hello welcome to tennis tech tips this
is happening today I'm doing a pill guy
that I invent a new thermal paste that I
can actually use it to apply directly to
the circuit let's see so you just do
this very very gently and just put the
CPU on you doing a build guide yeah I'm
doing okay
you know Linus said those were dead
right you know Linus is dead right you
sure you want to go with that one
it's that antenna stick tubes okay near
my near my eye I'll go I'll go
but please subscribe if you want that
mystic there's more hmm
yeah okay I guess with Linus out of the
picture everybody wants to get on in
front of the camera but you know it has
been over a year since our last PC build
guide and I know you guys really want
them the problem is that we have
sponsors before but guess what
- isn't here today I've got the company
credit card and it's high time we fixed
that so let's get cracking to build the
best bang for buck 1440p 60 FPS gaming
experience we can mustard without
triggering the fraud alert he won't know
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now before we get our hands dirty we
should first make sure that our hands
are clean and Static free we can do the
form with some soap but the latter will
require being grounded now some veteran
builders will tell you that if your
environment is humid ESD isn't a great
danger especially with today's thicker
PCBs and protection circuitry and this
is true to some extent so in a pinch
simply touching something metallic
that's got a path the ground regularly
will do but if you're building a PC
you're going to want to invest in an ESD
solution now they aren't expensive and
we don't recommend continuing without
them when you do use any SD strap or ESD
mat bear in mind that they must be
connected to ground via an outlet or
something metallic with a path to ground
in order to be effective noticing a
pattern it's all about the path to
ground no ground then there's no ESD
safety as for our other tools our
handy-dandy multi bit screwdriver is our
best friend
we'll use this magnetic parts tray for
screw management magnetic project mats
also work great here and you can even
use a pill sword at a pretty good effect
that takes care of the pre-build prep
and tools but for cable management and
you are going to manage your cables
right the most useful tools we have are
velcro tines like these handy-dandy
Linus tech tips brand ones a pair of
side cutters like these and a handful of
tweezers oh sorry
I mean zip ties needle nose pliers can
help when using these in tight spaces
but you know they're not strictly
necessary because as you'll see most of
our zip ties are going to be quite
accessible now as always it's a good
idea to plug in all of your components
for a dry run before you fully assemble
your build now this is a good way to
troubleshoot any issues that may arise
such as an incompatibility or a DOA
component so you use your motherboard
box as a case it's non conductive and
usually sturdy enough to handle the
weight of the board cooler and GPU so if
your machine powers on and transmits to
the display you're ready to move on when
it comes to CPUs we're spoiled for
choice thanks to ambient Intel playing
tit for tat over the last year or so for
us the best value for our money is the
rise in v 2600 9x from AMD which unlike
Intel's price
the core i5 eighty four hundred or
ninety four hundred F can be overclocked
it also has twice the number of threads
which newer games like ApS legends can
take full advantage of so with that in
mind anybody steals the show at this
price compared to their own previous gen
Rison five 1600 X the 2600 is slightly
faster on average thanks to precision
boost - and typically has more
overclocking Headroom for a price
difference of just about six dollars
retail to install the CPU lift up the
retention arm on your motherboard line
up the triangle on the chip which is
right about there with the triangle on
the motherboard and gently yeah there we
go place it into the socket it should
just drop in if the pins are aligned
correctly so just visually make sure
that the CPU is flush with the socket
before pushing the retention arm down to
lock it in place you may also join to
gently press down on the chip while you
do this to ensure it doesn't shift
around but gravity really should do the
job now our CPU comes with its own
cooler and ease own wraith stealth and
we'll be using it here to save money for
more than a mild overclock we'll want to
replace it but for now we can go ahead
and install it by first removing these
two plastic clips on the motherboard
which helpfully just use standard
Phillips head screws
once that's done remove the coolers
plastic shield covering the thermal
compound if necessary this one just kind
of fell off line up with the socket like
so the thinner gauge here should go
towards the top and then we just screw
it into place where those plastic clips
used to be now you don't want to
immediately tighten these screws because
if you do then it'll make screwing the
other ones in more difficult for one and
two you're gonna want to try and use an
X pattern to evenly distribute the
thermal compound here from here all we
need to do is plug its fan cable into
