what's up everyone Jays two cents here
and before we know what this summer heat
is going to be upon us so that's why
today I'm gonna take some of my best
water cooling advice cram it into one
video to try and make your next water
cooling adventure an easy one
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we're going to talk about a few things
here on a very high level and some of my
tips when it comes to each one of these
subjects were in talk about radiators
fans - being mixed metals coolants and
just some best practices when it comes
to your water cooling loops so whether
or not you're a seasoned veteran or a
beginner go ahead and check out this
video because you might actually learn
something who knows maybe you guys will
teach me something that happens often -
lets go and talk about radiators because
I've got a very simple method that I use
when it comes to sizing my radiator
there's a lot of things you could talk
about in the radiator this thickness
there's length there's width right
there's sounds we talk about something
else here but I digress
the radiator is the most important part
of your loop this is the only thing in
your loop taking heat out of it sure you
can have the best block so you can have
the best pump you can have hardline and
best fans but if you have a terrible
radiator then you're not doing yourself
any favors and efficiently removing heat
from the system same thing could be said
for having an under sized radiator in
your loop your blocks take the heat from
the component your radiator takes the
heat out of the loop that's how it works
it's really simple so what I like to do
is take about 120 millimetres or that's
120-millimeter fan worth of radiator per
component so if that wasn't there we
just had a 120 this is why you see 120
is being used all the time on CPUs and
all in one water cooling loop powered
GPUs because a single 120 30 mil rad is
usually more than enough to handle a
standard component and even a little bit
of overclocking now when you start
stacking components in your loop and
adding more GPUs or more CPUs or Joe
sometimes I guess you have a dual
process the dual processor system but in
my case over here we've got two GPUs and
we've got a CPU monoblock which means
it's also touching the VRMs which get
very hot so it's much more than just a
CPU being heated or cooled by that mana
block over there what I would typically
say is a 240 millimeter worth of
radiator per component that's to 120
millimeter fans if you're gonna be
overclocking so that means in this
system right here based on my own logic
it would look like I'm a little bit
undersized because we've got two GPUs a
CPU and vrm it's four components so
ideally I would want for 240 millimeters
worth of radiators but that's where
thickness comes in because adding
thickness increases the surface area or
the amount of fins thin density that the
radiator has which increases its cooling
capacity now that's where the debate of
thickness versus length comes in whereas
the diminishing return where's the sweet
spot 120 millimeter fan size and 30 mil
thickness is pretty much the standard
what I'm using over here are 40 mil
thick radiators which is actually adding
a decent amount of surface area so this
system even while overclocked has more
than enough cooling capacity but there
is a diminishing return you go all the
way up to the 60 mil thick rads or even
those 80 mil monster rads it becomes the
point where you're gonna have a huge
pressure drop across the radiator where
the amount of fans that are the air
that's being pushed through is slowing
down dramatically through those radiator
fins which is where you would then need
push-pull and that's a whole different
topic so keep it simple 120 millimeters
per component if not overclocking 240
millimeters per component if
overclocking and you want to make sure
you have plenty of headroom now that
segues us perfectly into fans
as fans are gonna ear to hear two main
stats you're gonna hear static pressure
and you're gonna hear airflow optimized
both fans are gonna move air the
difference is how these fans are going
to react when you have resistance in the
airflow so for instance you've got a
radiator here and you've got a fan the
fan has to push air through these fins
now these fins are lined up straight
they're not angled or anything like that
but if you've ever seen air come off of
a fan it does not blow straight up it
goes out in a cone shape so what's
happening is the air coming off the fan
is having to straighten itself back out
to go through those radiator fins and
that's creating resistance and the
thickness of the radiator determines how
much pressure drop there's going to be
over that distance so that's why you
have static pressure optimized fans fans
that are designed to be able to just
brute force the air through the
resistance to be able to give you the
least amount of pressure drop now what
the main difference that you can tell in
these fans is if you look at the fins
right here you'll notice air flow fans
have a lot more fins this is a Corsair
airflow fan this is a static pressure
fan from Corsair actually this one's a
little bit in the middle it's not a
straight up static op static pressure
optimized fan it's kind of a middle
ground you could use it on rads or a
case but if you look you'll see they're
