Gadgetory

alright what's up guys the SU sensor you guys said you wanted more car content and I'm gonna bring you some car stuff as you can see we've got a really beautiful one in the background we'll talk about that in a sec it has been more than a year since I showed you guys my zeal 1:1 le and that was when it was still a hundred percent bone-stock washy no I take that back it had a roto fab intake but that's still pretty much stuck and I did some track stuff with it but since then and I always said I was gonna make a video about the car because of all the mods of stuff we did to it I just never did so it's been almost a year and a half since I've had this car we're gonna talk about it because today we're over here at red barn racing we've got my friends behind us here in his beautiful 68 Camaro drag car we are just getting a checkup because it's been about 10,000 miles since we will I say we since he ripped the engine apart did some mods the cam all that sort of stuff we're gonna do some checks some valve nut ballast springs but rocker bolts and all that crap heap up not pretend like I know what I'm talking about here to make sure all that stuff's within spec and then we'll talk about the mods and and what this car does and why I did what I did so yeah let's get to it you know what guys I got new merch it's available now karma calm /jc sense we got zip up hoodies we got tri-blend we got a new logo I digress since 2012 but the rest logo you guys been asking for that anyway well guys we all kinds of stuff zip up hoodies beanies polos don't take my word for it cuz obviously I can't do this edie so just look in the description below and you guys will find the link Thanks alright so this is my 20 1801 1ld if you're not familiar with what all that means zl1 is just the trim package between it's got the LT 4 supercharged 6.2 liter v8 the 1ld is a suspension slash track package that has to do with the DSS be dynamic spool valve dampers for multimatic it's got the additional arrow in the front it's got the arrow and the back office lis it's got wire wheels fluid wire fender on the front not so much as the fenders the mounts for it are so it gives us an extra inch of clearance on either side I'm obviously running a different wheel in factory these are HRE RC 104 s which is a lightweight forged racing wheel so I'm running those obviously four tires these are these are getting kind of cycled out but these are Toyo are Triple A DARS my factory wheels actually have a set of Michelin Pilot Sport cup 2 s which I'm not a fan of to be honest at least on the street yeah and for those of you that are kind of wondering - yes it is a manual as you can see right there because when I bought this car it was not available in automatic nor would I have gotten one anyway because I want the distro driving experience - a manual with his car but as of today you can get a 1 le with a manual which I are at automatic which I kind of feel isn't atrocity I think Mike might agree with that sentiment that an automatic one Elite is just kind of weird Road race car so anyway when it comes to this car you can see I've still got the factory blower it's not ported it's got the factory sized throttle body but port it throttle body for airflow not for volume or opening up that Inlet or the Firefly on there we do have American Racing one in 70s long tube headers which are not ceramic coated we're probably gonna do that next it just kind of sucks them in and do it at the time of the build because then you have to take them out obviously roto fab cold air intake gates belt a catch can here this is a custom catch can that was made by a company that Cunningham Motorsports had making these for them cooling mods we are running a CNR racing radiator was just quite a bit more volume than factory but we're also running a pro type of pro speed right yeah pro speed intercooler for the supercharger which is about twice the volume of the factory but further testing is shown that that was just sort of an insurance move in terms of temps are not really any better than the factory one this just helps us with heat soak for long track sessions and stuff like that in terms of the engine we are running a custom ground cam I don't know the specs on it they were just specs that match the package that was put in here does have additional fuel load though because are running a DSX fuel system with a flex fuel sensor in here and we do have 85 and we are running 10% ATI lower pulley to overdrive the supercharger and the Kim had a bunch of supporting mods ahead to go along with it so we've got hardened push rods titanium valve springs anything else that goes along the belt ring it's actually a Polish valve spring of the titanium retainer okay so Paul files being two teen retainers that gives it that just smooth is a slide smoother right that's just compressing yeah the hard part and push rods oh right right because as you're increasing the the lift and duration on the on the cam and it's got extra forces on it you don't want those kind of binding or bending obviously and then we have the phase lock out before the cam because the whole cam would phase shift as sort of a variable valve but not really the whole cam just sort of move right yes so we've locked that out so that's no light that's why idle so damn loud because it's the same valve and duration at all rpms right right okay so that's why the stock car was much quieter at idle because that valve the cam was shifting to are phasing - I guess lower the duration when it didn't need it open up the throttle the camera move right yes okay and then it is all tuned using HP tuners Oh for the catback it is American Racing we do have American Racing catalytic converters in here for the street you can see them right there because I'm not a fan of the 1971 dump truck smell when I am running gasoline which I rarely run in this car but also to to keep the noise down to smooth it out a little bit but what I do Road race it I do that test nights that go in there to remove those cats you can't check between each one yeah I just kind of take a random sample look for anything some of the Sun metal shaving will always be normal but what I'm looking for is really chunks chunks is a bad thing right especially if you get anything brass color cuz usually brass colors normally camshaft stuff or non camshaft but barring yeah that's pretty good cleaner help billow up there cool so