How to Build the ULTIMATE 4K Gaming PC Build Guide
How to Build the ULTIMATE 4K Gaming PC Build Guide
2014-06-16
4k displays just got affordable and I'm
not talking about those 4k TVs with the
30 Hertz input I'm talking about single
tile 4k desktop monitors that offer fast
enough response times and low enough
input lag that PC enthusiasts and gamers
are gonna want to take a serious look at
them but the upgrade particularly the
budget allocation part of it is not as
simple as grabbing that new monitor
plopping it on your desk and expecting
to get the best gaming experience on it
right off the bat unless you're already
living on like the bleeding edge of
available PC hardware it's very unlikely
that you'll be running modern games at
that massive 3840 by 2160 native
resolution without making some changes
so you'll be stocked with one of two
solutions run a native resolution with
significantly reduced frame rates
remember this is four times as many
pixels as 1080p and well over twice as
many as 1440p or run at a lower
resolution and deal with the blurriness
and artifacting that exists when running
a monitor and anything other than the
native res or upgrade so prepare your
wallets and prepare your minds for our
4k gaming rig ultimate build guide we
need like an explosion effect in the
back like all of our build guides it all
starts with a safe static three
workstation and anti-static strap I
actually like to keep mine on my ankle
to keep it out of the way all we really
need for assembly is a multi-bit
screwdriver but a pair of side cutters
can be handy for cable management and
you never know when some little needle
nose pliers will come in handy before
you begin I always recommend plugging
all the components in and powering the
system up once outside of the case to
ensure everything works while it's nice
and easy to reach the motherboard box
makes a handy non conductive test bench
but for now let's just get into it with
all the noise getting made about proper
multi-core support in games with mantle
like battlefield 4 and thief 2014 and
DirectX 12 and upcoming games in 2015
it's as good a time as any to pick up a
CPU that supports more threads our
choice was the Intel Core i7 49 30 km
while it does have plenty of PCI Express
3.0 lanes for high bandwidth graphics
cards and other future expansion cards
and support for 64 gigs of ddr3 memory
with relatively inexpensive 8 gig
unbuffered dims it simply came down to
the fact that it's Intel's least
expensive 6 core 12 thread CPU and we
really wanted all dem cores so lift up
both retention arms one on each side of
the socket then pull up the hold down
plate orient the CPU by matching the
corner of your CPU with a triangle with
the corresponding triangle corner on the
socket then insert it gently ensuring
that the little plastic nubbins in the
socket align with the ones that are on
the CPU itself I usually give the CPU a
slight wiggle to ensure that it is
seated correctly the whole process
should not require any force up to this
point next lower the hold down plate and
lower first the retention arm that locks
down the hold down plate then the second
one and the little cover will pop off
just like that our memory selection
won't surprise anyone who watched my
overview of g.skill ripjaws e quad
channel ddr3 twenty four hundred
megahertz ram we went with high-speed
memory because it's becoming more
affordable and some games are actually
starting to benefit from it and we threw
in overkill for gaming 32 gigs of it in
here for content creators who also want
to do some media work with large files
when they're not gaming say for example
recording and editing game streams start
by identifying the color matched slots
on your motherboard and opening up the
retention clips on either side I
recommend using the ones furthest away
from the CPU socket first for marginally
better air flow around the socket area
align each Tim according to the plastic
key in the slot and the notch in the
bottom of the memory module then it
first insert one side into the side
without the clips then the other side
with the clips do a quick double check
to make sure it's aligned correctly then
press down firmly on both sides of the
module until the retention clip snaps
back into place on its own
repeat for the second slot on this side
then move over to the other side and put
in the additional two modules for
matchsticks are recommended for LGA 2011
CPUs for extra memory bandwidth now when
I first laid eyes on the Corsair 760 T
at CES 2014 this 4k build guide was
still a twinkle in my eye but I decided
at that moment that this case with
example airflow solid build quality and
out of this world looks was going to be
the case for it your story it's
available in black or this version and I
suppose it's obvious at this point which
one I like better prepare your case by
