excellent so I've heard a lot of people
say that they want a silent computer but
a lot of the builds that I see online
are a lot more geared towards
functionality and performance than they
are how much sound the machine will
actually make when you put it together
and turn it on now I could go ahead and
say here's a bunch of parts put them all
together this will make it fairly silent
builds but I know you guys are tinkerers
out there your customizers and if you
watch my channel you probably want some
leeway to choose your own parts so with
the help of an tech I'm gonna be
building a system today in there p100
case I'm going to be focusing this video
on what steps you can take to first
identify the parts in the system that
are making noise and seconds what you
can do to eliminate that noise or at
least reduce it as much as you possibly
can so will I go ahead and get started
building my version of a silent computer
let's ask the question what components
in your computer actually make noise
first we have fans this is the number
one nose maker in your computer actually
there's several subcategories within the
fans category so we're going to come
back to that towards the end
number two is optical and hard disk
drives these have moving parts and
moving parts make noise spinning disks
and the seek click sound from the hard
drive read/write heads these days I'll
just pass on the optical drive
completely actually have a spare optical
drive that I keep around with the SATA
to USB adapter and I'll just plug that
in if I actually need to burn or read a
CD or DVD hard drives are still the best
option for mass storage so if you do get
one opt for a lower rpm version go for
5400 RPM instead of 7200 I do recommend
the WD green series because they're well
known to be quiet running hard drives
the third thing is other because I
wanted to group a few things together we
have electrical noise or coil whine that
can come from components but honestly
this is more indicative of actual faulty
hardware or at least hardware that's not
quite up to par your PC shouldn't make
electrical noise or coil whine so we'll
leave out solutions for that just see if
you can get those parts replaced also we
have the water cooling pump that is if
it's present you don't need a water
cooling pump if you go with air cooling
but if you do have one shot for a pump
that's been
well reviewed for quite operation or one
that you know you can control the speed
of I guess we could also list the
motherboard speaker here for your being
picky but I don't know unplug it disable
it it only beeps when you boot up anyway
so it should be a big deal we also have
a special bonus category these are items
that don't make noise but they can help
reduce noise the first one here is the
case cases with padded side panels can
be very helpful for reducing internal
noise and vibration case with a solid
front panel door instead of an open
space can help block noise from coming
from inside foam padding can also help
out here some cases like the P 104 man
tech here can have covers over certain
areas like on unused fan mounting
locations here again the payment on P
100 has used padding to help reduce
noise from coming out and the lastly
cases can have rubber feet that reduce
noise and vibration rubber pads for the
power supply to sit on rubber grommets
or mounts for the hard drives to sit in
all of these can help reduce noise and
vibration some cases can also have a
built-in fan controller which can help
and I guess speaking of which moving
along this special bonus category a fan
controller could be another item that
can reduce noise but not add noise
itself it controls your fans this is an
add-on though there's an extra cost
involved so we'll come back to the fan
controller again later in the video
the third item here is a motherboard
that is if the motherboard does not have
a chipset fan and these days most
motherboards don't so I recommend
getting a motherboard without a chipset
fan especially if you're building a
silent system but motherboards can have
fan headers that can provide voltage or
PWM control for fans to plug them
directly into the motherboard voltages
three pin and PWM is 4 pin and then
motherboards can also have BIOS UEFI or
software controls to reduce the speed of
the fans that are plugged into the
motherboard which is a great option let
me run down the parts that I am using
for the silent Bill's that I am building
right now we have the CPU which is an
Intel Core i7 4770k
I would recommend considering a lower
TDP CPU for a silent build that has
power savings built in especially like
the core the core series from Intel this
is going to make it easier to cool
basically the sit 4770k has an 84 watt
TDP which is not the lowest TDP CPU out
there but it
it's not the highest either the
motherboard is the Asus z87 Pro this one
of course does not have a chipset fan
and it's also got some really cool fan
expert software that I'm going to be
using to control my fans later on
there's other more that motherboards out
there that have similar features but I
do particularly like a Souza's
implementation of fan control the memory
is a couple 4 gigabyte sticks of corsair
1600 speed ddr3 not a consideration for
noise but wanted to point it out the
video card is the EVGA gtx 760 this is a
graphics card with an aftermarket cooler
and a couple fans on it so they can
dissipate more heat without having to
work as hard individually and the EVGA
ACX cooler cards are known for running
very quiet I also went with an SSD for
this build rather than a hard drive just
to reduce noise again
this is a 248 Corsair Neutron GTX if you
want silent storage then get an SSD
these last four items are all provided
by an tech so a huge thank you to them
for supporting this build and this video
the case is the Antec p 100 it has all
of the things I mentioned earlier in the
case category like foam padding and
rubber mounts doesn't have a fan
controller but that's ok because we're
going to be plugging in directly to the
motherboard the CPU cooler is the Antec
cooler h2o 950 this is the probably the
most controversial choice for this
silent build I would generally go with
an air cooler for silence and to
eliminate the possibility of having any
noise coming from the pump in a liquid
cooler the h2o 950 at high fan RPMs is
actually very powerful but also very
loud fortunately though turning the fan
speed down with the ACS utility dropped
the volume way down and the pump noise
here was pretty minimal you don't even
really notice it the power supply is the
Antec Edge 650 watt if you guys recall I
reviewed this and it has one of the
quietest fans I've ever heard outside
the premium 80 plus platinum range
lastly the fans that I've swapped out
here are going to be an Tex true quiet
120 millimeter case fans they have
rubber mounts to reduce vibration never
built in 2-way switch for 600 or 1000
rpm operation now the last and most
important topic in this video for
building a silent PC is fans I said I
