The Beginners Guide to shopping for watercooling parts!
The Beginners Guide to shopping for watercooling parts!
2015-10-07
all right so this is the third time I've
done this video only because I was
getting super long-winded when I talk
about water cooling I get very
passionate about it and I start to talk
about it like Barclays talks about 3d
printing words like that's actually not
my impression of Jerry that's my
impression of me
so no I'll get all mad at me clamming up
on Jerry it's not true
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the goal of today's video is not to pick
the parts for you it's to arm you with
the knowledge you need to pick the parts
yourself give a man a fish he eats for a
day teach a man to fish well you know
the rest of the story and if you don't
well then you better start learning how
to fish right now so you one do a water
cooling loop and you've spent time
looking around the forums and on the
websites and at the end of the day
you're just pulling your hair out and
you're completely discombobulated
because you're like this is hard I
finally put my computer and this is hard
I can't there's more parts and I know
what to do with it doesn't make sense
trust me that's how I was when I was
learning how to do all of this and it's
easy once you learn what stuff means so
that's the point of today's video we're
going to start with chapter 1 now we're
to start right with the basics because
sometimes people want to move right in
to the advanced stuff before they even
understand the simple stuff so that's
where we're going to focus on today now
at the very least here's a list of parts
you're going to need to connect all of
your parts in your custom
you need a block a pump a radiator
optionally a reservoir you need tubing
fans coolant and fittings that's what
you need that doesn't get any more basic
than that we're done alright guys thanks
for watching today's video and okay I'm
just kidding I'm just kidding I'll go
ahead and talk about each one of those
and give you kind of a high level
description of what those parts mean and
hopefully then when you start looking
through your spec sheets and stuff when
you're shopping on websites you can
understand what it is you look now they
connect to apart grab the heat and send
it off into lala land through the
cooling loop to be exhausted into the
atmosphere and heat up your room and
then go into your lungs and out your ass
when you park whatever else so that's
kind of like the circle of life when it
comes to cooling your PC at the end of
the day you fart the heat I've got a
full metal block over here by alpha cool
with a brass top and a copper base and
then I've got over here a nickel plated
copper base block from ek water blocks
this is supremacy block with a plexi
see-through top now one thing I want to
get really clear really quickly
doesn't matter if it's copper it doesn't
matter if it's nickel they're going to
cool virtually identically the same even
finding a difference of 1 degree Celsius
between nickel-plated and bare copper is
usually accounted for in margin of error
so nickel plating is more of an
aesthetics thing but it doesn't matter
if it's a plastic top or a metal top the
top makes no difference to the cooling
of the block it all happens on the base
which is where the fins are and that is
where the cooling is going to take place
so just pick the one you think looks
cool and has good reviews
radiators this is always a fun one this
tends to get people really all up in
arms because they don't know what it
means all right there's three major
stats you need to know when it comes to
radiator stat number one you've got the
length measured in fans so you would
have a 120 or a 240 or 360 or 480 etc
etc so that's just usually telling you
how many fans of what size you could fit
on there so obviously a 120 radiator is
a 120 millimeter fan a 240 two of them
360 three of them etc etc for a 140
millimeter fan then it would be a 140 a
280 a 420 et cetera et cetera the other
stat you need to know is about the
radiator thickness the smallest you'll
pretty much find is a 30 millimeter
which I'm holding right here then they
tend to go up in 15 millimeter
increments where they're going to go
from 30 to 45 to 60 and then they tend
to jump to 80 millimeter which is the
monster red found pretty much I think
the only company offering monster ads is
alpha cool it's like an 80 millimeter
thick thick beast it's crazy and then
the third one is the one that tends to
really catch people off-guard and this
is what they don't know what to choose
and that is fpi which stands for fins
per inch it's a number of fins that is
going to be present in one inch of Bin's
that's also referred to as finden s'ti
so fpi or fin density is referring to
the same thing so I've got two radiators
right here both are the same thickness
30 mils both are 120 millimeter
radiators but they both are very
different in that this one here from
alpha cool is a loaf in density radiator
