Gadgetory

welcome everyone to my monthly build for March 2018 this is going to be a very small build actually probably the smallest full-fledged gaming PC that I've ever assembled and it's all going to be sort of structured around this case right here which comes from Poland by a company called doctors aber this is the century 2.0 second version that they've done of this it's a limited run case and this is going to cost you two hundred and thirty euros which is about two hundred and fifty US dollars but doctor zebra has put a countdown up on their website so it is coming very soon and if you can stomach that upfront cost you can put together an insanely fast computer in a really really small footprint only about seven liters of space in this so I'm going to be installing an 8700 K as well as an RT X 2070 this is going to be the smallest and most powerful system I've ever put together the enter max liquid tech to 360 almond liquid CPU cooler is now available in a special edition white finish for a clean and elegant look that highlights the addressable RGB LEDs the liquid tech to 360 can handle 500 watts of heat dissipation and features a high flow rate pump and block premium leaved tubing anti-vibration pwm fans and sexy aura belt logo and edge lighting that you can customize with the included RGB control box or motherboard software click the sponsor link in the description to learn more so the first decision you have to make building in a case is small is do you want more cpu horsepower or more graphics horsepower because the length of the graphics card is going to affect your ability to install an all-in-one liquid cooler in this case so you can go with a longer full at fuller length graphics card in which case you could fit in an RT X 20 80 or 2080 ti even but then you would not be able to fit the radiator from all in one liquid cooler so I have opted to go with a slight downgrade on the graphics card so for my graphics card I have the RT X 2070 this is the gigabyte Mini ITX Edition and it's only 170 millimeters long which means I still have room for the radiator on my liquid cooler which is the Corsair h-60 which has a little hundred and twenty millimeter all-in-one radiator however this will still be too thick with the included fan which is 25 millimeters thick so I'm going to be using this fan to cool that radiator which is a Noctua NF a 12 X 15 PWM fan so fortunately I already had that on hand that will be cooling my engineering sample core i7 8700 K so I'll have six cores and twelve threads of course another potential upgrade here could be something like a 9700 K or 99 hundred K however given that the 9900 K has a hard time being cooled by even 240 millimeter all in one liquid coolers I felt like the 8700 K was a little bit better choice for a motherboard I have the RG Strix Z 390 - I gaming from Asus this is a higher-end mini ITX motherboard that actually can perform a bit of overclocking so I will see if and they follow up testing video I can try that out and see what we can do with our 8700 k and then we've also got a kid of memory this is a HyperX predator kit ddr4 I actually had originally planned to use a corsair low profile kit for this this predator kit is not very tall and it is not RGB bling or anything like that but it is 2 by 8 gigs in 3200 speed so hopefully this will fit in there if I have any conflicts with potentially the tubing from the all-in-one liquid cooler I might need to swap this out for something more low-profile but for now I think it should work finally for SSDs I have two of these little m dot two nvme SSDs the Intel 6 Series the 660 P to be specific I have a one terabyte and a two terabyte version and I found when I was parting out this build these are actually cheaper price per gigabyte or the same price per gigabyte as 2.5 inch SATA drives so in this very small build where space is an issue even for little 2.5 inch drives having both of these m2 I think will be a great choice still get three terabytes of storage and heck if that's not enough I mean I can still fit a couple 2.5 inch drives in there so I've got some crucial 2 terabyte guys I might drop that in again we'll see how things go when it comes to space but there are my parts let's get started putting this thing together so the first few steps were motherboard preparations so we went ahead with the installation of the CPU as well as getting the back plate for the h-60 setup fortunately that's got some adhesive on it so it's gonna stay in place so we go to mount the pump lock unit it can screw down to those mounting points and that's one of the last steps in the process I will be referencing the Sentry 2.0 manual which is available online for further steps because there are some unique steps to this build process and then of course installed both of the SSDs one under the heatsink up here on the front and then one more is installed to the back and then the memory so the motherboard is good to go now doctor's neighbor actually sent me two of these cases because it's available in two colors black and then a gray which is supposed to be the same gray color that like I think military ships and planes are so it's kind of a cool light gray color I actually have no idea what color is in here it's just gonna be luck of