lifting both of the uniquely designed
acrylic side panels off their hinges and
stashing them somewhere safe where they
won't get scratched we're gonna be
replacing the stock fans later on with
some BitFenix Spectre Pro green LED fans
so now it's a good time to remove the
ones that come with the case just press
on the front fan filter to pop it off
and undo the four screws holding these
two fans in then put them aside for now
next take out the four screws at the
back that hold in the rear fan this one
we're gonna replace right away so just
align the fan with the three pin lead
coming out as close to the motherboard
tray as you can for easy cable
management later then put the anti
vibration mounts that come with the fan
in like so make sure you put the
hardware the screws that came with the
original fan safely in a train with all
of your other screws that were included
with your case so you're less likely to
lose them that way well okay well that
is to say unless you lose the whole tray
but either way if that happens there's
nothing I can do for you so this should
help most people the motherboard is
often a complicated choice even for
experienced techies there are the useful
features that matter and then there are
many others that are just pure marketing
fortunately for us this choice was made
relatively simple because a soos only
released three motherboards that were
truly optimized for intel's ivy bridge-e
LGA 2011 CPUs and only one of them is
less than $500 so we went with the x79
deluxe it's got all the stuff that
matters like AC Wi-Fi multi graphics
support strong CPU and RAM overclocking
support
automated fan control and robust build
quality without having to spend a
fortune on stuff that doesn't really
help your system run better from the box
you'll need the i/o shield the board
itself Wi-Fi antennas a couple straight
ended SATA cables the two-way SLI bridge
and the manual everything else you can
pretty much leave in the box until you
need it another time correctly orient
the i/o shield at the back of the case
then press firmly on each of the four
corners until they snap into place
Corsair kindly pre installs the
standoffs in their cases so just poke
the back of the board through the i/o
shield then lower it into place coarser
also kindly replaces the screw threads
of the middle standoff with a little
post that holds the motherboard there
for you while you do up the eight screws
around it here here here here here here
here and here for the front panel i/o
power and reset are not affected by
orientation so just check the spots for
them in the motherboard manual and plug
them in the power and drive activity
LEDs do need the positive pin to
correspond to the correct wire however
so if they're not working just try
flipping them around don't worry you
won't damage anything front USB three
only goes in one way thanks to the keyed
connector while front USB 2 and audio
are a little bit trickier just look
closely for the blocked off pin on the
cable and the missing pin on the header
the wire for that fan that we installed
in the back can be either managed behind
the fan frame or looped up to be shorter
than plugged into the nearest fan header
don't worry that there are four pin fan
headers on the board three pin fans will
work just fine on them now I'll be the
first to admit that I don't know enough
about electrical engineering to properly
evaluate a power supply on that level
and even if I did I don't have anything
resembling the necessary equipment to do
it anyway but what I do know is where to
find the best power supply reviews on
the Internet Johnny guru comm so why did
I choose the Coolermaster VA 50 power
supply well because I want rock-solid
efficiency a nice sexy ID nice cables on
a modular interface and one more thing I
want the power supply that had
absolutely nothing listed in the con
section at the end of it
you're a review and this story 850 watts
will be enough for our rig but if we
wanted some growing room the V 1000 is
an option as well we're using a modular
power supply so rather than worrying
about cables right off the bat we're
just going to slide the PSU into its
position fan side down at the bottom of
the case where there's a filtered intake
then use the four screws included in the
box to secure it at the back next to
grab the 24 pin cable a pin EPS cable to
PCI Express power cables a couple SATA
power cables and a 4-pin molex cable
this should be enough for us to power
the whole system plug the 24 pin and
eight pin EPS connectors into your
motherboard then route them behind the
motherboard tray through the nearest
holes put the others aside for now we
won't need them until later
strictly speaking SSDs don't affect the
frame rate at which your games will run
so my choice of a couple Intel 730
series SSDs and raid 0 might seem a