the CPU fan header on our motherboard
like so and our CPU and cooler are now
fully installed onto the memory now fast
memory is something that Rison like me
loves to chew on but because fast memory
gets expensive quickly we're primarily
focused on gaming performance there are
diminishing returns at the time of
writing G skills Agis ddr4 3000 16
gigabyte kit is the sweet spot based on
lots of
available as it's priced in around the
brain you typically find 21 33 or 2,400
kits unfortunately since it was oh boy
okay that's gonna make it in
unfortunately since it was backordered
when we went to buy it and we had to get
the parts in time for this video we had
to settle for this g.skill ripjaws 5 at
a similar price if he wanted to grab a
30 200 megahertz kit though we'd be
paying that rather $25 with a privilege
for not much real world game if you've
never installed ran before then good
news it's super easy but there's one
thing you want to keep in mind if you
want to take advantage of dual channel
and with rising you probably will you'll
need to make sure that you install your
memory in alternating slots so 2 & 4
just pull these tabs back line up the
little notch on the memory with the
notch in the slot and insert now you'll
need to push down a little bit until you
hear a little click and on the other
side as well you'll take a little bit of
force but not a whole lot you don't
really need to worry about breaking
anything but you might feel like you're
putting too much force in so let's do
that with the other stick and just
visually inspect that we can't see the
pins and that everything is flush now
we've been plugging stuff into this
thing but we haven't really gone over
what it is yet we've gone with the
asrock be 450m pro for an inexpensive
micro ATX AMD motherboard with 4 Ram
slots and crucially the ability to
overclock our CPU now because the B 450
M pro 4 happens to have decent VRMs for
power delivery we should be able to
obtain reasonable results with our risin
5 2600 otherwise it's actually pretty
unremarkable with no official support
for SLI just crossfire and fine array of
i/o that includes a VGA port DVI port
and HDMI port that are only useful for
an APU not for us
now to be clear we could have gotten
away with a $50 board instead of a $70
one if we didn't care about overclocking
support but where's the fun in that we
are going to use this guy we literally
chose the cheapest case available
okay fine I'll talk about it this is the
rose well SRM 0/1 a micro ITX case
that's about what you'd expect for its
common sale price of twenty dollars
difficult to open box for one doesn't
weigh anything what is going on here so
for $20 you get a case that weighs
nothing with very data aesthetics it's
got a single underside dust filter
limited cable management a single front
USB 3.0 port on the side with the rest
be 2.0 this thing is not going to be
easy or fun to build in but that's not
the point of this build is it the point
is to get the best bang for the buck and
if it doesn't improve performance we're
just going to have to live with it
thankfully we do have thumb screws one
thing that it does have is this drive
tray and guess that is what it is so if
we take out these two screws here one on
the bottom and one towards the top like
so
haha it swings out of place so yeah we
can get a GPU in here if you want to
which we'll have to so this gives us all
the room we'll need
although just barely now before we move
on we need to get the case ready to
actually work in first we'll need to use
these thumb screws to take off both side
panels yes the rear one too and yes they
actually gave us thumb screws on the
rear with that done we'll remove the
front panel so we need to grip this
little slot down here and just pull
outward there's no latch it should just
pop right off and from here all we need
to do is just pull these cables through
gently
they aren't held in with anything
they're just rotted right through now
there's not much in the way of cable
management on this front panel there's
nothing particularly special about it
but it does have these screws with wide
rims that hold everything into place so
you're gonna want to take this one off
next to the LEDs and that'll free them
up but we don't want to remove them what
we want to do is take these for the
power and reset sway
and route them down with them and from
here we'll want to take the LED wires
and pull them through here until they're
about the same length and loop slack
like that what we can do from here is
replace that screw and that has all of
our front panel connections at pretty
much the perfect length to reach our
motherboard as for the USB 2.0 front
panel audio and USB 3.0 cables these are
relatively easy to figure out what we
can do is just push them through here
and then out through this cable
management port for the power supply can
be a little bit tricky because these
wires are thick but once we get it three
fills out our front panel back through
and close it back up should just snap on
once you get the posts aligned and there
we go so why did we go through the
effort of doing that so doing it this
way means that our cables have just
enough slack go where they need to go
