Gadgetory

okay secret's out we know that the vast majority of the people watching our build guides are not at home surrounded by piles of new computer parts screwdriver in hand following along step by step assembling the exact machine that we're building on screen know most of you are just here for well Hardware porn and that's okay it's nothing to be ashamed of and today is all about giving the people what they want a workstation slash gaming build so high-end that few people will ever have a genuine use for it let alone enough spare cash to justify buying it this is the drink spitter I mean thread Ripper all right you guys know the drill just kidding we won't need one of those but what we will need is a clean workstation an ESD strap a screwdriver a magnetic parts tray a pair of side cutters and I like to have a pair of pliers on hand just in case you got a you know tighten your nuts I also recommend testing the system on top of the motherboard box to make sure that it works before you begin the final assembly all AMD thread Ripper CPUs have a lot in common tons of cash up to 40 Meg's and 64 PCI Express Lanes so it mostly came down to picking how many cores we wanted well we wanted all of them so we chose the 1950 x16 pour 32 thread processor now I could lie and say I'm gonna use it to livestream myself playing games while encoding 4k video in the background but we all know it's just for Facebook and streaming web video on the subject of which let's insert the processor now normally I just copy-paste these instructions from another build guide using a similar socket but this time our big new chip has a big new socket AMD's tr4 and it's a little different to start we'll use the fancy thread Ripper branded size 20 torques a screwdriver that actually comes in the CPU box loosen the screws labeled 3 2 1 in that order until the load plate lifts itself up next lift the rail frame by gently pulling on these blue handles and then slide out the external cat sled we're going to replace it with our thread Ripper CPU and its carrier frame carefully slide the carrier frame into the rail frame making sure it slides all the way to the end of the rails and remove the pnp cap that's been protecting the sockets 4090 four pins now gently close the carrier frame so that the CPU makes contact with the pins pushing down on the blue handles to fix the carrier frame in place then close the load plate and fasten screws one two and three in that order with a recommended torque value of twelve pounds per inch of force finally take a moment to bask in the glory of the cow tipper the thread Ripper AMD's thread Ripper CPU support up to one terabyte of wait a minute actually yes one terabyte of RAM if you populate all eight DIMM slots with 128 gig lr or load reduced dims those aren't even out yet they'll be super expensive and would be total overkill so we're using 8 16 gig sticks of trident zr gb ram from tea skill because you know we didn't want to be overkill and 128 gigs seemed pretty reasonable obviously though you could go with 64 or 3 to save a buck to install your dims pull back the tabs on the memory slots align each module according to the key in the socket and press firmly on both sides until the latch closes if you're using just four sticks then use the lighter grey slots for other configurations refer to your motherboards user guide you'll probably notice that there's one more slightly different looking slot that's been left unoccupied leave this one alone for now but get excited because we will be coming back to it later we're basically using the pant splitter I mean thread Ripper of cases it's cooler masters latest addition to their hallowed Cosmo series the C 700p it's got many of the characteristics that these cases have become known for like the suicide doors and the aluminum skids to make hauling its forty-nine pound heft around just a little easier and it is 2017 after all it's got integrated RGB lighting and a curved tempered glass side panel now as cool as these doors are we start by taking them off simply open them and while gripping near the hinge pull upward stash the panel's particularly the glass one back in the box they came from this is also a good time to give ourselves more room to work by taking out these screws and sliding the internal panels free we're going to replace the cases included fans with cooler master master fan Pro 140s placing three in the front for intake and one for exhaust at the back remove the cases front covers by tilting and then pulling up on layer one and then simply pushing out layer two then it's just a matter of screwing the fans on to the 140 millimeter rails with the fan Li it's pointing towards the motherboard tray next pull to remove the cases magnetic rear fairing so you can access the fan screws here and mount your new RGB fan with this towards the back next check this out one of these SSD sleds is actually an integrated fan hub in disguise and this is where all of our fan leads will go as for the RGB leads we'll connect those to the RGB hub that came with the fans it's magnetic so we can just stick at any old place and leave the internal USB connector dangling for now our motherboard choice the asus rog zenith extreme is full of badass features like 802.11 ad Wi-Fi and their live - oled screen for measuring vitals it also has what's called dim dot - a riser that adds space for two more MDOT two slots and a 10 gigabit PCI Express network card which is actually a pretty good value if you wanted one anyway if you don't care about that stuff you can still totally follow this guide and save about $200 with the Asus prime X 399 a so our i/o shield is pre attached that's cool meaning that we can jump right to installing the standoffs that came with the case in all of the points labeled a for e-atx set the board in place over the middle standoff post then use these screws to fasten the board to the rest you can plug in the two eight pin CPU power connectors now to do your future self assaulted and since we still have easy access to the motherboard will also show you guys how to plug in the rest of the annoying tiny things the front panel connectors for the power LED hard drive LED reset switch and power switch the fancy front USB 3.1 gen2 connector here and the USB 3.1 gen2 'srgb and system audio along the bottom so to keep our rig chilling out Mac relaxin all cool we're gonna be using the cooler master master liquid 240 all-in-one liquid cooler high-end cooling is basically a requirement if you are overclocking thread Ripper this one comes with a lot of hardware for all the different sockets it supports but we'll be using the socket TR for mount which at the time of filming is sold separately and available only from qu a masters website now normally this is the part of a build where I freak out and realize that I've installed my motherboard without first mounting the cooler bracket on the back but today I don't have to worry about that because the tr4 socket is sturdy AF and the pump actually mounts directly to it like a little baby monkey start by fastening your fans we're using RGB ones to match the rest of the case with the stickers against the radiator using these long screws letting the fan leads hang towards the motherboard tray next mount the radiator to the top of the case by popping off the cases dust filter and fastening the rad to the mounting rails using these eight screws connect the