little strange to some but it's not a
purely practical thing for this rig the
reason I actually did this is that a
while ago when I did my personal rig
update I had a lot of people asking me
about running SSDs in raid zero for
extra performance and I've had to say
well hold on no don't do it the way that
I was doing it with eight refurbished
drives and all that and then the
inevitable follow-up question is ok then
what way would you recommend doing it so
to which I would reply well if you must
have raid 0 then this is how I would do
it Intel SSDs are legendarily reliable
on the 730 series specifically offers
outstanding performance consistency
something that's very important for raid
operation where the entire array will
slow down to the speed of the slowest
drive at any given moment Corsair
includes handy-dandy spring loaded SSD
mounts in the front of the case near the
right side panel so installing our SSDs
is literally a snap pop them in there
route the SATA data cables as neatly as
we can to the motherboard and then
double check the manual to ensure that
you're using a SATA 3 6 gigabit per
second connector that's running off of
the Intel chipset on this particular
board it's going to be the top ones then
grab a SATA power cable
from earlier carefully plug that into
each Drive without putting unnecessary
tension on the connector and route that
back to the power supply
now our GPU choice of dual GTX 780 T is
for a 4k gaming rig is likely to raise
some eyebrows but bear with me here for
a minute while I explain the choice
first up is why two cards I'm just still
not a strong believer in three and
four-way configurations I don't think
the scaling justifies the extra cost
heat and power consumption this dual
card config will be able to run even the
most demanding games today and needing
the high settings at 4k and while I can
you know compare screenshots
side-by-side and tell the difference
between high and ultra game settings
when things are actually in motion I
don't really find it that easy to tell
so I'm not gonna spend the time or money
just to turn that dial a little bit
higher another dial again because we're
only using two cards that we won't be
pranking for lack of necessary
horsepower is anti-aliasing but again
justification for that is I don't really
find it useful beyond 2 to 4 X max at
this kind of pixel density anyway next
up is the three gig frame buffer
limitation if you need more you're not
alone and for you there are other
options available such as dual r9 290
X's or dual Titan blacks I went with
this config because nothing that I'm
playing requires more video memory at
the moment and I'm willing to trade a
little bit of future-proof Ness for an
exclusive Nvidia feature that I use a
lot now many GPU features are mostly
fluffed to me
I don't use shadowplay or mantle but one
that I do use and a lot is game stream I
have an Nvidia shield and I actually do
a ton of my PC gaming in bed with my
shield I'm not willing to give that up
by going over to the red team and I'm
not willing to spend a bunch more money
on Titan blacks just to get that feature
and to have more memory especially if
the games I'm using don't need the extra
vram so given that these perform the
same if you don't need it 780ti as it is
lastly and this is uh probably half
serious and a half joke at this point I
am a dad now and dads everywhere know
that you don't waste power the
performance is similar between 2 to 9
X's in two 780ti s but the difference in
load power consumption is over a hundred
watts and on top of that much of that
extra power will be wasted as heat which
has to go somewhere and my gaming Den is
on the second floor of the south side of
my house where it's warm enough in the
summer without the extra heat so I hope
the takeaway was this it's a personal
choice not a condemnation of the other
available options that I went with 780ti
SLI if you don't have a shield and you
live in the Arctic Circle
then dual 290 X's might be a better
option for you and that's totally just
fine let's all just not fanboy out and
respect the different solutions work
better for different people with that
out of the way remove two PCI slot
covers that each correspond to one of
the PCIe 16x physical and electrical
slots on the motherboard and stash those
somewhere safe in case you ever need to
take a card out and need something to
fill the gap position each card over the
PCI Express slot and when it's aligned
firmly push it into place replace the
screws that you took out of the slot
covers then grab the PCIe power cables
from before and plug them into your GPUs
before routing them back to the power
supply it behind the motherboard tray
put the proverbial cherry on top by
installing your sli bridge and now it's
time to move on to cable management the
thing I like about the H 110 from