without having any extraneous length
that we need to deal with later on for
cable management which will be a chore
speaking of the motherboard we can't
celebrate yet because we still need to
install that and this is where we run
into our first real problem with
cheaping out on the case if we look in
this baggie here there are actually only
six brass standoffs included there are
no other stand-ups and our motherboard
has eight mount points that means we're
going to have to choose where we need
the most support so we need to determine
where and this is why people don't like
wearing ESD straps in this case it looks
like we're going to need the most
support in the top left the top right
everything in the middle because that's
where our GPU is gonna go and probably
the bottom middle here where a front
panel connects in and unfortunately that
means the rest of it is going to have
paying loose which means the bottom
right here bottom left
and the top-middle are gonna sag a
little bit if you try to put any
pressure on them
so with that mapped out in the standoffs
go now if you do decide to use a
screwdriver for these be very careful
because these are made of cheap brass
and this is very thin steel it will
strip and you're going to have a bad
time better to just use your fingers to
tighten them no I probably should do
this with a screwdriver once we're done
with that nonsense we won't forget our
IO shield which snaps into place from
the inside but we want to make sure that
it's oriented correctly in this case the
audio ports will be on the bottom now we
can finally get our motherboard
installed for realsies now a pro tip for
anyone building in an older design case
like this install your front panel
connectors now while the motherboard is
still outside the case this little lip
down here is going to cause so many
problems if you try to do it afterwards
now you'll want to check your
motherboards manual just to see where
everything plugs in but typically the
power switch is going to go into the top
right the reset switch will go right
beneath that and then hard drive power
that'll go next to the reset switch to
the left
positive usually is to the left which I
believe that's what the silkscreen says
and we'll do the same for the power
switch your power LED alright so with
our front panel installed let's get our
motherboard in so we'll get it down
under here hold this out of the way so
it doesn't get trapped underneath and
line it up with our i/o shields so if we
align this laterally you'll see the
brass standoffs show through which will
tell you that you have all your
standoffs in the right positions so
since we can see them we can count them
to make sure we have them all in the
right spots so we have one two three
four five six so with the standoffs
applied to the screw holes we'll take
these fine threaded screws
screw it down starting at the center
keep everything aligned don't mind me
I'm just gonna keep screwing these in
for the rest of time yeah I don't duh
this is such a pain do you remember how
I said you should plug in the front
panel before yeah yeah put the board in
I forgot to put in these front panel
connectors II oh yeah and then I forgot
my own advice about lifting this stupid
cable out of the way now let's get those
screws back in okay that was a lot of
work just to get the motherboard in but
the fun's only just begun because we
haven't gotten to the power supply yet
just rethinking my life decisions right
now anyway you might expect that we
cheaped out on the power supply tube but
it's actually quite important for a
variety of reasons the most important of
which being the longevity and stability
of your computer's components for that
reason we set a stipulation that the
power supply we chose would be 80 plus
bronze or better capable of 500 watts or
higher continuous output and come with a
five-year warranty at minimum the least
expensive power supply that takes all of
these boxes is the corsair CX 550 which
given black of modular connections means
our phase choice is about to take our
proverbial bus because unlike most
modern cases the SRM 0 1 from Rosewell
mounts the power supply up top which
means not only do we have the line it up
manually but even though it does have a
lip for the power supply to rest on
we still need to hold it in place while
we screw it in or it could fall I want
to go home it's probably obvious but we
can't actually get this power supply in
here until we get these cables routed so
let's do that
this little hole in the back here is
quite convenient for routing our power
supply campus oh and by the way because
this power supply mounts up here it acts
as an exhaust that's actually what it's
designed for back in the day so we're
gonna want the pan on the bottom yeah so
yeah I just got off screw it in then
power supplies in so this mess is why we
couldn't install the power supply lying
flat and it's also why we couldn't
install the global VPS connector while
the motherboard was outside of the case
like we normally recommend we could have
maybe install the power supply first but
that wouldn't really have made our lives
much easier so let's go about routing
these things shall we the MM ATX cable
