that feeling when a package that you
ordered on eBay or whatever finally
arrives you tear it open take out the
packing material and it's that last part
you need to build a machine that you've
been waiting forever to build this is my
new motherboard for the DIY pfSense
router machine and hopefully the one
that's going to survive drop a like on
the video if you like that feeling as
well and drop a dislike if you hate
seeing me kill hardware
course there are mi series power
supplies feature premium components for
great performance with very low noise
check out the link in the video
description to learn more Shh
be respectful this is a graveyard the
graveyard of motherboards so here is
everything for the DIY pfsense router
including my two dead s 1200 KP intel
server boards let's see a third time
really is a charm now in the comments
under part one of this video there's a
lot of people criticizing the choices
that I've made in terms of the hardware
for this machine with criticism number
one being lettuce why didn't you just
buy a cheap one new machine on ebay and
use that with my response being well
because that's not a very interesting
video me sitting at my computer clicking
the Buy and number two with people
saying how overkill it is that I'm using
a Xeon for a router I know we already
had it I didn't I didn't run out in and
buy it to make this video now with that
said I have bought a couple of other
boards now but that is because we are
already many hours of 3d printing into
creating some custom hardware in order
to make this project work and could we
have found something that would fit
together better out of the box yes of
course we could but that's not fun and
we are going to start by testing this
motherboard outside of the system to
find out if it works at all before we
introduce some of the variables that
might end up killing it so we'll start
with CPU installation this CPU known
good I actually ran it right before I
started up this build log in the first
place and it was fine Ram very unlikely
that's killing our motherboard it's
actually on the validated list not to
mention that it's kingston ram
and the last time kingston produced ram
that killed anything was oh i don't know
never now i've got a lot of people
saying that it's my cooler and back
plate that are killing the board to
which i would reply did you even watch
like did you even watch the video the
entire back plate is covered in
electrical tape that is not what
happened but for the haters I'm going to
go and I'm going to grab a stock
heatsink to test the board with first
for extra safety I'm going to try a
standard desktop power supply next now I
don't think the problem is my power
supply what I think the problem is is
someone that almost nobody in the
comments actually picked up on and that
is this four pin connector that comes
off of the one you power supply that I
plugged into a fan header on the
motherboard that I checked with a
multimeter later and which appeared to
be supplying rather than requiring power
no power to my mouse and keyboard why
don't we start with different RAM and
see how it goes from there now it's
always possible when a motherboard dies
that it can take other hardware with it
and I'm really hoping that it didn't
kill our Xeon CPU let's try a different
CPU so now I've got a 35 70 K from the
CPU pile to try the weird thing is with
the other chip I wasn't getting any beep
codes and it was warming up it was
actually getting power ok this time it's
failing post new plan it's quite
possible that even though they're on the
same socket this motherboard doesn't
actually support the 3000 series
processor so I grabbed a 2600 and we're
going to take this baby for a spin
no power to the peripherals still I'm
starting to think we've got a dead board
on our hands here I can try a different
stick of memory Oh
oh hello so she's a little picky on the
memory compatibility but we have a post
this is good news now let's try our Z on
chip with that Ram and see how that goes
I think we may have not only killed our
board but also killed our CPU and RAM so
we're going to the 2600 and the full
height ram even though that's not really
going to work for the final build I'm
going to give it a shot first I'm going
to try the 35 70 K to see if our BIOS
update at the very least might have
given us more options for newer
generation processors to work in this
board so that's the end of that chapter
now let's try the now let's try the
original Xeon hi all right
the RAM works but the CPU is dead which
means I can build today and change out
the CPU if I decide to do that at all
remember Xeon for ECC support so we're
not actually taking advantage of the ECC
memory so if I decide to change out the
CPU I can do that at another time
all right let's let's forge ahead then
we give you guys a little lesson on
electronics a piece of plastic shroud
over top of a speaker does not affect
the functionality as I will prove right
now so as you can see just like on the
previous two attempts I have only
removed the top of the plastic let's go
powered on oh what's that oh oh cutting
depth Oh cutting down the speaker
doesn't do anything because why would it
I could rip the speaker right off and it
wouldn't do anything the speaker just
wouldn't work ha how about that the
number of people educating me about the
dangers of a metal backplate fairly high
I don't know if you guys know this but
the manufacturer of the CPU heatsink is
also aware of the dangers of metal back
plates and the back plate actually had a
non conductive coating on it so yeah
that that was a thing but just in case I
had damaged that non conductive coating
I did there we go we've got CPU contact
I did cover it in electricians tape last
time around the internet was right
I think the backplate heatsink mount did
kill the board because we are now down
to well up to three dead boards but not
for the reason that they think it did
because the back plates anti conductive
coating was not penetrated I think the
reason it died was actually from too
much mounting pressure but there's good
news and we are going ahead with the
project because I've discovered that my
z87 and Wi-Fi motherboard happens to be
almost identically laid out to the Intel
board that we were using before so I've
grabbed a different Xeon and we are just
going to build a router today damn it no
matter what because our gigabit internet
upgrade is already done so here we go
now for my next trick I'm going to take
my test bench and physically move it
into the case all right
power supply still works
very good we are in good shape friends
we are in good shape okay there's still
one more thing to go wrong actually now
I'm not going to use the same PCIe 1x
