Arctic Panther Custom Build Log - Full PSU Sleeving
Arctic Panther Custom Build Log - Full PSU Sleeving
2015-07-05
excellent
a week ago I decided to finally tackle
the power supply sleeping job for the
arctic panther it was the main thing
holding me back on the project and I
figured I would spend maybe an afternoon
getting the hang of it and then maybe
finished the next day right now I don't
necessarily have a lot of power supply
sleeping experience so I'm not going to
say here's how to do this in this video
but I will talk through some of the
steps as well as explain how I worked
around some of the problems I
encountered I'm using all of the
existing wires from the fractal Newton
art 3,000 watt power supply this
includes four non modular connectors the
24 pin and eight pin for the motherboard
and two 8 pin PCI Express graphics
connectors I've also got two more
modular 8 10 peg connectors three
modular peripheral cables and the pup
wires to worry about that makes 81 total
wires to sleeve and over 100 pins to
first extract and then eventually
replace so the benefit of sleeping the
existing PSU cables is if all goes well
I don't have to crimp any pins onto the
cables which can be a pain in the butt
just check out Kyle's video on doing a
cable extension the drawback is you have
to deepen all of the connectors first
this did simplify my equipment list
initially though so all I needed from
mainframe Kustoms was the proper amount
of sleeping to cover all my wires plus
about 20 percent just in case a good
amount of heat shrink some cable snips
and the invaluable ATX PIN extractor
since I was learning as well I decided
to start small with a modular PCI
Express graphics cable and since there's
not a universal standard for modular
power supplies I of course began by
making a diagram of all the wires and
where their pin locations were on both
ends you should be doing this for every
cable that you might be sleeping what
I'm going to start off with right now
though is doing another one of these
another peg connector 8 pin just like
the one I did up there it has the unique
situation where it's got a double peg
connector on the end and I'm actually
snipping one of them off because I don't
want both of them on there so these are
the 80 expert extractors
and I'm just gonna show you how these
work real quick if you're looking at the
actual plug you can see the pins inside
each little pin connector so you just
line up the prongs on the extractor
you're going to go like side to side or
one on each side if you're looking at
the plug from side to side like this
with the latch on top you just got to
slide it down into the little space
between the plug and the pin and
sometimes it takes a little finagling
there we go it'll push down in like that
now you want to double check and make
sure that the prongs are actually
outside each side of the pin that'll be
a pretty tight fit in there once you get
it pushed down all the way you should be
able to extract the pin however it's
still pretty tough to do so get a good
grasp on it or if you really need to use
some pliers down at the base right here
just don't squeeze too hard because you
might crush the actual cable and should
be able to wiggle and pull it out it's
not coming
just give it a harder tug and it should
come out and so should depend extractor
so after getting all the pins out these
cables can just be separated one at a
time and then I can sleeve them before
putting the cable back together my
pattern for the eight pins calls for
four black cables and four white cables
I started off measuring the sleeving for
each cable by hand but later I used a
tip from Mike aka Lou TRO and made a
fixed ruler board so I could measure
quickly and accurately which I
definitely recommend just don't stretch
this leaving much while you're measuring
it each piece should be cut to line up
at a very specific spot between the
wings that grip the wire and the two
that stick up closer to the end of the
pin remembering that these are up will
help later on too so keep that in mind
but when you step the ends of the
sleeving here go ahead and just put the
edge of your flame up against them for
just a second feather them down and that
will help things from fraying put that
done go ahead and feed in the end of the
cable like so just keep pushing it until
you can't push it any further in
eventually you're going to need to bring
up fines where the actual cable is and
start to do this push it through grab it
let go
push it through grabbed it and on and on
down the line we go alright so now the
end is out here check the other end and
see how close we are so this is this is
pretty good when I stretch this out the
sleeving along the cord here it's going
to push this end down all the further so
that should be where it needs to be it's
probably going to push down to the end
here even a bit further so that should
be fine okay so here's the deal with
securing this end on basically we're
going to put the heat shrink over the
this leaving we're going to shrink the
heat shrink down while also melting thus
leaving the heat shrink is going to
compress the sleeping right here and
create a bond with this to tip with this
specific point on the plug this plugs a
little bit fatter right here because
it's one of the ones I had two wires
going into it originally but that's okay
we're going to use that to our advantage
we're going to go right around it we're
going to push up to in between that and
these upward set of prongs right here
there's so there's like wings on the
outside we're not looking at those we're
looking at these upward set we want to
be able to sit in between there we don't
want to touch them and but we want to be
over enough so that if we can actually
grab on to this little bump right there
for that so let's give this a shot here
leave that on we're going to put our
little piece of heat shrink over it I'll
