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The $800 Watercooling Loop Guide: How to Blow your Budget!

2013-10-17
what's up guys you're watching Jays two cents and you've been asking me all year long to do a new how to completely water cool a computer guide this is going to be a complete tutorial on everything you need to know to water cool your computer and we're going to do it together so let's get started okay guys when it comes to water cooling of your computer you are going to need some basic parts you're going to need fluid today we're using distilled water you're going to need a radiator you're going to need a reservoir to hold your fluid you're going to need fans to cool your radiator you're going to need tubing to carry your fluid to your different components you're going to need a water cooling block for your CPU and optionally you can include your graphics card in your loop today we're going to be doing that you're going to need fittings to connect your components together to a tubing this is a basic barb fitting right here and we do also have some premium compression and 45 degree angle fittings which we're going to be using in this build and you're also going to need a water cooling pump you don't see the pump on the table because we're reusing a pump that's currently in the build for this build but you're going to need a water cooling pump to move all of your fluid and lastly there's a couple of tools that you're going to need you're going to need that basic screwdriver that multi-tool bit that I use optionally you can just use a big and a small screwdriver and you're going to need something to cut the tubing I use an actual tubing cutter for this you don't have to get this tool if you don't want to because you probably aren't going to be doing this very often because I do water cooling builds all the time it's just a lot easier you could use a big pair of scissors or you could use a really sharp razor blade I prefer the cutter because it makes a clean straight cut and it makes it just a lot cleaner in the end fluid is one of the things that I'm asked most commonly about when it comes to water cooling some people tell me that they've heard distilled waters bad they've heard distilled water is the best they don't know whether or not they should go with a nano fluid should they put coloring in their fluid here's the bottom line when it comes to fluid number one distilled water is the purest fluid that you can put inside of your loop and it's going to have the best reaction to your metals now you may be using different kinds of metals in your gloop you may have nickel copper hopefully there's not aluminum most water coolers don't really approve of aluminum but distilled water is the purest product that you can put in there and it's not going to have any abnormal effects with your water cooling loop now for added safety you can put a kill coil in there or it's just a it's a little piece of silver that you can roll up and stick inside your reservoir or something I've ever used one in the ten years I've been water cooling and I've never had any sort of a corrosion issue the bottom line is if you keep your fluid clean you're not going to have to worry about corrosion issues now when it comes to distilled water though you may have to use this product in fact you need to use this product here this particular product is a Anti algae it's a this is PT nuke just two or three drops per gallon or per liter of this is all you need to keep their from being any sort of growth inside of your loop the last thing you want is having a nice colony of algae growing inside of your computer now the other question I'm asked most commonly about fluid is about non conductive fluids and whether or not they're worth the thirty to forty dollar per liter price tag that they tend to carry here's my answer on that non conductive fluids are good if you're a new builder and you're concerned about leaks however the reality of non-conductive fluid is over time if you let them run in your system for a couple of years they pick up ions from the metals that they touch and they become conductive over time so if you were to have a leak two or three years in the future because you didn't maintain your system and you didn't do any sort of flushing chances are you would still end up doing damage on your components because they became conductive because they're touching metal all day long and those metals do break down slightly microscopically over time and they get moved around inside the fluid and that's what makes them conductive so personally I would say just use distilled water and Pt Nuuk you can use a nano fluid like I am I'm using mayhem sunset yellow fluid in my computer has nothing to do with being anti corrosion or being non conductive it just looked really cool that's the third thing I want to talk about when it comes to fluid is whether or not color or dye is bad now the yellow and my fluid is dye but what's actually dyed in the fluid is the nanoparticles themselves not the fluid if you were to let that sit over time they would actually separate and you would see a separation of color when it comes to the Nano fluid now the last thing I want to talk about with fluid people commonly asked me is whether or not it's okay to have died inside of your fluid first things first I've seen people say I just put food coloring inside of your water cooling fluid and then it will work fine you don't want to do that food coloring is almost pure sugar and pure sugar over time will turn to a gel it will gunk up inside of your blood bad news trust me do not put do