you've been doing a lot of waiting in
2017 waiting for rise in 7:00 to launch
waiting for am bizzle to address the
issues that plagued the aforementioned
rise and launch and then waiting again
for rise in five and that wasn't even
the end of it let's face it there has
been a rise in learning curve for
everyone for developers for AMD
themselves and especially for consumers
if only someone would make an easy step
by step build guide so you could build
the best possible rise in gaming rig at
a great price
Corsairs light lube fans feature 16
independent LEDs in every fan and are
engineered for low noise operation
without sacrificing performance check
them out at the link below to start with
a safe static free workstation with an
anti-static ankle strap is a must then
with me as always are my multi-bit
screwdriver my magnetic parts tray a
pair of side cutters a pair of needle
nose pliers and a pair of pants I'm just
kidding about that last one
I don't wear pants when I build
computers and you don't have to either
next whether you're wearing pants or not
verify that your system posts or outputs
to the display using your motherboard
box as a free non conductive test bench
and your screwdriver to short out the
power button pins like so we've
identified the Rison v 1600 non ex
variant as the best performance per
dollar cpu in the Rison lineup for
gaming you'll be able to play most
modern titles with slick settings
without the CPU being a bottleneck and
right now it costs 20% less than the
1600 X while performing only 10% worse
once you factor in the value of the
included cooler and Oliver Eisen chips
are unlocked for overclocking so we can
also show you how to get some extra
mileage out of it if you're into that
sort of thing hold the CPU by the edges
and identify the corner with the gold
triangle align back corner with the
corner of the socket that also has a
triangle lift up the retention arm place
the CPU into the socket with no force at
all it should just drop in then check to
ensure the CPU is all the way in and
lower the retention arm again now the
Rison v 1600 does come with an included
Wraith cooler which will be enough for
anyone who's looking to run at stock
speeds but for the best overclocking
experience we recommend something
a little beefier our master liquid light
120 from coolermaster was only 40 bucks
it comes with an AM 4 mounting bracket
and it should give us a little bit more
overclocking Headroom start by removing
the rear case fan and setting it aside
then use these long screws put them
through the back of the case through the
included fan blowing towards the back
and with the fan lead pointed up and
then screw them into the radiator this
way it's easier to clean your rad if it
gets clogged up with dust next remove
the plastic film keeping an eye out for
any residue that will need to be removed
with alcohol before proceeding then
attach these a.m. for compatible
brackets to the block like so before
placing a brown rice green sized dollop
of the included thermal paste on the top
of the CPU finally hook each end over
the motherboards included mounting heads
firmly tighten the thumbscrews and plug
the fan lead into the white header here
your pump can go into the optional black
header that's right next to it the RAM
decision is a little more complicated on
rise than than you might be used to but
to sum it up you can expect the best
results when running a dual channel
configuration that means 2 or 4 dims and
at frequencies of at least 26 66
megahertz with 3200 mega Hertz
recommended for the best performance as
for the cast latency there are no
special considerations for rise in here
but lower is better
we chose 2 8 gig sticks of course
there's vengeance lpx 3000 megahertz Ram
which is a good balance of price and
performance and happens to be on AMD's
list of supported memory pull back the
tabs on the 2 grey Ram slots then
position each dim so the notch on the
bottom lines up with the notch in the
socket then press firmly until the tabs
on the ends snap back into place on
their own you can repeat this procedure
if you have an additional kit but as
always a to dim configuration is
recommended for better stability
for our case we chose the ever-popular
p400s from fan Texas Eclipse line the
p400s is $10 more than the P 400 but
comes with S sound dampeners on all of
the panels a 3-speed fan controller
button on the front and top covers
should you choose not to exhaust air at
the top of the case another 10 dollars
can be saved by issuing the sexy
tempered glass as acrylic window and
solid body designs are also available
but everyone knows tempered glass gives
you more FPS okay I'm sorry I'll stop
that now pull the tempered glass side
panel off and use two hands to stash it
back in the box for safekeeping you can
set the thumbscrews aside with the rest
of the included hardware next remove the
opposite side panel by removing these
two screws and sliding the panel towards
the rear this case offers lots of
options for air flow with air filters on
the top front and bottom panels but
we're gonna focus on pulling air in from
the front of the case and exhausting it
out the back the front panel has space
for three 120 millimeter fans or two 140
s so we're gonna use both of the cases
included fans to draw air in here an AMD
rising CPU can be paired with any one of
four chipsets X 370 is the top-end one
with support for SLI and is the one used
by the Asus X 370 Pro our motherboard of
choice but - this is a bang for your
buck build why didn't you get a
performance tear be 350 board like the
Asus prime B 350 for half the price it
would still be overclockable and only
has two fewer PCIe lanes than this one
well my friends that was a very long
question but you definitely could do
that the thing is we wanted to benchmark
our system in both single graphics card
and SLI configurations to see how they
stack up from a performance per dollar
standpoint
so we'll provide parts lists for both
options at the end of the video press
firmly on the four corners of the
motherboard shield until they snap into