much more fins they're much more angled
and there's a bigger gap between the
fins if you look at this radiator you
can see there's a much smaller gap so
what that means is the air once it goes
through the blade has no choice but to
keep going in the forward momentum
whereas the gap in these blades once
this hits resistance the air can kind of
splash back out so that's why you hear
the constant debate about airflow fans
versus static pressure now usually the
difference is minimal between them I've
used airflow airflow fans on radiators
for years because back in the day there
was no such thing as static pressure
optimized fans that was something water
cooling made a thing so we just used
whatever fans we had but at the end of
the day if you're trying to get the most
performance out of your loop then static
pressure fans are what you want now one
last tip regarding fans and radiators is
the idea of push versus pull now push is
where the inlet or open side of the fan
is where it's feeding air from or
pulling air from and pushing the air
through the radiator so we're flowing in
this direction pool is just the opposite
the fan is
the opposite side of the radiator
pulling the air through the red first
and then exhausting it out the other
side the debate has been which one is
more beneficial well the reality is it's
about the same regardless the pressure
drop is pretty much the same and you are
really going to be hard pressed to
notice any sort of difference in your
overall temperatures and day to day use
that's where push-pull comes in where
you have a fan on either side so the
pressure drop is less noticeable
push-pull is something I usually reserve
for radiators that are really thick like
60 mil rads because it's gonna take care
of the pressure drop across the radiator
otherwise you're just costing yourself a
lot more money for a very very minimal
difference in temperatures now you can't
talk about rads without cleaning it's
important to clean your radiators the
process of building it involves a lot of
stuff right a lot of solder flux all
those tubes have to be soldered together
the end tanks are soldered together and
as much as the radiator companies and
manufacturers clean them it's still a
good process of a good practice to clean
them yourself there's different types of
products on the market this is Mayhem's
Blitz Pro I used it with this build
right here it takes about two whole days
to get the radiators clean using this
product but it's guaranteed to get it
clean it comes with the pH tester to
make sure everything is good so cleaning
your radiators is definitely it's a must
in my opinion otherwise you could
potentially be playing with a disaster
in terms of pH imbalance color changes
and other things happening in your loop
cleaning your radiators is super
important it's best to do it before you
build your loop and definitely between
fluid changes you can't talk about water
cooling though without getting into the
highly debated topic of fluids
something's happened over the last 20 or
25 years where water Cooling's really
become a thing distilled water is no
longer good enough I don't actually
believe that what I'm saying is that
when it comes to building a boutique
system like this it looks beautiful and
has all this flashiness just dyed water
like this for many people isn't good
enough myself included have a bit of a
snob in that aspect but distilled waters
honestly all you need you don't need
anything more than distilled water it's
pure it is or deionized water it's kind
of the same thing
you can add dye to this make it any
color you want but if you're going to
use this you need to make sure you use
an anti corrosive or kill coil or
something to keep growth and corrosion
from building up in your loop water will
water is life and life wants to live in
your loop in the form of algae so you're
going to want to use a kill coil or PT
nuke or an anti-corrosive whatever the
other thing is you've got these boutique
fluids this right here is the Primo
chill view it's obviously what I'm using
in my my Green Hornet builder here so I
decide to call it Green Hornet this
right here is a kite type fluid that
always causes debate you have those
people are gonna say it's gonna fall out
it's got a clog it's gonna build up in
your system and that's a risk I'm
willing to take because it looks cool
and that's just part of being an
enthusiast if it does do that then I'll
be cleaning out the system and starting
all over and that's the risk I take when
I decide to go with these systems but if
you kind of want to go in the middle you
don't want to go with something
potentially like this and you want to go
with something better than distilled
water then you look at something like a
pre-mixed or a concentrate like the
Mayhem's x1 X t1 primo Chile's got
fluids XSP see all the water cooling
manufacturers have their own brand of
fluid typically they are distilled water
base fluids that's hard to hold like
that basically there are distilled water
based fluids that have anti corrosive
anti-growth agents that have been not
like secret agents but they're in there
keeping your loop healthy and you can
buy them in premix colors concentrate or
get it and clear and mix your own color
like I did here now speaking of coolants
and anti corrosive let's talk about
aluminum and mixed metals yeah that's a