fan headers to the included Y adapter and plug the other end into the CPU fan header here will connect the RGB leads to the included hub like we did earlier but right now we've actually got a problem we have to RGB hubs each requiring a USB 2.0 header and our motherboard only has one such header you know what that say you guys I'm done if I can't have all my RGB working I'm leaving just have dinner sent to my trailer oh okay so apparently this is a pretty simple problem to solve what's 25 bucks for one of these internal USB hubs on a seven thousand dollar build so we're gonna mount it here connect up all the USB cables then wire up its molex power cable now it's time to mount the block to the CPU we'll start by peeling off this one label and placing two rice grain size dabs of the included thermal compound on the center of the CPU now arrange the 2tr four mounting brackets like this and start tightening them down if you think it looks weird that the cooler doesn't cover the entire chip don't worry on thread Ripper the CPU dies the parts that actually produce heat are in the center anyway so all that's left is plugging in the pump header way down here and then using this handy extension cable to route it behind the motherboard tray using a power supply calculator might suggest that a 600 watt PSU would be sufficient so naturally we went with a power supply that coolermaster says will be completely silent up to 600 watts and is capable of double that with efficiency in excess of 80 plus titanium now we're not here to mislead you the master watt make her 1200 mij with it's all made in Japan components and 10-year warranty not to mention thousand dollar price tag was a because we can move and the V 750 at a tenth of the price will do you just fine for this build just make sure that whatever power supply you go with you grab something with two eight pin EPS connectors thread Ripper can run with a single connector but you'll be losing the ability to overclock and risking instability as well as issues with higher end memory start by connecting all the cables to the power supply while it's still accessible you'll need the 24 pin connector to power the motherboard to 6 plus 2 pin PCI Express connectors for the graphics card to SATA chains 1 molex cable and the 2 8 pin CPU cables that you managed earlier unfortunately the cables that came with this power supply aren't sleeved and cable mod doesn't make a kit for it but they do make cable extenders so we'll connect these to the ends of our cables hiding the excess slack in the basement next gently flex the power supply cover so you can finagle it onto little pedestal in the basement or you could just take off these four screws and not be lazy place it fan side down install the four screws in the back like so then wipe it tear from your eye when you realize that no one's ever gonna see your ball air power supply now we could put normal storage in here a single M thought to drive would be blazing fast on its own but before the end of this year AMD is planning to release a driver update that will enable bootable and DME raid on X 399 so how could we not be a f-word future-proof with a few of Corsairs high-speed MP 500 SSDs we begin by removing the m2 heat spreader by unscrewing these three fasteners being careful not to slip and scratch this nice plate here next we'll grab the small baggie from the motherboard box that contains the m-dot to stand off and cap and install the standoff in the nut that matches the length of our m dot to drive this one happens to be an 80 millimeter stick so we're using the nut marked 20 to 80 all that's left then is to insert the SSD at an angle press it down fasten it on the opposite end and replace the fancy heat spreader and you're done where are you we're gonna use that same mounting procedure as before except this time instead of going directly on the board our two additional SSDs will go on this nifty little add-in card one on each side we then slot the card into our last remaining dim slot such that this little gap hops over the dim got to signpost press firmly until the open tab closes itself they Walla over a terabyte of wicked fast storage now you might wonder at this point why our build doesn't contain a hard drive we clearly have the budget for it and that last bit is exactly why we figure anyone spending this kind of money on their workstation especially one with 10 gig networking should probably just have a separate storage box elsewhere on their network for our graphics card we considered a Quadro but from our recent findings they're not actually better in many applications than consumer cards so if your use case specifically benefits from Quadro go with that but we chose the GTX 1080 TI amp extreme edition from ZOTAC remove these three PCI slot covers two of them are for the graphics card and one is actually for our 10 gigabit network card remove the protective cover from the card edge and align the card carefully with the motherboards PCIe slot and the openings at the back of the case push the card in firmly until the slot tab snaps shut then put the K screws back in finally plug in the 2 8 pin PCI Express power connectors that we attached to the power supply earlier now this technically isn't a graphics card but you can throw your network card in at this point to this slots a good choice but thanks to thread rippers 64 PCI Express Lanes you really don't have to think about it too much just throw it in there and put the screw in our case is deep covered basement and the wide gap between the motherboard tray and the door make cable management a piece of cake especially if you're not the perfectionist type since most of the mess not including our RGB hub Spaghetti Monster will be hidden behind the internal panels that we removed earlier so once we replace all the doors she ain't looking too shabby for peripherals were using cooler masters master keys Pro L RGB keyboard their master mouse Pro L mouse and a swift rx XL mouse pad now let's put it all together now I promise we're getting to the sizzle real soon but first a couple quick tweaks and the BIOS we're gonna configure our RAM by going to the extreme Tweaker tab and changing the AI overclocked tuner from auto to do CP then we're going to do a basic overclock using the EZ tuning wizard in our case we got an easy 8% performance boost now this is also a good time to configure your MDOT to raid unfortunately we can't show you this now because the feature won't be supported for a couple more weeks meaning that we save and we're done now we've covered installing your operating system pretty thoroughly on the past so just check out this guide on the forum that we'll have linked below as for drivers your motherboard actually comes with a flash drive with the latest ones for our audio your network card your chipset etc meaning you just got to go over to Nvidia comm and get the latest for your graphics card leaving us with nothing left to do but admire our creation is it a great value well in its current state it's the most expensive build we've ever done but with some tweaks that wouldn't affect performance noticeably for most people compared to what you'd have spent for a 16 core bed spinning thread ripping PC even a year ago it actually ends up looking pretty compelling so long live competition in the CPU industry and long live coolermaster for sponsoring this build guide time for the sexy gland now