not put food coloring in your loop under any circumstance not to mention it is it consider it is a product for consumption which means bacteria also want to eat it and it just it's very bad it actually promotes growth inside of your loop when it comes to organisms don't do it now when it comes to fluids that already have dye added to them they are the correct formula of dye to not cause that problem unfortunately though a lot of dyes will gunk up again just like the food coloring inside of the tiny passages in the water blocks over time which could start to reduce water flow and sometimes it can build up in your pump and cause damage to your pump generally it's not a good idea but the worst dye color for this period is red for some reason red just likes to gunk up the most not to mention it stains everything and that's the last thing I want to mention when it comes to do dyeing fluid is you do end up dying your parts over time acrylic over time will absorb some of that and even if it looks like it's clean if you add clear fluid back to it after using say a red fluid it's going to have a pinkish tint to that you guys have been following me on Twitter you know back a couple of months ago I was going through hell trying to clean the red dye out of my old system it was so bad I ended up replacing the entire system so just stay away from dyes if you are at all concerned about there being any sort of literally add I now when it comes to fittings people ask me all the time well what kind of fittings do I need you only need a barb fitting this is the bare minimum as a barb fitting on some sort of a clamp you can use an automotive hose clamp what you screw down or you can go as ghetto as zip ties I've used it ties in fact the computer we're getting ready to replace all the water cooling in for this build is being held together with zip ties it's been together for a year and a half no problems whatsoever usually a barb is more than enough retention for a hose the zip ties aren't for sealing or the clamps aren't for sealing the clamps are for holding it on there just in case for some reason it wanted to pop off if you're having the clamp something down to keep it from leaking you do not have parts that fit together properly that's the bottom line now with Barb's being the bare minimum you could go a little bit more premium by using different types of compression fittings and bends like this but keep in mind and you could even come up with some sort of a funky I mean look at this says I don't even know what this is I just put a bunch of bends together it swivels and this is what I got if you take a look at my 900 D build in order to get the two radiators at the bottom plumbed together properly and to get my my pump routed down there I've had to use quite a bit of these to get a really weird contraption going and they can make it very easy to put together tight components rather than bending the tube because tubing only bends so far before it kinks you don't want that keep in mind though fittings is one of the fastest ways to send your budget for your water cooling build all the way to the sky because fittings can easily add up to as much as the rest of the components in your build you can have a barb that costs four dollars or you can have a bend an eye a 45 degree swivel Bend with a compression fitting that cost $14 a piece so keep that in mind when buying your fittings now when putting together your water cooling loop clearly you have to have a way to get the fluid to all of your components I've got here some just a couple of pieces of different tubing that I've used over the past and one thing I want to point out is that not all tubing is created equal both of these tubes here are bar are from primal chill they are the same exact manufacturer they're advertises the exact same specs the exact same line of primal chill product same size same everything but I would like to demonstrate to you first is that they're not always the same size well here's what I mean by that I have here a piece of half inch inner diameter 3/4 inch outer diameter tubing for water cooling loops this is one of the biggest tubing that you can get by the way there's different sizes people are going to ask me do I need 1/2 inch 20 3/8 doesn't matter anywhere from quarter inch all the way up to 1/2 inch is going to perform pretty much the same the only thing that's going to change is the flow rate of your your components doesn't matter you can go with 3/8 to have a cleaner tighter Bend loop got half-inch like I have that way you can say yeah I've got huge tubing inside of my computer it's awesome you mad bro so getting back to what I was talking about being not equal this right here is a three inch three-quarter inch outer diameter half inch inner diameter compression fitting with a little Bend fitting on there this slides over it exactly as intended so that when you put your tube inside your fitting you can then tighten down your compression fitting and everything fits just fine and though I don't recommend using tools by the way to tighten this down you just want to go hand tight because it is squeezing on there and as you can see now it took that much force to pull this out okay that is a good fitting if it wasn't tightened all the way down like people think they have to tighten it all the way down or it's going to come out no like you go until it can't turn anymore doesn't have to be all the way down same exact line of product same exact size advertised half inch inner diameter three inch or three quarter inch outer diameter but I want you to notice the fitting it doesn't fit