Gadgetory

so today in front of me I have a fully functional clear Nintendo switch all of the housing on the back and the front have been changed into a clear plastic looks pretty sweet there's a couple other videos on YouTube showing kind of the same thing but none of them are super detailed on how to accomplish this process I'll be selling these kids down in the video description right below this video there's a couple different colors not only clear there's like atomic purple there's green there's red all of them transparent which is exactly what we're trying to accomplish remember though as with all of these projects you attempt this at your own risk I would say if you're serious about this make sure you watch the video all the way through from start to finish to make sure it's something that you can actually accomplish if you know you're doing the screwdriver though and you're good at organizing your screws everything should come out fine let's get started I'm going to start with the left joy cot since both joy cons are slightly different then I'll show the right joy con and end up with the center console itself at the end I'll have a successful fully functioning clear Nintendo switch to play after I'm all done this whole process took me about an hour to accomplish so go slow and keep your screws organized there are four try point screws along the back of the left joy con I'll have all the tools and stuff linked with the clear shells in the video description and then the whole plastic back unsnaps from the front and folds open be careful not to stress those ribbon cables along the sides if you rip those your controller will not dock or charge anymore the 525 million power battery comes out next no adhesive or anything holding it down it just has its own little plastic holder there are two thin wires going down to the plug on the motherboard I pulled mine out pretty gently because once again this is a fragile process and I don't want to break anything there are three more screws holding down the plastic battery holder I'll unscrew those and unlatch the ribbon for the trigger button then I'll also disconnect the joy conrail ribbons each of these have their own locking flap as well but the latches are different for each ribbon so watch out for that luckily there's only one screw holding the rail in place so I'll remove that and set it off to the side and pull out the little black latching button that allows the rails to disconnect from the switch body while I have the button here I'll just toss it into the clear counterpart it has a little notch on one side so it'll only fit in the correct way I'll set the joy con rail into place along that same clear plastic piece with its one little screw and we're done with the first part anyway now the left trigger is a little bit of a pain to disconnect and even more so to reconnect but I'll walk you through it there's a little plastic pin that needs to be decompressed underneath the trigger so it will let go of the black plastic I'll press that in and then grab the trigger there are two squirrelly little Springs that are here that you're gonna hate in a few seconds they'll keep track of them for now the electronic trigger switch is held down by one screw I'll remove that and very gently transfer it over onto the clear counterpart remember never bend kink or tear these ribbon cables they are pretty fragile there is one Phillips screw holding that little button in place and then I'll put the two little Springs over the little circular guiding pegs on either side of that tiny board before trying to get the trigger button and top over them the trigger has its own pegs for the springs it's tough to keep the spring straight and get the trigger clipped in at the same time but it's a good idea to make sure it's done correctly the first time so you won't have to come back and fix it later it can be done the rest of this left joke on body is pretty straightforward the joystick is going to come out next pretty simple construction with two screws on either corner of the square body and then one little ribbon connector attached to the motherboard this also has a black locking latch that needs to be lifted up before the joystick can come out up at the top of the board we have three more screws these screws hold the board's tight for the top buttons they'll come out as one piece after the ribbon cables detached from the larger motherboard below it the top L button can come off at this point to notice that it also has a spring attached to it this is easier to work with but still don't lose it grab the little minus button from the controller along with its inner rubber cushion and set those off to the side in an organized fashion there are only two screws left holding this motherboard in place remove those and the motherboard comes loose now you can disconnect the rumble pack from the motherboard but I found it easier to just leave it intact since it has a pretty fragile connector I don't want to mess with it if I don't have to the rumble pack has its own adhesive and a pretty tight slot holding it in place but my tweezers provide enough leverage to get it out now the motherboard and vibrator out all the buttons can come loose these little units are designed to only go in one hole so don't worry too much about losing track of their orientation as I set the arrow buttons into the clear housing you can see that the little notches are in different shapes for each button clever construction on a tendo's part I could be using the colored buttons that come with the clear kit but I prefer the gray ones