was going to come back to this and if
you haven't noticed already they're all
over you have case fans you have CPU
cooler fans you have a fan on the power
supply you have fans on the graphics
card and all of these make noise
you can add fans to other things in you
a computer as well like the memory maybe
but that's much less common and why
would you do that when you're building a
silent computer anyway I would just make
more noise so your options for finding
quiet case fans let's start with that
one is you can go big in general larger
fans are going to move more air at lower
rpms and generate less noise so 120
millimeter fans should be your baseline
don't use anything smaller than that
consider 140 millimeter fans or even 200
millimeter or larger size fans if you
have a compatible case also consider the
fan motor bearing type that's very
important I would recommend avoiding
sleeve or rifle bearings double ball
bearing fans can be less expensive but
they can make a little bit more noise
than the other options fluid dynamic
bearings are the best in my opinion
because they offer the greatest balance
between noise and performance but they
do cost more finally there's magnetic
bearings that are really really quiet
but they can actually be fairly
inefficient at moving actual air so
that's why I generally recommend fluid
dynamic bearing fans if possible on your
fans opt for a 4 pin connection that
will give you PWM or pulse width
modulation control instead of the 3 pin
connections which will give you voltage
control only PWM fans can often spin at
much lower speeds than non PWM fans
which is cool also check the noise
rating when you're shopping for fans or
for a case that has fans in it most
computer fans have a noise rating listed
lower is better but not all
manufacturers use the same methods for
measuring the amount of noise generated
so check the reviews too while you're at
it finally plan your airflow and manage
your cables this can make a huge
difference in your overall system
temperature which means your fans can
stay at nice low rpms most cases use
front intakes which is where I installed
two of the true quiet 120 millimeter
fans and rear or top exhausts which is
where I installed the cooler h2o 950
radiator having more than one intake
then exhaust creates positive pressure
inside the case which helps keep dust
out and since there's ventilation at the
back there's still be room for that air
to escape for CPU cooler options take a
look at the radiator or the fin stack on
the air cooler that you are considering
if silence is your goal look for a
cooler with more spaced out fin stacks
or radiator fins less densely packed
bins will allow air to move through
more easily meaning that you can run
your fans at lower rpms you will
sacrifice some cooling performance of
course large heat sinks are also an
option they can be cumbersome but they
can be a very effective way of
dissipating more heat without adding fan
noise due to the added surface area
finally you have closed-loop liquid
cooler options like the cooler h2o 950
they offer some of the best performance
if you're going to be overclocking just
make sure you can control the fan speed
on your CL LC and if you can control the
pump speed - that's a nice bonus for the
power supply emphasize a power supply
with a quiet fan since you can't usually
change that out on PS use higher
efficiency 80 plus bronze or better
power supplies will generate less heat
at the same wattage so they'll need less
airflow some power supplies want to
actually even turn the fan on until they
go over a certain set temperature that
can be a very nice option - so look out
for that fanless power supplies are also
out there I would definitely look into
those if you're building a lower wattage
system for the graphics card like the
power supply I would emphasize buying a
graphics card with quiet fans check
reviews consider a lower power GPU as
opposed to a flagship model that has a
higher TDP and then I tend to lean
towards open GPU cooler designs instead
of blower style when it comes to noise
generation they tend to be quieter just
remember that they leave more hot air in
the case so you will need to have
ventilation so if you finally got the
silent system of your dreams built and
you boot it up for the first time and it
makes noise
sadface what do you do well you need to
tame those fans that are making the
noise with fan control so let's go over
a few methods of fan control before we
close first you can plug your fans
directly into the power supply I
normally don't recommend this at all
because it will mean the fans will run
at max rpm but for fans like antics
through quiet 120s that which have a
built-in low rpm switch it is an option
so just plug them into the power supply
just make sure you have that switch
turned to low the next option is to
control the fans via a motherboard 3 pin
or 4 pin headers this is my go-to with
most systems as long as your motherboard
has enough headers of course I prefer
the 4 pin PWM control when possible
which is usually the standard for CPU
fans with my case and CPU fans connected
to the headers and my a to z 87 Pro I
can access controls in the UEFI BIOS or
I can just run the fan expert software
from within windows to automatically
test and set up controls for each fan
then connection capacity and control
capabilities are going to vary from
motherboard to motherboard and
manufacturer to manufacturer though so
here's what it pays to do some pre build
research or you can always go out and
pick up a dedicated fan controller the
ones that come built into cases like the
fractal define are five for example are
usually pretty simple voltage control
setups with a three-way low medium high
switch but I always like a dedicated 3.5
inch or five and a quarter inch bay fan
controller that lets you manually
control each fan with a knob or buttons
these can actually get really fancy with
temperature probes and zone control for
within the case but honestly that's a
subject for another video I think one
final method for a fan that just won't
quiet down is to add a resistor
extension to the plug between the fan
and its power source that will reduce
the fans available power and thus its
rpms just make sure it still has enough
initial power to actually start rotating
when you power on your system so now
that you know the components in your
system that might be making a racket and
some techniques for how to silence them
maybe you can turn your loud and noisy
gaming machine into an epic ninja
stealth killer system but thank you so
much for watching this video guys and
thanks to Antec for providing the
components that you saw this build today
links to them are down in this video's
description you can also click my Amazon
link and bookmark that if you want to
click it before you buy stuff at Amazon
that always helps me out don't forget to
like and share and subscribe to my
channel if you are haven't already we'll
see you all in the next video
you
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.