riser that I was using before if I can
get away with it because my 16x riser
that I ordered on ebay actually has
finally arrived so we should be able to
get full 4x performance out of this card
assuming that this solution works at all
so now we're going to go almost all the
way and boot into the OS and see if our
network card is recognized let's pull
this back off oh I think that was
plugged in kind of funny maybe that was
the issue all right that was the issue
just needed to reseat that puppy and I
really don't like that this keeps going
load optimized defaults then boot you
stop that what's your deal
so it actually blue screen even without
our network card in there which leads me
to believe maybe it's something else my
windows 7 bench drive could be just kind
of flaky right now so let's try my
windows 8 test drive
so we're booted into the Windows 8 Drive
so we're going to try our network card
again if anyone from Microsoft is
watching why the actual if I start
typing my password immediately on that
screen and I only have a single user
account on the machine does it not just
log me in there's always like 1/4 of a
second delay and this is the first
character or to fix that all of our
network ports are showing up it is time
to actually install it inside the
machine
so what I'm doing is I'm actually trying
to jam enough wires through this gap
that even if I accidentally press down
on this tab while I close it it actually
can't open because that will release my
memory modules just for doing some some
quick testing here put this baby up here
oh we're close I can smell it now this
is a cool thing about this case you can
actually install your expansion card
either way and I think we may be better
served by doing it this way this time so
if I press on these I'm gonna move nope
it's finally here everything is working
which leads us at last to the whole
point the thing I wanted to test with
this video our custom cooling shroud for
our heatsink we need to test two
different scenarios number one how does
it perform with only these high rpm fans
pulling air from the front and blowing
it out the back of the chassis towards
our aligned CPU heatsink and in order to
give this config the best fighting
chance we're actually going to try in a
couple of different ways because you can
see the way the chassis is meant to
channel air flow is in the front / top a
little bit and then out these
ventilation holes at the back so we can
actually try it both with the whole
thing open and with everything around
the CPU heatsink itself actually blocked
off so that we're getting more airflow
through the fins of the heatsink but
let's try it completely open first
so our Idol temps actually look pretty
good sitting in the
35 - you know 40 degree range so for the
sake of this video I think we're going
to use the CPU package temperature here
alright let's start a stress test and
see what happens to that
well 65 still climbing ah so what are
our hottest core sitting at around 60
degrees with the package sitting at 63
all right well let that reach
equilibrium and we'll come back in just
a moment
okay small update temperatures are still
rising we've reached 70 degrees on the
CPU package 71 now hey I think our
maximum temps have settled in now per my
usual approach I'm taking the highest
number that it's recorded so CPU package
has spiked as high as an 80 degree
reading a little higher than I'd be
comfortable with with that said this
system is not going to be under that
kind of a load 24/7 but still so we're
gonna go ahead and we're gonna block off
the holes that we don't want it using
and see if that helps now it's actually
kind of hard to tell from looking at
these temperatures because they're kind
of all over the place but with our
blocked off holes you can actually see
from the curve that shows all of the
core temperatures that we're getting a
little bit more empty space under that
70 degree mark right there so I would
say yes we did get a few degrees
improvement by using this approach this
is kind of a funny story I've got the
the architect of the fan shroud that
we'll be installing for our second test
and he was about to explain to me why
one of the pieces of the shroud has like
this janky thing cut in it so when I was
modeling it originally I forgot that
there's is it I think it's this thing
yeah yeah this thing is right in the way
so oh look it perfectly fits now okay so
we actually had to change the
motherboard yeah I know so now my all my
plans
are wrecked all the original
measurements like is it significantly
different no okay so now that you move
that where it belongs this shroud should
fit very nice oh look at how perfect
that is it's so perfect and I gave this
buffer room here I didn't make it as
long as it needs to be because it can
overlap a little bit your modesty is a
really amazing yeah oh just just a flex
room for it to be able to go in that's
that's correct
okay okay no no I want to do it I want
it alright alright
note that the design still allows these
three fans to cool the network card
although we did not determine that we
needed a shroud for that that little
that thing is in the way I didn't model
that so it's uh oh
well it's supposed to be flush on the
top it's not the way I designed it but
yeah I mean it it's supposed to be flush
I mean it's mostly flush most of the
airflow is going to make it to the
heatsink I think which is okay because
it won't kill the system to have a
little bit of airflow over here looks
cool doesn't it alright let's close it
up and find out if our maniac scheme
here worked so for those wondering we
actually 3d printed this sucker on the
ultime kerttu that we reviewed in the
video that you can check out right over
here
you
there you have it folks absolutely
fantastic by using our 3d printed Shroud
to direct more airflow towards our
passive heatsink we were able to drop
our CPU temperatures by somewhere in the
neighborhood of about 10 degrees meaning
that even under full load I would be
extremely comfortable running this
system all the time it took a long time
for us to get here but our router is
finally ready to load up pfsense and
deploy in the server room with our new
gigabit connection whoo oh hi I didn't
see you there you know what's great
master opcom just head over to draw dots
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as well I think that pretty much wraps
it up if you're looking for something
else to watch now that you're all done
with this one might I suggest you check
out our channel super fun video where we
play the game drunk stoned or stupid
it's not nearly as dumb as it sounds
it's actually a pretty fun game terrible
name
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