so skunkworks is done but that doesn't
mean it's ever really done you know me I
like to screw with things unnecessarily
and that's exactly what we're gonna do
today with skunk works but first listen
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okay so skunk works is done when it
comes to hardware and overclocking if
you guys haven't seen the previous
videos of what led up to this
configuration of skunk works which is
like its fourth or fifth iteration now
it's RTX 20 80 TI SLI which
unfortunately is useless until some
titles come out that actually allow you
to SLI and dx12 and r-tx on not
battlefield at this point it's got a 79
60 X 16 core 8 or 64 xviii radii we went
backwards our 16 core 32 thread
processor and the same 64 gigs of ram
and all that stuff but what what the
system has never had and has had in here
since the day I had built it all the way
back to the 4790k era that was when I
actually built this particular system is
it never had like lit fans
I've got some pretty lit fans though you
guys follow me on social y'all are dope
but anyway I digress
let's go ahead I've never had fans that
light up and the builds I've done since
then have all had some sort of
illuminated fan because that's kind of
become the thing since I started
building this system back in 2014 so
that's why today we're gonna tear it
half apart just to do the cosmetic swap
of lit fins now I don't want you gonna
put a little fire logo up here which I'm
I say lit aren't you feel I can feel it
these are the coarser ml 120 Pro LED
fans these are kind of these the the
predecessor to what's now known as like
the HD 120 or the RGB and then now the
light loop or ll fans these are just
white and you can order them in white
green no I'm white blue or red no green
unfortunately I might have gone with
green but I want fans that light up now
here's the thing here's the reason why
I'm really doing this not just because
they light up but these are the quiet
edition SP 120 fans in here except for
the front these are the AF or airflow or
SP for static pressure they've been
running in this system now for four
years going on five years and the
bearings are starting to get a little
bit loud they've got some dust and stuff
in there and shir I could tear them
apart and clean the bearings and read em
and put it back together
these are Maglev fans that's what the ml
stands for for magnet levitation so
there's not actually a bearing or a
sleeve or anything in there that's being
contacted it's writing on a magnetic
field which makes it extremely quiet
when it comes to motor buzz and stuff
like that if you've ever had an old like
ball bearing or sleeve bearing fan go
bad then what happens is they start to
make a buzzing sound dust gets in there
they start to slow down they hum and
that's not what these are gonna do
unlike regular systems where you can
just sort of like open it up unbolt some
fans and plug it and put it in the
skunkworks is a little more complicated
but I want a little more bling like I
said but we're not convinced I talked to
Phil but prior to this video we decide
we're going to leave the 140s down here
as the standard corsair fans that don't
light up because we want to bring our
attention up to here and not necessarily
light this area up down here it's just
white LEDs right so it would just kind
of be showing through which I think
would be neat but I don't have any 140s
right now and to put 140s down there I
would have to
them out of my current system I have
upstairs in the studio and let's just
face it I'm kind of lazy so here's what
we're do we're gonna put one in the back
and then we're gonna test that before I
go drinking the loop one of the nice
things about the ml fans is the fact
that because they're not RGB they don't
have any extra wiring that you've got to
deal with now there's plenty of room for
it in this case some of the smaller form
factor cases are kind of difficult to do
like you know the RGB fans because
they'll have another lead coming off of
it specifically for the RGB it's that
four pin and then that's got to go into
a controller and then from the
controller it's got to go into a
whatever and you can just use splitters
but again you're acting you're adding a
whole bunch of wiring so this is all
you've got right here for the MFN it's
just the PWM because the actual white
LEDs in the case fit or the fan itself
get power through the PWM 12 volt on
there okay
don't stick your finger in the pinch
which is something I do a lot of what we
wanted to kind of test right now is yeah
there's no keyboard or mouse plugged in
I know EVGA we just wanted to see if the
white LEDs on this I don't like that
they don't affect the UV at all yeah the
UV is stronger than the output of like
lumen wise
my only concern honestly is these white
pieces right here which to be honest I
think I could actually like take these
off and paint them alright so after
about an hour and a half worth of work
and waiting for paint to dry literally
watching it dry it's ready to go now
with our battleship gray paint it's the
same exact paint we used on the rings on
the SB so as you can see they serve a
battleship gray and a good accent to you
know the rest of our system they're very
monochromatic but now these are gonna
light up white so now we've got to go
ahead and install them and like I said I
like to do things the hard way
betweens now I've got to drain my CPU
loop which is fortunately the easiest
loop in the system to drain so that I
can actually set these up
so yeah with the fans at 100% it's
pretty obvious it's moving some hair
that's just a single 120 we think it
looks great like this and with the front
how you can see the fans there I'm gonna
shut the lights off for quick so you
guys can see I think that looks
absolutely phenomenal in terms of you'll
see that the fans through there but now
I feel like I have to see the bottom
here I feel like we have to see the
bottom for two reasons one just the
amount of additional static pressure
we've gained by doing this so I get this