personally after the buttons are set in place the rubber padding goes back on top same with the square button below it and finally we get to start putting the beautiful-looking electronics back into the clear plastic the rubble tag goes in first since I've left it attached to the motherboard and the motherboard has those two screws holding it to the plastic remember if you kept your screws organized the assembly is super easy now I'm not really sure what this little black spacer is around the Joye con joystick but I'm gonna transfer it over anyway just in case it's important the joystick itself can poke its head through the clear plastic hole and then get the two screws holding it down on either corner before trying to get the ribbon cable plugged in I'll make sure the latch is up so it can receive the ribbon and then tuck it in place locking it back down again there is an unfortunate lack of Lego connectors inside these things but the ribbons work just fine I just you know miss saying Lego sometimes the top buttons get set into place along with the minus button it's shaped in a way that will only let you set it in wonder and then the smaller circuit boards get folded into their slots I'll zoom in a bit here so you can see exactly how they're situated with those three screws and finally remember that spring you weren't supposed to lose get that situated on top with that el button then we can attach the trigger and battery housing back over the motherboard first getting the trigger ribbon clipped in just like with the rest the ribbons each of them will have their own little latch including these sight joy con rails that we were working on earlier it's really starting to come together now and looking pretty fantastic the battery bracket has three of its own screws as long as you get the motherboard screws in the right spot previously this won't be too big of a hassle I'll use my plastic pry tool to clip in the battery metal is a bad idea when working with anything connected to power setting the battery in place allows me to close up the whole contraption positioning the rails and trigger in a way that the whole thing can fold completely shut all the way around the outside get the four Y shaped screws back into the rear housing and it is one fantastic looking piece of hardware it even works at this time it would be a good idea to make sure all your buttons work before getting everything officially screwed in also keep that in mind as we start working with the right joique on this one has some special requirements to stay functional but I'll walk you through those the right joy con has the same four Y screws on the back I'll set those off of the side in an organized fashion and then open it up like a little book making sure there is zero stress on those rail ribbons after it's open I'll gently lift out the battery and then give a gentle pull on the connector so it'll come away from the motherboard the little antennas the next thing to get out of the way it's got one little circular connection like we've seen inside of a lot of cell phones the battery bracket and right trigger is held in place by three Phillips head screws once those are out the bracket can lift up and out of the way it is kind of at a weird angle this joy con is built a little bit different than the other one but I'm still able to lift the ribbon latch and free it from the controller and since I have it out right now I might as well make this section clear to stay organized it's got the same little plastic niblets holding the trigger in place as the other joique on once that trigger button has popped off we see the same little electronic switch with it's one little Phillips head screw holding it in place I'll pop that off and immediately transfer it over to the clear counterpart so that one little screw doesn't get lost the two Springs for the triggers are still here I'll plop those in the little slots and gently line the trigger over the top of the springs this is probably one of the trickiest parts of this project making sure the spring stay in their grooves while clipping in the trigger is like defeating the final boss in a videogame it is possible though back inside the right joy con again the rail does need to come off I'll unlatch each of the two ribbon cables and then immediately transfer the rail onto the clear section this part is the same as the other rail with the one little screw up top lifting off the rail and then transferring over the black latch button and reassembling the whole thing with the one little screw pretty simple process once it's lined up right it should fit naturally without any force needed the joystick is next on our list of things to remove it's got one ribbon cable and then two Phillips head screws on either side of the joystick I'll wiggle that out of the hole and then remove the two screws that are still in the motherboard now this motherboard is a bit more complex it has two more ribbons at the bottom that we need to worry about but once those are disconnected I can lift the motherboard out along with the rumble motor the infrared sensor at the bottom of the joy con was one of those ribbons along with whatever this square thing is if you know let me know in the comments it's probably some kind of antenna this joy con also has a black buffer between the joystick and the front plastic I'll move that over to the clear piece it's got little tabs to help it line up in the correct spot then I'll start moving over some of the buttons these are just like the other joy Kong where they can only go in one particular location and