Gadgetory

what's up guys how's it going and welcome to my monthly build for April 2019 the system I have today I'm pretty happy with actually because I was trying to find a balance I've done quite a few systems that are less than a thousand dollars recently and if you'd like to look at a system that's maybe 800 or 900 bucks look at my monthly builds videos from last month in the month before this computer is meant to be a gaming PC of course but it can do much more than that it's micro ATX so I'm keeping things in a pretty compact form factor and it only costs about 1150 dollars so here's our lovely array of parts and as you can see we've got some Coolermaster stuff for the case and power supply we've got an MSI r-tx 2070 armored gaming graphics card and that in my opinion is like if you're gonna spend a decent amount of money on a graphics card around 500 bucks or so the r-tx 2070 is really the way to go it's a really good performer these can range up to $600 but I think the $500 ones are just fine and the msi armor qualifies as one of those we have of course the horizon 7 2700 this one has been on sale for as cheap as 220 dollars I got this for 225 just recently the 2700 comes with a race fire cooler so you get a perfectly adequate and actually a decent performing for a stock cooler along with it so you don't need to worry about spending more money on that of course you can't upgrade out in the future it's going to overclock automatically to 4.1 gigahertz on a couple cores and of course you can add a better cooler if you wanted to and overclock it in the future because we're unlocked for overclocking with our b4 50m steel legend motherboard from asrock I really like the B 450 chipset from AMD because you can still overclock with it and as long as you get a board that has decent power delivery and this board does have decent power delivery then you're totally just fine even if you're getting like a pretty powerful CPU with eight cores and 16 threads like the 2700 this one only cost you about 95 to 105 dollars and it's micro ATX that's part of my goal for this whole build was to keep things more compact before I get to that though we have just a single SSD for storage in this system and that's the Intel 660 P which is actually an MDOT 2 nvme SSD this is the 2 terabyte version but I actually put the 1 terabyte version in the parts list the 2 terabyte version is a great deal of about 210 220 dollars for that about 110 dollars for the one terabyte version and I wouldn't always say hey make sure you get a faster nvme SSD for a gaming PC over a standard SATA SSD but in this case the Intel 660 P has actually been the same price per gigabytes or even a little bit less than like your one terabyte SATA SSDs like this SanDisk one the Intel 660 P uses qlc or four bits per cell NAND flash memory so it's not going to be very good for extended writes I would not recommend this drive for like a working drive for video editing or anything but if you're gonna spend about the same amount of money on this or this well then yes go ahead and get a nvme SSD 660 P is a good choice for that for a memory kid I grabbed the g.skill flare x2 by a gig kit 16 gigs so this is a 3200 speed cast latency 14 this is a really good kid of memory it's flare X which means it's actually made for rise incompatible with risin so you're guaranteed to get Samsung B dies these are a bit more expensive though so down in the video description I have actually listed different memories that will still work with Rison but if you want to make absolutely a hundred percent sure that your memory is going to work with Rison at the speeds that are listed and consider the flare x kit just look for a good deal on them if not go with the kit that I have listed in the video description rounding things out we have our case we have our power supply and we have an added fan now the case I've listed in the description as the master box Q 300 L which is $40 this is the Q 500 L which is $60 but the 500l and the 300 L are both the same exact external size so when I contact a cooler master and said hey guys this just showed up in the mail but I was actually looking for aq 300 they were like oh that's the same size do you want to just use that and I was like okay so I'm gonna be building in this but bear in mind you can get the Q 300 which is about the same size just doesn't have the compatibility with full-size ATX motherboards like this case does I'm also not a hundred percent sure what the Q 500 L ships with as far as fans I had added a master fan pro 140 to the original build two because TQ 300 L only ships with one and you want to make sure you have one for intake and one for exhaust at minimum finally our power supply is a new series of power supplies from coolermaster the MW e 650 gold this is 80 plus gold rated five-year warranty black cables cooler master has finally come out with a new series of power supplies these are also really well priced so keep an eye out for these if you're looking at like EVGA and Corsair options because these are very good as well so those are the parts I'm working with today guys I have my trusty screwdriver so let's get started all right so I've just sort of taken this case apart and given it a first look and my first impression is that I should have gone with the Q 300 l for this build because this is a full-size ATX case that's part of cooler masters revisions on this as they managed to wedge a full-size ATX system and a pretty compact form factor so good on them for doing that but I totally should have just gone with a full sized ATX motherboard for this build but again that's not my fault because I was originally planning on building the Q 300 L reader press forward and talk about the case itself now here's the i/o you've got a couple USB 3.0 and your mic and headphone jacks as well as a power button that can actually be repositioned so it's mounted to the case side right there you can take it and put it up on the top right there or you can put it on the bottom right there or you can put it on the left side right there Kulik side panel just kind of text them like that stays in place and then that's held on by some thumb screws which I will reapply in just a moment I was at side panels held on by these kind of rubber thumb screws and I believe that's