is pretty easy just go into this little
hole here thankfully the 24 pin just has
these extra 4 pins here it's the 20+4
ATX connector which helps in managing
these cables just make sure they're
clipped together and push it down until
it clicks alright so now for the 12-volt
EPS connector and that's gonna go
through this little hole here once it's
through snap it together then line it up
which can be a little bit tricky
thankfully we've got plenty of clearance
so with it in slot push down until you
hear the click now the next thing we're
gonna want to do is pull all of the
slack from inside the case to this side
of the case and that will leave as
little as possible
for us to deal with on the inside we'll
also probably never need these cables
here at least not right now so we can
push those back through if I had been
thinking ahead I would have just not
routed them through but
yeah that's not what we're doing today
so since we'll basically never hang
these we can tie them off and leave them
in this conveniently located five and a
quarter inch Bay that will also never
use because who owns an optical drive
anymore so into this little drive bay
these go and we never have to look at
them again
speaking of storage we chose the WD blue
250 gigabyte m2 module for its low
profile and low cost now I know you can
get cheaper SSDs but this was the
cheapest that included that D Ram cache
which is extremely important for
performance as we've seen in the past
now to install the module we're going
had to find the m2 slot on the
motherboard for our drive the problem is
that the one in the center of the board
here labeled ultra m2 is only for nvme
meaning that our SATA SSD needs to go in
the other slot which is conveniently
located down at the bottom right of the
board so we'll line up the notches on
the end of the module with the key on
the slot and it goes should go right in
we won't see any more pins so we can
then take this retaining screw screw it
down and we're nice and secure you'll
notice that it covers up the bottom
middle motherboard screw which is why we
didn't install it before now 250
gigabytes of solid-state storage isn't
enough for everything we want to run on
this machine
I mean individual games commonly can be
up to 50 gigabytes or larger these days
I've seen some that are like closer to a
hundred and that's why we've got this 2
terabyte Seagate Barracuda
which critically is a 7200 rpm drive
meaning that while it's more
power-hungry than the slower 5400 rpm
options we'll be loading our games more
quickly plus since it's an older model
it's just as cheap now we've got a
couple of options for mounting the drive
and neither are very good the first
option is to just install it into the
bottom of the five and quarter-inch Bay
where the guide rail is provided but
unless you have a long neck screw driver
you're just not going to get a solid
mount with that in mind we'll be
mounting two
this yes I am serious now the manual
says to mount the drives here with their
connectors facing the rear of the case
like this but we'll get much cleaner
cable management if we mount it like
this with the connectors facing the
front we can hide those cables through
the front panel or via the five and a
quarter inch bay in case you're
wondering yes we could mount the drive
or second drive to this bottom half here
but that would interfere with our GPUs
PCI Express connectors when we go to
install them as you'll see speaking of
connectors now it's time to cable manage
this thing we've been kind of doing that
the whole time but now that the drive is
securely mounted it's time to tidy up
the cabling in preparation for the GPU
which will be the last thing that we
install here and of course we need to
get the drive wired up and yeah you know
if I were thinking more clearly I
probably would have done the cable
management before the drive but since
our velcro ties are actually too big for
the loops that are provided here on the
case oh go ahead and run these now and
then cable management then afterwards
just to tidy things up thankfully we
only have the one that we need to run
all I need this to be hanging out here
either I'm not very good at this
remember that SATA cable chain that we
left out at this point this is where we
need it going to cross it over like this
with one of my handy-dandy tweezers clip
this off or not there we go and now
you've got just enough length here OOP
that hurt to feed it down through this
hole here it's a little difficult to see
there we go as a bonus we can fish this
up through that seen hole and we can
send it out through here but that we can
go back down here with the rest of the
front panel cables
and plug directly into the motherboard
then we can close it back up
now we have a fully connected drive with
basically no mess so taking care not to
cross over any cables we'll slide our
USB 3.0 header into here and plug it
directly into the board like so I kind
of hate those connectors but we will
have to pull the slack back out but
gently because these connectors have a
tendency to either break or pull loose
with very little force so with that done
now we can start tying these up now this
step isn't terribly important but it's
