Gadgetory

okay so last night tried to kind of make a stencil for the nuclear logo didn't go very well I used this version and then I have some adhesive-backed stencil paper but as you can see tracing things is not exactly a Forte for me most of these were done on a table so I could barely see actually through to the actual logo I need some form of backlight to help me so I thought of grabbing the ultime ker turning it on so the white light is shining through it and putting it down on the table but another thing that was brought up is that I should be tracing it this way Brandon pointed out that it's a lot easier because of the grid lines and it's a lot easier because it's a paper if I'm going to be cutting everything anyways it doesn't really matter so here we go the mastercase 5 by Coolermaster gives you the freedom to truly make your mid-tower pc case your own with a variety of modular parts and accessories click now to learn more I love how of all the things that I've either never done before in this build or I'm extremely unexperienced in creating a stencil was the biggest roadblock alright so that was the first one done honestly it actually kinda looks okay so I need to create three more of those and then four more that are actually just a circle and don't have the nuclear details on the inside this is gonna be a bunch of stenciling so I'll catch up with you guys in sec they really just taped the crap out of it okay so I have my four nuclear 300 wears one of them anyways I'll find it I have my four nuclear logos now I need to cut the shapes and things out of the nuclear logos using an exacto knife in a cardboard box we're getting close how's that I got to cut out three more that took forever so all right so all my tape markers are on the 3d printed bomb spacer thingy all the stencils are cut so now it's time to take the adhesive part of my stencil off and stick it on the bomb that doesn't look right that's three inches up what the oh yeah one good thing is the adhesive doesn't seem too strong and try to place it down and hopefully it won't be too hard to get off logo number two it's with one thingy facing up I now need to take off my placement stickers the placement of these things admittedly is not perfect okay so now it's time to paint the nuclear logos so I wet the brush and I'm gonna dip it in a little bit that's basically what I know to do so wish me luck dude if this is kind of supposed to look a little weathered so you know what if there's imperfections maybe they were on purpose okay okay YouTube comments we should rename this video make it not even about fallout 4 anymore and just call it Luke is really bad at arts and crafts hopefully I can even that out a little bit on further coats but for now we just need to let it dry next in line in the Train of nerve-wracking things that we have to do is cut the bomb because we need I Oh holes we need to cut holes for power audio HDMI and an HDMI coupler also we don't have to cut a hole for Ethernet there was an option to just screw in an AC Wi-Fi dongle thing so I'm going to do that and then leave it inside the case so before I start cutting I actually kind of need to figure out how big the things are that I need to cut the holes for so for audio pass-through like this just used an elastic band and I'm gonna use crazy glue to glue them both together so the hole can be for both of them for USBs I'm going to stick them all together like this and then glue all of these together so I can have one big bank of USB pass throughs that I cut one hole for wow these went really fast already like rock hard how's that look okay that was a little close with the superglue and the USBs and it drying really quickly around the elastic band but I think we're good so I just need to let these things dry okay so we're doing the second coat of paint now so we'll see how it goes this time so I went outside of the stencil slightly right here oh my goodness you can stay see it how do I fix that I don't know all right so the next hurdle is making sure that everything on the inside doesn't fly all over the place whenever you try to move it at all and my idea for this was terrible so I called my dad who's generally better these things than I am and he came up with a way better idea which was using ready rod to run supports through the bomb bolting them on the outside and then also using readyready rod to support the power supply in the top so we're gonna do that but that's way too high up in how far could this motherboard go down because we could basically bring the bolt system down farther and then you got room like maybe even raise it up a little bit more than that okay I got my marks so now we just have to project these straight down okay there's rod number one these might even be too wide they are will need just because something I like we could plastic or even just like a zap step alright so we've changed our minds a little bit instead of actually going through the holes on the motherboard we are going to just suspend the motherboard from the rods using zap straps all the ready rod holes are now done we're going to have it poked out a little bit past the nut on the end and we're gonna chop the end of the ready rod off on this so both sides look for saying yeah dad had the idea of using some actual piece of something to make the platform instead of just zap straps we're going to use the meshed part so it actually