why it does not fit literally does not fit over this tube so this tubing if you would purchase this tubing trying to put together your loop you have been awfully disappointed that it doesn't fit I don't know if this was just a defective piece of tube from primal chill but it's a lot bigger than advertised so in order to use this tubing you would have to go with a barb and then use a clamp on it there's nothing wrong with that it's just there is variances in size I just want to make you guys aware of that unfortunately may be thinking to yourself now well how do you know if it's going to fit before you buy it read the reviews honestly you will find a lot of reviews on this and you will you will see if a tubing is not at the size it's advertised as and people are going to complain like I did so keep that in mind with tubing as I mentioned you can go with any size tubing you want just make sure that if you go compression fittings you get the size that matches your tubing and vice versa make sure you get the tubing that matches your compression fitting people generally when they're new to water cooling are a little bit confused about how much radiator space they really need they don't know if they should go with a 120 millimeter a 240 a 360 or 480 like in my case I have a 360 and of 480 that's 7 times 120 millimeters of cooling it's entirely overkill rule of thumb if you're using a radiator similar to the Alpha cool here and I definitely recommend the optical products not just because they are a huge supporter of Jays two cents but because alpha cool is a very strong name in the water cooling industry all of the major water cooling builders you'll see at some point have used and recommended alpha cool products they are full brass are soothing I take that back they are full copper radiators and copper is the best product that you can use the best metal you can use for dissipating Heat one thing I want to show you though is there's more to a radiator than just the side the length of the radiator or the size of the fan that's going on there one of the most important factors to a radiator is its thickness and as you can see here this is a 45 millimeter thick radiator and this is pretty much alpha cools like main flagship radiator here which is the Nexus X T 45 45 millimeter thick radiator you can get them as thin as 30 mils and you can get them as big as 80 mil which is nearly double this thickness and it's called the monster rat and it's literally a monster these thicker the radiator the more static pressure you're going to need to push air through the radiator unless you have a nice wide fin design like this one I mean I can look right through the fins here and I can see my cameraman standing over there because we have a nice wide fin design which gives us lower static pressure needed to push the air through there and because we have a thicker radiator more cooling space means better cooling so when you're shopping for a radiator whatever brand it may be keep in mind that thickness matters but don't go too thick I wouldn't I wouldn't go putting a 80 mil monster rad on a simple CPU cooling solution for something that's not even overclocked we use the 45 millimeters because I find that they are the best middle ground when it comes to cooling gives you more space more volume surface area for cooling with enough fin spacing this is only ten fins per inch so that we don't have to use extremely high pressure high speed fans that keeps us having a nice quiet build so keep that in mind when searching for your radiator the last thing I want to mention before we start putting this together regarding radiators is if you're using a 45 millimeter thick red like this I recommend that you have at least a 120 millimeter per component size so if you are using just a CPU you could easily use a 45 thick radiator like this with only one 120 millimetres so half of this having this be the size of your rat now that would handle up to a mild overclock the more you overclock and the more heat you put in your system the more wattage worth of heat you have to dissipate which means you need more space so I would recommend if you're overclocking having at least a double 120 millimeter like this for your CPU the more parts you add the more cooling that you're going to need now this particular radiator build we are putting two radiators in a triple and a dual because we are dealing with an overclocked CPU and an overclock graphics card in the desert that gets extremely hot in the summer so we are going with more than that standard recommended 120 millimeter per component or 240 per overclock component because we're trying to make up for the fact that ambient temperatures for the space that this computer is going to be in does get pretty warm in the summer so where you live matters as much as what you buy ok so now that we've unboxed - all of our parts there's a couple of things that we need to do to get ready to do our build you have to prep your system so take out all of your parts get them all nice and laid out in the table get a nice open workspace because water cooling definitely requires a lot of space when putting the items together because you have almost 100% guaranteed to be pulling off some sort of a stock cooler or maybe an aftermarket cooler your going to have to get your your processor ready to go and with that you're going to have to use at least 75% or higher isopropyl isopropyl isopropyl alcohol so yeah it's basically rubbing alcohol this is 91% put it on a lip gloss toilet papers fine even for that and wipe it down nice and good and then just to make sure you