the draw so we'll see what color I'm actually building in it looks like it might be the black so there is our case I'll set that aside for now inside we have a fair amount of foam and then they have separated out all of the accessories such as the riser card for the graphics card and then we've got some pastor cables for USB 3.0 as well as our power cable other accessories and brackets and there's a stands that you can use for vertical orientation and they've also included a screw driver which is actually a Torx screw driver because that's one of the changes they've made on this version from version 1.0 is using Torx screws and also reducing the number of different types of screws that they're using overall they used to have six different types of screws now there are three what they sent me as an engineering sample they're very close to it being the finished version since it does look now like on the website they have a countdown to when they're actually selling these but one of the final changes they're making is a update some of the o-rings in there so they sent me an extra pack of those in case I need to swap them out so this is a seven liter case which is very very slim this way which you can see it doesn't live you leave you a whole lot of vertical space for doing stuff but here is where your motherboard IO shield would be over on this side is where you would have your IO for graphics card power is going to route through to a plug right there then this is essentially the front there's a power button right here that we are going to be mounting ourselves at the bottom we have a space for some USB 3.0 ports and then they've pre attached a couple of these panels together with screws and put rubber rings behind them I'm pretty sure this is just something that they've done for shipping to make sure that if the panels are rattling around as it's being shipped we don't get any damage to the finish on the paint there and they put one on either side just to hold the side panel on another thing you might notice especially if you've looked at the original century 1.0 is that there's a lot more of insulation they've they want to make sure you can accommodate higher-end Hardware in here and since there's really no active cooling there's no space to put active fans on here except for the fans that exist on the hardware you install they wanted to have as much of that as available available as possible it also means that there are no dust filters but since this is a steel case you could potentially add some magnetic dust filters if you wanted to I believe we can now just lift off the side panel like so and here we can see an additional piece they've added this specifically to help with some of the heat dissipation from the backside of the graphics card since that is where that is going to go right here is where your motherboard would sits here is where your power supply goes which kind of shows you like that's pretty much everything another word power supply graphics card and then we're gonna be fitting a radiator right here and one last piece that's removable is this one right here which wraps around and I'm guessing by this being removable will give you greater access to this side specifically for installing radiators perhaps but I shall find that as I build and let's go with the first step which is going to be actually getting that radiator so here's our radiator mounts and I wanted to shift this further down but I think it'll be okay I have it as far left as it can go with the mounting holes that are in this sort of ventilation area here so that's where that's gonna sit hopefully there's still enough room for the power supply power button is next let's get me into this well certainly corner of the radiator I had a brief moment of panic because I thought that I wasn't getting the proper line up for mounting the radiator to this part of the side panel so I did have to position it out so we're actually in the second row of screw holes here which means it's not quite up against the side of the case fortunately though there's still enough room here so I actually installed the front panel button there power on/off button first that way I could then mount the radiator in here to make sure there was enough space this is just gonna be hanging loose until we get mostly done with this build but at this point we can do kind of a test fit drop everything in and make sure that we have enough room so that is where the power supply is going to go yes it looks like still enough room for plugging in our modular cables over there here's our teeny tiny little gigabytes RTX 2070 and that is you're gonna fit in right there and they are very rate about that hundred and seventy millimeter length requirement that is exactly how much space we have and then finally we've got the motherboard which fits in like so look at that we're done almost we have a we have a very strange mounting system going on for a fan here here's the deal this fan is I think 15 millimeters thick I did not purchase this fan as a standalone not to a sells these by themselves they're about 20 bucks each that would come with proper mounting screws I don't know the proper mounting screws for this because it was actually stolen from the NHL 12s that I already have which