first there's the rattling then the
squealing and then there's the
embarrassment about your poor
performance these are all symptoms of
driving my car just kidding
sort of but they are also symptoms of a
broken GPU cooler and we're going to
show you guys the red-green way to fix
it
HP's new omen X lineup comes equipped
with Intel's seventh generation Core i7
processor check it out at the link in
the video description will be attempting
to fix broken fans on both a rear
exhaust blower style GPU and an open
cooler style GPU with our samples being
this GTX Titan X and this Asus GTX 1070
both of them are actually working just
fine by the way
they was just in the wrong place at the
wrong time
if you've ever tried to do something
like this you've probably noticed that
replacement parts for video card coolers
pretty much aren't a thing even for
extremely common ones like invidious
reference heatsink so we're gonna take a
basic off-the-shelf reasonably high
static pressure fan and examine how
close we can get to the original ones
performance but first a disclaimer doing
basically anything we're about to show
you will void the warranty of your GPU
to pull out one of these you're
basically done this guide is really
intended for the graphics card that a
couple years old now but is still
performing well enough that you don't
want to upgrade yet if you still have an
active warranty get the manufacturer to
fix it for you instead okay then so with
that out of the way the exact tools that
you'll need for this job depend a little
bit on what kind of GPU have some of
them can be fully disassembled with just
a small Phillips head screwdriver while
others will require a full eye fix-it
kit or similar we also recommend though
having a magnetic parts tray awesome
thermal compound some compressed air
a couple zip ties yes this will be one
of those kinds of guides as well as I
don't know maybe some duct tape fan
speed controller and some hot glue yeah
it's definitely one of those kinds of
guides let's start by getting some
initial readings first we want to know
just how much of a difference
it actually makes when you're deep you
fans stop spinning so this need to taper
up like that and then the real show
begins and in a huge surprise to no one
with no airflow the performance of these
cards
absolutely tanked the tight necks went
from a silky-smooth 135 to a cinematic
about 25 and at a core clock of 400
megahertz is basically unusable while
the non-reference designed 1070 did fare
a little better
even in our torture scenario of
simulating the death of all three fans
at once it throttled to 1 gigahertz and
about 90 FPS after a half an hour a
testament to both the efficiency of
Pascal and the clear value of this
larger heatsink though with that said
it's obviously still unacceptable
performance so it's time to fix it up
start by removing the shroud generally
speaking a policy of you know remove any
screws that look related and take lots
of pictures while you go is a pretty
safe bet here from here you'll need to
unplug any lighting and power leads
remove the fans with a bit more
unscrewing so we just got 5 screws there
each then there's some tape more tape
than I thought and boom you got yourself
a bear heatsink we're gonna secure our
new fans with some zip ties
that's right making sure of course to
use decent ones so that they don't melt
under a high load or get brittle and
break over time I think this'll work a
lot better than stock this really wasn't
quite what I had in mind for this one
next we need to power our fans looks
pretty good hey normally the easiest way
is to run the cables to your motherboard
or to a fan controller Boop just like
that
now you could reuse the original fan
header on your graphics card which would
allow you software control in your GPU
overclocking dashboard but it should be
noted that some GPU fans are very very
power efficient and the header might not
be designed for something a little more
power hungry so there is a chance that
you could draw too much from it
as for the tight necks we've actually
thoroughly covered the pain-in-the-butt
disassembly process for this guy here so
we won't go into too much detail now but
what we didn't show last time was how to
remove the screws holding the fan in and
extract the fan with a little bit of
muscle and some help from a heat gun
okay then
now that the fan is out you can put the
shroud back together and then attach the
fans using the same technique that we
did last time one thing that I would
suggest kind of adding to the technique
from the previous card though is some
means of sealing around your fan so
you've got a couple different options
for that hot glue would be one maybe
some kind of a double sided like a foam
tape but we're gonna go with good
old-fashioned duct tape
okay not bad hey the results ended up
being a bit of a mixed bag so the Asus
1070 actually exceeded even my fairly
optimistic expectations we ended up
boosting to two thousand thirty eight
megahertz giving us an extra five frames
per second in crisis versus the original
three fans and we reached a maximum of
58 degrees Celsius so honestly
especially considering that we didn't
even have to take off and replace
thermal compound to do this I can't
think of a good reason not to do this to
any GPU that you can easily take the
shroud off this frickin rocks as for our
other card that one was a little
disappointing especially given that this
is a mod that I have personally
performed in the past we ended up
reaching a maximum of 91 degrees Celsius
and only about 600 megahertz on the GPU
to be clear that's better than no
airflow at all but if you're running a
very high power GPU you are either going
to have to get a little bit more
creative about your cooling perhaps
removing the shroud altogether and you
know attaching the fan directly to the
fins would help or using a much much
more powerful fan or you are just going
to have to take it on the chin and order
a full cooler off of ebay if you know I
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