breathes a little bit better and I'm just going to Dremel the crap of it we have made our power supply platform so it fits right into the top like so and I'll probably hot glue that in place or whatever and then power supply just goes plop right on top of it so with sound effects wit yeah Bob specifically that's where that's the sound that the vast 5 makes you put it down ok so the super glue and rubber brand thick rubber brand okay so the super glue and rubber band thing actually did seem to work so now it's time to actually cut so the first thing I'm gonna put in is our audio okay so I just drilled my pilot hole so I know on this side I want the headphone stuff to go so what I'm going to do now is drill a bigger hole with a slightly bigger drill bit then just file it boom okay this is an exciting moment our first bit of i/o is coming out of the bottom of the bomb that is our audio so I'm going to hop through this bad boy in then we're going to move on the next one I'm going to cut us for the HDMI coupler that's a little overhang with some bolt holes in it so I'm going to just cut a circle push it in from the outside bolt through the bolt holes and then it'll be secured that way Brandon just pointed out that it kind of looks like a surprised face oh my goodness if you're drilling a hole like this use this kind of drill bit save you a lot of trouble I just forgot perfect look how snug that is oh my goodness so if I can find screws that fit and nuts it fit on those screws I would like to bolt it in but honestly doesn't even need it USB is next in the row so a new USB now and I'll just deal with the extra wires Dremel Ang's pretty much gonna be my best bet because it's a long rectangular space another like impressively close fit I'm going to pull it in a little bit and then hot glue it and we'll be good to go I can't get this stuff off me geez I got hot glue stuck on my finger okay so I'm just picking the positioning for the power a boat there should be okay okay so we have our hole of where we want it to go okay boom there is our power cable need to bolt that in then we're good to go all right so all the i/o is done I didn't have the feet on while I was actually drilling these this top one to the USB 3 works just fine the second one in it's going to interfere with this leg pretty quick then the second bottom one kind of closed if you have some large USBs so when you're doing this again get it away from this leg somehow is a good idea ok so the final coat of paint has been applied I just have to take it off now this is a little bit nerve-wracking because it looks kind of like absolute junk right now so hopefully it doesn't after we pull all this tape off so there's a little bit of spillover but that's probably my fault somehow not a very artsy person so I'll take the blame there all right so most of the things we have to do are done now I just need to cable manage because if I don't cable manage well enough for at all the computer components will literally just not fit ok so I need to make spacers I thought why not some cardboard I'm going to tape them on to the card here and here I don't know if this is gonna work but I gotta give it a shot so here we go okay so our custom ghetto cardboard spacers are done they're taped on and I'm gonna try to fit this guy I actually think that's gonna work one more problem that I have is actually this guy jut out of metal at the end which could touch the end of the motherboard so I'm gonna have to do something with that ok so I grabbed some like shelf material stuff I don't even know what this is but it's not conductive I still have no idea I'm just gonna naturally even have this on there but as you can probably already guess the air flow in this system is going to be horrible so we're going to have to address that and we will do that by testing it first with no additional airflow measures and then we'll try to add a few things here there and see what we can do to improve it now I know I said that we are going to be hanging the motherboard off the support bars with zap straps but it like doesn't move at all so I'm gonna zap strap it anyways but realistically there's no point all right so moment of truth we're gonna turn it on oh I'm really nervous um oh hey oh okay whoa the computer works okay the computer works oh I was really worried about that for so many different reasons but all right I need to figure out thermals real quick so running i-264 on the cpu within like a couple seconds we had a CPU throttle of about 30% so yep one thing I'm going to try to do is try to fit an industrial PPC naktu in there I don't know if I'm gonna be able to make it fit I might have to do a smaller fan but this would be nice that does seem to be helping the cooling although I really don't think that's going to fully solve the problem whoa Oh yup there it is see if you throttling now one thing that I'm actually going to try to do is maybe just turn off turbo turbo mode disabled so what we're going to do is try to jump into our Crysis 3 skybox test if it's able to pass that then it's probably fine well I've never had a complete computer red screen before that's a first no idea with that but it's not good 11:1 I broke everything is what this one's called okay so last night Linus sauce moving around on the motion sensor things and kicked us out told us to go to bed I came in this morning I had missed my alarm picked up the bomb didn't