Corsair is that unlike other all-in-one
liquid coolers it is purely performance
oriented you give up better mounting and
software control compared to other
options but our six core CPU needs all
the help it can get especially if you
plan to do any overclocking so I paired
this cooler and positioned it at the
front intake this has two effects number
one is it allows the CPU to be cooled by
nice fresh air coming right into the
case and number two is that it lets me
leave the clean looking top on the 760 T
versus taking it off for mesh in order
to do a top radiator install we do
sacrifice slightly higher temperatures
for the rest of the components in the
case but it's really not that big of a
deal start by locating the correct
mounting hardware for LGA 2011 in the
box if you've got good eyes you can do
this pretty
easily by looking for the ones with the
more coarse threading if you need some
help check the manual orient the plastic
fillers so the hole is closer to the
outside of the hold-down bracket and put
the screws through they should stay in
place the cooler includes thermal
compound so you won't need to apply your
own so all you need to do is secure the
hold down plate with the included
plastic ring then screw in all four of
the mounting holes into the back plate
that is included on all LGA 2011 boards
corners lightly then all the way to
avoid applying uneven pressure to your
CPU next we need to clear space at the
front of the case by removing the front
three and a half inch drive cage undo
the two screws on the bottom of the case
then just pop it out we are only using
SSDs in this build so we could remove
the second cage if we wanted but if we
leave that in it gives us three base for
future drive expansion position the
front 140 millimeter fans using the long
screws included with your radiator then
being careful not to accidentally put
any strain on your memory modules or
anything else position the radiator
carefully behind them and start
threading the screws in if it takes a
couple of tries to get it aligned don't
worry it's a bit tricky just be gentle
and be patient plug the fan connectors
into the nearest ports available on the
motherboard then plug the pump connector
on the CPU block into the CPU header on
your motherboard
moving on to some last-minute cable
management it's just a matter of laying
everything down flat enough that we can
close the side panels easily without any
interference something that's a little
bit more difficult on this case than it
is on some other ones due to that plexi
back panel that will easily flex and bow
out if you have anything that's stacked
up too high the good news is that you've
got almost a full inch of clearance back
here so even things like a 24-pin
connector are easy to hold in place I
recommend using twist ties instead of
zip ties and if you just built a
computer which you just did you should
have some they come wrapped around
things like your power supply cables in
the box then use those to tie down to
the little cable management loops on the
back of the case because they're
reusable and
little bit more convenient to remove
because you don't have to use snippers
to get them off I think that's pretty
much it stash the unneeded wires for the
fan controller up in the top left we
didn't end up using that because we're
gonna be using our motherboards on board
fan control so that means we don't even
have to plug in the SATA power for it
and looks not bad Hey so the towers
pretty much done now but we still need
some things before this bad boy will
fire up now when it comes to peripherals
there's a lot of personal taste involved
so take all of these recommendations
with a grain of salt
the one thing I think we can all agree
on though is that when it comes to a 4k
gaming rig you are going to need a 4k
monitor there aren't a ton of options
out there I mean up until very recently
for a high quality color accurate you
know reasonably gaming capable monitor
the PQ 321 Q that's like $3,000 was
pretty much all there was or one of the
other ones using the same panel but just
recently Samsung released a value priced
TN base but still using a pretty decent
panel you 28 D 590 D so that's a 4k
monitor they came in and basically went
okay yeah it's only a single tile so
it's you're not gonna have to contend
with any you know multiple tile you know
stuttering issues or anything like that
but the bad news about that one and it
was a deal-breaker for a lot of people
was that it has no base amount and the
included stem is really not that great
but there's good news two days before we
finished filming this segment right here
a sis's PB 287 Q based on the same panel
but with a better height adjustable
pivotable you know everything about
stand and a vase amount is now in our
hands and holy crap this is pretty much