doesn't come with those screws so instead I'm using standard mounting screws here but I've put spacers on them so they're sticking out a lot it's really silly but you know what it's gonna hold it on its going to get the job done so I'm okay with this my other alternative would have been to actually like hack the ends off of some of these screws I just want to make sure as I'm mounting this I'm not screwing down through the radiator this is all coming together a little bit at a time I have the main power plug plugged in for the motherboard as well as the eight pins supplemental power over here got some PCI Express power coming over for the graphics card when that gets installed just trying to get everything kind of tucked down in here there's a very very narrow gap between the power supply and the motherboard that you kind of have to write a bunch of stuff through that's also where there's a decent amount of i/o including the USB 3.0 header which is like right under there so I got to plug that in there and then route the actual plugs around here to the front of the case the riser bracket for the graphics card is in three pieces so you got a vertical piece here that comes up out of the motherboard with a ninety degree angle and then you got another piece of slots into that but then these two screws here are actually holding on a bracket that goes underneath and that actually kind of grabs the PCI Express slot right there and keeps it pretty sturdy so that's where your graphics card ulm outs and I'm glad they did that a bit of reinforcement day getting these hoses to stay where they should be and also not kink when you have to do sharp angles with them is by far the most challenging part I think of this build but I think by kind of looping them this way and then back around there I can still have free liquid flow I did have to add a stupid SATA modular cable because this pump only accepts a SATA power so that kind of sucked there's a lot of work that went into this tiny little PC so I think it is not ready for the powering on for the first time plugging the power from the back I'm gonna realize that the power supply is internal but I did not turn the switch on did I oh maybe I did turn the switch on hold on if I turn the switch on oh I did turn the switch on okay so protip turn the power switch on your power supply on before you put the side panel on and everything like this otherwise you'll have to reopen the side of your case to get back in there to flip the switch on because the switch is no longer external plus side though a system is up and running we just did a little double boot for me I can see the fan spinning on the graphics card you can also just sort of see the Corsair logo on our own one liquid cooler down there as well which is hopefully getting the job done now of all the things with this build that made me the most nervous routing the tubing for the almond liquid core is definitely the most sketchy part just because there's not a lot of space to work with especially after all the cables are installed and you definitely don't want to kink the cable of an a i/o like that if you can at all possibly avoid it so that may mean there's something to be said for some of the higher-end almond liquid cores that have sleeved cabling or cabling that might be less prone to kinking so maybe keep that in mind or if you're concerned about including an LM one liquid cooler and the system is small maybe just stick with a low-profile cooler that would give you a lot more flexibility with your graphics card - but I think when it comes to cooling performance for something like in 8700 K or especially like a 9700 K or 9900 K you're definitely going to want something more than just the simple low profile cooler that you could fit and it like this I would also recommend possibly plugging in your power cable pass-through because there's a plug on the back and you got a past that true through where the power supply is maybe consider plugging that in and routing it first because you can get it further down underneath all the other cables and it is a thicker cable that would help to get out of the way and the last thing to note just when it comes to getting this system up and running and getting the side panel back on I did have to remove two of these longer screws with the standoffs that were holding in my Noctua fan to the radiator and that's simply because they were too tall and on this side of the case where there's that thicker area to help provide some heat dissipation for the backside of the graphics card it was conflicting so I had to remove those in order to get that on so right now it's only being held on by two screws and again this problem would be solved if you bought that fan by itself and it shipped with its own screws rather than stealing it from an air cooler that you already own but guys that's gonna wrap it up for this video thank you so much for watching this has been my roughly $2,000 super tiny portable mini gaming PC build in a dr. xaviar century 2.0 with an 87 out of K and the gigabyte Mini ITX r-tx 2070 thank you guys so much for watching this video hit the thumbs up button and I'll post links to these products down in the video description if you're interested we'll see you guys in the next video