meant to actually be sort of a foot as well if it's mounted there so you can set the system on its side once those are removed it just sort of opens kind of a little tab right there it'll sort of prop itself up but that easily falls off as I demonstrated just a moment ago and then behind there we can see there's actually a good amount of cable management room back here so that is good this is also where your expansion drives would go we've got a couple metal trays here just fell on my thumb screws and those could handle a single 3.5 inch drive each or two 2.5 inch drives each so for SSDs or 2.5 inch drives or 2 3.5 inch drives can fit right there for accessories we've got a manual here thumb screws for either side panel and then they've given us a baggy of screws and zip ties for mounting anything else up that might need to be mounted and then you may have noticed sort of a distinct pattern on the dust filters for this case there just tell them by magnets so they're really easy to peel off and remove so you know if you got to clean the dust out of them just pull it off clean the dust up put it back on and you get one of those on the top as well as on the front and then coolermaster has also included paul's Hardware versions of those because of course they design these cases to go out to system integrators and that kind of thing so just sort of pointing out I don't know if they're going to sell these blank ones that you can sort of screen your own printing on to or if they're going to do a custom shot for those but you can you know make it your own by adding a bit of your own personal Flair like a Paul's hardware logo so this is our eighth spire cooler which is notably better than the Wraith stealth cooler that ships with some of the lower end risin processors but we were unboxing stuff and Joe popped us cable up and I was like what's that cable for it looks like it's for the rates max which is the higher end stock cooler that ships with like an 1800 X but this actually as our DB you can sort of see there's a ring around it right there it's got a little plug there at the back to plug in this little cable for so that's kind of cool just sort of a bonus I suppose what I'm going to do though is I'm going to rotate this 90 degrees so that the AMD logo is facing up because I've actually had people complain about that in several different videos there's a couple different ways to do this but mainly there's four screws that connect it to the heatsink itself I'm going to try to get at those so I can just rotate the whole thing together because there is a cable that comes out here that's kind of connected up so there's a top piece that's a shroud here then there's a lower piece that's actually the fan hub I'm gonna try to take that all out together okay never mind plan a we're going with Plan B which is to pop the shroud off first because it's kind of blocking some of these screws just a flathead or a slot screwdriver on the outside to kind of pry it up and get it off with a little prongs that's holding it down if anyone trying to do this at home be careful because there is an inner ring here that has some tabs on it that snaps into this piece which you need to reach in there to pull off you might notice the AMD logo kind of getting a little recessed in there just all three of these pieces just only sit together when they're actually attached to the base piece but once those are loosened and up off to the side you can give it these lower screws screw those so the whole top piece comes off and then look you can see the beating heart copper slug at the middle of this whole thing and then the bottom of the fan too guys I don't know how if this has been done much with this RGB version of this cooler but if I had known it was gonna be this complicated I probably would not have bothered with this since it's an aesthetic fix I think I've got it okay without breaking anything but you might notice there's an inner ring here is the LED and then there's the outer hub and it's really really tight to get all that back in there together and then this inner ring has little tabs that need to push down into little gaps right there and it feels like there's no room for it I've got I think three of them attached now though and I'm gonna try to push this last one in famous last words I did it it's back together the only sacrifices were this plastic tab piece that I broke off and and the pre-applied thermal paste on the bottom which I messed up my recommendation though guys for anyone who wants to try this just just don't just just do it sideways alright guys the build is put together this one had its share of hiccups along the way unfortunately the Q 500 L is a decent case I would say for 60 bucks but it's not really impressing me I just feel like there's other options out there for $60 that are more reasonable that might have tempered glass or some additional features build quality wasn't really all there for me either I feel like for 40 bucks the Q 300 L makes a little bit more sense so that's where I would direct you especially if you're putting this actual system together when I'm left with now despite the sort of configuration that they went with here I have a big blank spot at the bottom of the system that's just not being used for anything power supply I could have gone there then I wouldn't have had worried about the sort of janky mounting at the power supply to the front up here screws were not lining up there very well at all which made it very difficult to mount it up there and once I got it mounted and I was trying to plug in the modular cables which were sticking a little bit it just felt like I was gonna bend the case or something when I was doing that so ended up reading it to plug in the modular cables so if you do build in this case that recommends plugging your modular cables first before you install the power supply into the case that would solve that problem and then of course there was that AMD CPU cooler attempt that I made to rotate it it did work it did come out vertical so that's nice I guess but man that was more challenging that was expected to I have more to say about this build I'm gonna follow up and do some testing on it for now that is all for this video thank you guys so much for watching we'll see you guys next time