important to me
flatten out a little bit all right so we
need both of these but we only need one
of them to have all of their connectors
so we can tie one of these back just for
the sake of neatness so we can fish both
of these through here then I can tie
this down like so now I need to figure
out what to do with this guy that'll at
least keep it in place more or less
although I would really like another
cable management point now one thing you
might notice is that it actually isn't
flush with the sides of the case but
that's not actually a bad thing because
our panel has this nice big bump on it
which lets us just slide it on okay and
the front looks pretty clean too which
is a good thing because now we need to
install our graphics card now our goal
for this build is a 1440p 60 capable
machine so for that we're turning to the
geforce r-tx 20 70 gaming OC card from
gigabyte it's about $12 or 3% more than
the standard gaming card but it's cloth
tick with 7% higher which means it's a
trade-off worth making in the pursuit of
absolute best price to performance at
this budget anyway and yeah let's get
this in to install our GPU we're first
going to need to break off these tabs
that come
the PCI Express slots now this is a
hallmark of Cheaper cases and nothing to
be concerned about you can just gently
stick a screwdriver in here like so to
kind of get it out of position and then
you can just kind of bend it up and down
a few times like this and then just
break right off now we already have most
of ours free because I did do a test fit
in this but for you guys you're going to
have to pry these free
so once the slots are free it's time for
the main event now the first thing we
should do is make sure that the tab on
the back of the slot is in the down
position it was already there but if
it's up just push it down that will
unlock the retention clip for our GPU
which can go in like so now one more
thing to note this case has basically no
room back here install your PCI Express
power connectors first before you do
anything else
now angling this in is a little bit
tricky in a case like this but once you
have it aligned all you need to do is
give it a little press until you hear
the click now what we need to do is
screw in our retention screws now once
you've tidied up the PCI Express cables
and gotten everything nice and organized
it's time to take a step back and admire
your work it's been rough but we're
almost done it's time to go ahead and
slide the side panels back on and secure
them into place with the thumb screws
like so so now we'll plug everything in
and wait the longest few seconds of our
lives
it's powered on
bullet post Oh keyboard lit up okay as
Rock helpfully as Rock shows you exactly
which key to mash so we just mash delete
or you can hit f2 now most of this stuff
in the BIOS will probably want to leave
it defaults for now but primarily what
we want to do here is enable XMP which
can be done by going over to the OC
Tweaker then going down to XMP setting
and choosing X and P 2.0 profile 1 and
we should see that our Ram is now
running at the proper speed which is
great so we will go ahead and do Save
Changes and exits all right looks like
Windows is installed I won't go into the
step-by-step on how to do that but for
those of you who are stuck and do want
to install Windows grab an 8 gigabyte or
larger USB key and put it into another
computer that's already running Windows
from here you can download the media
creation tool from Microsoft which can
automatically set up a Windows installer
on your USB key once that's done just
plug it in reboot it should
automatically start the Windows setup
process and once that's done you should
already have all of your drivers
installed out-of-the-box but you'll want
the latest Nvidia driver along with the
AMD chipset driver which you can grab
from their respective websites now as
for how this thing performs well I've
already loaded up the drive with a bunch
of tools and games to test drive so
let's give it from spinning jelly I
guess ok yeah that's about what I'd
expect Linus likes doom let's use a
shadow the Tomb Raider and run the
benchmark yeah that's pretty good high
60s 1440p highest up above 70 now it
probably dropped down to like the low
60s at minimum yeah Wow ok that's
actually more impressive than I thought
it would be so there you have it an
unassuming box
well wired and filled with nothing but
the best bang for buck components you
can get for $1,000 or less absolutely no
fluff this plate makes magnet mounted
metal prints that are durable
and don't require any power tools in
order to hang them they've got over a
quarter million different artworks
spanning a bunch of different styles and
influences and with their easy magnetic
mounting there's no holes in the wall
and you can easily replace them we plant
ten trees for every display purchased
and you can use code Ltd to save 15%
through the link in the video
description thanks for watching guys
this video sucked you know what to do
but it was awesome get subscribed hit
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best of both worlds yeah we win
Gladys is retiring forcibly
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