I know one of the common question this video is gonna be is Jay how much power you make in the funny thing is I don't truly know the answer to that question because when Mike dyno the car last year we had a couple of issues that were happening at the time that we made the run so Cunningham Motorsports at the time no longer in business technically as a build shop anymore they're tuning service now they have a Mustang dyno which is a kind of middle ground in terms of being heartbreaker I think dynapac is the lowest Dyna jet is the gym most generous in terms of numbers must thing kind of fits somewhere in the middle but all dinos can be tuned or calibrated to to look great or look terrible it doesn't it doesn't what doesn't what matters is the baseline versus the after the build so I did have Mike do a baseline on this and on the Mustang dyno at baseline 529 wheel horsepower stock for 650 horsepower car factory at the crank it worked out to about 15% drivetrain loss so what we what do we died no six ninety nine or seven in the dot after yeah I think it was six ninety nine yeah but the thing was it was a hundred and eight degree day it was a hundred over a hundred degrees ambient temp in the shop when he did it and we had a clogged supercharger brick where the IITs were just going through the roof during the dyno pull and on these cars just like most cars as the intake temp goes up timing gets pulled because of predetonation so we're pretty positive that with all of that fixed and the cooling mods I've made now and how low my IAT stay I'm probably making a good solid 20 ish more wheel horsepower than that day possibly upward into the 30s because I think the IAT said something like 180 at the end of that pool but we do know we picked up 170 wheel horsepower versus the baseline with the intake overheating so yeah your guess is as good as mine is how much it's really making but if we take that 15% drivetrain loss into effect with 170 wheel horsepower so you take 170 and add 0.15 to that we're alike 845 crank which I'll take that's fun by the way to put it it's fun but it's starting to feel slow and that's the problem so I wanted to run a colder thermostat so I'm running a 160 in here I know some people can be like why are you running a 160 what's the point in that well the oil in this car is cooled by the coolant so the coolant has some diversion diverter lines that go to the actual oil pen on the side of the oil pan as a cooler core that the oil is pumped through and so instead of bringing the oil out of the pan through a radiator like a lot of cars do and then back to the pan it just brings the coolant to the pan well that's extra heat being dumped into the cooling system so that's why we have to bake see in our radiator that's why we're also running this ls3 style thermostat housing which bolts right up to the water pump right here and so we can run ls3 style thermostats which have a huge selection versus the lt4 style where the thermostat is part of the housing and it's a plastic out of it so it's just another one of those things where I took points of failure that I've experienced in the past especially where they're plastic and upgraded them to try and deal with any potential failures in the future especially for road racing so when you're visually inspecting right now what is it you're looking for it really a lot of it is just for anything that is out of place like looking at the end caps here for the rocker arms to make sure that you don't have one of the trunnions coming apart well with a exalt if we're and stuff like that we're gonna pull somebody's off and take a peek at and then we also gonna look at the foul springs to make sure that there's no cracking breaking any kind of unusual signs of metal shavings or anything like that coming from them so you look at where the rocker end hits the spring and stuff mm-hmm let's hang it there it's just shiny and really what you're looking out doing right now geing uh excessive heat anything like that it'll it'll physically turn the tips blue oh so like a non-exhaustive titanium yep are these titanium or aluminum no these are actually steel oh yeah these are actually steel so is it just the valves under titanium in O'Neill t4s yeah it's just the intake valve and then this is actually a lash cap here and so and that protects the titanium tip nicely you don't put those back on it's very bad well it also accounts for the thickness of that too right in terms of all the measurements yeah well the titanium is a very strong material but it doesn't take contact very well right so whenever it takes contact like that it basically just goes right through it so one of the reasons why I have Mike doing this checkup is because one like I said it's been over a year since we modified this car actually just barely over a year I was at Computex last year in Taiwan when they had the car so I was like well the best way to distract myself from the work they're doing on the car and being impatient and wanting it back is just go overseas so they had the car while I was out of the country and one of the things I noticed with the long tube headers and then with the new cam and all that stuff was that valvetrain noise is really loud versus what it was factory so a I don't know if it's placebo or what but because I haven't been driving the car nearly as much the last six months as I did the first six months driving it around my brain goes this sounds louder to me like it got louder or something and I remember Mike telling me when I asked him what's a sign that we're dealing with excess cam where he said you'll start hearing louder lifter noise and valve train noise so I just went well it's time to do the checkup might as well at least have him give it a clean bill of health and do this inspections because this car is an investment I don't really want to talk pricing I mean you can look at how much this car is by itself then you can kind of figure how much was spent and mods alone that's a big investment and I want it to to last me more than a year we'll talk about the 68 over here for a sec this is a fully custom-built ls7 and it's anything it's its na 99.1 35 and the quarter naturally aspirated but the crazy thing about this car there's a lot more steel on this car than a modern car which makes people automatically think old muscle cars like this are just big heavy boats 3,100 pounds with him in it and fuel that's race weight