place then our case has integrated ATX
motherboard standoffs so all we need to
do is hold the motherboard by the
heatsink and set it in place like so
before using the cases included m3
screws to fasten it down pro tip if you
went with a modular power supply plug
the eight pin power connector in now to
make your life a little easier later on
also now's the time to do the front
power and reset switches and the drive
activity LED here as well as front USB 3
here and audio over here to power our
rig we chose the EVGA supernova 650 g2
it's fully modular for a clean look it's
gold certified and you can find one for
under a hundred bucks if you're opting
to use just one graphics card though
instead of SLI you could get away with a
500 watt non modular power supply like
this one for just over half the price
the power supply basement in our case is
a little cramped so we're going to
connect all of our cables while the
power supply is still free you'll need
the 8 pin connector that you ran before
the 24 pin connector that goes in here
one or two VGA cables that you'll route
through here and a SATA cable that you
can leave hanging out the back here
slide the power supply into its cage
with the fan facing down it'll draw
fresh air in through the bottom air
filter and exhausted out the rear of the
chassis then fasten the power supply in
place using the included 632 screws when
it comes to storage there are a couple
of different approaches to getting the
best value on the lower end hybrid
solutions can be great but a Seagate
hybrid drive is a little basic for the
budget that we targeted here and
obtained is not available for AMD at
this time so we went with a Western
Digital blue internal SSD this one here
happens to have a terabyte of space but
it's for illustrative purposes only the
250 gig SKU at under a hundred bucks is
probably your best
then for another $50 you can get another
terabyte of hard drive space for your
Steam library if that spins your
platters slide the SSD sled upward to
detach it from the case then mount the
SSD by screwing four of these fasteners
through the side of the sled connect the
SATA power cable that you left hanging
before and then route the data cable
through this grommet attaching the right
angle end to the motherboard for
graphics we're using one or two EVGA
superclocked two gtx ten 70s now you
wouldn't know it by the confusing name
but is in the middle of EVGA s product
line up with higher bass and boost clock
frequencies compared to stock and
they're smarter icx cooler to save some
power so if you're into overclocking a
higher bin card like this will tend to
overclock a touch better so start by
removing the cases PCI Express slot
covers and aligning the first graphics
card carefully with both the
motherboards PCIe slot and the slots on
the case making sure that the tab on the
PCIe slot is open push the card in
firmly until the tab snaps shut then put
the case screws back in do this again
for the second card if applicable and
plug the PCI Express power connectors
that we cable managed earlier now we
chose to run two cables one to each card
to avoid using unsightly adapters if
this is a huge concern for you and you
went for the modular power supply option
you could get a cable mod cable kit but
it would add some cost finally again if
applicable grab the sli bridge from your
motherboard box and connect the two
video cards together orientation doesn't
matter if you have an extra 35 bucks in
your pocket you can give your rig a
facelift by investing in a high
bandwidth sli bridge like this one just
don't expect much of a performance bump
cable management shouldn't be a big
problem here the motherboard tray and
the side panel are both completely
opaque so whatever mess you make will be
in
the case comes with velcro straps to pin
everything down inline clips to hold
your fan leads and you can even use the
SSD sled to pin cables to the inside
edge for the keyboard and mouse we're
showing off our system with the
wallet-friendly neon k 51 and M 57 from
Rosewill but realistically you can use
any keyboard and mouse you want maybe
check out one of our recent budget
peripheral roundups right up there for
more options as for the monitor we're
suggesting something along the lines of
the Acer xf a 240 it's a 144 Hertz so
you'll be able to take advantage of one
or even two of these graphics cards also
it's only around 200 bucks now on any
newer platform it's important to
download the latest UEFI bios from the
manufacturers website and flash your
motherboard using a USB drive our next
step then is to use Microsoft's tool to
create a bootable USB Drive and then
reboot the system while mashing f8
immediately my keyboard is invisible to
get to the boot device selection menu
where you'll pick your drive once the
Windows setup process has begun it's
basically just a matter of hitting next
until you land on the desktop once there
you can get the latest drivers for your
chipset audio networking etc off the
Asus website then head over to invidious
page for the latest graphics drivers
speaking of graphics
how does she game well pretty darn well
except I may have lost the like I'm not
gonna use the word argument let's go
with debate that I had with James when I
said we should include SLI if we're
trying to get the absolute best FPS per
dollar
because barely any of our test titles
benefited in any significant way though
it should be noted that scaling was
better at 4k resolution so ultimately
whether 1 or 2 is best for you is going
to depend on what you're playing and how
most people are gonna stick with the
cheaper version of the build so putting
it all together though we're coming at
just over $2,000 for the SLI version
including everything all the peripherals
and all that and 1430
for the non SLI version on account of
the cheaper motherboard and power supply
and of course one less graphics card and
then finally if you already have a
monitor in peripherals the tower alone
is 1165 for what is based on our
benchmarks a fantastic gaming experience
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