topic that is obviously very debatable
by many people don't mix your metals
never mix your metals galvanic corrosion
galvanic corrosion Cal Vanek corrosion
you can hear it over and over and yes it
is a very real thing it's science you
can't deny it you mix metals and you
don't treat the fluid you're going to
get galvanic corrosion the best course
of action is if you're gonna have a
copper based loop like I have here or
nickel plated copper then you don't want
to add aluminum to your loop that means
a Lumina fittings aluminum plugs any of
that stuff now of course the anti
corrosives are definitely going to help
but why introduce the chance of galvanic
corrosion that's why companies like ek
have come out with these aluminum kits
and what they've allowed to happen here
is you get a custom loop level of
cooling capability and performance at
the cost of a
copper's not cheap it's a precious metal
so prebuilt assists the loops like this
come with everything you need the
fittings which are aluminum the blocks
even the GPU block you have a GPU block
version I did a review on that the fans
the plugs the jumper this guy right here
to power up your power supply to turn on
your pump to bleed your system
it all comes included so these are
definitely worth checking out but one
thing I want to point out though is when
people tend to freak out that the idea
of aluminum and copper mixed in the same
system all of your a iOS that are that
are using a copper base are mixed metal
all of the ASA tech radiators are
aluminum your Corsairs
and all the other brands out there using
ASA Tech are running mixed metal a iOS
the difference is they're sealed you're
not going to be having to deal with it
or service it and they have specific
fluids in them to reduce and nearly
eliminate the chances of galvanic
corrosion I want to kind of wrap things
up here with tubing because this is a
part where a lot of people kind of get
hung up do I want to go with rigid
tubing do I want to try and deal with
bending this stuff it looks cool but do
I want the headache or do I just want
flex tubing alright just hook everything
up and it's flexible and I have to worry
about how things line up what are the
pros and the cons well the pros to flex
to me like I just said is there's
there's cut it install it you're done
right it's got these locking collar
fittings that you could put on there or
you can get cheap barbed wires and even
use zip ties or hose clamps if you want
this is much easier to work with
obviously but the downside to soft
tubing is it almost always clouds over
time even though the fluid manufacturers
do the best they can to try and keep
that from happening you get
manufacturers like primo chill with an
LR 2 LRT tubing that's designed to not
leach plasticizer plasticizer but what
do you think makes this flexible right
so it can leech and turn cloudy that's
something that just is almost guaranteed
to happen with soft tubing we've been
pretty fortunate around here to not have
it happen a whole lot we've had soft
tubing on the test bench now for a
couple of years I've changed it once in
that time but it's hard to get any
sexier than ptg or acrylic hard tubing
but it's got a lot more work involved
you gotta measure it you gotta bend it
you
cut it you've got to buy extra tools a
heat gun if you're gonna use a jig of
some sort or just eyeball it like I do
this is a lot more work but the end
result is usually very very pleasing I
mean it's one of those things where you
have to determine whether or not you
want simplicity and function over well
just pure sexiness in my opinion or you
can go with glass tubing like I did over
here this is my second time doing glass
tubing and it's not the hardest thing in
the world it's definitely one of the
more nerve-wracking ones because you
know to glass but then I see my glasses
it's not going to stain it's not going
to leach plasticizer and it's always
going to be extra shiny if you kind of
look at this tube up close right here
you can see it's got some scratches on
it it's kind of cloudy it's just never
gonna look as good as glass but there's
that but when it comes to heart tubing
though I highly recommend p/e TG because
you can't do what I'm about to do with
acrylic this is just a standard PVC
cutter from cobalt so what is that is
that Lowe's or Home Depot Lowe's okay it
doesn't really matter it's just a blade
and because this is technically a soft
plastic wear acrylic if I tried to do
this it would just shatter but you can
mark where you want to cut and then just
cut it's just that simple and you can
use the same thing to cut your soft
tubing as well so it's a simple tool
that cost about 10 bucks that can take
care of well a lot of a lot of tasks
anyway guys that's why we're go ahead
and wrap up this video I will do more of
these throughout the summer as I hear
people complaining and kind of asking me
questions I'll make videos based on
obviously viewer feedback but these this
is just some of my tips when it comes to
putting together your loops and kind of
shopping and knowing what is what and I
hope this has helped you guys if it if
you think it helped somebody make sure
you share it thanks for watching today's
video if you're new around here
subscribe and as always guys I will see
you in the next one
you
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