at about 10 fpi whereas this one over
here from hardware labs has about twice
the fin density in it plus it has a
split fin design now these two radiators
are also going to have different
requirements when it comes to the fans
for them a lower fpi radiator can get
away with a lower static pressure fan
running at lower rpms while sacrificing
a little bit of the cooling efficiency
and maximum TDP wattage or wattage that
could be dissipated in this radiator
this guy over here will typically act
like a thicker radiator by adding more
fins in the same area but at the
sacrifice of acoustics where you'll have
to typically run a higher rpm static
pressure fan in order to push the air
through this many fins
having this many fins also means a
little bit more turbulence a little bit
more resistance and that of course is
what you're actually hearing as the air
goes through the radiator not the fin
you're hearing the air being pushed by
the fan bouncing off all of these fins
so you can get more cooling out of a
smaller radiator at the sacrifice of ku6
now in terms of what size radiator I
recommend well I recommend a 120 for
every part that you're cooling so if
you're cooling a CPU and a GPU a 240
would be the minimum and I recommend
that for stock speeds moment you start
overclocking you are going to over
saturate that radiators maximum TDP that
it can dissipate and you are going to
start getting heat soak where the parts
get hotter and harder over time so I
recommend if you're going to overclock a
240 for every part that you've got an
assistant so if you're an overclock your
cpu and your overclock your GPU then
you're going to need a 240 for each one
for a total of 480 millimeters it
doesn't have to be a 480 ml rad but it
does need to be a total of 480
millimeters that's the formula I use at
a bare minimum I would go with as much
radiator space as you can fit or surface
area that you can fit in your case
rather have more cooling than necessary
than not enough trust me GPU blocks
we've got a 980ti sitting right here
with a full cover block on it now people
always ask me what is full cover mean
full cover doesn't mean it goes to the
end of the card that's not what full
cover means full coverage means the
block is contacting all of the parts on
the card that generate heat that namely
being the GPU core the vrm or power
delivery system and the RAM chips and
then a backplate is mostly aesthetics
and also offer some rigidity but at the
sacrifice of more weight a full cover
card it's going to be a lot heavier than
say just a universal core block that you
can put on the GPU but this thing here
will give you maximum overclocking and
give you maximum cooling and it's going
to also add a lot of heat into your loop
so that's why you need to make sure you
have more radiator than you need then or
at least that you think you need that
way you have plenty now some of the
blocks will go to the end of the card
some like this one won't it's really
going to be up to the manufacturer and
how they
them look with ek all of the plexi
blocks are shorter and all of the acetal
blocks like I have on my Titans behind
me are the length of the card why they
did it that way I have no idea but this
is going to be a little bit lighter than
the blocks that you would find right now
in skunkworks so that's something to
keep in mind - this is like twice the
weight of what the graphics card it used
to be maybe not twice but pretty damn
close okay so fittings here's one that
people tend to really over complicate
fittings for soft tubing
all you've got to do is match the
numbers so if you are using a 3/8 by 5/8
soft tube then you want compression
fittings that are 3/8 by 5/8 guess what
they match the barb is going to go onto
the tube the collar is going to slide
over you're going to tighten it down and
you're gonna have a good day because
typically it won't leak you're gonna
have a bad day if you don't match those
you get a color that's too big and
doesn't actually clamp down but as long
as the numbers match now euro sizing
some euro websites they deal with the
millimeters here in the United States we
still deal with the standard system
where you've got you know 3/8 5/8
half-inch three-quarter inch all that
sort of stuff so if you're on a European
site don't worry typically the they'll
convert it back to the way everyone else
in the world does it so it's just the us
guys that have to worry about that when
it comes to Barb's all you've got to do
is match the barb size to the inner
diameter measurement of the tube so if
you've got a 1/2 inch inner diameter
tube then you want a half inch mark
that's it there you go
now the other thing people get really
confused about is the threading of the
actual fitting itself I've had people
email me asking why people run 1/2 inch
inner diameter fittings when the hole is
only 1/4 inch big it's because I CG
quarter thread and they think that means
that the hole is only 1/4 inch big G
quarter thread is the thread size not