don't have any fibers left on there use some canned air if you have it to blow it out or microfiber cloth that won't leave anything behind now here are the parts that we're going to be using for this build as I mentioned we are going with a water-cooled gtx 680 in this build this was already you know applied so this video is not going to include that but the same process to installing your block applies to this this is an optional feature that is a little more advanced the reservoir the pump right here the first thing you want to do is now have your parts laid out is you want to start planning your water cooling build now one of the most difficult things people have when it comes to planning the routing of their tubing is where to place the pump how to mount the pump and where to place the reservoir as you can see this is a pretty big reservoir but what we're doing here is if you take a look at the pump this is an alpha cool D 5 pump so it has this aftermarket block on there we have multiple options on this block on where we can put various fittings and if you look here you can see that I have a fitting installed on here that is a male to male so basically be used to connect two pieces together and I'm going to be using this outlet on the bottom technically it's the top we're going to be using the bottom here and screwing that on to the top of our pump making these become basically one component so we now have a pump reservoir combo that'll be a lot easier for us to mount so since I know that that's the way that I'm going to be doing the pump and reservoir I can now consciously plan the routing of my tubing now the tubing that we're using here we are reusing the tubing from this build because it has it's more than enough tubing and were the goal of this build is to reduce the amount of tubing that we have for a nice clean look now when it comes to planning the component order a very common question that people have is what order do the parts you need to go in if you have a graphics card does it have to go to the CPU then the graphics card or a common myth that I hear is well if you put your graphics card before your CPU you're going to be putting hot water to your CPU which means you're not going to cool as well guys here's the way that water cooling works the entire system whether it be after all of the parts that are going to be generating heat your CPU your graphics card maybe your motherboard if it's included in your loop or if you measure temperature after the radiators which is theoretically where the temperature would be the coolest you're going to find you may only have a one to two degrees Celsius difference between the hottest point of your loop and the coolest point of your loop because this isn't like a car where you're dealing with extreme temperatures where you can see easily a 50 degree Celsius difference or 50 degree fahrenheit difference in a car between inlet and outlet on radiator the entire system is going to want to equalize when it comes to temperatures so as a whole the radiators will keep the average temperature or the all of the fluid in your system at one steady temperature how low that temperature gets depends on how much radiator space you have now so with that because of that debunking that myth letting you know right now the only order that matters is that you have your pump your reservoir directly feeding your pump now if your reservoir wasn't going to be attached to your pump like this let's say they had to be in two separate locations your reservoir outlet needs to be feeding the inlet of your pump either in this case the front or the top whichever the inlet is and the reservoir needs to be higher than the pump that way when you're filling the system gravity will take over and it will push the fluid into the pump the fastest way to murder your pump is to run it dry and a lot of people when they're filling their system they'll just turn it on and then the fluid starts to come down and then it stops and they'll just leave the pump running if the fluids not moving there's air in the pump and that is the fastest way to kill it the fluid is actually what lubricates the pump and if you run it dry and you start to hear that area sound stop you're killing your pump is you I can't even stress that enough so that's the only thing that's important reservoir feeds the pump reservoir be higher than the pump and as you can see here clearly the reservoir is higher than the pump and I think this is kind of a neat looking combo here which more people did this where you take a reservoir a tube reservoir and you feed it inside of a directly to a pump and this is a swivel fitting so as you can see here there's a little bit of play in it not much just a little bit but once we get the fitting on the top with the hose feeding into it it's going to be nice and secure and it's not going anywhere so now that you've got your routing planned and you have a rough idea of where you want to put your parts the next thing I would do is I would get your radiators and some of your other components ready to go I would take your compression fittings or your Bend fittings or your barbs whatever you've got and I would put them on each of your components and then I would mount the fans to your radiators now when it comes to mounting the fans to the radiator another common question people ask is well should I go push configuration which is let's say you have your radiator on the top of the case like that should you have your fan pushing as I almost throw the radiator everywhere should you have the fans pushing air through the radiator or should