each button has a little rubber cushion over the top that allows it to decompressed every time it's pressed it's nice that they use rubber instead of something mechanical that might break rubber lasts a lot longer the last button to move over is a little plus sign up at the top of the controller and it's little rubber shield I'm going to continue using the original buttons from my switch but there are always the colored options that you see at the top of the screen to make things easier for myself I'm going to connect the square-looking ribbon cable and infrared sensors before tucking the motherboard back into the clear frame since these cables are a little short it's easier to attach them first the rumble motor is still attached as well so I'll plop the hold dangly contraption into the clear plastic at the same time at this point in the game I'm going to make sure all the buttons can be pressed and that none of them are obstructed from this point on if you screw anything in too tight it might make the buttons unpossible so we'll be checking that a few more times throughout the assembly the joystick is in place with its two screws the ribbon cables tucked in and latch down the motherboard itself has two screws holding it in place once again after those are tight I'll check the buttons to make sure they can still be pressed if the buttons are stuck I'll just loosen up the screws a bit it's pretty easy the joy con rail is neck with its two ribbon cables latching onto the motherboard and then the battery bracket and trigger button get plugged in flipping it around to sit on top of the motherboard before the screws can go in though the right corner button needs to be slipped into place and then those three screws go into the plastic frame to hold it tight remember too tight and the exterior button stop working so find that balance I'll use my plastic pry tool to hit the battery plugged in and then set the battery back onto the holder along with the little Lantana gizmo it has the little circular plug at the bottom after it's plugged in the antenna part just rests in a little slot next to the battery then the whole joique on can be folded shut like a book lined up and closed and then the four Y screw is going to the back panel I think this controller looks pretty awesome that black and copper colored antenna thing on the front is perfect for clear plastic both joy cons are now clear and appear to be functioning perfectly this thing is looking better and better by the minute the last thing to clarify is the console itself for this I'll be turning the thing off and grabbing a Phillips screw driver to remove the bottom two screws next to the USBC charger each of the side rails also need to be unscrewed now you might be able to get away with just removing one Center screw since that's all that's holding on the backplate but I just removed all of them for kicks and giggles make sure you use the right size head to the screws don't strip there is one Phillips head screw at the top of the console as well that I'll remove and then all the screws along the other side rail keeping everything organized of course it's good to put all the screws back in the same hole that came from even if they look like they're the same size there are four more screws going directly into the back panel these are the same in Tendo Y shaped screws that we saw in the joy cons there's one tiny screw left under the kickstand and then the whole back can lift off exposing the SD card slot large silver metal plate and processor fan that you'll be able to see through the new clear plastic luckily we don't need to go any deeper inside of the joy con in this video there are two things that need to be transferred over from the back the game card slot protector and the kickstand hardware the game card slot protector has just one screw then lift the protector off and place it over on the clear back and then tighten the same screw down again the kickstand has three screws of its own and they'll attach directly to the nuclear kickstand on the replacement housing I'll make sure the kickstand works a few times before plopping the whole contraption back onto this which again getting it secured we'll have two screws at the bottom of the switch four screws at the back of the switch including the one little screw up at the top and the little a guy under the kickstand and the final step in this whole project are the screws into both side rails and you're done now I might be a bit biased but I think this clear electronic thing is phenomenal you get to see the technology at work inside the device we use every day it's pretty incredible I will have all of these kids link down in the video description so if you want to try this on your own switch you can there's clear there's a couple different colors as well let you look and see what's in stock remember this took me about an hour so I would set about that much time or more so you can get it all done in one go it's important to keep all your screws organized that's probably the biggest tip that I can give you you might have noticed that I have a new shirt on this is my buddy Moe from back in 1812 you could say that Moe is my bro I'll have these shirts linked down the video description as well if you're interested in getting a couple of those and I'll be down in the comments for a while answering questions about this project whether you're watching this video today or a year from now go ahead and ask your question either I or someone else who's done this project will answer it for you thanks ton for watching and I'll see you around