the one to go for right now for a 4k
gamer that well wants to game at 4k for
our mouths we went with the Corsair m/45
it's the one that I'm using now
personally it's got what's known as a
perfect sensor that is to say there's no
forced acceleration or other weirdness
and the DPI is
high enough for it to perform well at 4k
something you do have to consider
because with such a high resolution
monitor you're gonna want to have faster
mouse movements in order to have it seem
like a normal speed for our keyboard
choice we went with a ducky shine 3 it's
something that I've recommended quite a
few times before it uses Cherry MX which
is whatever color that you like and
comes with a variety of different colors
of backlight as well as some really cool
lighting effects this will hold out for
us as long as we're still waiting for
Corsairs RGB backlit Cherry MX keyboard
for our gaming headset we're going with
the audio technica ath ag-1 it's
basically a high quality closed back
headphone with very good noise isolation
with an absolutely outstanding
microphone attached to it with the
elastic band mod it's comfortable
lightweight and aside from being
extremely expensive basically the ideal
headset although since I scripted this
video we actually had the mod mic 4.0
land in our studio and I've spent a
little bit of time with it and holy crap
guys the whole option of just buying
headphones and attaching a mod night to
it might be a lot more feasible in the
future with that new microphone so guys
peripherals are changing all the time
but at least this hopefully gives you a
starting point press delete' while
booting up the system for the first time
to go into the UEFI BIOS load optimized
defaults to just get everything kind of
mostly set up change your memory to XMP
mode set your fans to quiet mode one by
one then configure your onboard SATA
controller to raid mode that's the
basics but there's lots of other stuff
in here you can play with if you want to
tweak in tune
I'd recommend starting at Linus tech
tips comm if you want to get some help
from our fantastic community for now
press f10 to reboot then press f6 when
prompted to configure your two drives in
raid we're using raid zero for maximum
speed with all the default settings then
put the system aside for now use the
guide that we made a while ago to create
a bootable USB Drive then reboot while
mashing f8 repeatedly to get into the
boot device selection menu where you'll
pick your USB Drive once the setup
process
for Windows has begun it's basically a
matter of clicking next until you land
on the Windows desktop at the desktop
grab the latest drivers off the
manufacturer websites for each of your
components rather than relying on the
ones that are on the disks in the boxes
then hit up ninite.com for your
essential free software you can choose
from all kinds of useful stuff including
antivirus installers alternative web
browsers and great system utilities just
select all the things you want and it'll
install them all automatically without
the bloatware that can sometimes be
included with these kinds of apps you
might also want to run some basic
utilities to make sure your system is
running correctly I recommend I 264 mem
test 86 prime95 and some good
old-fashioned gaming to ensure that
everything is hunky-dory with all that
done it's time to fire up some games and
benchmark the system so we took some of
the most demanding games in our test
suite and ran them at the highest
settings that we could while still
achieving smooth playable frame rates at
4k absolutely fantastic everything is
running at a nice comfortable
temperature and we stayed within the
limits of our 850 watt power supply I
consider this machine a huge success but
the journey is not over it'll be another
product generation or two before IPs 4k
displays with better color accuracy
reach affordable levels and reasonably
priced graphics cards are able to drive
modern games at 4k but if nothing else
what we achieve today was a glimpse into
the future of PC gaming and let me tell
you guys the future looks pretty darn
good
while you guys enjoy some glamour
footage of our finished system that we
worked really hard on I want to take
another opportunity to extend a huge
thank you to Intel for making this video
possible these built guides are
incredibly time consuming for us to
produce and without sponsors like Intel
to foot the bill we wouldn't be able to
set aside the week plus that it takes
for my team to script film and edit them
so thanks Intel for supporting the DIY
folks who want high-quality guides that
enable them to confidently build their
own pcs I hope you guys enjoyed this
video as much as we enjoyed me
can you hit that subscribe button now if
you haven't already and until next time
peace out
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.