and so what the way he has this thing geared the way he has it dialed the transmission set up most of that quarter mile time is what 60 foot and the eight mile is just you're flying right if you go and watch videos of his you guys can go you can find him on Instagram under red barn racing and you'll find videos of this at the track and it pulls the wheels up it pulls the wheels up as an NA car yeah it's full drag set up drag suspension obviously it's got it's considered a it's a full slip right but it's considered a street tire a small drag tires I was a drag radial yeah so it's not even a full drag flick and he's pulling the wheels up it's got a skinnies up front the hood is something that's been talked about a bit whether or not you're gonna paint it or leave it with that old school when alley black kind of a deal you know with the speed and the quarter-mile times he puts down with this you got to show it off with a big cowl you know what they say about guys with big Cal's they've got fast cars the interior on this is pretty sick B&M shifter even smells nice in here doesn't smell like a junkyard car like some cars even though they're like nice like this they still smell like an old car you know I mean this has that this has that classic Chevy smell but I assume a lot of this is probably the cleaners and stuff you use on the seats all the leather conditioners and stuff now speaking of valve springs and size this is looks easily like double the size of mine that's because that's a 632 cubic inch Chevy big-block I mean compare it to his snap-on toolbox and for scale yeah that's kind of looks like a Magnuson supercharger sitting on top of that yeah this right here well I would twist the tit throw out the ball yeah so so for the size comparison that's the 632 right there that's an LS the engine everyone's always like I'll put it out last night but I know less well there's an LS which literally looks like a supercharger that would our root style that would go on top of this guy like if you just look at the size comparison there okay so clean bill the health of the car Mike's gone through it check things like the oil cope and the oil filter check the catch can no oil in the catch can at all no no so it means no blow by and I I don't drive the car easy I don't drive the car as hard as other people do so here's the thing when it comes to modified engines of modified cars I think this mantra holds true with regardless of what platform when you start adding power there's things you have to take into account with extra preventive maintenance and regular scheduled maintenance so what would you say is the most important thing with a modified engine that you need to stay on top of oil changes and probably more frequently than the 3,000 miles people recommended three months 3,000 miles change your oil it's it's way cheaper than having to redo it no synthetics will tell you now you can go 7,500 to 10k but that's not a good idea with a modified engine exactly that does first that's for factory stock clearances and things of that nature and the most factory oil temps exactly yeah exactly and then where you really push on these things like that little changes are cheap oh yeah yeah if you think about the investment into the engine you know what's a hundred dollars worth of oil you know exactly you know you probably got probably about underneath your head right now that you didn't that suggest would be out of pocket just replace them out or not including Labor's and things like oh yeah I think the BLT for long block I think was fourteen thousand 999 if I replaced the engine and heads exactly so trying to think I mean we we kind of went over the top with cooling and we did cooling after the engine build so I probably with all the cooling mods and stuff I know I said earlier I was gonna talk to fries but I've got close to eighteen to twenty thousand dollars under the hood of this car in terms of labor and everything too if I I I always talk about DIY do-it-yourself I'm not an expert and there are some very particular tolerances and tuning and setup that has to be done and I could go in there and very easily know I can do a cam swap and just destroy the engine without doing something right yeah so that's why I pay an expert like Mike to do all that for me but we ended up going with all the additional cooling in this I've got like $5,000 worth of cooling upgrades in this alone between the radiator which was 1,100 bucks the CNR a radiator we've got the pro speed heat exchanger we got the pro speed fender tank the thermostat like the thermostat housing was like four hundred dollars by itself that thing's insane fortunately we got that for a lil bit cheaper but so we got a lot of money in here in cooling because with higher output of horsepower higher heat output higher oil temps higher coolant temps so I basically every engine I've ever lost in the past in terms of blowing up has been temperature related so I told Mike I said I'm going overboard on the cooling on this because you there's no such thing as over cooling the engine short have taken out the thermostat and letting it go open-loop right right but there's no such thing as too much cooling in terms of headroom but there's certainly not enough and I don't want to take a chance with that so anyway I just want to take you guys kind of along for the ride like I said if you want to follow some crazy car stuff he puts a lot of the builds that he works on on Instagram so it's at red barn racing I will put it down in the description below you guys can click on that I've showed pictures of this on my Instagram as well I Drive an hour and a half each way every time he works on this car because when I become comfortable with someone touching my stuff you make the drive to make sure that you don't have some knucklehead coming in here thing I can do this and then he blows it up so we will probably later this year be adding a little bit more power but intelligently and it's probably just gonna be through blower porting and and stuff like that because I think dropping another five or six thousand dollars on a Whipple for my use case would be kind of wasted money yeah so alright guys we're gonna go if you want to see more this kind of content then make sure you hit us up so that we know you guys want to see it and then go and check out the Instagram as I mentioned down below alright guys thanks we'll see you the next one