you have the fans pulling air through the radiator or should you go push-pull which means you have a fan feeding the bottom and the fan on the top pulling the air out when it comes to radiator optimized fans which these fans are and hire static pressure push-pull becomes a little less important not to mention it takes up a lot of space when you have that much thickness of a fan on the top and the bottom I personally prefer push because you have an unobstructed source of air pushing into the fan and pushing the air out of the radiator but that doesn't mean that pool is going to be any less optimized typically you'll see that there's a couple of degrees difference at most one or two degrees difference between pull or push I honestly feel that you should go with with whatever is easiest to install in your case I personally don't even run push pool because I run high static pressure fans which makes things a lot more simple okay so as you can see here we've started to do some of our routing I've got the lower contraption built here on what I'm doing with this compute or what I mean by lower contraption is because we're limited on space in this case believe it or not is a full tower case we're slightly limited on space I've got the pump the reservoir and the radiator all mounted together using you know alpha cools mounting bracket for the pump an alpha cool d5 pump and the res connected with the this fitting here which I showed earlier which is a double male fitting or just has threads on both sides so I connected those together together I mean I connect those together to make one unit now I've already started figuring out how I'm going to route this and the routing order I have for this is reservoir into pump pump into the bottom radiator out of the bottom radiator into the GPU out of the Jeep GPU we're going to go into the socket CPU or the socket block then we're going to go up into the upper rad and then out of that radiator into the top of the reservoir here I might change that order slightly where I may put this radiator between the block and the CPU so it goes from here out into the CPU the upper radiator and then into the CPU and out into the rest that order doesn't really matter it's just going to be whichever looks clean and this is why you start to test fit some of your parts before you start cutting your tubing you'll notice the only tube I have cut is this little one right here that connects the pump in the radiator because that only had one way to go so you you want to be very diligent in the way that you plan your routing that way you only cut your tube once you measure twice cut once that's how it works with anything that you cut metal wood or tubing for your water cooling system here so what we're going to do now is we're going to take our CPU block and we're going to install this that way we can figure out exactly how we want to route this tubing and see how it fits and the installation of the CPU block is going to be the same as any fan control of any custom fan or aftermarket fan that you've installed only difference is you're going to have Springs and a little bit longer retaining screws so the installation is going to depend entirely on your block so you're going to need to look at your instructions and figure out what the assembly is on for that is for your particular block so let's put that in will get the upper radiator in and then we'll come back and take a look at what our final plans are with tubing well tube it up fill it up and then we'll get going okay we're back now and what we've done is we've added all of our fittings to all of our different components here our graphics card our lower radiator our reservoir our CPU block and our upper radiator you can see we have the upper radiator installed and this is how we've I've decided that I'm going to go ahead and route this tubing we go from reservoir into pump pump into the lower rate radiator lower radiator out to the graphics card graphics card out to the upper radiator upper radiator into the CPU out of the CPU into the reservoir so what that allows us to do is have nearly straight pieces of tubing between each component so we don't have any crazy bends or anything also what I've opted to do in this build is to give the the client plenty of options for filling and draining his system one thing that a lot of people tend to leave out of their systems that they don't think far enough in advance about is how they're going to get the coolant out in a situation that they have to drain their system so what we've done here if you look down on the bottom is I've got this ninety degree swivel here with a little extension piece and a plug when it's time to drain this if you lay this system on its back all of the air goes to the highest point in the system which at that point would become this system so all the air because there's going to be air in the system no matter what there'll be some air in the reservoir it will travel through the system and it will settle here on the top which will allow him to undo this plug he can then install a barb or a compression fitting a barb works fine he could take a piece of tubing screw it into there and if he actually does like I do I have a plug that I don't know where it said I should have a just a brass fitting that goes in here and it plugs this tube off so he can screw that on there set it back up and now we'll have the fluid start to capture down here because it's the lowest point of the loop and up here on the top we actually have a drain port take that back not drain port a bleed port so once you open up this plug on the very top