realize that there was something over top of the legs and two of the supports on the legs this one and this one actually completely broke off so I super glued them and and then when I went to go put the bomb down immediately after breaking it there was something holding on to the switch cable and it ripped the red wire completely out so I stripped both ends of that soldered that back together this is working again at that point I was pretty pissed off and I was like I just want this freakin thing to work I reek able managed a whole bunch of stuff and then I dremeled and cut out two pretty massive holes actually on the bottom and then grabbed some really low profile 60 millimeter fans from some stock AMD coolers that we had and I'm going to mount those in the bottom as air intakes so those should help quite a bit and with in between the clips up here cut out this should actually be air flow this time so let's try finishing the build a second time hopefully I don't massively break anything else and yeah let's go I have noticed that there is actually some extra room here so I might actually try to upgrade the CPU cooler the silverstone aro 6 is in I was a bit of a tight fit on the back had some problems there but it's fine also the RAM didn't fit is nicely as I'd hoped so this second inner stick of Corsair lpx got a little bit of a unique treatment the caps for the heat pipes on the cooler were a little bit too big and pressed against it and made it Lee into the other stick so I took a dremel to it and kind of cut some grooves where madness looks horrible where the heat pipes would actually be trying to go so now you can put it in it actually it's just fine so once lino sees that I might not have a job so hopefully you guys like this video a lot the 300 watt is no longer needed this thing served me well for the time I had it but the 450 watt has finally showed up got it got it got it which is good because last night when we were testing we did actually run into some power issues so very happy to see that got a new cooler on the motherboard time to start trying to put things back together it's unlikely that it will melt a lot of computers are plastic - hot damn alright so inside you can see we've got some space in front of the CPU for it to breathe we've got our two sticks of RAM like we were talking about this Y cable for the fans goes to the two fans that are in the bottom this winde eSATA cable kind of tries to keep itself out of the way and then plugs into the SSD which is back here we have our anti shock mat thing which is going to try to keep the back of the motherboard protected from things shorting it out we have our Nano which is held away from the motherboard a little bit by our custom cardboard spacers and our blue painters tape our Wi-Fi card is actually keeping the SSD away from the back of the graphics card because the SSD is closed in metal and I don't want it too short the graphics card and all together it fits all under the top crossbar which is the ready ready rod or whatever so that we can put the plate on top of there and we can put our new 450 watt power supply on top of that plug it into here plug in the graphics card plug in the motherboard 24 pin and eight pay and then plug in the SSD and then we're going to see if it runs okay so there's one thing left that could ruin everything the top of the bomb gets this ring on it and then this cap goes on top of that ring but on the inside part of the idea that we have for air to be able to escape at the top is for these sections between the clips to be cut out if I miss I could take out one of the clips and then it might not actually go in here and then they're just going to be a hole in the top of our bomb which will look super dumb what a random note I haven't shaved since we started this because I've literally been working on this or sleeping I showered I haven't shaved all right so the top is on it's clipped in there we left a little bit extra on each side so I could click it in and then we taped it on so that it shouldn't rotate and then fall in so that those air gaps should actually stay there now I'm a little bit worried because there's some weight to it and those legs are maybe not as strong as they used to be in their young days so it's kind of go time I want to make sure this thing works ok so the legs go in its plugin time okay so fans installed on the bottom new CPU cooler the CPU was thermal throttling within seconds before now we've been running i-264 for a little bit we're floating between 6070 degrees depending on what core you're counting I think we might have done it tunnel there the easy to use privacy app for mobile and desktop internet browsing you can use tunnel bear on iOS Android Mac PC or even a direct Chrome extension that lets you tunnel or browse the Internet as if you're in up to 14 different countries with ease this allows you to access things like geo blocked websites which can be very frustrating to deal with it's super easy to install and use and if you encounter any issues have friendly support bear 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if you liked it dislike it if you didn't but like come on man down like rude so anyways these are Amazon affiliate code to buy stuff from there check out a t-shirt link the description down below become a contributor on the forum and watch this video if you haven't seen it yet which is part one of the built