panel off a quick
the biggest complaint you guys had and
I'm gonna go in justify I just didn't I
made a while back once again that
doesn't the justification does not hold
water anymore because the bottom fans
here
it's panels always so tight oh they're
bottom panel is really tight so these
are airflow fans you see the blades how
there's lots of blades and they are
being spaced out and there's gaps this
moves a decent amount of air through the
radiator the problem is it's got a lot
of obstruction has to overcome as come
through the panel has to go through the
rad which is a thick rag and then it has
to go through all the components and
wires and tubes that are on the bottom
and then out the back I do have two rear
exhausting fans back here that help pull
that hot air out the problem is at the
time I built this system and what with
the 560 radiator which is for 140
millimeter fans there were no static
pressure optimized 140 millimeter fans
on the market this as mainstream as
waters become or water coins become
static pressure on the larger formats
even 200 millimeter static pressure fans
are becoming sort of a thing the larger
the fan gets the lower the static
pressure and this has gotten the job
done it's just not doing it as
efficiency as efficiently as I would
like so now we have to switch out the
bottom ones so yeah we're in ahead and
did it that was a lot more work than
actually seemed like it would be though
because I had to take the fans out of my
system upstairs which I don't do a lot
of rendering on but it's my rendering
rigging now it has no case fan so I've
got to replace those maybe with
of these these are all the fans we took
out look how many fans we actually freed
up here
well there's 14 of them right here but
that's okay I digress here they are
right here by 140 million
milah milliliters millimetre ml 140 so
much higher static pressure they're
gonna be much louder cuz I've got to go
in here and still adjust the fan kerbin
stuff we had to drain the loop to fill
it up for the top rad we got those in
and yeah the loops look like two
different shades of green because this
one's slightly aerated because it's
fresh that one's already been in there
for a while so they will go back to the
same color so let's go ahead and turn it
on now it's gonna be loud like I said
they're running a hundred percent so
let's see what it looks like was
anticlimactic that is so loud I still
think painting it was a good idea
because I know the white would have
shone through really bad it actually
makes a buzzing sound and move so much
air because this grille so yeah this
system under 100% load would be pretty
annoying okay so maybe I'll maybe
quickly I'll go into the component of
the program and slow down the fans watch
jokes gonna be on me these some for some
reason won't slow down under DC so all
of the cores are sitting in the mid to
low 20s at the moment which is pretty
insane of course we've got C States and
Mable to all the voltage and everything
is really low I'm gonna run Cinebench
right now and see what the temps are
hottest course 74 35 hope there's a 76
but yeah okay so I'd say obviously the
airflow and this is super effective but
obviously we've got it quieted down a
little bit on the loud side so in
typical J fashion one thing leads to
another the leads to another
that leads to another yes I know the
front pans aren't going they're not
plugged in right now these fans are
extremely picky with voltage what do you
mean by that is if they don't get enough
starting voltage then they just pulsate
like the lights will pulse and yes to be
fair I've got four fans per header and
there's plenty of amperage on those
headers there to be able to power the
fans my problem is the volume
specifically the bottom fan right here
the bottom fans the blades are so close
to this grill that when I close the
grill all the way it's kind of sitting
off as you can see it makes it very
irritating sound
listen
to make a very high-pitched propeller
kind of a sound as you can hear well
j-just turn it down what I found is it
still makes that sound all the way down
to the voltage at which the fan won't
even start it's just because of how
close the blades are to the grill so now
I'm stuck with the prospect of putting
the other fans back or just putting some
other 140 millimeter fans that I have
like my Vardar fans or something and
going from there so it's back to the way
it was a couple hours ago or a few like
four hours ago because now I just I mean
I don't even care anymore at this point
now at the end of the day I'm very well
aware that but that systems not silent I
never built skunkworks to be silent it's
got 16 fans in it for 14 fans whatever
was I said earlier it's got a lot of
fans way more fans than it needs and
that's what makes it cool as you can
hear now the volume is much more
manageable and the system looks better
with those fans up in the top and stuff
I now really think that this is a
perfect example of why custom computers
can take so damn long to build well not
as long as it took to build the post
Malone PC because I'm building a house
in less time than that tech so that's
besides the point at the end of the day
a skunkworks is going to continue to be
tinkered with because it is my it's my
favorite system I've ever built it's now
a it's now a legend because it is in a
case that you can't even buy anymore and
I thought about actually decommissioning
this system a while back and I decided
not to now so far as always guys thanks
for watching this useless video which is
nothing more than J changing out fans
and hopefully you found it somewhat
entertaining and again a huge thank you
to our sponsor for today's video Kano
and their new Harry Potter one so please
check out the link down in the
description below you guys can go and
see compounding discounts on that like
we mentioned in our ad thanks for
watching guys and as always we'll see
you in the next one
cut to cut
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