Gadgetory

okay so today working on a Jeep Grand Cherokee the track bar on it has been giving some play let me show it the track so this is the track bar right here starts with this mount comes up curves up around here and ends up right here I'm attached to the frame so when I'm turning this bearing right here has about probably like a millimeter by two millimeters of play in it so when I hit a bump um it doesn't quite catch like it doesn't it doesn't not doesn't stabilize the car so it just starts like what you call the death wobble so I'm replacing the track bar and hopefully that'll fix it well there's a few other things that it might be but usually you know with the death wobble I've heard they like 85 90 percent of the times the track bar that's done that's doing it so I took it to Les Schwab and they quoted me probably about 300 bucks to fix it then I went to a Riley Auto Parts and got my own track bar for about 70 80 bucks and what comes with it is just a track bar itself this is the part that connects the frame over there and that goes up into the mounting block that we're just looking at them so it'll be tighter there on that little inner hole and then you have these little connectors as well which just basically makes it so you can fill it up with grease or run so you know smoothly and stuff anyway so that's what we'll be doing today get the lower point off pretty simple 2d attached it's just a 15 millimeter bolt as I've been there it's unscrewed it dropped it out it's kind of nice because it has this little gizmo in here that holds the other nut steady so it makes a lot easier now this other end is long it's gonna be more difficult up inside of there there's a bolt with a cotter pin inside I'm gonna show you a picture you going to be a lot harder to get out space cooler I'm out right now that cotter pin you can kind of see the very end of it sticking out through that a little bracket right there I'm just trying to get that out sprayed some wd-40 in there trying to straighten the cotter pin to just pull it out I'm still working on it alright out that little guy yeah you got to use a one of these guys I think it's called like a pickle bar or something like that anyway um basically all you do is you just tack it up in there it's kind of like a pry bar of sorts and you just pop that whole thing down hit this in with the hammer a few times and it will release that joint and drop the track bar off finally go what I found worked best is a coming at it from like F well I had to level it out so I put that in back in just barely tacked it and then on this end I came at it from a level side like almost from the driver's side wheel and popped it out that way that was easiest way I'm kind of hard to get a good swing out with a hammer but okay now whatever works right okay so it's important when you're installing the thing to make sure to start with this side over here by the passenger end the reason is because this end is solid not the other end on it has a pivot head so even if you're not completely lined up with the hole you can move the head around to fit inside of it so start with the other end and end up with this end with the pivot head on it um once you're tightening it down I believe is supposed to go to 25 to 35 foot-pounds of torque and then the other one end up at 45 to 50 people were saying online they start to break off at 55 pounds of torque and you know that's not where you want to be so I think that's about it you know once you tighten them down you're good to go I was remembering I do add videos pretty often usually one or two a week so I don't forget to subscribe and like if this helped you