the hole size the hole is much bigger
than the inner diameter of the fitting
and the tubing I promise you that G 1/4
thread is also the only thread I've ever
used I've never used G 3/8
I've never needed to use it in fact I
got sent it one time and it was there's
like a black sheet but just got banished
to the closet
and it didn't even have a purpose nobody
uses that just G 1/4 thread all day long
now fittings for rigid tubing it's all
pretty much measured in millimeters and
they tend to always be a 10 millimeter
inner diameter but that doesn't matter
nothing else matters with rigid tubing
except the outer diameter of the tube
and you'll typically find 10 by 12 10 by
13 and 10 by 16 those are like the two
sizes that you will typically sizes
you'll typically find bits power seems
to kind of have all the 12 millimeter
stuff going on with the Krystal link 13
millimeters the most common that you're
going to find and then 16 millimeters
making it making its way into the scene
with being a thicker tube that people
are liking to see nice big fat tubes but
all fittings for rigid tubing are
compression that's the only way it can
hold together you tighten the collar
down the o-ring expands or gets squished
out it pushes against the actual tube
and it's not going to pull out or go
anywhere so if you're going to be using
a 13 millimeter outer diameter rigid
tube then you want a 13 millimeter
compression fitting for rigid tubing
it's really simple it's not any more
difficult than that
so don't overcomplicate it alright
fellas let's go ahead and talk about our
tube all right I'm gonna keep it clean
I'm gonna keep me I want at least one
video that's clean just one there could
be so many any windows in this video I
mean it's just so hard you see what I
mean
this sucks there's another one the jokes
just keep pulling them right out of my
ass
we were kind of on a roll there for a
moment weren't we so when it comes to
tubing you've got a few different types
of tubing you have got soft tubing and
hard tubing and ladies you know which
one you prefer
okay I promise I promise this up I'll
stop I'll stop it soft tubing is very
flexible it tends to be clear usually
but now you have black and you have
white and you are starting to get
different colors of soft tubing that are
being introduced onto the market but
soft tubing materials tend to vary
depending on the actual appearance of
the tube so white and black and all that
are going to be usually a different type
of material but one thing to keep in
mind is clear soft tubing will tend to
over time cloud and leach plasticizer
which depending on the quality of the
tube that you use if enough plasticizer
gets leached it could get stuck in the
tiny micro fins found inside GPU blocks
and CPU blocks and could cause you a you
know a bad day so you would definitely
want to stay away from the plumbing
section at Home Depot using the soft PVC
or soft vinyl tubing because that stuff
I've never seen any tubing leech like
vinyl trust me it is terrible so tygon
tends to be the material that a lot of
people go towards now rigid tubing
you're going to have three major
materials usually you're going to have a
PT G which is much more impact resistant
easier to bend bends at a lower
temperature doesn't bubble up as much
but it's a little bit more cloudy it's
also harder to cut it's also harder to
deburr because it tends to chatter and
be a lot softer as it's a much more
plasticky material and then you have
acrylic which is much clearer than PE TG
most of the time but it's also much more
brittle it's harder to bend because it
tends to be very sensitive to the heat
where you can go from not hot enough to
too hot and blistering in just a couple
of seconds depending on your heat
application so it's a lot more finicky
when it comes to bending the other thing
which people are starting to do now with
which actually people were doing first
and then it went away and then it came
back is people using like copper tubing
where they're going down to Home Depot
and they're getting copper tube and to
benders and tube straighteners and
they're doing some really cool like
steampunk stuff or polished copper or
even nickel plating the copper and
getting metal pipes in their system as
well that's one thing to keep in mind
that you could do but it's a lot more
work it's a whole different style of
bending or not
going to really talk about it in this
video other than it's a type of material
people have used in rigid feeding the
tubing builds but the reason why I'm
mentioning it though is because copper
tubing tends to have the same outer
diameters as its PE TG and acrylic
counterparts so the fittings for those
rigid tubes are compatible with copper
tubes if they're the same diameter makes
no difference alright we're getting
ready to drop the bombshell of all bomb
shells and that is the fact that when it
comes to coolants J's two cents is
saying it right here today I do not
recommend running straight distilled