of the upper radiator air can enter the system and allow everything to drain out there will be a little bit of residual left down but because of the way that the the Alpha cool radiators have a tapered Inlet and outlet by simply tilting the case like this I'll be able to get all of the fluid out of the case pretty effortlessly so this is a bit of an advanced build here when it comes to the water cooling but just keep that in mind you are going to want a way to be able to fill and drain your system because maintenance is part of water cooling so we're going to do next we're going to go ahead and tube up these particular pieces of components here so you can see how the tubing routes and then the only thing left to do after that is fill it up and test it out okay we're back and we've got the tubing all installed here and we've got a fill tube here if you're wondering why this is hanging out we'll get back to that in a minute we did this build with this minimal tubing as possible I decided to put the radiator in between these two because if we hadn't we would have had lions cross which just aesthetically doesn't really please a lot of people and the person who owns this computer wanted to be as clean and as streamlined as possible and as you can see all the tubing seems to kind of generally go in the same direction and since this is NZXT and the case is curved like that the case window it actually looks really really good you can see how all of our fittings and all the elbows were pre-planned and that goes back to the beginning of the video where I said you have to have a general idea of how you want to route your tubing and where things are going to fit as you can see based on where the pump mounts we this fit perfectly it was almost more luck than anything else but it fit perfectly right in between the drive cages and the graphics card and that's because of the alpha coil mounting plate for this alpha cool pump which gave us a lot of different mounting options which you know this is what happens to when you go with a lot of matched parts rather than kind of picking from one brand and another it mix matching you get good compatibility like this so what's next to do now is to leak test or fill and leak test this system and for leak testing you want to take a roll of paper towels break off a bunch of plies of this paper towel and you want to set them around each one of your fittings so because we have graphics card right here we'll put one down here on top of the power supply in case anything drips from there it'll come down on to there we want to also get some here on top of the graphics card in case we get something that drips out of our CPU block and you want to get all of your fittings basically surrounded with a paper towel that way you can monitor if they start to get wet it becomes obvious when a paper towel is wet ok so now that we've got everything together we've got our jumper set for our power supply and we can power on the system we need to start filling up our system and because we have a tubular reservoir here and by tubular I don't mean cool I mean that it's a cylindrical shape it's going to make things a bit easier for our filling and bleeding because we have a lot more supply going into the pump if you have a smaller reservoir this process may take a lot longer and because we have multiple ports on the top of this reservoir it means that we are able to have our system fully set up and still have a separate independent fill port like this so just slowly start filling your system if I can get my chair and hooked from me using just simply distilled water and if you have multiple ports like this it's easier if you undo a bleed port I have a bleed pour over here on top of the radiator and I wouldn't do not turn the pump on with the bleed port off please under any circumstances because you will end up with a geyser inside the middle of your room I know because I've done it so just slowly start to fill and the moment you start to put fluid inside of your system you want to check for leaks because if there's leaks in the lower part it's going to become apparent immediately and you're going to notice it's very thirsty especially with a setup like this with a lower radiator we won't even see this level start to rise until we get the entire lower radiator filled up and down she goes okay so as you can see now and it may be a little bit difficult on camera because it's a clear fluid we have now gotten to the point to where our lower system is entirely filled and we're starting to fill up inside the reservoir what you want to do now before you bleed the pump is you or you prime the pump you want to fill this reservoir as far as you can now if you're not using a bleed port on the very top like I have here if you've unscrewed one of the ports on your cylindrical rez this is the time where you need to be careful because if you overfill and you reach the top of this it's going to pour out the top so be very careful where you stop and you need to account for the fluid that's still sitting inside the tube because as you can see it's slowly pouring back in there now is the time when I want to fill my or plug my upper bleed port off and probably remove one of the ports here on my tubular reservoir okay so we've filled the reservoir now as far up as we can safely go so which means the bottom part of our loop here is entirely filled now with distilled water so this is the part where you want to turn on the pump for only a second or two at a time until this level reaches the very bottom of the reservoir and then you're just going to repeat the process