let the heat shrink creep out just a
little bit over the end we're going to
let our lighter we're going to bring it
down here and we're going to warm this
up try not to burn our hands and we're
going to it's going to take six seven
eight seconds to shrink down on there
get nice and hot
and that should be good there now we're
going to give it a quick little pat here
just really quick it's hot but not
terribly hot also going to get some in
our hands is something to be concerned
about when we're doing the whites
leaving because you don't want to mess
up the lights leaving but uh that's done
on there give it just a couple seconds
to cool a bit but then sniff up the side
here this is my clue trail Lanen burgers
at least that's where I learn this pull
that off the heat shrink came off
entirely and all we have left here is
the melted plastic from the actual
sleeving
which is now kind of shrank down there
and gripped on and that will at will
hold very well that's a pretty decent
one actually I'm surprised I did an okay
job considering that I was recording but
hey luck was with me so now we need to
do the other end so from here we're just
going to kind of pull down this way
and give a little bit of pressure as we
pull and as I predicted the sleeving
pushed down and came out to about there
now that's a little bit too long so this
would be rent one reason to measure a
little bit more accurately because you
could not have to do what I'm about to
do which is clip off the end of this
leaving alright so trimmed off about
this much sleeping I didn't show you
that part because you're not supposed to
do that
you should just measure carefully when
you first when you first start out but
fortunately you're on the other end I've
managed to pull it down I can actually
still pull it down to where it gets to
about here but it snaps back pretty
dramatically because it's being
stretched pretty tightly but I'm right
about where I should be again so I
should pop on my heat shrink since I did
not do the no free thing on this I don't
want it to free on me and I got to keep
a little bit of pressure on the cable
here to keep that heat thus leaving from
from sliding back but here goes again
I will rotate a little bit this time
trying to use the blue part of the flame
I'm messing up because I'm filming at
the same time okay I probably held that
a little bit too long that time got a
little bit of smoke you don't really
want that but live tap it down a little
bit and here comes that heat shrink
again and how'd that go not terrible
could be better what you really want is
this kind of look right here where it
just melted down all around the outside
I don't have that quite completely but
now both ends of our wire sleeved and we
just got to do this eight more times
you
I have now eight of these sleeved cables
but the next step now is going to be to
plug these into the actual plug so I'll
start with this side now since these are
modular cables and not extensions I need
to pay very close attention to which
plug is going in where again that's why
I made that chart earlier and I'm going
to start off by plugging in these the
other thing to point out when you're
plugging in these plugs back into the
plugs there's two sets of wings on each
of these little connectors there's two
on the side right here and there's two
little tiny tiny ones that stick up on
the top right there which can cut you
like that slice I have in my finger
right there fortunately didn't go too
deep but these two little prongs you
want to face up with relation to the
latch on your plug so that's pretty much
all you need to know other than that you
just push straight in until it snaps
into place
and it might take a little bit of
pushing to get the sleeving part to go
into the plug again depending on how how
well I guess how well you did your job
at the end there you can see it's
starting to slide through like there and
then should make a little click when it
actually snaps into place now this was
very very silent but yeah it made a
little snapping sound and now it's in
there snugly and it shouldn't pull back
out you should need the extraction tool
to get that back out of there so all
right let's do the other seven those are
the basic steps for this process and
it's not terribly difficult to get down
after a few tries but it can be pretty
rough on your fingers and your patience
for that matter
remember how I thought I would finish in
a couple days I was wrong dead wrong
so I was feeling pretty good after I
finished a couple of the modular cables
I even set up a three SATA connector
inline custom job for my drive cage that
will look good from the front I promise
but then I ran into troubles that you
might have caught in my sleeping snack
in this video from last weekend I broke
an ATX pin I didn't have all the tools I
needed and I also discovered that
soldering would be required thanks to
some of the pins of the 24 pin connector
actually having two wires leading into
them which would just look awful if you
tried to sleeve both of them I was a
little discouraged but I pressed on I
got the crimper I needed from Kyle and I
picked up some solder and I moved on to
draining my loop so I could get at those
pump cables I also finally pulled the
whole power supply out of the case my
plan was to leave all the cables back
into the power supply housing which
probably meant I needed to expand the
hole something I'm usually pretty good
at so I did my power supply sleeving
snafus video but I didn't mention this
one I hadn't gotten this far along
coming directly from this power supply
we have some thicker gauge cables that
split out into two or three other cables
this happens a good no.23 inches outside
of where the power supply the hole exit
hole is so
like I can't sleeve these down this
direction I would need to get thicker
sleeving to sleeve over all them once
which I don't have
but the and I can't really sleep from