water in your system period I think
people are going to disagree with me on
that I don't recommend it and I don't
recommend running straight deionized
water as well those are meant to be
bases for concentrated fluids that are
have things in them that you need in
your system straight distilled water has
no growth inhibitors sure the minerals
and stuff have typically been steamed
out but over time growth can still occur
not as often obviously is like tap water
or drinking water but growth could occur
the other thing is when the water is
stripped of its I on during the
distilling process or the deionized
process the water wants its ions back as
bad as I want my GPUs back when someone
takes one or borrows one as much as J is
a whore for GPUs water is a whore for
ions and it's going to try and pull it
from anywhere that it can which means it
could start attacking the metal surfaces
in your loop it'll attack aluminum the
most fortunately most companies don't
use aluminum for any of their medals for
their radiators or their blocks and
stuff so it won't really be a problem
but it could start corroding either the
copper or the nickel plating or whatever
and if your nickel plating isn't the
greatest product you know quality then
the deionized or distilled water can
start attacking that first causing
corrosion and flaking but if you're
going to ignore me and you're going to
use it anyway because you can get it for
a buck down at the grocery store at
least here in the United States some
countries have to actually ship in their
distilled water it's kind of crazy but
you at the very least we need to add two
or three drops of PT Nuuk which is a
biocide to keep growth from happening
inside of your straight watered loop now
if you're going to take my advice and
use distilled or deionized water with a
concentrate just know that all the
concentrates on the market
all they are is designed to be poured
into like a usually three parts water to
one part concentrate to give you the
fluid that has everything you need in it
it's got anti corrosive anti growth
inhibitors it's it's going to have
everything in there even even the
lubricants to keep your pumps nice and
lubricated so that you're going to keep
everything nice and healthy in your
system and they tend to be good for
sometimes up to two years depending on
on the type of metals in your system
before you have to change the fluid
whereas distilled water would need to be
changed usually every six months if
you're running this drink distilled now
nano fluids are what I'm using in
skunkworks nanofluids actually give you
a little bit better cooling because the
nano particles themselves are giving you
another catalyst of transferring heat
away so the nano particles will soak up
the heat as well move it and then off it
goes plus you get a really nice kind of
a neat opaque color where it's not
see-through or transparent the only
problem with nano fluids is when you
turn off the system and it sits for any
length of time the color starts to fall
out a little bit where it starts to look
very thin and then when you start up the
system it remixes and everything's
finding it but don't worry that fallout
is not going to clog up the nano
particles are so small they'll just
remix once the pump starts moving the
fluid and you get kind of a neat
swirling effect one thing to keep in
mind though if you're going to PT G or
acrylic tubing is that there have been
negative effects between ethylene glycol
mixed solutions with those types of
tubing so you could have a problem there
so you want to make sure that the
coolant that you're picking is not based
on ethylene glycol which could be a
problem especially with those plastics
I'm not sure what else there is to talk
about I know this video wasn't super
fancy but I wanted to share the
information with you guys I also know it
was kind of long and it could have been
much longer trust me some of the other
recordings I did were upwards of 40
minutes but anyway if you guys have any
questions do me a favor hit me up on
Twitter and if you think I left
something out that should have been in
this maybe we'll turn this into a series
where all I will do an update and go
more into depth of particular topics
within the chapters that we've discussed
today so hit me up on twitter i'm at JS
$0.02 tell me what you think I may have
left out or if you guys just enjoy the
video you can tell me that
that always helps and makes my day a
little bit better but I hope this videos
helped you guys and I hope you
understand a little bit better about
these parts and what they mean so I'm
gonna get on out of here guys thanks for
watching share this video if you think
it's helped favorite this video if you
enjoyed it or just hit the like button
if you guys liked it otherwise mash the
hell out of the dislike button because
even though it makes me sad that helps
too so alright guys time to get out of
here we'll see you in the next one
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