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a data XP gv2 memory kits are optimized for the latest Intel gaming platforms check the link in the video description for more details welcome to the ultimate video card waterblock installation guide right here we have an Asus GeForce GTX Titan and step 1 guys is for the love of whatever you believe in please test the card before installing a water block on it because it's an awful lot of work to take it apart put it back together take it apart and then put it back together when you find out it doesn't work after you've put a water block on it make sure you're working at a safe anti-static workstation in our case we're using a mod mat from mod right next lay out everything you're going to need two tools in this case a Phillips head screwdriver next is hardware so in this case our graphics card as well as all the pieces that were included with our water block itself a little bit for screws it's a disaster if you lose those isopropyl alcohol as well as something to clean thermal compound off with and last but not least guys instructions I don't care who you are if you're not reading the instructions for a water block you're doing it wrong it's very important because sometimes there will even be last-minute revision notices posted on the instructions step 4 remove the stock heatsink before you start I recommend taking pictures so that if you have to put it back together you're going to have a point of reference to use later on as you remove screws put them somewhere safe this is incredibly important because whether you're selling your graphics card down the road or whether you have to send it in for a warranty repair you may need to be able to put that stock cooler back on always be sure that you've removed all the screws before attempting to take the heatsink off sometimes there can be one left that you didn't spot before or one that's a little bit tricky to find such as the one that holds the card onto the i/o panel right here another couple of spots where you might find tricky screws are here those are pretty tight remove those with a different screwdriver and then I've sometimes found ones at the back of the card that need to be removed as well but that's not the case with the tighten these two do need to go though one thing to watch out for as you're removing screws is not all the screws in the graphics card are the same so either with pictures or by labeling them as you go make sure you keep track of what goes where remember it could be two to three years by the time you have to reassemble this thing so once all the screws are removed pull the PCB away from the heatsink with a twisting motion rather than with a pulling motion to ensure that you don't pull any Ram modules off of the PCB as you go there we go carefully remove any fan headers or LED light headers without damaging the connectors take all of the thermal pads that are still attached to the card and put them back on the cooler this helps you keep them safe and in the right place during storage next put the card aside for now and put all of the screws back exactly where they went into the stock cooler step six is the same as one of the other steps please for the love of everything RTM read the manual this particular water block comes with two different thicknesses of thermal pads read the manual and you will know why don't read the manual and you could end up frying your GPU that serious guys step 7 is to clean the existing paste off of the GPU core I usually use toilet paper for the first round as well as 99% isopropyl alcohol flip it over for a clean side and take another run at it then as a last finishing touch once you've dried all the alcohol off of it it's never a bad idea to take a lint-free cloth in this case I'm just going to use my sleeve because I don't have one handy and ensure that there are no toilet paper bits left on the GPU itself that can affect cooling it's also never a bad idea particularly for some configurations where you're going to be using small heat sinks on the RAM or vrm components to do a quick pass of those ones because there might be a little bit of oily residue left on them that would cause additional thermal adhesives that you put on afterwards to not stick correctly now because we read the manual we know to use the point 7 thick thermal pads instead of the one thickness thermal pads because this one is for most cases but because of manufacturing tolerance issues with some GPUs you might need to add a slightly thicker thermal pad for you know these memory modules or these ones where this one doesn't quite make contact but if you use this one in the first place it could hold the block so far away from the card that the GPU itself doesn't get adequately cooled now what we'll need to do is cut to size so you can either measure this or hold it up against the right spot or just kind of eyeball it thermal pad strips remove the backing from both sides this is very important because if you don't do that then your parts will overheat so there's one piece and a second piece there we go then apply these to all of the parts indicated by the instruction manual in this case it comes on a separate piece of paper that indicates exactly where all the thermal pads go once you've cut them to size in the case of this water block we need thermal pads not only on the CPU block itself but also on the aluminum that plate aluminum aluminum aluminum as they say in some territories not in Canada that's not even a Canadian accent which really begs the question why did I say it at all neck apply new thermal compound to the GPU itself you can use the included thermal compound in this case we will be but you can get better quality aftermarket thermal compounds a lot of the time than the stuff that tends to get included with these blocks my personal favorite thermal compound is icy Diamond uses like diamonds and stuff for GPUs I do tend to use a little bit of a different methodology than for CPUs I tend to spread out the compound a bit more because they tend to be a bit larger and I tend to put on a little bit more this is a non conductive thermal goop so I'm not too worried about it getting sort of over the edges here and causing a short for this next part I recommend taking the water block and putting it on something that is raised a little bit above the surface of your work area it's important to give room for the rear i/o to overhang the surface that you're working on line up the block carefully with the mounting holes in the back of the card see this you can just visually check as you put it down then once you have everything aligned it's going to poke my head in here to make sure I've got it there we go I would press it down then you're actually going to remove it this allows you to check on the thermal pads to make sure that everything was making adequate contact and Allah gives you a pretty good look at the spread of the GPU thermal paste this looks alright by the time we crank this down tight that should be spread out just fine so we're going to put that back on and we're ready to tighten her down the aluminum backplate goes on before we put on the screws because many of them actually go through it there we are and this particular block comes with optional plastic washers to keep the screw heads from scratching the top of the aluminium backplate however I'm not too worried about that and I would rather the clean look of the screws directly through the backplate to having those plastic washers in everything goes in lightly to start very very lightly to start we don't start cranking things tight till all the screws are in I recommend starting with the GPU screws themselves in a cross pattern before moving on to the ones all over the rest of the card now that everything is in loosely we're ready to start tightening things down you don't want to wrench it super tight remember that's a fragile graphics card under there but you also want to make sure that everything's making good contact with the thermal interface material on both the aluminum backplate and on the GPU water block itself this next part is totally personal preference guys but you're going to have to get some fittings for your GPU block most of them well pretty much all of them these days use G 1/4 threads which means as long as you get G 1/4 fittings you should be good to go in our case we're using some coolants 3/8 inch ID 5/8 inch OD compression fittings and these you have the option of either installing on the top of the card so here or you can take out the plugs on the bottom and install them here you don't want to put them both fittings on one side because then it'll go right through without cooling anything but as long as you put one either here or here and the other either here or here the water will pass through the card so this gives you a lot of flexibility in terms of how you connect the tubing to your graphics card so there you have it guys now you've installed the water block on your graphics card this yields better temperatures and it can with GPU boost 2.0 yield better performance as well as a different overall look in terms of the aesthetics of the card now whether you prefer the stock cooler on something like a GTX Titan or the waterblock look is totally up to the individual but I personally don't find that there's much that sexier than a couple of graphics cards or even more than that water-cooled next to each other in an sli or crossfire configuration thanks for checking out our ultimate video card waterblock installation guide as always guys like the video leave a comment under the video letting us know what you think and don't forget to subscribe you