so now it's safe to plug your pump back up to your power cable and when we flip on that switch the pumps going to turn on and it's going to pull the water level down okay so the level started to get kind of low so now is one I want to fill it up and then just do it again and you're going to repeat that process until the system is entirely filled one thing I'd like to point out if you do have a variable-speed pump like I do in this system put the pump on its lowest setting it's going to make it so that it's a lot less turbulent that bubbles will actually move a bit easier and once the system is fully primed then you can start turning the speed up and down to help move the air bubbles out of the system but when doing your initial filling it's very important that you put the pump on the lowest setting okay now we started to get actual flow of water this is the first time that we've started to get water flowing back out of the reservoir or into the reservoir but as you can see the flow does not fill the tube so that tells us that we have you know obviously a lot of air inside of our system so now at this point fill the water level up above the tube and then we'll start playing with the speed of the pump okay so now that we've got the system pretty much primed the next thing we want to do before we start running any components in here when it comes to CPU motherboard or graphics card is we want to get all of the air out of there and the whole time we're doing this we're keeping an eye on our paper towels and we're doing some actual touching to see if we have any leaks anywhere and so far looks like we're doing pretty good we don't have any leaks showing up anywhere on our paper towels so now we can take our screwdriver and we can start playing with the speed of the pump now you'll notice as I sped that pump up just for a second look how much more water fluid or how much more we actually move the water level if we turn it up a little more you can see we are actually pulling the water level down and now the pump is that absolute maximum speed it's okay to run the pump at max speed when you're filling it because it promotes the movement of the air bubbles and such as long as the water level doesn't drop down to the pump itself this remains having some water in the reservoir you're good to go to leave it running like this so now we're going to fill it up again and at that point we'll show you how to start moving some of those air bubbles out of the system you want to start tilting the case in different directions now if you have a tubular reservoir like this and you still have the port on the top open or this tube coming out the top don't tilt it too far you're going to leak all over the place just a few inches in either direction can promote the movement of air in this system as you can see we got some air moving out right there by simply tilting it this way now if we tilt it forward a little bit as you can see we got a little more air moving out there and this is a process that can take anywhere from a half hour there's a whole bunch more air to a couple of hours depending on how complicated your loop is because we have the reservoir in the middle of two radiators to take a little longer to believe this system normally if the reservoir is at the very top of the loop it'll bleed very fast because air naturally wants to go to the highest point in the in a loop and that would be the radiator or the reservoir and if you take off the top plug the air just goes right out into the atmosphere one thing you can do to to also help promote the movement of the air is to cycle the power supply on and off you can also do what I was doing earlier which is speed up the pump and slow it down speed it up and slow it down and all of that is going to make a huge difference now your pump may start maybe making like a kind of a gurgling sound that's very normal because the pump is the highest port because the pump is the highest portion of turbulence inside the loop air gets trapped in there and will start going around and around and around with the impeller and it will get stuck but over time it will start to quiet down in fact since I started saying that sentence it's already quite a down by at least 50% now when you turn off the system and you turn it back on you may hear the bubbles again okay and we're done with our build here it is completely finished as you can see we have a nice streamlined look here to the to the loop it's not crisscross e doesn't look like intestines and it doesn't look like the Los Angeles freeway we have a nice smooth flow between our reservoir or pump our radiator up through a graphics card through the top radiator back to the CPU and out of the reservoir again because of this we have a very open space inside the case so it doesn't look overly crammed and cluttered so when you're building your water cooling system it's really important to make sure that you plan out ahead of time where you want your components to go putting them together is not difficult the most difficult part of the entire process of water cooling is just planning out what you want to do so guys if you have any questions put them down in the comments as always I'm here to help sure there's things in this video that were missed if you're an overclocking expert yourself or you have an overclock system let us know about it help each other out if you like this video you know what to do share it with someone who it can help hit that subscribe button if you liked what you saw and as always we'll see you in my next video
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