Gadgetory

an eagle-eyed viewer spotted some tjo seven parts in one of my recent videos and asked when the next personal rig update is coming it is finally here I'm sorry guys I've been super busy and I just haven't had much time to work on the project but I do have some updates so sleeving is progressing here's the 24 pin sorry there's an extra piece of heat shrink here that will do it the other end when I'm done with it but yeah sleeving is progressing so I'm ending up with cables that are going to look pretty darn sharp once I Kate once I bind them all together and run them in a way that is that is reasonably nice here's my here's my 8 pin for the top of the motherboard you can see I've done two cables per sleeve which I personally think looks pretty good I haven't really seen that done before but sure someone's done it but yeah so they're those ones will go around there somehow I've also got my RMA back for my t-virus reservoir so I will be integrating that into this build somehow you can see I'm experimenting with some fittings over here so this is my old Big Bang xpower motherboard this is not the one I'm using just because my system is running on my test bench down here so I don't want to I don't want to tear it apart just yet but I think I'm going to have to in order to test fit everything before I send so you can see the paint's been stripped off of off of these parts before I send everything in to be powder-coated because I'm going to have to make whatever cuts I want to make in the metal before I do that so you can see I've made some modifications to this case in the past so there's a hole here for running fan cables from these 292 Mills and the two 120 is that go in the top but I'll probably want to widen that and then what I'll also probably do normally I used to I've always run the 8 pin under the motherboard here and then up the top here because the tj7 use is larger than normal standoffs but I think what I'm going to do this time is I'm actually going to widen this cut that I was using here for the Seder cables all the way along the back it'll lose a little bit of strength but I think I'm willing - willing to make that sacrifice here so I'm going to widen that and then run the 8-pin up the back and make some cuts here for a CPU cut out this is an older TJ of seven so it doesn't have some of the features that the newer ones have cut here for an eight pin cut here to run the 24 pin and I'll figure out if there's anything else that I need to do I still got to figure out how I want to lay out my eight drives because those are a bit of a bear in terms of placement just because they take up a fair bit of space now there are some challenges that I have here because all of you guys are going to be able to see this but there's some come on focus there you go there's some Nick's in the metal here some pieces are even worse check out this one see it's full of little pock marks and that was something to do with the stripping process so not only that but it completely ate the threads out of this piece and then there's one other piece that's having a bit of trouble with the threads I was able to put the case back together though it just means that oh and these threads are still intact which is really fortunate because I did not want to try to rebuild those in any way you can see here I'm using some masking tape to dry fit the t-virus res without scratching it I won't be using that when I do the final build routing the water cooling is I think I've pretty much figured out how I want to do it I hate having tubing cross I don't think tubing should cross in a clean system so what I'm probably going to do is I'm going to use a ninety degree fitting here this guy is going to be more in the front of the case so closer to closer to over here like right up at the front so what that means is you're not going to be able to see that one then I want to do a hole I'll drill a hole through this base plate here as well as through the usb3 front panel thing that I'm going to put right here in order to get that one down then I'm going to have this come out it'll cross the t-virus which I don't like but I'll have to live with that it'll go to the Apogee HD Gold down to here this will go to the res and the res will go down to the pump which is going to sit down here in the basement there's going to be a lot more room in the bay but now with without the cabling tidied up a lot down there hold on let me just sorry guys I apologize for the Bourne series like shakey cam that's going on here so this could be a fair bit of space down here just because I'm going to have everything routed really cleanly so then this will come out it's going to be pretty tight because it has to go down to that bottom that bottom tube are the bottom fitting in order to make sure that the bubbles bleed more easily then out here which will go up to right here up to the second radiator so the eye would be easier for me if this radiator could be turned the other way but once again for ease of bleeding I want to have the fittings on the top so that the air bubbles don't get caught in it as much really don't like the look of being able to see the power supply here what I may do is remove the sticker just so that it's a little bit cleaner looking I'm going to try to have as few fittings as I can up here at the top because as you can sell tell I actually didn't terminate the ends on the power supply itself as cleanly as I did the ends that are going to go to the components sort of forgetting that I'm going to be able to see it you guys feel free to post in the comments let me know what you think of this tubing placement right here I will be using my blue tubing but basically these are going to run around here then come out a little bit and then this tube is going to run from here to here with with silver compression fittings I just I just don't know about that one if I can tighten it up a little bit it might help but I'm just not sure in terms of SATA cables I've decided to I've almost decided to go away from my usual UV reactive SATA cables let me see if I can just find them they're the ones that come with Intel's high-end boards or at least used to come with Intel cyan boards anyway I can't find it but I think I'm going to go with this guy because it does match the color scheme of the board even though it's not reactive in any way it's pretty close to the blue that's on there and it'll allow me to have a really tidy run so what I'll do is I'll go straight from the state output here then I will bring it through a hole so I'll cut I'll cut maybe that hole go further I'm not really sure through a hole and then up here over and down to the optical drive now this right now is screwed into some holes in the motherboard tray that happened to be threaded correctly but what I'll probably do is move it over just a touch and drill some new holes because it doesn't look like this is going to quite fit I may also get a different optical drive I haven't decided what to do about that I'm either going to powder coat this or I'm going to get a different optical drives that it'll be flash here it won't be visible this is an older one it's an HD DVD blu-ray combo drive so that's why it's so long too many lasers inside still haven't decided what to do about the outside of the case that finishes damage to the point where I don't want to just leave it but I'm not really sure if I want to paint it anymore either I may send it in to be powder-coated with the rest of the internal parts but I think the whole machine is going to look really plain if I do that so I'm still very much waffling about that overall nothing insurmountable the t-virus looks amazing here I'll show you guys that is going to be a heck of a centerpiece for this build on you can't really see it so bright in here hold on let me turn off some light that's helping a little bit can kind of see what its gonna look like well sorry guys let me just honor I can't really take that down there that's okay you can kind of see what it's going to look like so that's gonna look slick I'm just gonna go with clear distilled plain water for the liquid I'm not going to do any kind of coloration just because I don't want to deal with the gunk that inevitably builds up I mean I've got quite the dye collection let me tell you I have used a lot of dyes in my day and there's no there's no winners where dyes are involved there they are this is my favorite dye though this is some awesome fluorescent green stuff that aqua tuning' way back in the day yeah I got some moldy tech dye this stuff was horrible it's not some fessor dye stuffs alright but eventually which color was it and I can't remember there's one color that had that gunked-up I'm sure they've changed the formulas instead it's been a long time since I'd since I've used any of that stuff oh there's my little triple rat but I used to be using in the bottle in my case now I'm using the quadruple so I think that pretty much does it for my update for now I still have to I still have to go to the local glass shop where they told me they should be able to do a one-off piece of glass for me so sick of this gross I scratched up acrylic so I'm going to get something better for that I still got to send a wave whatever parts I decide to send away like this this is going to be a bit of a challenge because this is supposed to screw on to this piece here but because all the threads are dead what I might end up doing is riveting it on and then sending the whole thing to be powder coated as one piece so I still have a lot of prep to do before I can before I can go any further so thank you for checking out this personal rig update video and don't forget to subscribe to Linus tech tips for more unboxings reviews and other computer