the other end either because I'm not
going to desolder the stuff inside the
power supply I'm not I'm not that good
so here's my solution for the first bit
coming out of the power supply until it
goes back behind the motherboard tray
I'm going to be using this so some other
sleeving that's the cable organizer com
don't worry about them and they've taken
this sleeving which is actually tech
flex PT expandable sleeping now this
generally isn't as good for sleeping a
power supply because it's not nearly as
like thick I'm sorry it's not nearly as
densely woven but the reason hopefully
I'm going to get away with it is because
I'm going to be painting all the cables
black I'll probably I might double up on
this too then I'm going to bring that
out part way until a point where it will
be a behind the motherboard tray and
everything else I'll sleeve up to that
point so the other thing I've been doing
is pulling the caps off of these
permanently wired in power supply cables
so I've ripped them all up and I've
taped the ends serving two purposes one
is to protect the plug themselves from
the paint when I think it well so I've
labeled each one so I know when I put
them back together where each one goes
and I've done that with each and every
single one and I'm going to make sure I
stay very diligent as I continue to do
that with the power supply cable right
here after that things got a little hazy
but I do recall putting the power supply
in a paper bag to protect it well I did
my best to spray-paint the wiring I
mainly wanted to avoid hitting the PSU
internals the paint on the wires could
be terrible as it's mostly there to keep
the colors from shining through thus
leaving after the paint dried though I
used the tech flex leaving which can
expand a lot thankfully to fit all the
cables through I doubled up on it izip
tied inside the PSU and then I was able
to close the housing back up without
widening the hole which was a nice
benefit
grant from then on out I just had more
sleeving to do working on the eight pin
peg and CPU connectors and hoping that I
hadn't sprayed over the labels on my
little wire flagging system I actually
did on a few of them but I was able to
peel back the tape and shine a
flashlight through it to read them
thankfully my method was to remove a
flag sleeve that cable then plug it into
the proper pin out on the connector
before moving on to the next wire this
kept things in order I also used a black
sharpie on the wire to cover over
anywhere that the paint had chipped off
when I was finally down to the last
connector the dreaded 24 pin I fired up
my soldering iron which promptly died
because it was a really cheap one from a
Roseville tool kit after getting a new
one with fancy features like an on/off
switch and a light I again used the
Aleut ro Kustoms method to deal with the
four double wire cables I'll post a link
in the description if you want to check
out the how-to video on this basically
remove a section of sleeve from one wire
then you splice in solder in the second
wire down away from the connector where
it will be hidden by the motherboard
tray then cover it with heat shrink of
course this is the part I feel least
qualified to give instruction on so
check out Mike's video for more
information after that I was free to
sleep the last 24 wires
ok 23 wires actually there's a blank pin
on this power supply but I made a dummy
wire for the connector side just for
looks after all the connectors were back
in I was finally finished but that
wasn't all there was that final moment
of truth plugging in the power supply
tester to see if I was successful or if
there was smoke and flames and this all
was for nothing
thank God and there you have it this is
this project is finished this portion of
this project is finished this power
supply has been sleeved but let's let's
do a little finals summation summary
here am I happy with this project yes I
am very happy with this project so far
I'm particularly happy since I plugged
it in of the power supply so it still
works that I'm still like red and higher
for that would I do this again I
wouldn't do it again with this power
supply to be honest it was just the
little complexities that it threw in
there were a little bit too much to have
to deal with at least a second time I
would do this again possibly with a
different power supply a fully modular
power supply I think would be a an
easier thing to do this project with so
if you are thinking about doing this
maybe do that that or just get cable
extensions just go over to a mainframe
custom and get get your own you know
just have them do it for you save a
bunch of time that's that's easy enough
to do but yeah I mean I am happy I did
this because of the experience I gained
I got some soldering experience I got to
kind of work around some problems that I
ran into and that's always kind of
challenging and fun and ultimately I'm
happy that I have a workable finished
project product now there are obviously
some some really rough spots here like
you know some gaps in places like your
on the cable connectors and fortunately
where as at least as far as I planned
most of those won't be visible and the
finish build but I'm speaking of which
the finished build coming up very soon
though is going to be the finale of this
project the installation of the drives I
got a couple 512 gig SSDs from Samsung
as well as the intel SSD 750 I am going
to be reinstalling all of the water
cooling stuff I'm going to be pulling
out the rest of the water cooling stuff
I'm going to do still but um this was
the most major of it the most time
consuming and all the rest of that stuff
I'm really looking forward to so I'm
going to get to that ASAP stay tuned for
that video very soon thanks for watching
this one don't forget to subscribe
grab hit the like button of course we'll
see you next time on Paul's hardware
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