soldered together between
them note there is some solder in there
so some solder in between the heat pipes
solder to hold the cold plate to the
heat pipes and then there's a nickel
plated plate and this is kind of or
aluminum it might be aluminum not one
high percent sure actually wow that's a
mounting plate I don't know what that is
not clear on the material for this this
shiny material not clear on that let's
just rule out that it's steel though no
okay it's not aluminum so that that is
not aluminum aluminum is not magnetic as
you can see here because that's that's
an aluminum set of sheets
that's a aluminum heatsink and then
aluminum here copper here so that looks
to be a stainless steel which is
actually a terrible conductor of heat
depending what kind of stainless steel
are using it's like 70 watts per meter
Kelvin whereas if you're talking
aluminum you're at 205 watts per meter
Kelvin at 25 C copper is if it's good
copper is like 405 watts per meter
Kelvin at 25 C depends on the grade of
material of course there is bad copper
there's bad aluminum and there's good
stainless steel or good steel but this
is typically not a great service also a
shiny surface is bad at dealing with
heat you have reflective heat that you
also have concerns with the pan
what kind of components are being cooled
so not a great solution for the memory
will test it and we'll see how it does
in testing but it's kind of odd this
thing is screwed in let's actually let's
just take that out and just see what
happens like why is this screwed in
probably just to secure it because it's
not manufactured as part of the aluminum
plate under it then the question is why
didn't they manufacture the aluminum
plate under it to meet the memory
modules instead of requiring an
additional plate to sit in between them
okay Wow interesting that's so weird
so they have two perfectly good
materials here for conducting heat why
what is copper heat pipes you can't get
much better than other than being not
direct touch contact not direct contact
copper is the suboptimal but it's still
good especially with like they're all
pasted in between the gaps or a thermal
pad would be potentially okay with
enough mounting pressure then you have
aluminum that's kind of messy aluminum
but it's aluminum nonetheless
clearly and the only reason really not
to just do a oh let's see no that's not
a reason okay so why is why does this
exist spacing mounting pressure
something along those lines it might be
a mounting pressure thing maybe they're
trying to avoid crushing the die of the
memory or of the GPU if if there's not
this dense material in between the the
plate and the silicon I don't know I
don't know if it's a mounting pressure
concern or if it's a contact distance
concern because mine clay inclination
here is if I take this thing off
assuming it doesn't like crack the die
or something when I remount the cooler
and I shouldn't suspect it would
although the screws would have to be
tight in a different mount but if I take
this thing off my inclination is that
putting a sufficiently thick thrown pad
here that would account for the loss of
this steel plates were probably steel
anyway and also add the same surface
area or the same thickness as that pad I
would think that this direct contact of
the memory would be superior but part of
the memory modules would be over this
gap right here so you've got that gap in
there there wouldn't be any contact
there there wouldn't be any contact
there so that's a bit worse in that
regard but really this whole thing
should just be widened and flattened why
it was built this way not sure what the
design decisions were but this is a
inefficient use of metal because they've
got two perfectly good conductors here
it's just not complete so you can't
directly contact in a way that would
make sense and perhaps that's why they
went with the plate now it doesn't
matter well no the memory is probably
still going to be in spec so in that
regard it'll work it's just that
whenever you see sort of waste by way of
poor design or
poorly thought-out design like this
cooler solution it's I mean it's really
you want the best product you can get
for your money and this is a poor design
choice but one that we can test and we
will test to see if our approach will be
better I mean even if they don't pad
here might be better even though you've
got less surface area we've seen it in
the past where it's sometimes a pigeon
or even decent so that's the bottom end
of the cooler and then the top they've
got a bit of the Gigabyte design
approach which it's not a it's not great
thing so a screws here on a bar holding
aluminum bar I believe yes likely
aluminum bar that doesn't do anything
it's not a not a heat sink it just holds
everything into the shroud that's on
both sides they've got four screws for
that so we don't need to take these four
screws out there's really no point but
you get heat pipes running through over
the area on the right half the board and
that's really just so that they can run
through where the fans are pushing there
it's not to connect with anything on the
board because there's nothing hot on the
board in that area so we're not going to
take the shroud off because there's no
point it's just more more view more
visibility to the cooler and that's
really it I mean that's the RX 590 by
XFX the Fatboy and backplate doesn't
have any functional purpose they might
say it's structural it's not doesn't do
anything for thermals in a positive
fashion probably not anything really
exceptionally negative either this is a
weird and efficient approach to design
and the cooler otherwise seems pretty
standard so there's your rx 590 slightly
different different configuration and
that it's lower voltage for given clock
it's higher clocks and natively out of
the box this is a partner only launched
there will not be rx5 90s from AMD so
there's no reference cards for this one
there you have it them the RX 590 Fatboy
maybe they'll make a slim addition later
and the 590 here is really what we need
to look at not actually just
cooller so the 590 we'll be testing
shortly like I said had a disassembly
cat the probes on it for thermal testing
and there's clearly a lot of things we
can do in addition to normal thermal
test here so might play around with that
not sure if it'll go on the initial
review or later but we'll be working on
benchmarking the 590 shortly it is an
these refreshed R X 480 and the rear e
refresh no yes this is the rear e fresh
the previous one with the Refresh I
think that's accurate the RX 580
actually did pretty decently it's held
on pretty well - and value proposition
so the five - idea has a place in the
market we'll see how it does though just
to be clear so very critical of the
cooler design here it doesn't mean the
cards bad doesn't mean the coolers bad
it just means they could have made it
better but we'll be testing it to
validate those statements and by the
time you see this video likely a lot of
those tests will have been done so check
back shortly make sure you subscribed if
you're not so you can catch the rx 590
review and go to stored on campus access
net to pick up a mod mat like the one I
was working on here and you can also go
to patreon.com/scishow cameras Nexus to
help there - thank you for watching I'll
see you all next time
you see me
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